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      01-10-2019, 09:19 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajmun340 View Post
Hi Nik, it made sense to keep it for now, because of depreciation on factory new price and since I am the original owner. It will get harder to find such low mileage cars over time for buyers and they don't make them high revving V8 anymore.
Right on mate, keep filling that oil and enjoy ... And the EDC, any changes/updates Joe?
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      01-10-2019, 12:53 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
Right on mate, keep filling that oil and enjoy ... And the EDC, any changes/updates Joe?
Nik, no changes with EDC but i replaced my original battery an hour ago and this just reminds me the theory we discussed about a new battery possibly helping to restore the e-dampers actuators dynamic response to factory crisp by better buffering the alternator voltage. This would be the same effect as re-fitting new supply caps in an analog amplifier with old caps which makes an audible improvement. I will check on my next ride and let you know but won't be surprised if no difference. Cheers, mate.
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      01-11-2019, 04:12 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Rajmun340 View Post
Nik, no changes with EDC but i replaced my original battery an hour ago and this just reminds me the theory we discussed about a new battery possibly helping to restore the e-dampers actuators dynamic response to factory crisp by better buffering the alternator voltage. This would be the same effect as re-fitting new supply caps in an analog amplifier with old caps which makes an audible improvement. I will check on my next ride and let you know but won't be surprised if no difference. Cheers, mate.
Replaced my battery due to old age quite some time ago. Learned to live with the remaining small differences in settings, doesn't stop me from loving the car though....
As I'm sure you noticed, the car is crazy sensitive for different tyre pressure. A couple of tens of Bar makes all three EDC settings to "lose" or all three to "hard". Finding the right pressure differentiate better between the settings.
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      05-07-2020, 02:32 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by shimmy23 View Post
i believe the carly app reads the true oil level. do you have that app to give it a try?
No such thing as "true oil level", only what the one oil sensor produces.
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      05-08-2020, 04:54 AM   #49
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From Newtis

"The measurable result of an engine oil consumption is overridden by the quality of the fuel used and of the driving profile. If, for example, in winter a lot of short distances are driven (= high fuel entry since the vaporisation temperature is for the most part only briefly achieved) and then a longer distance is driven (fuel can now vaporise), a significant drop in the engine oil level is encountered on this trip.

This does not constitute engine oil consumption, but instead merely a different engine oil level on account of the fuel content in the engine oil. Customer complaints can often be put down to this fact. The situation can arise where the engine oil level drops over a few 100 km by around 1 litre. Added to this is some engines is a degree of uncertainty of up to 0.3 litres by the relevant measuring system (oil dipstick/QLT)."

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...fluids/2v3QS5F
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      05-08-2020, 08:55 PM   #50
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When I did the oil filter housing gasket on my m3 A lot of oil was removed from the engine.

I started with pouring 9 quarts in. Started the car, let it warm up. “Engine oil level low.”

Okay. BMW says the computer only reads if .5L minimum is added. So I added .5L or quarts whatever of 10w60. Now the OBD engine oil level is telling me engine oil to high, and I only added the .5.

So I dumped the other .5 in. Even though it said level was to high. It had a reading of to high for about two weeks. Now it’s at the max.

These sensors are just finicky. It doesn’t matter if it’s brand new sensor or not. You just have to know the quirks of the sensors. I’ve replaced with a brand new $250 genuine sensor. And had the same issues.
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      08-17-2020, 09:16 AM   #51
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Hi there, I'm new to this forum but this is the only thread i've found online that had the same issue as me.

When i bring the engine up to temperature and the car takes the first oil reading it says full (i've just had a major service and a new oil level sensor). After 15 - 20 mins driving on the motorway (i'm british ) the car asks me to add 1l of oil. If i then come off the motorway and do some town driving, the car says the oil level is fine after a reset.

Does anyone know what the remedy is here please because most specialists i've called have no idea!

The car is a 2008 e92 m3.

Thanks!
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      08-17-2020, 05:18 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb2707 View Post
Hi there, I'm new to this forum but this is the only thread i've found online that had the same issue as me.

When i bring the engine up to temperature and the car takes the first oil reading it says full (i've just had a major service and a new oil level sensor). After 15 - 20 mins driving on the motorway (i'm british ) the car asks me to add 1l of oil. If i then come off the motorway and do some town driving, the car says the oil level is fine after a reset.

Does anyone know what the remedy is here please because most specialists i've called have no idea!

The car is a 2008 e92 m3.

Thanks!

It’s not uncommon for the oil level to bounce around for several days after an oil change before it settles into a true level. I would not add more until you’ve done some more trip cycles/miles.
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      08-19-2020, 03:17 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyrix1st View Post
Mine turned out to be the leaking oil cap. Doesn't use oil at all since changing to E46 M3 one.
Same for me.

Bought the car used with approx. 50-55k Miles. After a brief period, engine Oil level starts dropping without any signs of leakage.

I start adding, already worried that there might be more to it.

