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      07-11-2022, 11:01 AM   #1
Cmassey3
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Cmassey3 - Track Journal

I'm about 2 track events in, so I figured I'd go ahead and make one of these.



In 2020 I traded in my '93 MX5 for an '08 E92 M3. Definitely took advantage of the early covid market dip and got a 73k mile DCT w/EDC coupe for $19k OTD. I wanted something a little more substantial in wall-to-wall 3 row SUV traffic. Had I been a bit wiser and more forum savvy at the time, I would've done a PPI and maybe passed on this example. I knew rod bearings and TBAs would need doing but I ended up picking up the differed maintenance bill as the 6th (and probably only responsible) owner. I've got a whole thread here on how the $20k in maintenance was spent up to my current 81k miles: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1894228. Since then I've got more tools and more confidence tackling DIY jobs, but I am still a ways off from tackling rod bearings myself armed with nothing more than a coconut and sheer will like some of the great DIYers on this board.

My main reason for getting into HPDE is mostly learning proper car control and fun as a lifetime car enthusiast. The journey of being able to use this car to it's fullest is really rewarding to me. I do a bit of sim racing and often end up day dreaming on racingjunk debating on getting in spec wheel-to-wheel at some point, but I'm only just now getting into this in my late 20s. HPDE is teaching me just how much I don't know. My home track from Raleigh is VIR and the first event I ran was last October with the Tarheel BMW CCA. This club is the main reason I'm in an M3, the club seems really well structured around driver education and all my sessions have been with coaches/instructors so far.

VIR is a helluva home track and first track experience. For my first event it was recommended to run with Motul 600rbf fluid and OEM pads. In hindsight I should've just gotten PFC08s off the bat since I was pushing 140 into rollercoaster by the end of the weekend and melting my pads. They had terrible pad fade, modulation, and knockback on the 2nd event day. Fluid was fine. Had a fresh-ish set of ECS which are more than fine for the novice class.

These pictures are all from my first event on VIR Full Course last October:








It took a lot of sessions that weekend just to get somewhat comfortable on a circuit, in traffic, looking for flag stations. It was about like any first track experience with little concept of apexes, lines, pedal modulation. I definitely am in the timid driver category especially starting out on circuit with an M3.

I had prepped for this event on iRacing with my sim but it didn't help as much as I had anticipated for a few reasons;
  1. The iRacing VIR scan is from the Oak Tree days which means it was before the track was widened and before it had the now infamous green and yellow curbing. The major thing it's missing is the runoff from T3, but the racing lines are nearly 5ft inward on every corner from the new track additionally with very limited curbing
  2. There's so much going on besides focusing on a racing line and when your brain isn't used it it, most sim prep besides some vague shape of the circuit and rough braking maker areas goes out the window with all this new stimuli. The most unexpected focus breaker at first for me was the wind buffeting with the windows down.
  3. The gut fear feeling of moving the car at speed is something you hear about, but it's still something else entirely to experience.


These were the instructor comments after the event:
Car well prepared and cared for this level of driving. After another couple schools, might be time for some upgraded brake pads.
Logbook This was Camden's first school and he started off with some trepidation, but also excitement. He had done a lot of sim prep which helped to familiarize him with the track. He was very open and honest about his nervousness, self-diagnosis, and areas for improvement. He showed a good knowledge of the sport and was able to really improve over the weekend through this introspection and comparison. While he started with zero track time and only one auto-cross, he was able to get up to D-group average speeds while staying comfortable and confident, and start to turn out relatively consistent laps. Camden does well with more talking and encouragement, with that extra nudge and support, his skills improve quickly. He had a great first weekend and grew tremendously!

PT II to follow:

Last edited by Cmassey3; 07-11-2022 at 08:35 PM..
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      07-11-2022, 11:35 AM   #2
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I don't think I'm going to turn this E92 into a class racecar with areo, multiway dampers, gutted interior, etc. I'd just assume get an already prepped car and I live in an apartment so I can't go the truck + trailer route anytime soon. Thankfully the M3 is great at lugging track gear to and from a circuit.

That being said, after talking with instructors and my mechanic (who also tracks), what's next for the car is
  • Camber plates + springs on the OEM EDC shocks - these seem to be fine in normal mode at VIR and don't show any signs of failing soon even at 81k miles. I'm not fast enough to exceed the stock limits and this car needs to drive there an back for the foreseeable future.
  • A set of track rims, probably Apex or Bimmerworld 18x10 et25. Not as much for the performance gains as much as having a road tire set to get home on + winter set if needed.
  • AP Racing/Alcon front BBK - I'm fine with OEM + PFC08s for now but my summer instructor recommended at least a front BBK to fix the Achilles heel of the E9x M platform. Probably will try this when I burn through the new OEM front rotors I had put on.

