Track forum general chit chat.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

Fellas, I’m torn and curious on what you guys think,

Have an opportunity to sell my stoptech ST40 all around …. Using that money to go with the BW Alcon CR6420 and stock brakes w track pads.


Thoughts are I’ll have better performance w the Alcons vs the stoptechs all around…

I run the CR6420 with a F8X Rear. The CR6420 caliper is smaller compared to the AP 9668 caliper. I also saw your question on Facebook but didn't have time to answer. The CR6420 will clear almost all popular 18-inch wheels. I have more room in my TE37s compared to others with the AP9668 kit. if that helps answer your question about E88 fitment.

Even before I upgraded to the F8X rear BBK, I ran the OEM rear brakes with matching brake compound, and it didn't disturb the car at all. I used Carbotech XP12 Front Pads and XP10 Rear Pads, as well as XP10s for the fronts.

The XP12 and street driving really ate up my rotor though, in roughly under 20k miles.

Personally, I think the Alcon kit is underrated and offers great value for the performance gain. I had Alcon on my Evo and my S2000 for many years before getting an E92, and once I found this kit, it was a must-have.

What I enjoy about my Alcon kit is its easy communication with Pro-Sytem brakes, which produces the kit for BimmerWorld. Replacement rotor/hats/kits are made locally in the US, with fast shipping, etc.

I think the caliper is also like 1 or 2 lbs heavier than the AP9668, though, so that's one downside.

If you can sell your ST40 kit and it covers a good chunk of the CR6420 kit, absolutely go for it. But it's not really needed, although with how hard it is to get Stoptech parts, it might be an even better reason to move on, assuming they are still having troubles with inventory.

Originally Posted by Merrick

It looks as though BC ZRs are popular among Formula Drift cars, which indicates their excellence. I'm impatient to hear more input from others!

For what it's worth, BC produces the majority of the parts for other "Taiwanese" based coilovers, from internals to shock bodies, etc. They aren't the best, but they're not great either. However, they certainly get the job done and are relatively cheap to replace since you can buy just the shocks if something goes wrong.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

Fellas, I’m torn and curious on what you guys think,

Have an opportunity to sell my stoptech ST40 all around …. Using that money to go with the BW Alcon CR6420 and stock brakes w track pads.


Thoughts are I’ll have better performance w the Alcons vs the stoptechs all around…

The Alcons aren’t going to make you any faster if that’s what you mean, unless they adjust brake bias in a manner that is better than the full stoptech kit for your overall setup.

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

The Alcons aren’t going to make you any faster if that’s what you mean, unless they adjust brake bias in a manner that is better than the full stoptech kit for your overall setup.

I guess the reason for even considering the switch is I feel a lack in confidence with the stoptechs.. could've been the DTC70pads?

also, knockback sucks... and I figured upgrading to a better brake kit will give me more confidence on track

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

I guess the reason for even considering the switch is I feel a lack in confidence with the stoptechs.. could've been the DTC70pads?

also, knockback sucks... and I figured upgrading to a better brake kit will give me more confidence on track

Hawk DTC70 pads suck, so maybe. Get a pad known for good modulation first. Pads are going to have the biggest impact on feel and modulation.

As for knockback, yea that sucks, and I wouldn’t settle for a brake setup which doesn’t prevent that…There are anti-knockback springs for the stoptech, but then you are essentially removing the whole braking system anyways, so if the cost delta to alcon kit isn’t insanely huge (after selling stoptech), I would probably also make the switch too. I splurged on a PFC full bbk on my E90 because brakes on this pig are quite a heavily used item. Never regretted it.

[tsk94]

I never experienced any negatives with the full Alcon kit myself. They simply worked. Consistent brake pedal, zero fade, good modulation, even pad wear, no knockback, etc.

I guess it depends on how much it would cost you. I'd be tempted to throw in some knock back springs and a better pad and I bet that would be a massive improvement right there.

[rhyary]

I have imortant question to ask and since the answer has to be something I can count on, please offer information you know, or link to information I can read about this myself. But refraine from opinions and advise on how to fill oil correctly. Most of us experienced the low oil reading after an oil change and the need to wait for a day or two to get a good resding when all is working as it should.

The issue:
I have a carbahn engine with the optional oil pan baffel. It looks like the baffel interfere with the sensor that reads the oil level.

Because it tends to flactuate, it may ask me to add oil, and then report later “oil overfill”

In my case, if it reports overfill, I know it is only by a little bit.

My question is this:
What is the harm in “oil over fill” what actually happpens? Will it just spew out the extra oil? create a mess no harm? or will it actual damage somthing?

Thanks in advance.

[spammysammich]

You can get excess oil through the pcv system and lots of smoke/fouled O2 sensors. If overfilled enough, you can get the crank to sweep through the oil and beat air into it. Aerated oil will seize an engine. A google search can list other problems.

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I have imortant question to ask and since the answer has to be something I can count on, please offer information you know, or link to information I can read about this myself. But refraine from opinions and advise on how to fill oil correctly. Most of us experienced the low oil reading after an oil change and the need to wait for a day or two to get a good resding when all is working as it should.

The issue:
I have a carbahn engine with the optional oil pan baffel. It looks like the baffel interfere with the sensor that reads the oil level.

Because it tends to flactuate, it may ask me to add oil, and then report later “oil overfill”

In my case, if it reports overfill, I know it is only by a little bit.

My question is this:
What is the harm in “oil over fill” what actually happpens? Will it just spew out the extra oil? create a mess no harm? or will it actual damage somthing?

Thanks in advance.

This could be super annoying, especially after all that money you spent..

Did you reach out to Carbahn about it?

