Customizable JRZ Suspension Group Buy

[M3ANMACHINE]

I just pulled the trigger on the new Bomiz valvetronic exhaust through GangUp.com, and that led me to a JRZ suspension Group Buy that APEX is hosting.

I'm currently on H&R lowering springs, but really want to finish off my car with some top notch dampers. I've had KW's in the past, but have always wanted a set of JRZ's. I track the car occasionally, but it is still a street car for the foreseeable future. This Group Buy is offering by far the best pricing I've ever seen on JRZ's, or any other high end dampers for that matter, and offers an assortment of other suspension components to choose from to finish off the kit with the camber plate and assorted spring options.

Is anyone else jumping on this? Seems like a damn good opportunity.

What spring rates would you guys run for a street car that see's 3 - 4 track day's a year on extreme summer tires? Sounds like 550 front / 800 rear has been popular for this chassis, however maybe 450/700 would be better for a primarily street driven car? As mentioned, I had KW Clubsport on my previous M3 which were fine, but I felt may have been a TAD bit stiff on the street.

Any advice is appreciated!

[elim11]

roastbeef

[gmx]

Have they fixed QC issues? Are they reliable as well as nice and quiet now?

[M3ANMACHINE]

Originally Posted by gmx

Have they fixed QC issues? Are they reliable as well as nice and quiet now?

I believe so. I have heard nothing but good things about them recently...

[dogbone]

I purchased JRZ RS Pro new in 2012 for my E90 M3 that was doing dual duty street/track. Started at 450/650. It was very very mellow. Way more plush than stock suspension. As a novice driver, it was fine on track. Moved up to 600/650 for awhile. Was fine. Moved to 600-800. Was still totally fine on both street and track. In fact, I think I liked 600-800 the best. (I did have a blower on the car which added nose weight, so maybe 550 for a NA car would be good.) In 2015, at 30,000 miles and around 70 track days on the suspension, the cage went in and the car went to crazy town with gutting etc. I pulled the suspension for a rebuild. The dampers and remote canisters were still pristine on the inside. I was told it could easily have gone another year.

So, I’d say somewhere 500-600 front, and 700-800 rear is a great range to start with. It won’t be harsh because JRZ dampers are plush. And it will run great on track.

There’s no “perfect” spring rate setup. Despite what some guys try to calculate, it just does not get resolved simply by a calculation. If you’ve ever watched a race team doing setup and tuning, they bring multiple sets of springs and swap and align trackside to find out what the driver prefers——based on what he **feels**. If it was up to a calculation, they would shove the perfect spring in there and make the driver adapt. So if you want a bit mellower, maybe 500/700 is a good start. And 550/800 would not be bad either. The good thing JRZ dampers are tolerant and allow a wide range to play in and be fine.

[M3ANMACHINE]

Originally Posted by dogbone

I purchased JRZ RS Pro new in 2012 for my E90 M3 that was doing dual duty street/track. Started at 450/650. It was very very mellow. Way more plush than stock suspension. As a novice driver, it was fine on track. Moved up to 600/650 for awhile. Was fine. Moved to 600-800. Was still totally fine on both street and track. In fact, I think I liked 600-800 the best. (I did have a blower on the car which added nose weight, so maybe 550 for a NA car would be good.) In 2015, at 30,000 miles and around 70 track days on the suspension, the cage went in and the car went to crazy town with gutting etc. I pulled the suspension for a rebuild. The dampers and remote canisters were still pristine on the inside. I was told it could easily have gone another year.

So, I'd say somewhere 500-600 front, and 700-800 rear is a great range to start with. It won't be harsh because JRZ dampers are plush. And it will run great on track.

There's no "perfect" spring rate setup. Despite what some guys try to calculate, it just does not get resolved simply by a calculation. If you've ever watched a race team doing setup and tuning, they bring multiple sets of springs and swap and align trackside to find out what the driver prefers——based on what he **feels**. If it was up to a calculation, they would shove the perfect spring in there and make the driver adapt. So if you want a bit mellower, maybe 500/700 is a good start. And 550/800 would not be bad either. The good thing JRZ dampers are tolerant and allow a wide range to play in and be fine.

Great info! Thanks so much!

Leaning towards 550/800

[aus]

Do we need the front sway bar links if we have coilovers already?
Temped to get this but is it really that much better with ClubSports? Which I can get for less. Or even Ohlin R/T??
And the multiple reports of "rattle cans" is also disconcerting.
.

