How often do you replace your studs and lug nuts?

[FogCityM3]

Second the torque stick at 80 ft/lb. Point is you use it to torque to 80 and do the last 8-12 ft/lbs with the torque wrench with perfect accuracy, depending on type of bolts/studs. All it is really is a time saver.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

It's lower with studs, read the directions.

Originally Posted by FogCityM3

Second the torque stick at 80 ft/lb. Point is you use it to torque to 80 and do the last 8-12 ft/lbs with the torque wrench with perfect accuracy, depending on type of bolts/studs. All it is really is a time saver.

so 1more is saying its lower, and you're saying its 8-12 ft/lbs higher than 80? is it possible that different companies use higher quality metals and call for more torque?

[1MOREMOD]

Pretty sure my bimmerworld race say 80lbs

[roastbeef]

i was browsing for torque sticks (giggedy) on amazon and thought of a product i bought a little while back to mount some tires on beadlock wheels for my truck. its a digital torque meter that you can set to inch/lbs or ft/lbs, or you can view the static torque load. they also make one in the 1/2" drive size and i picked one up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[macdude357]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

Pretty sure my bimmerworld race say 80lbs

I bought the Bimmerworld Race studs as well. I just confirmed with them that the torque specs are 55-60 ft-lbs for stud to hub, 75-80 lug nut to stud. So yes, lower than the lug bolts.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

It should be 88-90 ft/lbs

Even at 80ft/lbs, you're close enough within the tolerance for the OE bolts. Unless you're torque wrench is reading higher than it should (clicking lower than indicated).

I'd check the instructions because some studs are different.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i've been looking at torque sticks. do they work well?

i'm looking at this one.
https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-5009...s=torque+stick

Mine is black with a green rubber coating. I'd verify it but they do stop at some value. All you need to do is continue to squeeze the trigger until the fastener doesn't turn. If you let off early, you'll be below whatever the stick is rated for.

When it reaches the torque spec, the impact vibrates pretty bad, the equivalent to a click on a torque wrench.

I'd guess that most people let up on the trigger early causing the fastener to not be torqued to the desired spec.

[Nihilation]

This thread makes me re-think my latest used Apex wheel stud purchase.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by Nihilation

This thread makes me re-think my latest used Apex wheel stud purchase.

Yeah those are garbage moat likely

[FogCityM3]

Sorry for the confusion...several points I was trying to make. 1) torque stick should be used to a level just below what final torque spec is.. if it's 80, should get a 70 or 75 ft/lbs torque stick, if 90, then get an 80 ft/lbs torque stick. They are not perfectly accurate and many believe that you should tighten the last 5-10 ft/lbs manually with a torque wrench for a more precise value, which is what I do, but that precision may not be needed for most applications. 2) Studs have lower spec, bolts have higher. The reason I know that my bolts need 92 ft/lbs is that if they are lower (e.g. 90 ft/lbs which is where stock is from 88-90), the coils resist twisting in the mounts more (even with my TC Kline trust sheets), making this clicking sound on slow sharp turns on the spring opposite the inner wheel of the turn. Torque it to 92 ft/lbs, and sound goes away. I have Tikore titanium lug nuts so those may require slightly more tightening as you need to put anti-seize due to differing materials...the bolts are stronger than stock steel or most aftermarket steel bolts, but slightly less strong than the strongest available steel aftermarket, but not by much. Interestingly the F80 M3 specs to ~103-105 range for the stock bolts.

Originally Posted by roastbeef

so 1more is saying its lower, and you're saying its 8-12 ft/lbs higher than 80? is it possible that different companies use higher quality metals and call for more torque?

[Estoril Blue]

Originally Posted by FogCityM3

I have Tikore titanium lug nuts so those may require slightly more tightening as you need to put anti-seize due to differing materials...the bolts are stronger than stock steel or most aftermarket steel bolts, but slightly less strong than the strongest available steel aftermarket, but not by much. Interestingly the F80 M3 specs to ~103-105 range for the stock bolts.

