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      04-02-2020, 02:37 PM   #1
W12x
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Non-EDC replacement for EDC cars

2011 car with about 65K miles on it, originally came with ZCP and EDC.

Looking to replace the EDC shocks with OEM or aftermarket non-EDC ones, then code out the EDC.

Basically happy with the ZCP ride height, so mainly looking to refresh the car up a bit. Looking to maintain stock comfort, if a bit of handling can be gained without extra NVH that's great, but not a priority.

1. Does anyone know if I need to swap out any parts going from EDC to non-EDC? Some Bilstein product mentions 'non-EDC upper mounting required fro EDC car'.

2. What do you guys think about OEM non-EDC, Bilstein B6, and Bilstein B8? Going to keep the stock springs and comfort is the top priority (heard good things about Bilstein's handling, not sure about comfort and maintenance/durability, but horror stories about shortage if you need replacement)
Also open to other suggestions within the same price and comfort range

3. Does anyone have a list of all the suspension/chassis bushings that should be replaced?

With all the corona virus craziness staying home and plan out car stuff is probably the best thing to do
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      04-02-2020, 03:22 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W12x View Post
2011 car with about 65K miles on it, originally came with ZCP and EDC.

Looking to replace the EDC shocks with OEM or aftermarket non-EDC ones, then code out the EDC.

Basically happy with the ZCP ride height, so mainly looking to refresh the car up a bit. Looking to maintain stock comfort, if a bit of handling can be gained without extra NVH that's great, but not a priority.

1. Does anyone know if I need to swap out any parts going from EDC to non-EDC? Some Bilstein product mentions 'non-EDC upper mounting required fro EDC car'.

2. What do you guys think about OEM non-EDC, Bilstein B6, and Bilstein B8? Going to keep the stock springs and comfort is the top priority (heard good things about Bilstein's handling, not sure about comfort and maintenance/durability, but horror stories about shortage if you need replacement)
Also open to other suggestions within the same price and comfort range

3. Does anyone have a list of all the suspension/chassis bushings that should be replaced?

With all the corona virus craziness staying home and plan out car stuff is probably the best thing to do
I just finished converting mine a couple months ago with B8s and B&G sport springs.

The setup feels between the mid to stiffest EDC setting, but the B8 struts do a good job of soaking a lot of bumps, but are in the stiff side of things.

You need non-EDC rear top bushings and hardware:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-341092-tms341092/

Everything else will transfer over. I also replaced the front mount bushings and connecting links for good measure (Prior to this I did a full front and rear control arm refresh).

Overall I'm happy with the setup, cost me just over $1k for all the parts.
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      04-02-2020, 03:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajolives View Post
I just finished converting mine a couple months ago with B8s and B&G sport springs.

The setup feels between the mid to stiffest EDC setting, but the B8 struts do a good job of soaking a lot of bumps, but are in the stiff side of things.

You need non-EDC rear top bushings and hardware:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-341092-tms341092/

Everything else will transfer over. I also replaced the front mount bushings and connecting links for good measure (Prior to this I did a full front and rear control arm refresh).

Overall I'm happy with the setup, cost me just over $1k for all the parts.
Thanks, how you liking the handling of B8 (if you came from OEM)? Sounds like a bit stiffer than I'm looking for but not too bad, maybe B6 is a bit softer

Did you use a piggy back or just coded out the EDC?

Cost is one of my concerns as well, TBH the OEM EDC isn't anywhere close to other adaptable suspensions like MRC so I can't justify the high cost for parts...I mean OEM EDC cost more than Ohlins RT...

I'm looking to do a full refresh of the bushings and possibly control arms as well. How many miles did you have on the car before the refresh?
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      04-04-2020, 02:02 PM   #4
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The handling from OEM is much sharper, however I should state my OEM had 145k miles on them, so my experience might be atypical. Like I mentioned earlier, the B8s are a little stiffer than I thought they were, but I overall I'm very happy with them. Also, the B8s are designed for lowering springs while the B6s are more for a straight OEM replacement.

I had the EDC function coded out, figured it'd be better than relying on a part to "trick" the module. The cost of OEM EDC is outrageous IMOO, aftermarket is the way to go as far as I'm concerned.

I bought ECS's front and rear control arm refresh w/ their rear trailing arm upgrade. The difference was night and day, but once again 140k miles at that point. I'll also add that my trailing arms were bent (design flaw that ECS's aftermarket part fixes - much beefier than stock).

Cost, the control kit was just under 1k if I recall, and as mentioned earlier I got the shocks/struts for just over 1k. I did bring it to an indy shop to install the front struts, alignment, and code out the EDC (the fronts were being stubborn and i didnt wanna risk breaking something; still my daily). Grand total was around $2,700 a total suspension replacement. I still plan on subframe bushings and front/rear sway bars - can't decide if I want to do that in my driveway or pay my way out of it.
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      04-05-2020, 08:25 PM   #5
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I'm getting rod bearing and BBK installation done later this year (probably after the whole virus thing is over), so I may try to get everything done altogether (thinking about all the bushings and motor mount too)

My rear diff gasket showed some minor leaking during the last inspection, maybe I will get that and the rear subframe bushings fixed at the same time.

Interesting that you found the OEM ones to offer sharper handling than B8. I think I may pick one between OEM and B6, need to do some more research on the B6 tho. And like you said the OEM EDC is way too much, I'd rather get Ohlins RT at that price point, but OEM/B6 plus all the other refresh may be work out better for similar budget.

