Rod bearing replacement around Seattle

[Ndc2991]

Changed my settings and pmd you.

[ItsCoo2PYoPants]

Originally Posted by andrewmega

Got my car back today. Good turnaround time, dropped off at 8am yesterday and received the call that it was ready for pickup around 1045am today. Also kind enough to give me a ride when I dropped off and picked up the car.

My total cost out the door was $3617.47. This was BE Bearings rod bearings with their recommended ARP bolts and OEM motor mounts.
Definitely pleased with the service, they knew what they were doing and got it done quickly.

My bearings were in bad condition, especially one had chunks missing out of it. Fortunately no damage from that. I'll start a thread over in the engine subforum with details later today.

how many miles on your car when you had the bearings changed?

what is the shops contact info that you used?

[jiggz]

^ the shop in question for a good portion of this thread is Group 2 Motorsports -

https://www.g2motorsports.com/contact/

[Route 16]

would anyone like to help me swap steerings wheels from my non-m to my m3 and vice versa, i'm in lacey

beers on me? or lunch i dunno

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by Route 16

would anyone like to help me swap steerings wheels from my non-m to my m3 and vice versa, i'm in lacey

beers on me? or lunch i dunno

If you find the diy on here you won't need any help honestly. It's very easy.

[andrewmega]

Originally Posted by ItsCoo2PYoPants

how many miles on your car when you had the bearings changed?

what is the shops contact info that you used?

I had just over 57000 and the shop was G2 Motorsports as jiggz posted

[jamba]

Originally Posted by Route 16

would anyone like to help me swap steerings wheels from my non-m to my m3 and vice versa, i'm in lacey

beers on me? or lunch i dunno

I can help depending when you want to do it. I'm looking for a M performance steering wheel so will eventually be doing this on my car so I might as well see how its done.

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by jhoneil

I can help depending when you want to do it. I'm looking for a M performance steering wheel so will eventually be doing this on my car so I might as well see how its done.

sounds good, I'm still waiting on delivery of my car from HI, I'd imagine in 2 weeks time, would meeting at my place in lacey be okay?

[ItsCoo2PYoPants]

Originally Posted by andrewmega

I had just over 57000 and the shop was G2 Motorsports as jiggz posted

thanks for the info. how did they look at 57k miles? im at 58k currently. I was thinking about doing it closer to 100k miles

[andrewmega]

Originally Posted by ItsCoo2PYoPants

thanks for the info. how did they look at 57k miles? im at 58k currently. I was thinking about doing it closer to 100k miles

Especially terrible. Hard to say when/if you should do them since how they wear seems to be down to luck but I am definitely glad I did mine earlier rather than later.

Here's a thread I started on them at the time with some pictures
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1352151

[ItsCoo2PYoPants]

^ that’s crazy, at such low miles. What bearings did you go with as replacements?

[Transfer]

Originally Posted by andrewmega

Especially terrible. Hard to say when/if you should do them since how they wear seems to be down to luck but I am definitely glad I did mine earlier rather than later.

Here's a thread I started on them at the time with some pictures
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1352151

Those bearings are like a horror show.

As a prior owner and someone who plans to pick up another E9x next year, I have followed the rod bearing saga from the beginning and would personally plan to do them at 60k miles OR have a warranty. Looks like engine mounts could be appropriate at 60k as well.

[kerrit]

Originally Posted by Transfer

Those bearings are like a horror show.

As a prior owner and someone who plans to pick up another E9x next year

hurry the F up

[Transfer]

Originally Posted by kerrit

hurry the F up

If I were to show up in an STI or some shit next year I think you might have a stroke.

[andrewmega]

Originally Posted by ItsCoo2PYoPants

^ that’s crazy, at such low miles. What bearings did you go with as replacements?

BE bearings and rod bolts, replaced mounts with OEM at the same time.

[Z K]

Originally Posted by Transfer

Those bearings are like a horror show.

As a prior owner and someone who plans to pick up another E9x next year, I have followed the rod bearing saga from the beginning and would personally plan to do them at 60k miles OR have a warranty. Looks like engine mounts could be appropriate at 60k as well.

Engine mounts are definitely done by 60k.. I'd say to replace them earlier at 50k. Mine were crushed and torn at 70k miles. You don't notice the degradation of the mounts because it happens gradually but with new mounts the car feels so smooth.

[kerrit]

Originally Posted by Transfer

If I were to show up in an STI or some shit next year I think you might have a stroke.

a stroke just after I slapped the shit out of you

[ItsCoo2PYoPants]

What is the difference between BE bearings and WPC treated bearings?

Did you order parts in advance or let the shop source parts?

[shimmy23]

Originally Posted by ItsCoo2PYoPants

What is the difference between BE bearings and WPC treated bearings?

Did you order parts in advance or let the shop source parts?

WPC treated have a coating on essentially OEM spec bearings. BE bearings are thinner spec’d than OEM to compensate for clearance and are lead like the early model OEM versions

That being said a set of WPC bearings have been removed from a car and have shown visible wear. So in theory we can only think that BE is better?

Another important aspect is choosing a good set of bolts. From what I’ve read, you want the OEM spec BE bolts.

If you allow the shop to order the parts at least you’ll get some kind of warranty thru them. I’m sure you could tell them what to order

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by shimmy23

WPC treated have a coating on essentially OEM spec bearings. BE bearings are thinner spec’d than OEM to compensate for clearance and are lead like the early model OEM versions

That being said a set of WPC bearings have been removed from a car and have shown visible wear. So in theory we can only think that BE is better?

Another important aspect is choosing a good set of bolts. From what I’ve read, you want the OEM spec BE bolts.

If you allow the shop to order the parts at least you’ll get some kind of warranty thru them. I’m sure you could tell them what to order

Replace first bold with "surface treatment", and second bold with "BE spec ARP bolts."

[notouching]

I'm planning to get rod bearings (+rod bolts and motor mounts) done this winter.
Will be getting quotes from Group2, IS Garage, and a couple of shops in Oregon - AR Auto Service and Pacific Motorsports.

Will update on quotes I get and who I decide to go with.

[notouching]

Got the most reasonable quote from IS Garage, looks like I'll be going with them.