Custom Clevite Rod Bearings

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by Obioban

APR bolts add a lot of cost to save a couple minutes work.

Have you done the 3 stage torque sequence 3 times for each of 16 bolts? Takes more than a couple of minutes work. If you were paying a shop, I am confident you would come out at a wash or ahead by paying $200 extra for the ARPs that do not require 2 "break in" sets of 3 stage torque sequence prior to doing the final. Since I was the mechanic and don't get $200 per hour, I saved the money and spent the extra time and it was a lot more than a couple of minutes extra. Probably an hour.

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Have you done the 3 stage torque sequence 3 times for each of 16 bolts? Takes more than a couple of minutes work. If you were paying a shop, I am confident you would come out at a wash or ahead by paying $200 extra for the ARPs that do not require 2 "break in" sets of 3 stage torque sequence prior to doing the final. Since I was the mechanic and don't get $200 per hour, I saved the money and spent the extra time and it was a lot more than a couple of minutes extra. Probably an hour.

I've done it for 12 bolts (S54) and will be doing it for 16 at some point (S62, already own WPC treated bearings for it, just waiting till oil analysis shows elevated lead).

[pbonsalb]

If you can do 3 stages of torque 2 extra times for each of 16 bolts in a couple of minutes, you are much faster than me.

The S54 torque sequence I have seen is different. Only one 3 stage sequence required. That would be only a couple of minutes PER BOLT longer than using a single stage ARP that requires just one sequence per bolt. The S65 torque sequence specifies doing the 3 stage torque sequence 3 times for each bolt.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se..._and_bearings/

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

If you can do 3 stages of torque 2 extra times for each of 16 bolts in a couple of minutes, you are much faster than me.

The S54 torque sequence I have seen is different. Only one 3 stage sequence required. That would be only a couple of minutes PER BOLT longer than using a single stage ARP that requires just one sequence per bolt. The S65 torque sequence specifies doing the 3 stage torque sequence 3 times for each bolt.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se..._and_bearings/

The s65 procedure does, indeed, seem more intense. I had not looks at its procedure before.

Still, if you're DIYing... Doesn't seem like it's worth the extra cost to me (unless repeatedly DIYing).

[pbonsalb]

That is because we work cheap so we can spend our savings on more car stuff.

[Yellow Snow]

Edited......

[nusevad]

Im in for a set. subscribed

[4DRS65]

Sub'd

[VtecforV8]

Subscribed.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Obioban

The s65 procedure does, indeed, seem more intense. I had not looks at its procedure before.

Still, if you're DIYing... Doesn't seem like it's worth the extra cost to me (unless repeatedly DIYing).

The other thing to consider is you're much less likely to screw up the more simple ARP procedure than the procedure for the OE bolts.

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

The other thing to consider is you're much less likely to screw up the more simple ARP procedure than the procedure for the OE bolts.

^This. Also, this shouldn't happen but if for any reason you get distracted/disrupted, you can simply loosen the ARP and re-tighten. If you loose track of where you were in the process with the OE one, you have to start over with a new bolt.

[aus]

When can we expect to be able to get the details and possibly order these?

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by aus

When can we expect to be able to get the details and possibly order these?

Stay tuned to Original Post for updated details.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

The other thing to consider is you're much less likely to screw up the more simple ARP procedure than the procedure for the OE bolts.

Not really. You should not be doing this job if you are that incompetent.

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Not really. You should not be doing this job if you are that incompetent.

Ok now you're just being argumentative. You can't imagine any reason to get out from under the car during the hour plus it would take to do the torque procedure carefully? Stuff happens man.

[pbonsalb]

Have you done it? I have. If you cannot handle tty specs you should not be doing any complex car work.

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Have you done it? I have. If you cannot handle tty specs you should not be doing any complex car work.

On the S65? No. On other platforms? Yep. Shit happens. Wrenches go out of spec, phones ring, kids fall on their heads. It's not a case of "you can't handle it" it's removing a potential error rate.

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

Stay tuned to Original Post for updated details.

Thanks.

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by Richbot

On the S65? No. On other platforms? Yep. Shit happens. Wrenches go out of spec, phones ring, kids fall on their heads. It's not a case of "you can't handle it" it's removing a potential error rate.

+1

All things being equal, forgoing opportunities to avoid potential pitfalls does not make you a "man"; it makes you stupid.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by Richbot

On the S65? No. On other platforms? Yep. Shit happens. Wrenches go out of spec, phones ring, kids fall on their heads. It's not a case of "you can't handle it" it's removing a potential error rate.

If those things cause you problems while you are working on your car, I agree you should keep things as simple as possible. Those DIYers who can handle more can save $200. I have previously stated that non DIYers should buy ARPs if paying a shop by the hour for labor because the ARPs will pretty much pay for themselves by saving some shop labor.

[e92zero]

I don't think it's fair to tag this as DIYer being able to handle it or not. There is nothing complicated about the 3 stage process. You use a marker and each time you take the torque angle meter off, you mark it. You get 3 marks you are done. It's really simple, just take a little bit more time. But being able to DIY doesn't mean you cannot do it the easier and less error prone way. As the other poster has said, 'shit happens'. From what I read, it's also pretty well perceived that the ARP bolts are superior to the factory ones and multiple experts have pointed out that the engine can benefit from better bolts still even though the factory ones are fine. If the MRP thread regarding bolts issue holds true, then there is even more reason to be using ARP bolts. So to me, choosing the ARP bolts over the factory is pretty easy. It has nothing to do with the $200 saving. My 2 cents and last reply on using ARP vs factory ones. Cheers.

Sorry to kawasaki00 for taking this thread off topic.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by e92zero

There is nothing complicated about the 3 stage process. You use a marker and each time you take the torque angle meter off, you mark it. You get 3 marks you are done. It's really simple, just take a little bit more time.

My point exactly. I totally agree. The risk of screwing up this simple process should not be a reason to buy ARP bolts. Buy them because you want to save some of your time or some of a shop's time.