Does the B8s have any special maintenance requirements over OEM? I know Ohlins recommend relatively frequent service which is one of the reasons I decided not to go with it..


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajolives View Post
The handling from OEM is much sharper, however I should state my OEM had 145k miles on them, so my experience might be atypical. Like I mentioned earlier, the B8s are a little stiffer than I thought they were, but I overall I'm very happy with them. Also, the B8s are designed for lowering springs while the B6s are more for a straight OEM replacement.

I had the EDC function coded out, figured it'd be better than relying on a part to "trick" the module. The cost of OEM EDC is outrageous IMOO, aftermarket is the way to go as far as I'm concerned.

I bought ECS's front and rear control arm refresh w/ their rear trailing arm upgrade. The difference was night and day, but once again 140k miles at that point. I'll also add that my trailing arms were bent (design flaw that ECS's aftermarket part fixes - much beefier than stock).

Cost, the control kit was just under 1k if I recall, and as mentioned earlier I got the shocks/struts for just over 1k. I did bring it to an indy shop to install the front struts, alignment, and code out the EDC (the fronts were being stubborn and i didnt wanna risk breaking something; still my daily). Grand total was around $2,700 a total suspension replacement. I still plan on subframe bushings and front/rear sway bars - can't decide if I want to do that in my driveway or pay my way out of it.
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      04-06-2020, 08:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W12x View Post
I'm getting rod bearing and BBK installation done later this year (probably after the whole virus thing is over), so I may try to get everything done altogether (thinking about all the bushings and motor mount too)

My rear diff gasket showed some minor leaking during the last inspection, maybe I will get that and the rear subframe bushings fixed at the same time.

Interesting that you found the OEM ones to offer sharper handling than B8. I think I may pick one between OEM and B6, need to do some more research on the B6 tho. And like you said the OEM EDC is way too much, I'd rather get Ohlins RT at that price point, but OEM/B6 plus all the other refresh may be work out better for similar budget.

Does the B8s have any special maintenance requirements over OEM? I know Ohlins recommend relatively frequent service which is one of the reasons I decided not to go with it..
I've had the B6/B8 on 4 cars so far, they last basically forever.

I would absolutely never have a suspension that requires rebuilds every 30k on a street car. Never.
[coming from someone who has had 4 MCS/JRZ suspensions for track cars]
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      04-07-2020, 12:14 AM   #7
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I had the B8's on mine and it was definitely lacking in damping control. I took them off a month after installation and replaced them with Ohlins R&T and what a difference. The car rides and handles MUCH better. Even my worn out factory dampers did a better job than the B8's.

I would recommend OEM Genuine replacement dampers. The Bilsteins just don't cut it for an M3.
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      04-07-2020, 04:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
I've had the B6/B8 on 4 cars so far, they last basically forever.

I would absolutely never have a suspension that requires rebuilds every 30k on a street car. Never.
[coming from someone who has had 4 MCS/JRZ suspensions for track cars]
I don't drive M3 that much nowadays but still rebuild every 30k can be annoying


Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeA View Post
I had the B8's on mine and it was definitely lacking in damping control. I took them off a month after installation and replaced them with Ohlins R&T and what a difference. The car rides and handles MUCH better. Even my worn out factory dampers did a better job than the B8's.

I would recommend OEM Genuine replacement dampers. The Bilsteins just don't cut it for an M3.
How did you like the Ohlins RT compared to OEM in terms of comfort? One of the major thing stopping me from going Ohlins is the recommended rebuild cycle...

I feel like new OEM may offer the best balance for my situation overall
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      04-20-2020, 02:34 AM   #9
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By new OEM you mean OEM without EDC, right?
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      04-20-2020, 02:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post
By new OEM you mean OEM without EDC, right?
Yes new OEM non-EDC parts. The EDC just isn't worth it IMO.
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      04-22-2020, 07:38 PM   #11
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i saw you post a few times about your experience with B8’s and swift springs and I have to say I have the opposite experience. with only 57k on my EDC suspension, my B8/swift combo rides fantastic. it’s somewhere between the normal and sport setting from edc in terms of stiffness, closer to sport, but soaks up bumps much better. no harshness or bouncing

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeA View Post
I had the B8's on mine and it was definitely lacking in damping control. I took them off a month after installation and replaced them with Ohlins R&T and what a difference. The car rides and handles MUCH better. Even my worn out factory dampers did a better job than the B8's.

I would recommend OEM Genuine replacement dampers. The Bilsteins just don't cut it for an M3.
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      04-23-2020, 03:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by statik View Post
i saw you post a few times about your experience with B8’s and swift springs and I have to say I have the opposite experience. with only 57k on my EDC suspension, my B8/swift combo rides fantastic. it’s somewhere between the normal and sport setting from edc in terms of stiffness, closer to sport, but soaks up bumps much better. no harshness or bouncing
Interesting, maybe I'm being too picky! Mine had Swift springs too, my problem was mainly with the rear dampers, they needed more rebound control.
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      04-23-2020, 04:54 PM   #13
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I've tracked two B12 E9X M3s (B12=B8 dampers and Eibach springs) and the result is excellent.
It evidently is not a track oriented suspension but it is still better than stock, and stock can be quite fast
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