Apple CarPlay/Android Auto Retrofit

[PACarGuy]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

So the Carplay box should show up as "GPLink" - it's weird that you're getting the Wifi ID in there also.

Do you have another device called GPLink? If you edit that device does it modify the settings properly?

If modifying GPLink doesn't work, then maybe try forgetting the device and re-pairing?

I had an issue when I tried switching to Airplay for streaming - the device didn't like switching back to Carplay after that. I think the issue stems from the device broadcasting two SSID's depending on what mode it wants to be in and the phone has trouble deciding which one is the primary.

Ah, there we go. Thank you! I didn't realize GPLink was the permanent name of the Carplay device since it would show the other SSID as well at the bottom, and I could never click on it. But now that you've confirmed the correct device name, I can go in and customize GPLink as with all others.

Had to clear a few codes after finishing up, but all working well now, including USB (the cable had detached itself from the box in the back after I reinstalled the head unit...damn it's tight back there!). The audio quality is better than the Kremersino v1 as well, and the splice into the OEM mic works much better than the aftermarket mic that Kremersino unit used. Definitely a better unit!

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by PACarGuy

Ah, there we go. Thank you! I didn't realize GPLink was the permanent name of the Carplay device since it would show the other SSID as well at the bottom, and I could never click on it. But now that you've confirmed the correct device name, I can go in and customize GPLink as with all others.

Had to clear a few codes after finishing up, but all working well now, including USB (the cable had detached itself from the box in the back after I reinstalled the head unit...damn it's tight back there!). The audio quality is better than the Kremersino v1 as well, and the splice into the OEM mic works much better than the aftermarket mic that Kremersino unit used. Definitely a better unit!

Glad it works - yes it's very snug, making sure the cables are neatly routed certainly helps. I had my USB harness almost completely in the void by the glovebox to make more room but getting the head unit back in is still a PITA theres very little clearnace and I know those cables are getting smooshed once I screwed it in. I very occasionally will notice a gremlin with my rear view camera popping up with a color channel missing, but it always goes away so I haven't bothered chasing it down, suspect that connection is a little wonky.

[Bubbles]

Anyone run try to run the reverse camera manually by using the rear fog light circuit as the triggering source?

[akkando]

Originally Posted by GTiceman

Do you have a combox?

Okay so I finally got the correct cable. I can confirm that aux audio does work from the rear of of the head unit via the quadlock after I coded the values. Coded with BimmerCode. I think the car has to be turned off and on it again for settings to take.

Also I can confirm my USB in arm rest still has power. Not sure about glove box.

Not sure how to quickly pause music in CarPlay because mute just mutes and doesn't pause. Siri will do it though. Obviously you can pause on the UI.

[e92335drew]

Originally Posted by akkando

Okay so I finally got the correct cable. I can confirm that aux audio does work from the rear of of the head unit via the quadlock after I coded the values. Coded with BimmerCode. I think the car has to be turned off and on it again for settings to take.

Also I can confirm my USB in arm rest still has power. Not sure about glove box.

Not sure how to quickly pause music in CarPlay because mute just mutes and doesn't pause. Siri will do it though. Obviously you can pause on the UI.

How did you get the correct cable? I have exactly the same issue, with two of the same cables shipped in my package. Now I am sitting here with my car apart wondering how the hell I'm going to resolve this. Did the seller respond?

[akkando]

Originally Posted by e92335drew

How did you get the correct cable? I have exactly the same issue, with two of the same cables shipped in my package. Now I am sitting here with my car apart wondering how the hell I'm going to resolve this. Did the seller respond?

Yes in a day or two they responded via AliExpress messaging and sent the cable. Took 2 weeks I think? I tried to buy a cable on Amazon that would get here faster but it did not work. I think you could get a cable from bmw parts or fcp euro etc, but it's expensive. I assume from bmw the only safe cable is the CIC cable but I was never 100 percent sure.


However, if you got two cables that are female female instead of the male female extension cables I think you're good. The extension from Carsara out to the original CIC cable (pink) I think is unneeded.... it would reach without issue but I'm just guessing it would work. In my case I had no cable that could go from head unit to Carsara Input.

If you have the extensions like me I decided to just hook it up which meant Carsara worked for CarPlay but no idrive and no audio because I could not use the idrive to select aux input. I just left the trim on slightly loose and off for Hvac and head unit and listened to the engine while I watched for cops on Waze.

[e92335drew]

Originally Posted by akkando

Yes in a day or two they responded via AliExpress messaging and sent the cable. Took 2 weeks I think? I tried to buy a cable on Amazon that would get here faster but it did not work. I think you could get a cable from bmw parts or fcp euro etc, but it's expensive. I assume from bmw the only safe cable is the CIC cable but I was never 100 percent sure.


However, if you got two cables that are female female instead of the male female extension cables I think you're good. The extension from Carsara out to the original CIC cable (pink) I think is unneeded.... it would reach without issue but I'm just guessing it would work. In my case I had no cable that could go from head unit to Carsara Input.

