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12-08-2012, 03:09 PM | #1 |
2018 track days - 0 ridge 1:52:24 pacific 1:33:30
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wanted DIY OEM rotor removal
looks like a pretty easy job as i change pads all the time. just wondering if there is a DIY for rotor replacement or any tricks i needed to know. Have Turner stud kit so will have to pull those and replace into new hat. thanks
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12-09-2012, 09:24 PM | #2 |
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There aren't any real tricks, but I'd recommend a couple of things:
- remove the set screws before you remove the calipers otherwise you won't have anything to stop the rotors from turning when you try to remove these screws. - make sure to disengage parking brake when actually removing the rear rotors |
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12-09-2012, 09:36 PM | #3 |
2018 track days - 0 ridge 1:52:24 pacific 1:33:30
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okay thanks. those are both good tips.
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12-17-2012, 11:04 PM | #4 |
2018 track days - 0 ridge 1:52:24 pacific 1:33:30
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anyone find one i still havent.
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12-18-2012, 10:55 AM | #7 |
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I'm also wondering about wheel bearings. My guess is that removal of the rotor gives easy access for their replacement. Not sure if I need it yet at 27K but there have track miles
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01-17-2013, 11:11 PM | #8 |
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The removal of the rotor is pretty easy once you have the caliber off. Just put some wd40 into the center if the rotor is stuck, then just use a mallet to hit the rotor from behind as you rotate the rotor, and it should come off. It's pretty straight forward. Hope this helps.
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01-17-2013, 11:19 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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01-18-2013, 09:45 AM | #11 |
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Removal of front and rear are straightforward. You may need to use a hammer with the screwdriver to remove the set screw depending on how old your brakes are. Also, the rotors may be hard to remove due to rust. A good plastic mallet will help here. Otherwise, removal is the same as any other car.
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01-18-2013, 10:34 AM | #12 |
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Went to change them out last night but still have 28.5 to 28.7 left so gonna wait a few more track days and change em out in the spring.
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02-13-2013, 08:01 AM | #13 |
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What is the minimal rotor thickness before needing to replace? (StopTechs)
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02-17-2013, 10:08 AM | #14 |
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02-18-2013, 10:22 AM | #15 | |
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02-18-2013, 02:21 PM | #16 |
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I think this was more-so directed at removing the rotor. Sometimes they get stuck on and you need to pry them off with a screw driver or 'motivate' them with some shots from a deadblow hammer. When trying to get the rotor loose stand clear as best you can because you don't want the rotor landing in your foot.
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02-18-2013, 02:54 PM | #17 | |
2018 track days - 0 ridge 1:52:24 pacific 1:33:30
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Quote:
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02-18-2013, 03:25 PM | #18 |
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no, the screws are there only to hold the rotor onto the hub. Thats it. On cars with studs or BMWs with the stud conversion, they arent *really* needed since the wheel keeps it pressed against the hub like any other car on the road.
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02-18-2013, 04:48 PM | #19 |
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Okay got it. So the set screws are just that. Locate the hat on the mounting plate. Then the wheel torque holds the assembly on to that backing plate.
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02-18-2013, 05:42 PM | #20 |
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Please don't be like me and forget to release the hand brake when trying to remove the rear rotors.
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02-18-2013, 06:26 PM | #21 |
2018 track days - 0 ridge 1:52:24 pacific 1:33:30
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Thanks already got that tip and only doing the fronts this time.
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02-19-2013, 01:20 AM | #22 |
2018 track days - 0 ridge 1:52:24 pacific 1:33:30
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just did this tonight. barely takes any more time than pads do. super easy. my set screws were easily removed and the rotor just fell off no need to beat it first with a hammer. it took longer to double nut my studs as i was replacing my turners for new set of apex at the same time.
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