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      05-10-2017, 07:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzCraig View Post
Hey mate,

I'm not actually getting any codes to do with air or fuel delivery, so I'm 'kinda' code free as well.
I have booked in to Advan on Tuesday to go over the car, throw it on the dyno, etc to trace what is causing the issue.
I think you are on the same wavelength as me, I am leaning towards fuel delivery as per the video it struggles to start, once started it misses and pops and carries on for the first minute or two, after that it free revs fine, then it clanks and pings under load.
I'm thinking low pressure sensor or MAP sensor, but we'll find out Tuesday I guess

Cheers,
Craig
About a month ago my car threw a code for a faulty MAP sensor. It also caused the check engine light on the cluster. The car felt a bit down on power, but it started fine, idled only slightly rough, and there was zero hesitation or pinging under load. I just wanted to mention this in order to give you another data point in your search for the root cause. Good luck.
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      05-10-2017, 11:35 PM   #24
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Low Fuel Pressure Sensor
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      05-11-2017, 09:30 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzCraig View Post
Bit of an update - So a symptom that seems to be slowly exacerbating is the car almost stalling on startup. If there is any heat in the engine it doesn't do it though. After a bit of a cough it idles perfectly fine. I pulled the codes and got nothing of significance so that didn't help. From what I have read though this is one of the symptoms of the low pressure sensor going bad.

Here is a vid from this morning:

https://goo.gl/photos/BuFxbEXDwwsVEMpp7

Anyone else had this kind of start?

Craig
Cheq to see if you have a vacuum leak.
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      05-16-2017, 12:17 AM   #26
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Okey doke,

After running a fresh tank of fuel with some octane booster and taking it for a 500km drive the car seems to be running perfectly again now.
Took it in and put it on the dyno and it ran perfectly with absolutely zero pinging or abnormal noises
Vid -


The power and AFR curves were spot on, made 260+kw at the wheels so the engine is very healthy.



After having a look at fuel location pre and post run there is a high possibility that the station is receiving alternating batches of summer and winter fuel which is a problem.
A very recent race meet here saw 2 of 43 cars lose engines and nearly half the paddock having issues with missing and running badly on the local fuel stations supply.
Upon investigation it turns out this time of year in Aus the fuel batches are often mixed up and for 80% of cars out there they wont notice the difference but the other 20% of the more 'precious' engines definitely do. Anecdotally my neighbour owns an F430 and he has had several issues with it fouling plugs in the last few months so there could be something to this theory.

Anywho, until it actually throws a code at me about I am going to continue on as normal as for now the car is running like a champ
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      05-17-2017, 05:24 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locksmythe View Post
Techron clogs your injectors?
LOL it won't.

To be clear, those cleaners aren't really necessary on a car that gets premium fuel its whole life AND gets routine oil changes with a high-quality oil.

However, if you really want to go above-and-beyond, you can use those for maintenance. I do it on the tank of gas just before my yearly oil change so that anything loosened up is quickly drained.



The SAE has published papers on which of these chemicals actually make a measurable improvement. They actually weighed the carbon build up on the valves before and after. The secret is to look for high doses of PEA, short for polyetheramine. Most fuel system cleaner products have very tiny amounts (a few percent) or none at all. The only products with high doses, typically 30% or higher, are:

Chevron Techron Concentrate
Amsoil PI
Red Line SI-1
Gumout Regane

Pay close attention to the label, as there are several versions of each -- only the versions I listed have the high PEA content. I personally prefer the Red Line one since it has an upper cylinder lube in it, but the Chevron and Gumout products go on sale pretty frequently.
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      05-23-2017, 01:39 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzCraig View Post
Also, threw some ECS 15mm spacers on the front and 12.5mm on the rear. The car sits so much nicer now!
The front guards are filled out like they should have been from the factory!


The ass was phat...
Looking good! Are you on stock suspension/ride height? Any profile (side) pics of the car with the new stance?
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      05-23-2017, 03:06 PM   #29
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Don't put octane booster into your car -- ever. It terminates your O2 sensors
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      05-23-2017, 05:07 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimiraikkonen View Post
Looking good! Are you on stock suspension/ride height? Any profile (side) pics of the car with the new stance?

Yep, stock everything except the spacers. They were my first mod hehe

Taken just now

View post on imgur.com
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      05-23-2017, 05:43 PM   #31
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The spacer combination looks nice. Any rubbing on the front? Any changes in the handling?
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      05-23-2017, 05:57 PM   #32
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No rubbing whatsoever, at full lock left and right will see a fairly small clearance to the wheel arch but it doesn't actually touch it.
Handling wise turn in feels the same, the rear feels like it has a bit more mechanical grip now. Not miles more but I have noticed on corners where the back would break away with a 'normal' amount of throttle it now just grips up and pushes out.

For me it was purely for aesthetics, and I think it has worked a treat!
The car looks much more 'aggressive' now just sitting still
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