DIY: S65 M3 Rod Bearing

[Duckengine]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Let us know how it works out. If it's better we can change the recommendation in the DIY

Tool worked like a charm.

[Theodore]

Originally Posted by Duckengine

Tool worked like a charm.

Just for further clarification, was it a tight fit on the bolt with little to no play? And to confirm, the tool you used is a 12mm Double Hex socket correct?



as opposed to the 12mm 12 point socket:

[Duckengine]

52000 miles

If you look around all the edges you can see copper. Except for #3, not too bad...??

[Duckengine]

These pics show the edges a little better

[Duckengine]

Originally Posted by Theodore

Just for further clarification, was it a tight fit on the bolt with little to no play? And to confirm, the tool you used is a 12mm Double Hex socket correct?



as opposed to the 12mm 12 point socket:

tighter fit for sure. 12mm Double hex, not 12 point 12 mm

[Theodore]

Originally Posted by Duckengine

tighter fit for sure. 12mm Double hex, not 12 point 12 mm

Great contribution, ordering one now to add to my tool collection, thanks!

EDIT: Not surprising, but it looks like this socket is also sold as a 12mm "Bi-Hex" and 12mm "Bi-Hexagon" if you have trouble finding one.

EDIT: Bought the Stahlwille 46-12 Steel Extra Deep Bi-Hexagon Socket, 3/8" Drive and it is a much tighter fit than my regular 12 point 12mm socket on the OEM rod bolts. Highly recommended for this job.

[Duckengine]

Originally Posted by admranger

I just didn't remove it. No secret to that. Not sure what you're getting at to be honest.

You can still get to the pulley nut no problem.

AGREED

[Duckengine]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

It's really a PITA to do it with the subframe hanging. For the minimal extra work it's just better to remove it altogether to save yourself the frustration.

No disrespect but I diagree. While RB's 1&2 were a little more difficult, nothing compared to all the effort to completely remove AND reinstall the subframe.

It was actually pretty easy.

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by Duckengine

No disrespect but I diagree. While RB's 1&2 were a little more difficult, nothing compared to all the effort to completely remove AND reinstall the subframe.

It was actually pretty easy.

To each their own. I've done it both ways, many times, with and without lifts. I've refined my own process over the years, maybe you were removing more than was necessary but on a lift it just takes me 15 minutes extra to take the subframe from hanging status to completely removed. I can't imagine why anyone would attempt to do it with the subframe hanging in their way- especially without a lift...

[SYT_Shadow]

Duckengine: very nice! I will mention that in the first post, it's an interesting data point!

I did the rod bearings of my E92 M3 today and used a 12mm 12 point socket without issues, but if this is a more appropriate tool it certainly won't hurt to have it!

Your bearings didn't look very good. Besides the one that had been 'skinned', the rest had discoloration from losing one layer of bearing material.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Duckengine

No disrespect but I diagree. While RB's 1&2 were a little more difficult, nothing compared to all the effort to completely remove AND reinstall the subframe.

It was actually pretty easy.

I guess to each their own.

I strongly believe that the more things you do the more chances there are to screw up. KISS methodology seems to work well.

Today I did another rod bearing and was able to get the pan off without removing that front 'pipe' that's usually in the way. I will modify the DIY to include that information.

The only situation where I would remove the subframe is if I was doing this on jackstands. Then again, I am not a professional mechanic like dean so YMMV.

[SYT_Shadow]

[duplicated from post #3]

Today, 4/1/17, we did the rod bearings on our E92 M3

Specs:
2013 car
6mt
30k miles
We bought it new and followed the break in to a T
No winter/cold weather use
10W60 BMW oil changed every 5k
Tracked for two seasons
yada yada yada


Here it is, about to be operated on!



And here are the rod bearings



bottoms


tops








People may keep telling themselves this is normal, but this is NOT normal!


PS: after 30k miles the engine mounts weren't in pieces but they were already tearing a bit. Glad I changed them out.

[bvrider1]

Can you elaborate on what is normal? More for me to understand. Thank you

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by bvrider1

Can you elaborate on what is normal? More for me to understand. Thank you

There should be no wear. They should be a single color.

[pbonsalb]

I used a 12 point socket as well without issue. There are good and not as good sockets.

[deansbimmer]

I have no problems with fitment using my Snap-on 12 points, but am interested in trying out that double hex.

There is "normal" industry accepted rod bearing wear, and there is what is normal for S65's. No used S65 rod bearings will look "normal" according to conventional wear patterns (which should basically show no visible wear). With that said, your bearings look pretty typical for these engines. It's why we have vendors who have re engineered them in an attempt to resolve the poor wear tendencies. Good that you changed them out.

[KawBoy]

#8, today. '12, 28k miles. No track days.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

[duplicated from post #3]

Today, 4/1/17, we did the rod bearings on our E92 M3

Specs:
2013 car
6mt
30k miles
We bought it new and followed the break in to a T
No winter/cold weather use
10W60 BMW oil changed every 5k
Tracked for two seasons
yada yada yada


Here it is, about to be operated on!



And here are the rod bearings



bottoms


tops








People may keep telling themselves this is normal, but this is NOT normal!


PS: after 30k miles the engine mounts weren't in pieces but they were already tearing a bit. Glad I changed them out.

Mine aren't all that different from yours. So maybe that looks about normal. I mind take a file to mine and see what they look like with some more wear.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Mine aren't all that different from yours. So maybe that looks about normal. I mind take a file to mine and see what they look like with some more wear.

Post the results if you do!

[L4ces]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Mine aren't all that different from yours. So maybe that looks about normal. I mind take a file to mine and see what they look like with some more wear.

Smart. Good idea!

[admranger]

bigjae1976, use sandpaper instead of a file please. That way you can reveal the bearing wear a little at a time. Ya, it'll take longer but your time isn't valuable to me.

deansbimmer what do you make of those spots on the bearings? My car had those too? I'm wondering if there wasn't some cavitation going on? Thinking about the physics of that is interesting...

SYT_Shadow, got this down to less than 8 hours yet?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by admranger

bigjae1976, use sandpaper instead of a file please. That way you can reveal the bearing wear a little at a time. Ya, it'll take longer but your time isn't valuable to me.

deansbimmer what do you make of those spots on the bearings? My car had those too? I'm wondering if there wasn't some cavitation going on? Thinking about the physics of that is interesting...

SYT_Shadow, got this down to less than 8 hours yet?

Yes. It took 8 doing tranny and diff flushes and forgetting my engine support bar.

Will be doing a S85 this summer