[M3ANMACHINE]

Originally Posted by aus

Do we need the front sway bar links if we have coilovers already?
Temped to get this but is it really that much better with ClubSports? Which I can get for less. Or even Ohlin R/T??
And the multiple reports of "rattle cans" is also disconcerting.
.

I personally believe that JRZ is superior to KW CS as well as the Ohlins.

[aus]

Originally Posted by M3ANMACHINE

I personally believe that JRZ is superior to KW CS as well as the Ohlins.

I can agree with that, but is it THAT much better?
You can get those kids around $2,400. My kit here is $3,355 without helper springs. I only track 3-4 times a year too.
Thanks for the heads up. Just made my decision a little harder.
.

[JsL]

Originally Posted by M3ANMACHINE

I personally believe that JRZ is superior to KW CS as well as the Ohlins.

JRZ probably competes with the Ohlins TTX line, not R/T.

[dogbone]

In my opinion, JRZ is more capable than the KW Clubsport line. And I believe it to offer more than the Ohlins R/T. However, you would have to go pretty far up the JRZ food chain to compare to Ohlins TTX. That is a whole different animal.

I think JRZ and MCS are in similar territory---similar offerings, similar pricing.

I invested in the RS Pro, which has the remote canisters. I do believe that the extra oil and longer oil lines do add to the plushness that I enjoy in the RS Pro. I can't comment on the plushness of the non-remote canister JRZ offerings, but I would not be surprised if it was not as plush.

I have been very impressed over the years with how the JRZ have adapted effortlessly with me as I have grown as a driver, and the car has grown into a fully dedicated car. They have never been altered or revalved to change their original performance characteristic. And the car has gone through massive changes----from a fully stock weight M3 running Hankook RS3, all the way to a gutted, caged, full aero, Pirelli slick running beast. The suspension has handled the changes without issue. That's pretty impressive as far as I'm concerned.

(I never suffered any rattle-can noise issues. I knew someone with noise issues, but ultimately, it was install related.)

[SkysTheLimit]

Are these able to be configured with stock springs?

[aus]

Originally Posted by JsL

JRZ probably competes with the Ohlins TTX line, not R/T.

NICE! Good to know. I just don't think I'm capable of using them to their full potential. But now you're tell me I can get 20% off suspension that's comparable to TTX line!
dogbone's post is really impressive for the JRZ.
But deep down I know the KW CS or R/T is more than I need.
.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by SkysTheLimit

Are these able to be configured with stock springs?

You would not run stock springs with JRZ. First of all, you set basic height of the car with the length of the spring. Removing that ability is unnecessarily tying your hands behind your back.

On the front, JRZ requires a 2.25" Internal Diameter spring for the lower spring perch. (The JRZ top mount requires 2.25" as well.). And the damper looks to work with linear springs. I don't think the stock spring can accommodate those requirements. Plus the Outer Diameter of the stock spring is enormous. Part of the beauty of the JRZ system is that it works with a narrow spring which allows you to run fatter rims and tires.

In the rear, again, the height adjuster (that is very nice) requires a 2.25" ID linear spring.

There's nothing special about the stock springs. Just get the right parts.

[ApexWheels]

Thank you for jumping in to give your respected feedback Gabe, the answers you have provided are spot on. I have watched your car morph over the years from a double duty sedan that can quickly haul kids to soccer practice to a no compromise track weapon, and it is very valuable for readers to know that your JRZ suspension has kept up in the process.

550 front / 800 rear (600 front / 800 rear is also popular) are the spring rates we officially recommend for E9X M3 double duty enthusiasts, which is also known as our "level II spring package", but as you mentioned spring rates ultimately depend on a number of variables. Our recommended spring packages are a good benchmark, however, we stock just about every Hyperco spring rate and length from 5" to 9" for those looking to configure there own custom spring package. Since race springs are very inexpensive, it is very common for track rats/racers to experiment with a variety of spring rates to see what works best for their chassis and driving style. As your chassis setup and driving skills accelerate over time, different springs rates can as well to ensure you are getting the most out of your motorsport grade dampers.

For readers who have more questions about JRZ suspension, here is an article I wrote during last months JRZ Group Buy for the E36/E46/Z3 & Z4M crowd which maxed out to the top discount tier.



”What makes JRZ so special, and which damper from their RS Line is best for me?”

Since APEX first released these custom suspension packages built around JRZ RS dampers, these have been the two most prominent questions proposed to our Product Experts. This is usually followed up with, “what spring rates, rear shock mounts and other accessories should I choose”.