Last edited by Cmassey3; 07-11-2022 at 12:58 PM..
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      07-11-2022, 12:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmassey3 View Post
I don't think I'm going to turn this E92 into a class racecar with areo, multiway dampers, gutted interior, etc. I'd just assume get an already prepped car and I live in an apartment so I can't go the truck + trailer route anytime soon. Thankfully the M3 is great at lugging track gear to and from a circuit.

That being said, after talking with instructors and my mechanic (who also tracks), what's next for the car is
  • Camber plates + springs on the OEM EDC shocks - these seem to be fine in normal mode at VIR and don't show any signs of failing soon even at 81k miles. I'm not fast enough to exceed the stock limits and this car needs to drive there an back for the foreseeable future.
  • A set of track rims, probably Apex or Bimmerworld 18x10 et25. Not as much for the performance gains as much as having a road tire sets to get home on + winter set if needed.
  • AP Racing/Alcon front BBK - I'm fine with OEM + PFC08s for now but my summer instructor recommended at least a front BBK to fix the Achilles heel of the E9x M platform. Probably will try this when I burn through the new OEM front rotors I had put on.
Awesome to hear and welcome to the proper never ending money pit. That said, sounds like you're still very green running average D group speeds?

Just invest $$$ in seat time and instruction. Maybe camber plates but even then just stick with cheap tires, FCP euro track brake pads, and get hundreds of laps! Run with NASA, SCCA, and others to get more perspective and varied instruction.

Get into the more advanced groups and then start pouring money into the car. If a built car is really where you want to take it, attend one off BMW CCA / Bimmerworld cosponsored competition schools. Upon graduation BW extends a handsome one time discount to get the car sorted. Would save thousands of dollars on the requisite items to bring the car to a log book race car.
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      07-11-2022, 01:10 PM   #4
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I'm relatively new to this as well with only 4 track weekends under my belt. But everyone I've spoken with agrees to throw more money in seat time, proper pads (pfc 08 are great), tires, run higher temp brake fluid, etc. All above a BBK. Stock brakes are definitely fine especially for running D and C group with the CCA.

You can always pull the pins and get like -1 or -1.5 ~ish~ of neg. camber.
Just a heads up since I'm assuming you daily the car, PFC 08's are extremely extremely loud on street. If you know how to swap pads on your own, then they're great to just throw stock pads on for the street. In my experience, Ferodo Ds2500 were quiet on street and fine on track--although once I started pushing harder, I outgrew these.
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      07-11-2022, 01:14 PM   #5
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I had to skip the spring HPDE class since I needed new front rotors, pads, and valve covers and gaskets, totaled somewhere in the $6k range so I had to just sit and recover from that expense. Really thought about ditching the platform and going in on a GR86, but thought better of it after a post here talking through the details.

For the summer school I ran the VIR North Course which was much better IMO for the novice group as you take out the uphill esses and the back straight where you can really get into trouble. I also really clicked with my instructor this time as he had also gotten into HPDE and moved up the ranks in a stock F82 M4.

I was able to start to refine some driving techniques and focus more on identifying areas where I need to learn, unlearn, and relearn. My biggest takeaway is that I've developed an improper feel for trail braking in that I'm carrying in 30%-40% brake pressure into the apex and therefore adding unnecessary length to the braking zones. I had an eye opening accident/discovery on T4 setting up for the snake esses by leaving on 10% brake pressure and got a great rotation on entry. It'll take a lot of practice to unlearn this hanging on the brakes too long into the corner, but I've at least had 1-2 corners of something right to base the feel on. My initial on the brakes seems to be good, it's the off the brake muscle memory that needs a lot of work.