If you have the extensions like me I decided to just hook it up which meant Carsara worked for CarPlay but no idrive and no audio because I could not use the idrive to select aux input. I just left the trim on slightly loose and off for Hvac and head unit and listened to the engine while I watched for cops on Waze.

Not sure I understand how that would work in any configuration. In my situation I can’t connect the lvds from the box to the CIC unit.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by e92335drew

Not sure I understand how that would work in any configuration. In my situation I can’t connect the lvds from the box to the CIC unit.

The cable with the pink connector ( that I assume goes to the screen ) that went to the head unit pink connection instead can go to the Carsara output either directly or with extension (the directions say to use extension). Then in theory if your Carsara box works you should be able to see and use it. ( hold down menu button to switch screen to Carsara) Without the head unit pink connection going into carsara input connection you'll however not see the bmw idrive menu you used to see.

[Metrics]

Ladies and Gents

I hope you can help/advise me please. I've followed this thread with interest - thanks to Cyberdemon and you all for making this such a helpful resource.

I run a 2012 F10 Alpina with CIC and decided to take the plunge with a Carsara box and installed it today. It's almost there but I have the exact same problem as PACarGuy - after 1 min I get the same error message, see image.

Like your E9* installations, my car did not need the iDrive loom - the controller works the screen perfectly. A# is connected to B#.
I've tried connecting L# to B# but then the display does not come on at all.
I've also tried connecting the IDrive loom in case this works, but nothing with that either.
The most successful option is A# direct to B# with L# not attached to anything, but I get this error message every 1 min.

Any suggestions guys? I wonder if something is needed into the feed L# and this is tripping the message??

One other quirk is if I turn on the radio with the ignition off, before the install I'd get the iDrive screen switch on and radio would play. Now radio plays but I get no iDrive screen, only an orange screen.
But if I turn the ignition on, normal BMW splash screen and iDrive screen loads as normal.

Other than this it seems to work ok. I've emailed carsara and hope they can help, or I hope someone can advise me on how to solve?

On audio, like you guys I've tried to code out AUX from the console to HU only but I only get the first code option CDMM_AUX_HU - I've changed to "aktiv"
But I can't find the USB_SINGLE or DOUBLE
Currently I am only getting audio if I connect the aux wire into the console (so it's still live despite the one code change I made)

Any advice would be gratefully received

[e92335drew]

Originally Posted by akkando

The cable with the pink connector ( that I assume goes to the screen ) that went to the head unit pink connection instead can go to the Carsara output either directly or with extension (the directions say to use extension). Then in theory if your Carsara box works you should be able to see and use it. ( hold down menu button to switch screen to Carsara) Without the head unit pink connection going into carsara input connection you'll however not see the bmw idrive menu you used to see.

So I tried this today while I wait to figure out getting the proper LVDS cable, after wrestling with getting the quadlock to let me push the CIC back in. Of course, I got the pink screen. I was going with the same theory you mentioned, that with a good LVDS out ( I assume LVDS out would allow me to display the carsara video) that I'd be able to get carplay up. Luckily, my radio is still on a good station and was able to play music hahaha. Checked the dipswitch settings again, I have just 4 on as per the instructions.

Was hoping to get this up temporarily, as I already have my audio set to aux as I used to have a USB powered bluetooth hook up to my aux in the center console before hooking up this disaster.

iDrive extension is disconnected, and A > B connection was set as per the instructions in this thread. CIC coding was done before I attempted install for aux settings from the quadralock.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by e92335drew

So I tried this today while I wait to figure out getting the proper LVDS cable, after wrestling with getting the quadlock to let me push the CIC back in. Of course, I got the pink screen. I was going with the same theory you mentioned, that with a good LVDS out ( I assume LVDS out would allow me to display the carsara video) that I'd be able to get carplay up. Luckily, my radio is still on a good station and was able to play music hahaha. Checked the dipswitch settings again, I have just 4 on as per the instructions.

Was hoping to get this up temporarily, as I already have my audio set to aux as I used to have a USB powered bluetooth hook up to my aux in the center console before hooking up this disaster.

iDrive extension is disconnected, and A > B connection was set as per the instructions in this thread. CIC coding was done before I attempted install for aux settings from the quadralock.

Just hold menu for 3 seconds in pink screen. The pink screen is the idrive probably unless you dip switches are wrong. When I did it I got pink red screen until I held menu button to switch to CarPlay.

For me on dip switches is 3 4 7.

See direction below

[e92335drew]

Originally Posted by akkando

Just hold menu for 3 seconds in pink screen. The pink screen is the idrive probably unless you dip switches are wrong. When I did it I got pink red screen until I held menu button to switch to CarPlay.

For me on dip switches is 3 4 7.

See direction below

Thanks for that.. more up to date than the instructions I have. This got me to get it to gradually switch to a grey/whitish screen.

[romero1990]

has anyone run into Bluetooth/audio/microphone issue? mainly the microphone. when I make phone call over in-car microphone with Android auto, my voice sounds like going over a walkie talkie.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by romero1990

has anyone run into Bluetooth/audio/microphone issue? mainly the microphone. when I make phone call over in-car microphone with Android auto, my voice sounds like going over a walkie talkie.