As car enthusiasts we all share a passion for a specific marque, but often times that is where common ground ends. Even within our tight knit team of car enthusiasts here at APEX, it is clear that these cars are enjoyed in different ways, and we each have different goals, opinions, and expectations on how a car should or shouldn't be modified. This sentiment has stuck with APEX over the last 10+ years, and has been a driving force behind offering the community a wide array of wheel fitments that specifically met the diverse performance and budgetary needs of our customers. Forcing limited “cookie cutter” wheel fitments onto a diverse audience meant compromises would have to be made along the way, and that was quickly something that APEX navigated away from. In more recent years, this theme continues with our suspension solutions.

APEX hand picked race proven suspension components from three industry-leading manufacturers to create fully customizable coilover packages, and with JRZ’s 60+ years of experience in development and production of Motorsport grade dampers, we knew the JRZ RS line would provide our customers with the right foundation for each configured kit.

Back to the Basics

Before we dive into the details and differences of JRZ RS dampers available to us, let's review some basic suspension principles at a high level. In order to make an informed purchase decision, it is important to have a general understanding of the different components that make up a coilover, as well as the job of supporting suspension components. This is best explained by Motorsport guru Jay O’connell featured in the SAFEisFAST series, and we’ve compiled cliff notes below.

1. Springs

• Springs are the load bearing device essentially keeping the car off the ground
• Spring rate is the measure of how stiff the springs are, or how much force it takes to deflect them a certain distance
• There are many factors contributing to choosing the right springs rates, but the primary factor is that you need springs stiff enough to hold the car off the ground under the aerodynamic loads it sees
• Ideally you would run the softest springs you can get away with. The softer the springs, generally the more grip you can get out of the tires - Just stiff enough for the aerodynamic load that your car sees
• Higher spring rates where the speeds are high and there is more aerodynamic forces at play (track configuration and whether or not a car has aero)
• Softer spring rates where the speeds are quite low and there is less aerodynamic forces at play (track configuration and whether or not a car has aero)

2. Dampers (Shock absorbers)

• The dampers main job is to control the release of energy that is stored in the spring due to the weight on them. They are the most important component for controlling the mass and movement of the car so that you can get as much grip out of the tires as possible
• When a car drives over uneven surfaces all the energy in the compressed spring wants to come out fast, so the dampers job is to control that release of energy so that the car does not have a big response by the bump. We want to minimize the drama!
• Uncontrolled motion from worn out shock absorbers will take away from grip - upsetting the car

3. Damper Adjustments

• Rebound - Controlling the energy release out of the springs when the wheel & tire move away from the body - shock is expanding
• Compression/Bump - Controlling the movement of the wheel & tire moving up into the body/suspension - shock is contracting

4. Bump Stops

• In place to protect the dampers from the suspension running out of the travel or bottoming out. With these in place, you can feel a little more comfortable running a lower ride height without stiffening the springs because the bumps will “catch the car” before they hit. With that said, you do not want to be riding on the bump stops, as this indicates the car is running out of travel.

5. Anti-roll Bar

• The main function is to reduce chassis roll. If you can reduce chassis role, you can maintain the camber angles of the tire in relation to the ground to give you more grip throughout the lap. It’s a quick way to tune the balance of the car
• Stiffening the front anti-roll bar you will get more understeer
• Stiffening the rear anti-roll bar you will get more oversteer
• If the car is understeering, the first thing to do is to soften the front anti-roll bar to get some grip back into the front tires. Conversely, you could stiffen the rear anti-roll bars and take some grip away from the rear, but now you are just hurting the end that is already well hooked up. Generally you want to fix/tune the end of the car that has the problem first.
• With each understeer/oversteer condition, there are multiple ways to fix it. You typically start with anti-roll bars, however you can then get into spring rates, damper settings and rake and that is when things can get somewhat complicated. Adjustments to correct a problem may cause a new problem to rear its head.

Moving in the Right Direction - JRZ RS Dampers

Quite often aftermarket suspensions targeted at car enthusiasts are not actually improving the handling capabilities of your vehicle. There’s never a shortage of “lower grade” dampers or coilover packages on the market disguised in enticing packaging with fancy marketing, so it is important to know the genetic makeup of what you are buying. When I ask customers to identify some of the key features they would like out of their new suspension, height adjustability is commonly the first answer. The ability to adjust vehicle ride height is desirable for a few reasons beyond getting rid of that unsightly wheel gap, however this is a standard feature of any coilover design and you owe it to yourself to set the bar much higher.

