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      09-29-2019, 09:17 AM   #10385
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Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
towing capacity on those appears to be 5k... might be a little slim.
I don't recall why it's 5k but in the EU it's 6k with all the same OEM parts. The aftermarket hitches seem to be more capable while retaining most of the rear crash protection structures.
EU can sometimes be in Kilos.
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      09-29-2019, 07:32 PM   #10386
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U want to have a good margin between towing capacity and the weight you're pulling. Figure u have a bunch of extra weight besides the car too (tools/fuel/wheels &tires). IMO 5-6k is not enough IMO. U also need to take wheelbase into consideration, the longer the better.

I have a GC EcoDiesel, it's rated at 7200. I believe the Hemi v8 is the same. If that helps.
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      09-29-2019, 08:11 PM   #10387
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U want to have a good margin between towing capacity and the weight you're pulling. Figure u have a bunch of extra weight besides the car too (tools/fuel/wheels &tires). IMO 5-6k is not enough IMO. U also need to take wheelbase into consideration, the longer the better.

I have a GC EcoDiesel, it's rated at 7200. I believe the Hemi v8 is the same. If that helps.
just to confirm- you have a grand cherokee? do you tow with it?

mrs beef does like those, but i'm a little leery of the cherokees.
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      09-29-2019, 08:13 PM   #10388
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I wouldn’t bother with another aftermarket bar after having a failure. Put a stock bar back in and run it.

Or run no rear sway bar for extra rotation. ;-)
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      09-29-2019, 08:16 PM   #10389
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So my coach strongly advised me to get extended studs (ARP) and open steel lug nuts, ones that are long enough to grab by hand and that have lots of threads.

Would something like this be right?
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/part...8-20/overview/

http://www.gorilla-auto.com/racing-lugs
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      09-29-2019, 10:26 PM   #10390
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Originally Posted by dparm View Post
So my coach strongly advised me to get extended studs (ARP) and open steel lug nuts, ones that are long enough to grab by hand and that have lots of threads.

Would something like this be right?
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/part...8-20/overview/

http://www.gorilla-auto.com/racing-lugs
I'm curious the benefit of the longer nuts specifically?
I personally use the nuts from KATech. They're a 12-pt pattern and you can get them in titanium. I would agree with the ARP recommendation on the studs.

https://store.katechengines.com/tita...15mm-p490.aspx
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      09-29-2019, 11:07 PM   #10391
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I'm curious the benefit of the longer nuts specifically?
I personally use the nuts from KATech. They're a 12-pt pattern and you can get them in titanium. I would agree with the ARP recommendation on the studs.

https://store.katechengines.com/tita...15mm-p490.aspx

More threads and also a lot easier to grab with your hand. My wheels have a really deep center:

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      09-30-2019, 06:45 AM   #10392
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Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
just to confirm- you have a grand cherokee? do you tow with it?

mrs beef does like those, but i'm a little leery of the cherokees.
Correct.

I've towed a boat, but I don't regularly tow. I'm an arrive and drive guy.


I haven't had any issues with mine, it's been a good vehicle.
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      09-30-2019, 07:30 AM   #10393
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the real edge cases are when people try to tow long, tall trailers with short wheelbase, soft spring, passenger tire shod vehicles imo. p-code tires need to be inflated to max pressure just to get to the stability you get from an e-code tire, air suspension isn’t a substitute for an axle weight rating, etc.

You need at least 120” of wheelbase to tow even the smallest typical enclosed car haulers safely in bad winds because they blown around so much. There are exceptions of course But for an open trailer you can’t really screw up too badly if you stay within the tow rating
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      09-30-2019, 08:55 AM   #10394
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48' trailer

A few weeks ago I had to use this 48 foot trailer as the typical 28 footer was being used by some others. Luckily my 2017 F350 came prepared for a goose neck trailer. Popped the ball hitch in the middle of the pickup bed and good to go. The first corner I was up on the curb and almost took out the stop sign but from there on it was smooth sailing. Very easy towing with this truck. Keep in mind the truck and trailer is over 60 feet in length!!!
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      09-30-2019, 09:53 AM   #10395
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That thing is a monster!
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      09-30-2019, 11:11 AM   #10396
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BTW, to anyone going to MSR Cresson this weekend, Scott Adams will be available on Sunday for coaching!
How'd the coaching go? What did you learn?
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      09-30-2019, 11:48 AM   #10397
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lol at first I thought that was a pic of you hitting a low bridge - been there barely missed that
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      09-30-2019, 11:58 AM   #10398
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Quick question, we've probably already discussed it in here but is anyone running 11" square with 285/30/18 or is it a lost cause up front?? slicer ??
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      09-30-2019, 12:02 PM   #10399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
just to confirm- you have a grand cherokee? do you tow with it?

mrs beef does like those, but i'm a little leery of the cherokees.
almost owned a Hemi Grand Cherokee after owning the bigger brother Hemi RAM. Would have made nice DD towing capable SUV. but I ended up with a Mustang instead haha. They're good value though and the Hemi GC typically is only available in the higher optioned cars so the interior will be nice for your wife.

