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      11-16-2018, 07:52 PM   #1
brettcp
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What suspension components should be replaced at 100k miles?

My 2012 E93 M3 is coming up on 100k miles soon.. Non-EDC. What suspension components should be replaced as preventative maintenance at this mileage (if any?)? I have no interest in adjusting ride height, I like to leave the car as stock as possible, just want to maintain the factory ride quality. Shocks/struts/bushings/etc?

Thanks!
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      11-16-2018, 10:59 PM   #2
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Pretty much everything you have not replaced already.
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      11-18-2018, 07:29 AM   #3
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I think it depends on your driving and your roads. It could very well be that nothing needs replacing. Suspension components tend not to suddenly experience total failure, they degrade over time. In addition each of those components can easily be inspected (as opposed to rod bearings), so in general I wouldn't suggest willy nilly replacing suspension components.

My example, I have an 09 M3 that has seen several track events per year for it's entire life. I just replaced most all of my front end suspension at 110,000 miles, just like you as preventative maintenance. However, my parts all looked good, no worn our bushings, nothing sloppy or loose, the only exception was my aftermarket camber plates were making some noise, but still functioned okay. My justification was that aluminum can fatigue when subjected to repeated high loads so it might be reasonable to consider some sort or routine replacement, however, I haven't seen any postings of track cars having tension arm or other parts failures (unless it was used as a tie down location for towing).

I'd say either inspect it yourself or have it inspected and if it's all okay, then you have lots more miles to travel before you replace anything.
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      01-05-2019, 01:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
I think it depends on your driving and your roads. It could very well be that nothing needs replacing. Suspension components tend not to suddenly experience total failure, they degrade over time. In addition each of those components can easily be inspected (as opposed to rod bearings), so in general I wouldn't suggest willy nilly replacing suspension components.

My example, I have an 09 M3 that has seen several track events per year for it's entire life. I just replaced most all of my front end suspension at 110,000 miles, just like you as preventative maintenance. However, my parts all looked good, no worn our bushings, nothing sloppy or loose, the only exception was my aftermarket camber plates were making some noise, but still functioned okay. My justification was that aluminum can fatigue when subjected to repeated high loads so it might be reasonable to consider some sort or routine replacement, however, I haven't seen any postings of track cars having tension arm or other parts failures (unless it was used as a tie down location for towing).

I'd say either inspect it yourself or have it inspected and if it's all okay, then you have lots more miles to travel before you replace anything.
Did you notice any difference in feel at all after you did that replacement?
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      01-05-2019, 07:00 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aajami View Post
Did you notice any difference in feel at all after you did that replacement?

Honestly, no I didn't. The only exception was once I replaced the camber plates the clicking noise I was having went away. Otherwise felt same as normal and this is my daily driver.
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      01-06-2019, 01:19 PM   #6
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I would do shocks and struts because the stock ones are so easily improved upon with various aftermarket kits

But otherwise ain’t broke, don’t fix. Tie rods are the only part of the suspension that could and probably do eventually (wear item on most cars anyway, add in quick rack plus big wheel/tire/brake package it’s shoving around) wear out in a way that can become unsafe. Another easy thing to check with the car in the air.
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      01-14-2019, 06:57 AM   #7
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Whatever looks like has wear and tear, bushes and springs will be on the way depending how the car has been driven and some bushes may have signs of wear. A full refresh would be nice to get it back to new handling but costly and not necessarily needed.
Maybe check out the bushes first and start replacing a few and go the poly route?
powerflex are well recommended https://powerflexstore.co.uk/bmw/e90...-m3-2006-2013/
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      01-16-2019, 08:04 AM   #8
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I have replaced both front control arms, upper strut bearings, rear lower control arms, motor mounts, trans mounts, front sway bar endlinks, rear subframe bushings, diff bushings and shocks/struts and I am at 10 years and 95k miles. I have tie rods waiting to go in.

If you can twist control arms side to side with your bare hands and hear metal contact at either end of the range, they are worn.

Inspect motor mounts for cracking and collapsing and separation.

My trans mounts actually looked fine and felt just as stiff as the new ones — I have 6MT and don’t know whether they wear sooner on a DCT. I tried stiffer aftermarket poly in 80A but it creates nvh in the 2000-3000 rpm range. I ran them for over a year but just didn’t like the nvh and recently swapped back to stock.

Changing to stiffer subframe mounts made a noticeable difference — no more wiggle or movement before setting on hard cornering. I went 75D poly. I really like this mod.

The diff was probably fine but I had read of people breaking a bolt and damaging the diff. Don’t go much stiffer or you will hear whine and, at certain speeds, singing. I went 95A poly and can hear some whine and at certain rpm in upper gears, singing. 80A would be less risky and a little stiffer than stock.

My upper strut bearings may have taken a beating from a few bad potholes. Not wheel benders but jarring. Could have been made worse by my stiffer H&R springs. I was feeling something funny in the steering.

I changed the front sway bar endlinks chasing an off slow speed barely audible and occasional clunk in the front. Made no change, but they are a wear item and will fail faster on a lowered car since stock links are then a little short and the joints see more stress.

I have tie rods waiting to go in. Hoping maybe they will cure the slight occasional very low speed clunk it loose feeling.

A few years ago, I bought a used set of bilstein b8 and swapped them in. I like them and aftermarket shocks and struts have shorter rods that allow more suspension travel with lowering springs.
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      07-17-2021, 04:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I have replaced both front control arms, upper strut bearings, rear lower control arms, motor mounts, trans mounts, front sway bar endlinks, rear subframe bushings, diff bushings and shocks/struts and I am at 10 years and 95k miles. I have tie rods waiting to go in.

If you can twist control arms side to side with your bare hands and hear metal contact at either end of the range, they are worn.

Inspect motor mounts for cracking and collapsing and separation.

My trans mounts actually looked fine and felt just as stiff as the new ones — I have 6MT and don’t know whether they wear sooner on a DCT. I tried stiffer aftermarket poly in 80A but it creates nvh in the 2000-3000 rpm range. I ran them for over a year but just didn’t like the nvh and recently swapped back to stock.

Changing to stiffer subframe mounts made a noticeable difference — no more wiggle or movement before setting on hard cornering. I went 75D poly. I really like this mod.

The diff was probably fine but I had read of people breaking a bolt and damaging the diff. Don’t go much stiffer or you will hear whine and, at certain speeds, singing. I went 95A poly and can hear some whine and at certain rpm in upper gears, singing. 80A would be less risky and a little stiffer than stock.

My upper strut bearings may have taken a beating from a few bad potholes. Not wheel benders but jarring. Could have been made worse by my stiffer H&R springs. I was feeling something funny in the steering.

I changed the front sway bar endlinks chasing an off slow speed barely audible and occasional clunk in the front. Made no change, but they are a wear item and will fail faster on a lowered car since stock links are then a little short and the joints see more stress.

I have tie rods waiting to go in. Hoping maybe they will cure the slight occasional very low speed clunk it loose feeling.

A few years ago, I bought a used set of bilstein b8 and swapped them in. I like them and aftermarket shocks and struts have shorter rods that allow more suspension travel with lowering springs.
Great info, Thanks man!!
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