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I have imortant question to ask and since the answer has to be something I can count on, please offer information you know, or link to information I can read about this myself. But refraine from opinions and advise on how to fill oil correctly. Most of us experienced the low oil reading after an oil change and the need to wait for a day or two to get a good resding when all is working as it should.

The issue:
I have a carbahn engine with the optional oil pan baffel. It looks like the baffel interfere with the sensor that reads the oil level.

Because it tends to flactuate, it may ask me to add oil, and then report later “oil overfill”

In my case, if it reports overfill, I know it is only by a little bit.

My question is this:
What is the harm in “oil over fill” what actually happpens? Will it just spew out the extra oil? create a mess no harm? or will it actual damage somthing?

Thanks in advance.

If you're certain you added the correct amount of oil, then that should suffice.

I've experienced overfilling by about .25 quart before, and driving with a few WOT pulls to and from over several days of going to work helped burn off the excess.

During my recent oil change, I added 9Q, but it still showed +1 quart on the cluster. After driving around for about 1200 miles over three weeks, the oil level remained with add +1, I just recently added 1q and i'm back to "ok".

If you knowingly overfilled by a full quart, it might be advisable to drain some out to prevent issues with crank pressure, as too much oil can cause aeration and foaming.

note: I also willingly add .25 to .5 quarts on track days and had no issues.

also isn't the whole point of the oil baffle to keep oil were the pick up tube is and not slosh around? so it showing overfilled could just be that.

[rhyary]

I know I am starting with 9L oil.
I have to see what the display will settle on.
Main issue would be bunch of 3-day events at WGI. I will have to add oil proactivly, but how much is hard to know without a physical deep stick. Last year I was able to add a bit every day and it seemed to be correct. I got home and it said “overfill” when I shut off the engine after it was fine driving 3 hours back home. Grrrrrr. :-(

[tsk94]

Is it too late to add on one of those physical dipsticks Bimmerworld, and others, offer..?
That would eliminate all of this 2nd guessing. I generally would fill my car, let it idle on level ground for 15-20 minutes and reaccess. I would often need to add a small amount, but I never had to do anything again after that point.

[turbo_joe]

Selling my KW Clubsports if anyone here is interested

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...7#post30987957

[donald]

Originally Posted by rhyary

I have imortant question to ask and since the answer has to be something I can count on, please offer information you know, or link to information I can read about this myself. But refraine from opinions and advise on how to fill oil correctly. Most of us experienced the low oil reading after an oil change and the need to wait for a day or two to get a good resding when all is working as it should.

The issue:
I have a carbahn engine with the optional oil pan baffel. It looks like the baffel interfere with the sensor that reads the oil level.

Because it tends to flactuate, it may ask me to add oil, and then report later “oil overfill”

In my case, if it reports overfill, I know it is only by a little bit.

My question is this:
What is the harm in “oil over fill” what actually happpens? Will it just spew out the extra oil? create a mess no harm? or will it actual damage somthing?

Thanks in advance.

Are you adding a full quart when it asks you to?

I usually add 0.25... up to 0.5 at a time. I've had instances where it asked me to fill a quart, and it really only needed a half to get to the right spot.

non-Carbahn motor, FWIW, but I think the logic still holds.

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by donald

Are you adding a full quart when it asks you to?

I usually add 0.25... up to 0.5 at a time. I've had instances where it asked me to fill a quart, and it really only needed a half to get to the right spot.

non-Carbahn motor, FWIW, but I think the logic still holds.

Asked me for a quart, I tried 250 mL just in case. Gave me an overfill warning. FML I want to meet the person that decided to 86 the dip sticks on these cars and fire them into the sun

[omgzirra_exe]

also to add, i had a friend who has a 4.6L stroker now and his oil level sensor will never read full, turns out it was the Voltage Regulator in the actuator that caused the problem lol which i think also resolved an issue with another forum member.

[kolosy]

does anyone know if m-world is still around? i ordered an AiM ECU cable from them ... 3 weeks ago? And nothing. Phone goes straight to google VM, no response to my email. I paid through paypal, so no money lost but still odd.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by kolosy

does anyone know if m-world is still around? i ordered an AiM ECU cable from them ... 3 weeks ago? And nothing. Phone goes straight to google VM, no response to my email. I paid through paypal, so no money lost but still odd.

Let us know if this ends up going through.
I had the ECU cable on my last car and the kit worked great, and I was going to buy another one now...

[Cmassey3]

I'm really impressed with the longevity of my PFC08s. I think I have 4 track weekends and just passed tech for the 5 with them. Granted, I'm not doing maximum attack laps and that factors in a lot. As a casual track day pad, these are great.

When I got to drive a G87 M2 at the Performance Center, the first thing I noticed was the soft modulation characteristics of the street pads and how much I missed the bite of the 08s haha.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by kolosy

does anyone know if m-world is still around? i ordered an AiM ECU cable from them ... 3 weeks ago? And nothing. Phone goes straight to google VM, no response to my email. I paid through paypal, so no money lost but still odd.

I’d say the chances are slim to none that they are still in business.. I can’t even tell the last time the owner has logged into m3post.

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

I’d say the chances are slim to none that they are still in business.. I can’t even tell the last time the owner has logged into m3post.

last post in 2016, but someone's still paying for the website

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by kolosy

last post in 2016, but someone's still paying for the website

Interesting. Good point about someone keeping the lights on. When I looked at his profile page, it looked like it was sanitized after something bad had happened there! Unless he changed his username? I bought a set a Swift springs from him over a decade ago.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by kolosy

last post in 2016, but someone's still paying for the website

i would say get your money back, it's a lost cause most likely.