I'm now exceeding the D group pace and my last instructor expects me to enter C/lower intermediate in the fall school. I probably could've made more progress this school, but I had to retire from the last two sessions due to heat soak brain fog just killing my on track performance. Southern summer track sessions are no joke and I've already gotten some great tips on improving heat fade from the general chat. I loved how this session was more relaxed with less folks, I ended up being one of the front runners in this grouping and had some good passing with an orange 911 GTS which had a lot of pace on me. Getting up on full throttle and staying there is taking a lot of guts, but I'm working through it.
Instructor logs from summer session:

This is 2nd event for Camden, first time at VIR North. He’s an exceptional student, I have never seen anyone who came in so well prepared - learned the track using sim racing, research on driving dynamics, set goals himself and told me what he’d like to work on etc. Driving wise he’s beyond D level, he showed maturity immediately and understood the basics (turn in, apex, track out, etc.). We worked on getting used to the feel and weight transition of the car which I emphasized greatly — we’re weight mangers. He has strong insight into what is happening with the car and able to execute exactly as he was asked to do so. He continued to ask questions about vehicle dynamics while driving w/o losing pace, and has excellent memory on what went wrong and what he didn’t do. It’s incredible! I wish every student was like this every time!

I recommend Camden to stay in D group one more time and do VIR FULL next time to get more seat time and continue to work on braking hard and getting to full throttle on straights, etc. After that he should be in C or lower intermediate group. Also recommend trying out different tracks, continue to sim race, sign up for skid pad and other invaluable skill development programs - detecting and recovering from under and oversteer is crucial. Auto cross is also good too , so is karting, etc. and driving in rain which is also a big bonus! Can’t wait to work with Camden in the future in different run group and he would make a GREAT instructor someday with his keen insights and skills.
I didn't get as many photos from the summer session, but learned a lot:



Here we were all stacked up behind a new track driver in a green Viper ACR (out of frame) who was rightfully terrified of opening it up. Passing him at full clip coming out of hogpen onto the main straightaway was my highlight of the weekend.


Last edited by Cmassey3; 07-11-2022 at 08:36 PM..
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      07-11-2022, 01:22 PM   #6
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I'd like to start ramping up the track time and add in different circuits like Charlotte's Roval and Road Atlanta. I'd also like to find more run groups that have a good instructor program as I'm not ready to jump into open lapping. The PCA is my first guess as another run group as there's a decent amount of folks crossing over between these two groups. Before I had stared this I thought the groups were much more brand exclusive than I thought. NASA and SCCA are others I've looked into but haven't joined yet.

Since I'm still tracking the OEM 220m rims, I'm a little unsure about how long to roll on a set of tires since I can't exactly cord them and then turnaround and drive home. I'll probably retire these ECS prematurely as they now have 4 novice track days and 2 tail of the dragon trips on them. I'm just learning about airing up and down and zeroing in on correct tire pressures during lapping as the ECS can get greasy after 2-3 laps. I've thought about splurging on the Michelin Connect software since my 2008 iDrive only has a green or yellow orb around each tire on the diagram and it's nowhere near as good as the TPS system in my previous instructor's F80 M3 CS.

Last edited by Cmassey3; 07-11-2022 at 01:27 PM..
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      07-11-2022, 01:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Awesome to hear and welcome to the proper never ending money pit. That said, sounds like you're still very green running average D group speeds?

Just invest $$$ in seat time and instruction. Maybe camber plates but even then just stick with cheap tires, FCP euro track brake pads, and get hundreds of laps! Run with NASA, SCCA, and others to get more perspective and varied instruction.

Get into the more advanced groups and then start pouring money into the car. If a built car is really where you want to take it, attend one off BMW CCA / Bimmerworld cosponsored competition schools. Upon graduation BW extends a handsome one time discount to get the car sorted. Would save thousands of dollars on the requisite items to bring the car to a log book race car.
This sounds like a good plan, maybe I should try the Firestone Indy 500s instead of the Cup 2 Connects I've been looking at.
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      07-11-2022, 01:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hein Jockins View Post
I'm relatively new to this as well with only 4 track weekends under my belt. But everyone I've spoken with agrees to throw more money in seat time, proper pads (pfc 08 are great), tires, run higher temp brake fluid, etc. All above a BBK. Stock brakes are definitely fine especially for running D and C group with the CCA.

You can always pull the pins and get like -1 or -1.5 ~ish~ of neg. camber.
Just a heads up since I'm assuming you daily the car, PFC 08's are extremely extremely loud on street. If you know how to swap pads on your own, then they're great to just throw stock pads on for the street. In my experience, Ferodo Ds2500 were quiet on street and fine on track--although once I started pushing harder, I outgrew these.
Thankfully I WFH and usually just drive myself so I've left the PFC08s in for the season since the car isn't driven too much. They're quieter than I was expecting based on what I read about race pads, but still very audible.
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      07-11-2022, 02:00 PM   #9
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Looks like a great time. Definitely try the Charlotte roval, I had a blast at the Track Night in America event. I'm trying to get back on the track soon. I've got a few minor upgrades I've got to do. And some driver upgrades as well.
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      07-11-2022, 02:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmassey3 View Post

I've thought about splurging on the Michelin Connect software since my 2008 iDrive only has a green or yellow orb around each tire on the diagram and it's nowhere near as good as the TPS system in my previous instructor's F80 M3 CS.
Not worth it, it would actually be better for you to not know what is going on with the tire pressures and just learn how to adapt as the car changes. This will help you learn how to drive the car under different circumstances.