Torque specs are dry. Adding any lubricant (its not clear to me why you would do that) would cause the metal-to-metal contact to require less force than dry to tighten- thus applying more actual torque to the fastener than indicated/measured. Problem is - you cannot measure just how much torque is being applied - that torque level's effect on the metal. Titanium is more brittle than steel. And adding a lubricant varies on each bolt - each time you apply it. The more you apply - the more torque is applied while providing a false low reading.

[FogCityM3]

It was recommended by the manufacturer, but you only apply the anti seize once. Because of different materials of the wheel hole and the titanium under high heat conditions there is an increased risk of seize.

As far as the brittleness, researched this quite extensively and most OEM stock steel bolts or aluminum bolts are not as strong as highest grade titanium (tensile, yield, or shear). The highest available strength steel for racing applications is stronger than both titanium and steel stock, but it's not a huge margin. Titanium bolts are applied on much higher g, weight and torque applications and run fine on many street supercars on the track. You hear bad stories about shearing all the time on all materials, but couldn't statistically verify that one was worse (or better) than the other, particularly with the manufacturer in question. I'd be more leery if I went to the track more times per year or for greater than 20-30 min sessions and for piece of mind, I always carry extra bolts with me to track days.

Originally Posted by Estoril Blue

Torque specs are dry. Adding any lubricant (its not clear to me why you would do that) would cause the metal-to-metal contact to require less force than dry to tighten- thus applying more actual torque to the fastener than indicated/measured. Problem is - you cannot measure just how much torque is being applied - that torque level's effect on the metal. Titanium is more brittle than steel. And adding a lubricant varies on each bolt - each time you apply it. The more you apply - the more torque is applied while providing a false low reading.

[TheUnscented]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

You've got to be familiar with your torque wrench since they all click differently. You don't want to be leaning on it with all your might when the wrench clicks. You can easily get an extra 1/8th of a turn.

If you want to be super anal retentive then you'd torque to about 90% and then do a final torque to 100%.

I don't even use a torque wrench. I use a 80ft lb torque stick on a Milwaukee 18v battery impact. Squeeze the trigger and keep going until the nut stops turning. I've check it enough to know I'm right around 80 ft/lbs.

This is assuming that the mating surfaces on your wheels and hubs are clean and you've properly seated the wheel flush against the face of the hub.

Finally, someone put a number on it 80 Ft/lbs correct setting then? Thanks

[macdude357]

Originally Posted by TheUnscented

Finally, someone put a number on it 80 Ft/lbs correct setting then? Thanks

The answer is "it depends". For the Bimmerworld Race studs, it's 80 ft/lbs. For stock lug bolts it's 88 ft/lbs. For other brands of studs, check with the seller.

[ayao]

Originally Posted by macdude357

The answer is "it depends". For the Bimmerworld Race studs, it's 80 ft/lbs. For stock lug bolts it's 88 ft/lbs. For other brands of studs, check with the seller.

Apex recommends 85 ft-lbs for a street car and < 90 ft-lbs for track use.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Mine is black with a green rubber coating. I'd verify it but they do stop at some value. All you need to do is continue to squeeze the trigger until the fastener doesn't turn. If you let off early, you'll be below whatever the stick is rated for.

When it reaches the torque spec, the impact vibrates pretty bad, the equivalent to a click on a torque wrench.

I'd guess that most people let up on the trigger early causing the fastener to not be torqued to the desired spec.

Black torque stick.

[roastbeef]

fuckin looooooooooooooool

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

fuckin looooooooooooooool

Huh huh huh huh


Lol

[Kong Sheng Han]

I ordered an Apex kit with two extra studs and lug nuts. Hopefully they arrive by Friday.

[1MOREMOD]

Probably break by Monday

[Kong Sheng Han]

Fuckme

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by macdude357

I bought the Bimmerworld Race studs as well. I just confirmed with them that the torque specs are 55-60 ft-lbs for stud to hub, 75-80 lug nut to stud. So yes, lower than the lug bolts.

I'd like to meet anyone who has torqued the BW studs into the hubs at 55ft lbs and shake their hand.

Then I'll laugh my a$$ off when they try and remove them.

Ain't no way in hell. Just red loctite and bottom out the stud against the hub.