My mom tows her horse and trailer currently with her Supercharged Range Rover and gets along fine as well. Previously she used her Denali/Tahoe which are good too but all pretty expensiveeeee options.
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      09-30-2019, 12:04 PM   #10400
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lol at first I thought that was a pic of you hitting a low bridge - been there barely missed that
Ha ha! I didn't even think of that. But it's not too tall. I don't know the exact height but it's just a bit taller than normal so that two BMWs can be loaded with tires up above the cars.
*basically you plan your entire trip. Know where you are going and plan every fuel stop. No impromptu stops. Truck stops only. Luckily this truck has a 48 gallon tank.
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      09-30-2019, 12:08 PM   #10401
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A few weeks ago I had to use this 48 foot trailer as the typical 28 footer was being used by some others. Luckily my 2017 F350 came prepared for a goose neck trailer. Popped the ball hitch in the middle of the pickup bed and good to go. The first corner I was up on the curb and almost took out the stop sign but from there on it was smooth sailing. Very easy towing with this truck. Keep in mind the truck and trailer is over 60 feet in length!!!
Oh. At the time the trailer had only one car, three sets of wheels/tires, two 55 gallon drums of 100 octane, my tools, my engineers Snapon tool chest and miscellaneous supplies. I'm not sure of the weight but was the first time I used more than half throttle going up a steep incline.
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      09-30-2019, 05:48 PM   #10402
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Quick question, we've probably already discussed it in here but is anyone running 11" square with 285/30/18 or is it a lost cause up front?? slicer ??
What is your suspension setup, and what tire compound are you looking to run?

18x10.5" ET22 square is a great, versatile wheel setup for E9X M3 track enthusiasts. The 10.5" wheels are relatively easy to fit under the E9X fenders and they can support all the popular tire sizes (275/35-18, 285/30-18, 285/35-18 & 295/30-18).

All it takes is a wheel with the right offset (ET20 - ET22 is the sweet spot IMO), negative camber (which is considered a must regardless of wheel fitment) and a compliant suspension configuration (KW, Ohlins and some others would require modification as they take up too much inner clearance).

An 18x11" square setup is certainly possible, however, I would only go through the effort if you plan to run a wide 295/30-18 or 315/30-18 compound where the added sidewall support comes into play. Aside from a healthy amount of camber, you will want a suspension in place with a slimmer strut body like JRZ or MCS, and you'll typically want 5" main springs without helpers to get that lower spring perch up above the front tires.

- Ryan
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      09-30-2019, 05:53 PM   #10403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeBMW View Post
A few weeks ago I had to use this 48 foot trailer as the typical 28 footer was being used by some others. Luckily my 2017 F350 came prepared for a goose neck trailer. Popped the ball hitch in the middle of the pickup bed and good to go. The first corner I was up on the curb and almost took out the stop sign but from there on it was smooth sailing. Very easy towing with this truck. Keep in mind the truck and trailer is over 60 feet in length!!!
I like how you got Eddie in the shot cranking the jacks up. Probably the only real work he did all week :P
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      09-30-2019, 06:01 PM   #10404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelse92 View Post
Quick question, we've probably already discussed it in here but is anyone running 11" square with 285/30/18 or is it a lost cause up front?? slicer ??
Someone posted in this thread very recently about that setup with the Nankangs. It BARELY cleared. Try looking back a few pages.
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      09-30-2019, 06:12 PM   #10405
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has anyone weight their full bodied m3 on an open aluminum trailer? mrs beef is looking at cars and i'm thinking we might be able to get some suv that we could tow the m3 with. problem is, there are tons of mid size suv's that tow around 5-6,000 lbs. cayennes can do 7,200.
i know the more the better, but what's the minimum?
For a full bodied M3 on an open aluminum trailer I would say 6k at the very bare minimum. Something like a 17.5' Featherlite is ~ 1700lbs. ~3800lbs E9x and you are already at 5500lbs. That's without tires, fuel, gear, etc. With an SUV you might end up having to carry all that on the trailer - so need to factor that in as well & maybe a rack or something to carry it. With a pickup you might be able to carry it all in the bed - would need to check GVWR and all that good stuff as well. With 6k capacity that is really cutting it close. I personally like to have a little room to spare under the capacity - but certainly that is not always possible.

If you haven't considered one a crew cab pickup can be an excellent daily driver. 1/2 tons ride well & are very versatile especially if you have a lockable bed cover. SUVs can certainly be capable too though if they have enough capacity.

For an open trailer I personally would want some kind of rack that holds tires and has locking boxes. Being able to lock everything up and mostly out of eyesight is awesome - especially if you overnight at a hotel or something similar. Certainly they can be broken into as well - but when all your tools & junk are not sitting exposed in the back of an SUV they are not quite as tempting. Also makes loading & unloading much quicker if you can keep the trailer stocked.

I started with a 20' open Featherlite - awesome trailer. Was in the process of building a rack for it when I decided to move to an enclosed trailer instead. The open trailer was definitely plenty to cover a full weekend at the track though.
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      09-30-2019, 06:17 PM   #10406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexRaceParts View Post
What is your suspension setup, and what tire compound are you looking to run?

18x10.5" ET22 square is a great, versatile wheel setup for E9X M3 track enthusiasts. The 10.5" wheels are relatively easy to fit under the E9X fenders and they can support all the popular tire sizes (275/35-18, 285/30-18, 285/35-18 & 295/30-18).

All it takes is a wheel with the right offset (ET22 preferably), negative camber (which is considered a must regardless of wheel fitment) and a compliant suspension configuration (KW, Ohlins and some others would require modification as they take up too much inner clearance).

- Ryan
Well everything is in process of transitioning this fall, but most likely going to the KW with the shorter front spring to help clearance. I'm not against rolling fenders at all if I Have to, but would rather not.
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