You start getting understeer - instead of coming in the pits and lowering the tire pressure, learn how to driver around it. Same with oversteer or hot tires. All great opportunities to learn.

And for tires, get something endurance rated like the Hankook Rs4's. Something you can beat on that won't have too much grip. Until you go TCS off, I'd just stick with basic 200tw "endurance" tires. I just ran a whole year on RS4's with TCS off and learned a ton.
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      07-11-2022, 02:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmassey3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Awesome to hear and welcome to the proper never ending money pit. That said, sounds like you're still very green running average D group speeds?

Just invest $$$ in seat time and instruction. Maybe camber plates but even then just stick with cheap tires, FCP euro track brake pads, and get hundreds of laps! Run with NASA, SCCA, and others to get more perspective and varied instruction.

Get into the more advanced groups and then start pouring money into the car. If a built car is really where you want to take it, attend one off BMW CCA / Bimmerworld cosponsored competition schools. Upon graduation BW extends a handsome one time discount to get the car sorted. Would save thousands of dollars on the requisite items to bring the car to a log book race car.
This sounds like a good plan, maybe I should try the Firestone Indy 500s instead of the Cup 2 Connects I've been looking at.
Yeah lots of good cheap tire options. Also, you can limp home on pretty aggressively corded tires. Alignment plays into wear. Until you're booking and need the turn-in prowess of a "toe out front end" I'd keep front toe neutral as possible.

Look into FCPs lifetime warranty if you're not already familiar as it's a worthwhile solution for track pads and rotors, oils, etc.

Get a cheap Bluetooth TPMS system from Amazon and you can get live pressures. Might not be absolute but reasonable directional knowledge.

Some worthwhile things to consider for track kit:
- AAA membership
- split beam torque wrench
- basic metric socket sets, 3/8" is great middle ground. Although the split beam is likely to be 1/2" so might want a dedicated 17mm deep socket for wheels.
- battery inflator (helpful if it's not at the track so you can bleed pressures down through the day and back up for the drive home). Also play with pressures. Be curious and don't go right to the "lower is faster conclusion". Try going out with mismatched front vs rear and feel the changes to the inputs.
- quality pressure gauge
- small cooler
- note book for taking notes on setup, feels, notes, etc.
- golf umbrella
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      07-11-2022, 03:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmassey3 View Post
Thankfully I WFH and usually just drive myself so I've left the PFC08s in for the season since the car isn't driven too much. They're quieter than I was expecting based on what I read about race pads, but still very audible.
It's odd how everyone has a different experience with pad loudness. It sounds like a train is stopping when I have my PFC08's on, but I've heard people say ds2500's are squeaky but mine never made a sound. Maybe it depends on pad deposits on rotors or if anti squeal was applied (which I don't do).

Hope to see you on track at some point!
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      07-11-2022, 07:54 PM   #13
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Checked out the Hankook RS4s and it looks like they make a 245 that'll fit the OEM 19" front, but not a 265 that'll fit the 19" rear: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ty=2&tab=Sizes

Could I run 275 rears on the OEM 19"? It looks like there might be more sizing options from Hankook direct: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/05...1258226content
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      07-11-2022, 08:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmassey3 View Post
Checked out the Hankook RS4s and it looks like they make a 245 that'll fit the OEM 19" front, but not a 265 that'll fit the 19" rear: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...&tab=Sizes

Could I run 275 rears on the OEM 19"? It looks like there might be more sizing options from Hankook direct: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/05...1258226content
Yes, you can. It's a bit taller and you'll rub if you try to get aggressive with lowering and spacers, but if you keep it moderate it'll fit with no issues
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      07-11-2022, 08:29 PM   #15
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I was at the tarheel cca event last fall btw. Red e92 on black titan 7's in c group on Saturday and b group on Sunday.
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      07-11-2022, 08:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king View Post
Yes, you can. It's a bit taller and you'll rub if you try to get aggressive with lowering and spacers, but if you keep it moderate it'll fit with no issues
Ah ok, I'm at stock height and stock spacing so that sounds like it'll be fine.