Shortly after realized, that ignition coil on cylinder 8 had gone bad. Seems that unburnt fuel washed the cylinders slightly and thinned the oil. So out with the old, in with the new (as if 10W60 Castrol is so affordably priced LOL).

Oil consumption more or less stopped.

However, there was still some oil missing every now and then. During a fuel stop I one day luckily realized a little tiny oil-mist / haze on top of the valve covers. OIL CAP. Changed it to a new one, gasket had dry rotted, no consumption thereafter - even during heaviest abuse in the Alps. Seems like the engine is loosing pressure at the oil cap to an extent where it also has a side effect in terms of oil-return etc. (just guessing).

After I had changed the oil-cap, only time my sensor read very weird levels was after an oil-change earlier this year, combined with a couple of short errands where the engine did not get warm enough.

There is a dip-stick retro fit option available, that gets rid of the sensor afaik. Quite pricey though - unfortunately.
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      08-19-2020, 05:01 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerEisbaer View Post
Same for me.

Bought the car used with approx. 50-55k Miles. After a brief period, engine Oil level starts dropping without any signs of leakage.

I start adding, already worried that there might be more to it.

Shortly after realized, that ignition coil on cylinder 8 had gone bad. Seems that unburnt fuel washed the cylinders slightly and thinned the oil. So out with the old, in with the new (as if 10W60 Castrol is so affordably priced LOL).

Oil consumption more or less stopped.

However, there was still some oil missing every now and then. During a fuel stop I one day luckily realized a little tiny oil-mist / haze on top of the valve covers. OIL CAP. Changed it to a new one, gasket had dry rotted, no consumption thereafter - even during heaviest abuse in the Alps. Seems like the engine is loosing pressure at the oil cap to an extent where it also has a side effect in terms of oil-return etc. (just guessing).

After I had changed the oil-cap, only time my sensor read very weird levels was after an oil-change earlier this year, combined with a couple of short errands where the engine did not get warm enough.

There is a dip-stick retro fit option available, that gets rid of the sensor afaik. Quite pricey though - unfortunately.
Thanks a lot for the suggestions. Was yours throwing a code that prompted you to find out that the coil on cylinder 8 was faulty?

I had the issue with oil misting around the filler cap. Replaced the OEM filler cap with the e46 one and problem solved.
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      08-20-2020, 12:51 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb2707 View Post
Thanks a lot for the suggestions. Was yours throwing a code that prompted you to find out that the coil on cylinder 8 was faulty?

I had the issue with oil misting around the filler cap. Replaced the OEM filler cap with the e46 one and problem solved.
Coil was not throwing a code immediately.

Judging from my neighbours comments about the car smelling like "fuel&oil" (I used to own a Corrado before that and a Mk2 GTI - so fumes don't bother me...) it must have been acting up for a while. At least a few hundred Kilometers. Once it stuttered I got the OBD scanner out and found a code, yes.
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      08-20-2020, 03:16 AM   #56
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Mine does smell a bit fuely so think I might get the codes read to see if anything comes up. When it was stuttering, was it doing it low in the Rev range? I’ve noticed a slight stutter below 2k rpm in 2nd and 3rd so wondering if this could be the problem...
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      08-20-2020, 06:28 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb2707 View Post
Mine does smell a bit fuely so think I might get the codes read to see if anything comes up. When it was stuttering, was it doing it low in the Rev range? I’ve noticed a slight stutter below 2k rpm in 2nd and 3rd so wondering if this could be the problem...
This could indeed be it... Remember that mine was similar, and then continued to become noticeable in the whole rev-range. It was gone under WOT, which resulted in my doing a Autobahn Run at 240-260km/h one night to somehow bring it back to my place.

It didn't show a check engine light or similar at any point of the coil becoming / being bad.
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      08-20-2020, 08:40 AM   #58
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      08-20-2020, 10:25 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerEisbaer View Post
This could indeed be it... Remember that mine was similar, and then continued to become noticeable in the whole rev-range. It was gone under WOT, which resulted in my doing a Autobahn Run at 240-260km/h one night to somehow bring it back to my place.

It didn't show a check engine light or similar at any point of the coil becoming / being bad.
This is very helpful, thank you. Out of interest, what software did you use to check the codes? Would something like Carly pick it up?
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      08-21-2020, 01:47 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb2707 View Post
This is very helpful, thank you. Out of interest, what software did you use to check the codes? Would something like Carly pick it up?
Very welcome!

Carly should definitely pick it up - I used a cheapo OBD Scanner (ELM327 Style) and the Torque App for Android.

Works for me and does not require a subscription. I bought the Torque Pro App a while ago, and that has been awesome (although it did not work 100% with the E39 that I had owned before - but I do have access to a Gutmann scanner if needed, so Torque+ELM327 is really just for road trips and quick scans / deletes).
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      08-21-2020, 10:03 AM   #61
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Mine does the same. If its still over the OK, it should be fine.
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