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      10-09-2016, 08:30 PM   #2135
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admranger and roastbeef

Sorry if you ordered these already but I just stripped my drain port with them. Possibly prior damage but hard to know, BMW likely uses softer metal plugs to avoid this. Jammed a gigantic generic plug in there for now and taking the car to my preferred local shop tomorrow for them to time sert the drain port. Love doing my own work but frustrated and embarrassed and just want it fixed now!

four just showed up at my house yesterday. oh well, i'll send them back.
My apologies for the trouble and better safe than sorry! Have worked for me for the last three oil changes but not this time and unsure if they contributed or not.
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      10-09-2016, 08:38 PM   #2136
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the plugs and the pan are both aluminum, correct? i changed my oil when the car was warm and when i took the plug out, it rapidly cooled and stuck to the allen head. maybe something with a steel plug and aluminum pan expanding at different rates?
i'll have to ask my mechanic. i watched him do the change once and the plugs were not an issue at all. i even double checked that i was using the correct size allen head.
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      10-09-2016, 11:50 PM   #2137
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My oil and oil pan were exceptionally hot today, perhaps that had something to do with it. That said, be careful folks, looks like a new oil pan is somewhere around ~$1k, ouch. My mechanic is confident he can time sert or nut sert a new thread in, fingers crossed. For those who haven't experienced this before the symptom is a drain plug bolt that gets reasonably tight but then keeps spinning.
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      10-10-2016, 02:46 AM   #2138
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unfortunately, this seems like it is becoming a common problem. maybe just more people have been doing their own oil changes and this is becoming talked about more?


anyone else going to laguna seca on 10/14?
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      10-10-2016, 09:09 AM   #2139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin
My oil and oil pan were exceptionally hot today, perhaps that had something to do with it. That said, be careful folks, looks like a new oil pan is somewhere around ~$1k, ouch. My mechanic is confident he can time sert or nut sert a new thread in, fingers crossed. For those who haven't experienced this before the symptom is a drain plug bolt that gets reasonably tight but then keeps spinning.
Tight but keeps spinning happened to me before. Means you tightened too much.
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      10-10-2016, 09:58 AM   #2140
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Tight but keeps spinning happened to me before. Means you tightened too much.


I need to get one of these:
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      10-10-2016, 12:17 PM   #2141
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I need to get one of these:
just hand tighten - people get picky about torque figures but it's a drain plug!
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      10-10-2016, 03:38 PM   #2142
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I know my vids are boring without the data, but if you're bored at work and want to pretend you're at the track...
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      10-10-2016, 06:03 PM   #2143
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Time for a new set of rubber. Does anyone have experience with the Ventus TD. Ive been using Nt01s and see that the Ventus TD hard model is around the same price. Soft model is a lot more. They both have 80 treadwear. Is the soft model just stickier? And how does the hard model compare to the nt01?
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      10-10-2016, 07:22 PM   #2144
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Time for a new set of rubber. Does anyone have experience with the Ventus TD. Ive been using Nt01s and see that the Ventus TD hard model is around the same price. Soft model is a lot more. They both have 80 treadwear. Is the soft model just stickier? And how does the hard model compare to the nt01?
Funny you ask. If you scroll to page 95 Post #2082 you will find what you are looking for.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...241147&page=95
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      10-11-2016, 11:56 AM   #2145
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With these cars, it seems that most people are always fighting for more front grip. I have been experimenting with running the fronts with lower psi than the rears. I like the results. I haven't considered psi for rear braking.

As far as suspension setup, I can't give you any specific advice on Ohlins R/T as I'm a JRZ guy, but in general, I don't like the rear to be too edgy. If the rear is too edgy, the car starts to feel nervous everywhere which doesn't appeal to me at all. I imagine braking falls into the same line of thought. If the car is setup with an active rear end, it will contribute to a feeling of instability during braking as well.

Spot-on. The OEM pressures for the 19" wheels are 35/36, which surprised me.

I agree that the rear can feel a bit nervous under braking unless your technique is really good -- and even then it can still feel a bit light. I had a pretty lengthy thread here earlier this year on this very topic.
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      10-11-2016, 12:28 PM   #2146
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Has anyone ever had the brakes suddenly get very loud on the drive home from the track?

My brakes were silent when I drove to the track and throughout the day, but suddenly on the drive home they squealed like you wouldn't believe. Does this kind of thing go away over time? It doesn't look like they need to be re-bedded -- the disc surface has a nice blue color and it's a smooth finish all-around.
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      10-11-2016, 02:45 PM   #2147
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Has anyone ever had the brakes suddenly get very loud on the drive home from the track?

My brakes were silent when I drove to the track and throughout the day, but suddenly on the drive home they squealed like you wouldn't believe. Does this kind of thing go away over time? It doesn't look like they need to be re-bedded -- the disc surface has a nice blue color and it's a smooth finish all-around.
I wonder if this has something to do with how much pad is left. When I first put on my PFC08's they didn't squeal that much. Now that they are down to about 50%, they squeal all the time. Maybe you crossed some threshold at the track (wore them down a few more mm) so they squeal more now.
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      10-11-2016, 02:53 PM   #2148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm
Has anyone ever had the brakes suddenly get very loud on the drive home from the track?