Premium grade coilovers are designed around quality dampers built for a specific operating range of spring rates, and these two components are co-developed to ensure maximum control over the vehicle's movement while it negotiates uneven road/track surfaces. The end goal is to reduce drama transmitted to the chassis, prevent loss of tire traction / maximize grip, and to keep things consistent and predictable for the driver. This is not to be confused with a suspension that is overly stiff - a common misconception amongst car enthusiasts. Needless to say, not all coilover packages are created equal.

The JRZ RS-Line is hand built on the same production line as their ($8,000+) red motorsport-grade dampers. The build quality and attention to detail is second to none, and this is apparent from the moment you open the box and begin to handle the components. Every piece is anodized, leaving no uncoated corrosion-prone surfaces. Because the dampers are made by hand, each and every set is reviewed by a craftsman/craftswoman to ensure consistent quality, and personally signed off before making its way to you.

• Performance & Comfort - A unique compression blow-off system is used to filter out large, high-velocity bumps you’d typically experience on rough streets or when attacking a berm on the race track using lower-end coilovers.
  
  
• Longevity - The shaft bearing has been upgraded for extended life between service intervals and to facilitate easier rebuilds. When you finally do need a refresh, JRZ has two partner service centers in the USA that can complete all necessary work.
  
  
• CNC Machining - The JRZ RS Line dampers use CNC machined internals that allow precise damping characteristics to be achieved. RS dampers are built on the same production line as the Motorsport line.
  
  
• Strut Coating - The McPherson struts from JRZ are made from high tensile steel to cope with the extreme side loads transferred from wheel to damper. JRZ applies a specialty black coating that is highly corrosion resistant, sourced from a cutting-edge supplier.
  
  
• Feel The Change - Damper adjustments are highly intuitive compared to other brands. Each "click" of adjustment is felt with high precision not only by your fingers as you adjust rebound and compression settings, but also to the driver as the car is put through its paces. If you geek out over suspension like we do, this makes experimenting and dialing in your JRZ suspension a bit of fun.

The Golden Question - To What Degree do you Want to Tune Your Suspension?

Through conversing with a broad spectrum of customers, this is the major fork in the road. We can all agree that we would like our aftermarket dampers to significantly improve the handling characteristics of our vehicle, but to what degree are you willing and able to fine tune your dampers to optimize results given your vehicle setup, intended use, driving style etc.? Since dampers are the centerpiece to any high performing suspension package, it is important to lay everything out on the table before making a decision. What are your long-term goals for the car? Do you desire to compete in a form of class racing or time trials where the governing body imposes restrictions and guidelines? These are things to consider to ensure you are satisfied with your purchase in the long run.

I want to be clear that all JRZ RS dampers are very capable, and with the right supporting suspension components and chassis alignment they will dramatically improve the driver's ability to control the vehicle. The question is, how involved do you want to be? As we move through the different RS dampers available, each increases your ability to fine tune the suspension in a more granular way. The ability to externally modify damping characteristics is a desirable feature, particularly for those in continuous pursuit of improving lap times or beating out the competition. These enthusiasts and racers alike will go through the effort of adjusting rebound, compression and even external reservoir nitrogen pressure to compensate for tire wear, variations in track surfaces leading to poor or inconsistent levels of grip, and even in some instances driver errors.

RS ONE - Single Adjustable Dampers


The RS ONE is a single adjustable damper with 21 precise clicks of adjustment and valving capable of handling a broad range of spring rates. Through the twist of one knob, JRZ strikes a balance of adjusting both rebound and compression together. Moving between comfortable street use, aggressive track mode, or anything in between has never been easier. The RS ONE design minimizes complexity, while still providing a significant increase in performance. If you are not the type of enthusiast to explore different spring rates, alignment settings or other chassis setup features on a continuous basis, and prefer to get a capable suspension as close to “set it and forget it” as possible, the RS ONE dampers are the perfect solution.

RS TWO - Double Adjustable Dampers


The RS TWO is a double adjustable non-remote damper which offers independent compression and rebound adjustment. Having both compression and rebound adjustability independent from one another allows users to make more precise inputs to find the balance they are looking for. The RS TWO has 21 precise clicks of rebound adjustment controlled by a knob positioned at the top of the strut, and 14 precise clicks of compression controlled by a knob positioned at the bottom of the strut.

Whether you are interested in getting slightly more involved in the suspension tuning process from the get-go, or ensuring you have the option to get more granular with suspension adjustments as you become a more experienced driver, the RS TWO has you covered without the added complexity of external reservoirs.