Judging from the site, I think the stagger would be
Front: 245/35ZR19 RS4 (8" - 9.5" wheel)
Rear: 275/35ZR19 RS4 (9" - 11" wheel)
That wouldn't radically change the stock handling dynamic, right? IIRC, the OEM stagger is supposed to have built in under steer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king View Post
I was at the tarheel cca event last fall btw. Red e92 on black titan 7's in c group on Saturday and b group on Sunday.
I think I remember seeing a red e92 like that out there then, I didn't make the driver connection. I'll have to catch you at the next one.

Last edited by Cmassey3; 07-11-2022 at 08:38 PM..
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      07-11-2022, 08:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmassey3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king View Post
Yes, you can. It's a bit taller and you'll rub if you try to get aggressive with lowering and spacers, but if you keep it moderate it'll fit with no issues
Ah ok, I'm at stock height and stock spacing so that sounds like it'll be fine.

Judging from the site, I think the stagger would be
Front: 245/35ZR19 RS4 (8" - 9.5" wheel)
Rear: 275/35ZR19 RS4 (9" - 11" wheel)
That wouldn't radically change the stock handling dynamic, right? IIRC, the OEM stagger is supposed to have built in under steer.
You can upsize the front tire to 255/35 and be fine as well if you want to keep the stock amount of tire stagger constant.

Any factory understeer they put in the car with tire size stagger can be dialed out with an alignment if you wanted.

If you add camber plates you might as well adjust the toe out just a touch and have a more neutral handling car.
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      07-25-2022, 12:18 PM   #18
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Signed up for VIR full this September and I'm debating retiring the ECS I've had on the car for 2 years and 8k miles now with 4 HPDE days and many Blue Ridge mountain trips on them. They've worn well and don't look unsafe to a visual inspection, but I'm a little unsure about the compound health and they grease over easy. Thankfully I'm not chewing up the sidewall even with stock alignment, most likely due to higher PSI on track.

The Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3s I had been looking at are backordered for a year I think. The Hankook RS3s only fit the OEM spec rears, not the fronts. The Falken RT660s seem just too hot for my stock setup in the lower intermediate HPDE brackets at 200tw. Costco has the Cup 2 240 for about as much as I got the ECS for from Discount Tire after they toss those mileage warranties at you. They seem to be the only endurance type track tire available at the moment that fits OEM tire specs, also with a BMW star rating.
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      07-25-2022, 01:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmassey3 View Post
Signed up for VIR full this September and I'm debating retiring the ECS I've had on the car for 2 years and 8k miles now with 4 HPDE days and many Blue Ridge mountain trips on them. They've worn well and don't look unsafe to a visual inspection, but I'm a little unsure about the compound health and they grease over easy. Thankfully I'm not chewing up the sidewall even with stock alignment, most likely due to higher PSI on track.

The Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3s I had been looking at are backordered for a year I think. The Hankook RS3s only fit the OEM spec rears, not the fronts. The Falken RT660s seem just too hot for my stock setup in the lower intermediate HPDE brackets at 200tw. Costco has the Cup 2 240 for about as much as I got the ECS for from Discount Tire after they toss those mileage warranties at you. They seem to be the only endurance type track tire available at the moment that fits OEM tire specs, also with a BMW star rating.
are you on 19s? or 18s? either way i highly recommend giving the Kumho V730s comes in 18 and 19s. it seems to be right up your alley in terms of requirements.
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      07-25-2022, 01:35 PM   #20
Cmassey3
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Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
are you on 19s? or 18s? either way i highly recommend giving the Kumho V730s comes in 18 and 19s. it seems to be right up your alley in terms of requirements.
It looks like that Kumho only fits OEM fronts, at least with stock fitment: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/kumho-ecsta-v730 It's probably cheaper than Michelin though.

I'm on the 19" 220m rims. 245/35-19 F, 265/35-19 R.
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      07-25-2022, 01:58 PM   #21
omgzirra_exe
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Originally Posted by Cmassey3 View Post
It looks like that Kumho only fits OEM fronts, at least with stock fitment: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/kumho-ecsta-v730 It's probably cheaper than Michelin though.

I'm on the 19" 220m rims. 245/35-19 F, 265/35-19 R.
they run fairly narrow, but the grip very very well~ absolutely under rated tire per dollar.
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      07-25-2022, 02:06 PM   #22
Cmassey3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
they run fairly narrow, but the grip very very well~ absolutely under rated tire per dollar.
Ah ok, I guess I'd need to find a tire shop willing to fudge the fitment.
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