My brakes were silent when I drove to the track and throughout the day, but suddenly on the drive home they squealed like you wouldn't believe. Does this kind of thing go away over time? It doesn't look like they need to be re-bedded -- the disc surface has a nice blue color and it's a smooth finish all-around.
In my experience, this is normal. Sometimes my brakes don't make much noise until they are warm.
Also, while the outside of your rotors look good, it's still possible for the inner rings of the rotors to have pad deposits or accelerated pad wear.

I recently learned from dogbone that MDM primarily uses the front brakes. This can lead to accelerated wear. For example, I had the least amount of pad meat on my inside driver's front pads. Most likely from MDM intervention on a few high speed right hand sweepers on my home track.

Are you swapping pads?
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      10-11-2016, 03:34 PM   #2149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357 View Post
I wonder if this has something to do with how much pad is left. When I first put on my PFC08's they didn't squeal that much. Now that they are down to about 50%, they squeal all the time. Maybe you crossed some threshold at the track (wore them down a few more mm) so they squeal more now.

These pads are brand new. They probably had 100 street miles on them.




Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
In my experience, this is normal. Sometimes my brakes don't make much noise until they are warm.
Also, while the outside of your rotors look good, it's still possible for the inner rings of the rotors to have pad deposits or accelerated pad wear.

I recently learned from dogbone that MDM primarily uses the front brakes. This can lead to accelerated wear. For example, I had the least amount of pad meat on my inside driver's front pads. Most likely from MDM intervention on a few high speed right hand sweepers on my home track.

Are you swapping pads?

No, I haven't needed to swap. I'm not generating enough heat in the BBK to overwhelm the pads or fluid since I'm on street tires. Pads are DS2500, which are a very aggressive street pad. The StopTech SP pads (included with the kit) didn't have this problem.

Maybe before I put the car in winter storage I'll pop the discs off and hit them with a flex-hone tool to remove anything.
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      10-11-2016, 03:53 PM   #2150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm
Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357 View Post
I wonder if this has something to do with how much pad is left. When I first put on my PFC08's they didn't squeal that much. Now that they are down to about 50%, they squeal all the time. Maybe you crossed some threshold at the track (wore them down a few more mm) so they squeal more now.

These pads are brand new. They probably had 100 street miles on them.




Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
In my experience, this is normal. Sometimes my brakes don't make much noise until they are warm.
Also, while the outside of your rotors look good, it's still possible for the inner rings of the rotors to have pad deposits or accelerated pad wear.

I recently learned from dogbone that MDM primarily uses the front brakes. This can lead to accelerated wear. For example, I had the least amount of pad meat on my inside driver's front pads. Most likely from MDM intervention on a few high speed right hand sweepers on my home track.

Are you swapping pads?

No, I haven't needed to swap. I'm not generating enough heat in the BBK to overwhelm the pads or fluid since I'm on street tires. Pads are DS2500, which are a very aggressive street pad. The StopTech SP pads (included with the kit) didn't have this problem.

Maybe before I put the car in winter storage I'll pop the discs off and hit them with a flex-hone tool to remove anything.
I think I know your problem... I'm running ds2500 in my oem rear brakes and they are very noisey.
Not at all in the front (Essex ap kit), but very much so in the rear.
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      10-11-2016, 04:06 PM   #2151
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I think I know your problem... I'm running ds2500 in my oem rear brakes and they are very noisey.
Not at all in the front (Essex ap kit), but very much so in the rear.
I used to run them on my Audi S4 and they were not noisy except in the dead of winter. They're squealing so loud right now I'm almost embarrassed to come to a stop, lol.

It doesn't happen during the entire brake pedal travel. It's only at medium pressure and in the last 10-15mph.
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      10-11-2016, 06:23 PM   #2152
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It doesn't happen during the entire brake pedal travel. It's only at medium pressure and in the last 10-15mph.
same here. doesn't bother me much because its not my dd, but the girlfriend hates it. too bad.
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      10-11-2016, 06:42 PM   #2153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
I used to run them on my Audi S4 and they were not noisy except in the dead of winter. They're squealing so loud right now I'm almost embarrassed to come to a stop, lol.

It doesn't happen during the entire brake pedal travel. It's only at medium pressure and in the last 10-15mph.
What you're describing is typical race pad characteristics. they make for lousy street pads. This light-mid pedal pressure willl cause them to squeal louder than a garbage truck. One solution is to slam on the brakes at every light. you will look funny but there will be no noise. lol.
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      10-11-2016, 06:59 PM   #2154
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I know my vids are boring without the data, but if you're bored at work and want to pretend you're at the track...
Yes, need data! Cracks me up that you always check your right side after coming out of turn 9 as if you may be surprised to find someone there before moving over.
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      10-11-2016, 07:01 PM   #2155
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
I know my vids are boring without the data, but if you're bored at work and want to pretend you're at the track...
Yes, need data! Cracks me up that you always check your right side after coming out of turn 9 as if you may be surprised to find someone there before moving over.
Lol just trying to be courteous to those that may be coming up. Trying not to be the scrub of the advanced group!
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      10-11-2016, 10:41 PM   #2156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef
Quote:
Originally Posted by okusa
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
I know my vids are boring without the data, but if you're bored at work and want to pretend you're at the track...
Yes, need data! Cracks me up that you always check your right side after coming out of turn 9 as if you may be surprised to find someone there before moving over.
Lol just trying to be courteous to those that may be coming up. Trying not to be the scrub of the advanced group!
Nah. 1:34 qualifies you for open passing.
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