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      12-07-2015, 01:52 AM   #67
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I reckon you are pretty safe but for a good piece of mind have your engine oil analysed when you chance it.
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      12-07-2015, 04:14 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashprash View Post
Got a 2012 with 10k on the clock and wondering if and when i need to do this.
Problem is, no one knows. All year models have had the issue and engines have blown with as little as 6k miles......others last to 200k plus. Odds are you'll be fine.....until you're not
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      12-07-2015, 04:48 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Doc Oc View Post
Problem is, no one knows. All year models have had the issue and engines have blown with as little as 6k miles......others last to 200k plus. Odds are you'll be fine.....until you're not
If you are keeping the car long term I would treat the crank to a new set of bearings sooner than later but at 10k you should have plenty of buffer
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      12-09-2015, 06:13 PM   #70
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Ok.... my Blackstone oil analysis is back and it's not good. Lead and copper are both almost 3 times the universal average!! Looks like I'll be following Dave's lead and getting these done ASAP!
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      12-09-2015, 06:24 PM   #71
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park that bitch up until then Stu
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      12-10-2015, 07:49 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ingenio View Post
Ok.... my Blackstone oil analysis is back and it's not good. Lead and copper are both almost 3 times the universal average!! Looks like I'll be following Dave's lead and getting these done ASAP!
Stu, new bearings are out. Be the first here:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...95&postcount=1
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      12-10-2015, 07:53 AM   #73
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Thanks Kamar.... bought them a couple of hours ago! :-) now just rounding up the other associated parts...
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      12-10-2015, 11:37 AM   #74
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What were the lead and copper numbers?
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      12-10-2015, 05:30 PM   #75
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Lead was 23 (Universal Average = 8) and Copper was 10 (Universal Average = 3).

The UA is always based on an oil sample after 9k of use... mine had done only 3k! (unless the dealer lied on the service invoice which I don't think they did).
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      12-10-2015, 05:44 PM   #76
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Well that's not what you want...wouldn't drive it much. Curious to see what they look like when you get them out.
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      12-10-2015, 10:18 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Advan performance in Sydney quote ~ $2500

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.p...66170870075071
OK, so I contacted these guys to get the ball rolling (as I survived the Track Season and am keen to go into 2016 without anxiety) and it turns out that they made an error in the post. It's not $2,500 as reported on the post (which has now been changed), it's actually $3,500.



Anyway, just an FYI for anyone in Sydney.
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      12-10-2015, 10:52 PM   #78
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Ouch! That's quite an error!
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      12-10-2015, 10:58 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Rocket_Rod View Post
OK, so I contacted these guys to get the ball rolling (as I survived the Track Season and am keen to go into 2016 without anxiety) and it turns out that they made an error in the post. It's not $2,500 as reported on the post (which has now been changed), it's actually $3,500.



Anyway, just an FYI for anyone in Sydney.
Alastair at Bromspec Motorworks in Brookvale will charge $1100.00 in labour costs plus consumables. Alastair is also an M3 owner and drives a supercharged E92 M3 and has had experience with RB replacements

I can supply VAC CT-1 coated bearings and ARP Rod bolts for around $1450 including GST. Oil I can get for $17.50 per litre/

$3500 is too high all up is should be around $2800
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      12-10-2015, 11:40 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by DaveDee View Post
Alastair at Bromspec Motorworks in Brookvale will charge $1100.00 in labour costs plus consumables. Alastair is also an M3 owner and drives a supercharged E92 M3 and has had experience with RB replacements

I can supply VAC CT-1 coated bearings and ARP Rod bolts for around $1450 including GST. Oil I can get for $17.50 per litre/

$3500 is too high all up is should be around $2800
They include the following for the $3,500 price:
Bearing & Rods
engine oil
engine oil filter
brake fluid
engine mounts
wheel alignment
dyno check

Brookvale is the other side of town.....
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      12-11-2015, 04:17 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket_Rod View Post
They include the following for the $3,500 price:
Bearing & Rods
engine oil
engine oil filter
brake fluid
engine mounts
wheel alignment
dyno check

Brookvale is the other side of town.....
Rod, what are these rods?
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      12-11-2015, 05:47 AM   #82
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Do they mean bolts?
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      12-11-2015, 09:57 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by Ingenio View Post
Do they mean bolts?
Yes, sorry
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      12-12-2015, 05:22 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by Rocket_Rod View Post
Yes, sorry
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      01-22-2016, 01:52 PM   #85
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Guys - I believe a mid 2011 model (that I am looking at buying) will have the newer Tin/Aluminium bearings?

Were these introduced by BMW to attempt to resolve this issue?
Does the Tin/Aluminium wear show up on oil analysis as well as the older type?
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      01-22-2016, 05:55 PM   #86
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In short... nope. My understanding is that wear on these new bearings is much harder to detect through oil analysis as (I presume) these metals are not unique within the engine. There are plenty of posts on the US forums about this from memory...
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      01-23-2016, 12:02 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket_Rod View Post
OK, so I contacted these guys to get the ball rolling (as I survived the Track Season and am keen to go into 2016 without anxiety) and it turns out that they made an error in the post. It's not $2,500 as reported on the post (which has now been changed), it's actually $3,500.



Anyway, just an FYI for anyone in Sydney.
Thanks Rod.
Coincidently I spoke to Peter the other day about this and he told me over the phone it was about a 2500 dollar job too, then I noticed their pricing on the FB page. Seems odd.

Dave - Thanks for the Bromspec tip! I am in Lane Cove so they are a 15 minute drive from here
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      01-29-2016, 05:37 PM   #88
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I just put my my10 e90 in yesterday for a set of the new bebearings from the states. Mike weber in brisbane are doing the work and fingers crossed all goes well. I also used stock rod bolts as there are concerns with arp bolts out of round. Will let you know the outcome.
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