RS PRO - Double Adjustable Dampers


The RS PRO is a double adjustable damper which incorporates championship winning external reservoirs for maximum control. Like the RS TWO, compression and rebound adjustments are made independently from one another, allowing enthusiasts to calibrate their suspension from compliant street mode to taking the checkered flag. The RS PRO has 21 precise clicks of rebound adjustment controlled by a knob positioned at the top of the strut, and 14 precise clicks of compression controlled by a knob located on the external reservoir.

If you are a suspension geek, serious track junky or competitive racer, the RS PRO is an extremely effective weapon. These dampers and external reservoirs are aimed at enthusiasts who will take the time to explore and document a variety of spring rates, alignment settings and other chassis setup features all in the name of pushing their cars and their skills to the limits. The value added from the external reservoirs is listed in the "remote reservoir" section below.

RS PRO 3 - Triple Adjustable Dampers


The RS PRO 3 is JRZ’s flagship triple adjustable damper for the RS line, which incorporates championship winning external reservoirs for maximum control. The RS PRO 3 has 21 precise clicks of rebound adjustment controlled by a knob positioned at the top of the strut. It also has 14 precise clicks of high speed compression and 8 precise clicks of low speed compression, both controlled by knobs located on the external reservoir.

Independently tuning high and low speed compression allows track junkies and competitive racers alike to get the absolute most out of their suspension. Double adjustable suspensions do not allow users to isolate and control high and low speed compression damping. Low speed compression controls the speed at which the suspension compresses while the car negotiates small bumps, and prevents wallowing. High speed compression controls the speed at which the the suspension compresses while the car negotiates quick or abrupt movements, like hopping berms or drastic changes in the road surface.

Although more adjustments can add a level of complexity to the end user, it is important to note that you can set low speed compression to full stiff, and the damper will now behave the same as the RS PRO double adjustable suspension. As you develop the car over time and become more familiar with fine tuning the suspension, you can then make adjustments to the low speed compression to find the perfect balance for your specific track surface(s). The RS PRO 3 is the ticket for hard core track enthusiast and competitive racers looking for any and every available edge over the competition. The value added from the external reservoirs is listed below.

Remote Reservoirs - Applicable to RS PRO & RS PRO 3
External reservoirs significantly increase performance capabilities by providing more fluid displacement and increased cooling capacity. Track enthusiasts and racers push their cars to the limits, and external reservoirs are one of the key ingredients to consistent damping performance from the starting line to the checkered flag. The nitrogen pressure within the external reservoir can also be adjusted between 150 - 350 PSI; a key feature for track and race enthusiasts looking to fine tune their suspension to the highest degree.

Lines to each reservoir are long enough to comfortably mount them under the hood and trunk in a cool location that’s easily accessible. For a painless installation, all PRO kits come with front quick disconnect lines.



Some enthusiasts within the BMW community have years of experience and seat time under their belt, and with good information available to them, they are able to digest it with relative ease and make good purchase decisions. For many others it can be information overload, and therefore we recommend having a one on one consultation with an APEX Product Specialist to further discuss personal goals, expectations and budget. We may not have all the answers, but working closely with JRZ, Ground Control and Hyperco allows our staff to deliver top-notch customer support, pre and post purchase. Keep in mind, configuring a suspension package and installing it on your vehicle is only half the battle. To get the most out of your new purchase, you’ll want to know that experts are there to support your efforts along the way.

- Ryan

[roastbeef]

are there differences in springs to the extent where, lets pretend, a 10" spring with 500lbs of spring rate has a different number of coils than another identical length and weight of spring?

also, how much does length of the remote reservoir hose effect response and function? is a couple extra feet relatively irrelevant? is the oil relatively resistant to being compressed?

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by ApexRaceParts

Thank you for jumping in to give your respected feedback Gabe, the answers you have provided are spot on. I have watched your car morph over the years from a double duty sedan that can quickly haul kids to soccer practice to a no compromise track weapon, and it is very valuable for readers to know that your JRZ suspension has kept up in the process.

......

Some enthusiasts within the BMW community have years of experience and seat time under their belt, and with good information available to them, they are able to digest it with relative ease and make good purchase decisions. For many others it can be information overload, and therefore we recommend having a one on one consultation with an APEX Product Specialist to further discuss personal goals, expectations and budget. We may not have all the answers, but working closely with JRZ, Ground Control and Hyperco allows our staff to deliver top-notch customer support, pre and post purchase. Keep in mind, configuring a suspension package and installing it on your vehicle is only half the battle. To get the most out of your new purchase, you’ll want to know that experts are there to support your efforts along the way.