On iOS/Carplay no, I made a test call and it was fine. Do you have a spouse or friend with another phone you can try pairing? Certain bluetooth stacks can default to lower quality sound under certain conditions - so ruling out the phone first might be the easiest test.

[romero1990]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

On iOS/Carplay no, I made a test call and it was fine. Do you have a spouse or friend with another phone you can try pairing? Certain bluetooth stacks can default to lower quality sound under certain conditions - so ruling out the phone first might be the easiest test.

the phone connects to the car's default Bluetooth OK. so I kinda suspect the problem is either with the microphone input or the cabling. won't it be also bad playing audio if it is the Bluetooth compatibility? it is playing the music OK though

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by romero1990

the phone connects to the car's default Bluetooth OK. so I kinda suspect the problem is either with the microphone input or the cabling. won't it be also bad playing audio if it is the Bluetooth compatibility? it is playing the music OK though

If you try to use voice commands (for example, try sending a long and complex text message using voice) - does that seem to get garbled or misunderstood?

It could be the patch connector or cable, but that involves unscrewing things. I would only suggest texting the phone first as a screwdriver free approach. If the new phone has the same audio issue then it's more likely a hardware thing and you can try re-seating the splice cable.

You can also try pairing your phone to the default BMW bluetooth and making a call and see if you notice any interference. Since the signal passes through the splice cable it might indicate if there is some bad connection along the way or a connector not all the way seated.

[e92335drew]

Originally Posted by akkando

Just hold menu for 3 seconds in pink screen. The pink screen is the idrive probably unless you dip switches are wrong. When I did it I got pink red screen until I held menu button to switch to CarPlay.

For me on dip switches is 3 4 7.

See direction below

Well the seller came back and is shipping me a cable that should arrive in 2 weeks he said. In the mean time, I asked for support to get my CarPlay going as I have LVDS and this should function. Especially since you had the same issue and were able to get it going in the short term. Definitely frustrated... tried both 3/4/7 and 4/7 and just get the white screen.

He sent me instructions on different install methods. I've already got everything in place in terms of pre-coded the CIC through protool, remove the iDrive extension, removed the loop, and connected #A to #B. I'm not clear on what else I can do to troubleshoot this thing.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by e92335drew

Well the seller came back and is shipping me a cable that should arrive in 2 weeks he said. In the mean time, I asked for support to get my CarPlay going as I have LVDS and this should function. Especially since you had the same issue and were able to get it going in the short term. Definitely frustrated... tried both 3/4/7 and 4/7 and just get the white screen.

He sent me instructions on different install methods. I've already got everything in place in terms of pre-coded the CIC through protool, remove the iDrive extension, removed the loop, and connected #A to #B. I'm not clear on what else I can do to troubleshoot this thing.

I'm out of suggestions at this point, sorry

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by e92335drew

Well the seller came back and is shipping me a cable that should arrive in 2 weeks he said. In the mean time, I asked for support to get my CarPlay going as I have LVDS and this should function. Especially since you had the same issue and were able to get it going in the short term. Definitely frustrated... tried both 3/4/7 and 4/7 and just get the white screen.

He sent me instructions on different install methods. I've already got everything in place in terms of pre-coded the CIC through protool, remove the iDrive extension, removed the loop, and connected #A to #B. I'm not clear on what else I can do to troubleshoot this thing.

Did you confirm that the LVDS in and out aren't switched? I know you only have 1 cable but I had mine backwards at one point.

[e92335drew]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Did you confirm that the LVDS in and out aren't switched? I know you only have 1 cable but I had mine backwards at one point.

Went back in to examine today, it swapped over no issue. It must have required a box restart after changing the dipset settings is the only thing I can think of. Now I can visually see my CarPlay features but tried a blind run to get it off CD to external and front aux with no success. I’ll have to wait until this lvds cable ships in until I can test audio.

[///M3Fresh]

Since I last looked in this thread Carsara wasnt an option. I had recently sold my E90M which had the KV2 that I got from brettcp and worked flawlessly.

I am now back in another M3 and have a question: the previous owner has converted my car from a CCC to CIC with screen/iDrive controller ect. If I were to buy one of these units, should if get the CCC version or the CIC?

I have a feeling I should know the answer and it should be CCC version but anyone else in my shoes thats decided to go CCC >CIC>ACP/AA setup?

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by ///M3Fresh

Since I last looked in this thread Carsara wasnt an option. I had recently sold my E90M which had the KV2 that I got from brettcp and worked flawlessly.

I am now back in another M3 and have a question: the previous owner has converted my car from a CCC to CIC with screen/iDrive controller ect. If I were to buy one of these units, should if get the CCC version or the CIC?

I have a feeling I should know the answer and it should be CCC version but anyone else in my shoes thats decided to go CCC >CIC>ACP/AA setup?

If the owner converted it to a CIC you need a CIC version.