- Ryan

Hi Ryan.

I'm really glad to see ApexRaceParts on the forum supporting the JRZ product with this kind of information.

To anyone considering JRZ, I highly recommend you pursue more information via a one-on-one consultation. Back in 2012, this kind of info just wasn't out there. Wish it was. I spent so much time scratching around digging for information.

[VictorH]

As with all aftermarket applications, this like anything else needs to be considered for the application.

I have been running a JRZ suspension on my E90 M3 since approximately 2011. I have over 90,000 continuous miles on the system(s). My application is my daily driver street car and 3-6 times per year weekend track vehicle (no trailers for me). I have 135,000 miles on my car and just rebuilt the whole front end at 110,000 miles as a precaution (excluding steering rack).

Here are my observations: The JRZ customer service has uniformly been excellent, however, over the years I have had a number of issues. I started with the RS1 single adjustable shock which had more problems than can be described here. This set went back and forth a couple of times and then JRZ substituted a new set of the RS-2 double adjustable shocks and struts.

The JRZ double adjustable has been amazing when relatively new but after 11,000 to 13,000 miles the struts in particular would start making all sorts of interesting noises. This is mostly a low-speed (less than 30 mph) phenomenon which includes noises such as popping, creaking, groaning, banging and other noises. Basically it makes the front of your car sound like the front of the car is about to fall off. I’m so experienced with these noises the JRZ guys don’t even ask me if it could be another source anymore. Give a friend or colleague a ride and they ask, “Is your car alright?” Pedestrians walking next to your car can hear the sounds as well.

JRZ has recently redesigned their double adjustable system. I am now running their Version 2 struts and shocks. The shocks got a minor modification but the struts got a somewhat major revision. JRZ will not tell you what exactly they did in their redesign but it’s supposed to fix the issues they’ve had in the E9x application. They are aware of the symptoms that I describe above and have been working on fixes for years. What I note with this new version is that at low shock settings, for the street, the compliance of the shocks is substantially better.

I can’t comment on durability as I only have about 3,000 miles on this new version and unfortunately my last two track sessions got cancelled for different reasons (WGI & VIR). What I’ve always liked about the JRZ system is the on-track performance and adjustability is fantastic. I’ve had an ex-pro race driver tune my suspension and he liked it much stiffer than I was used to tracking my car. Nonetheless after it was tuned to his liking I still had at least 6 clicks of additional rebound and even more compression adjustment available. Basically these shocks and struts will run from pretty reasonably soft to hard as rocks (never run them that stiff). I’m hoping that this is the long-term fix for durability but it’s still unknown.

Most of the noise problems I’ve had didn’t affect track performance at all, but when you’re driving to work or going in and out of parking lots it can drive you a bit crazy. Keeping fingers crossed that this final fix will do the trick.

This is only one person's experience, not a collection so be advised it doesn't represent the universe of JRZ applications.

[aus]

That noise is what's really holding me back, especially when there are other options with proven track record for durability.

[M3ANMACHINE]

Originally Posted by aus

That noise is what's really holding me back, especially when there are other options with proven track record for durability.

To my knowledge the noise issues have been resolved with the latest damper update

[kyippee]

I am trying to figure out if JRZ RS One, with level 2 550/800 springs, street camber plates, 4x helper springs, street (yellow) rear shock mounts, and end links are appropriate for my use. I'm not interested in many variables of adjustment and prefer to reduce complexity.

I don't drive daily, and don't drive on street often.. but I do. Doing ~2 HPDE days a month, not doing any real racing. Don't have aftermarket rear sway bar, just dinan front sway. Does this feel like a good choice? Or just go with Ohlins R&T + different springs + camber plates?

[M3ANMACHINE]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

I am trying to figure out if JRZ RS One, with level 2 550/800 springs, street camber plates, 4x helper springs, street (yellow) rear shock mounts, and end links are appropriate for my use. I'm not interested in many variables of adjustment and prefer to reduce complexity.

I don't drive daily, and don't drive on street often.. but I do. Doing ~2 HPDE days a month, not doing any real racing. Don't have aftermarket rear sway bar, just dinan front sway. Does this feel like a good choice? Or just go with Ohlins R&T + different springs + camber plates?

That setup sounds about right to me.

I think the Ohlins might be the right choice if you were DD'ing the car, but for a weekend and occasional HPDE car, i think the JRZ will be better.