Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[dandandan]

So with iOS15 on Andream B CICHL box I'm getting a few new bugs with waze audio switching and not working with Spotify also running. This is all iOS15 related since updating.

Curious if any iPhone guys running iOS15 and iPhone 12 Pro are also experiencing any similar audio switching issues.

For instance, when a direction to turn right comes on, the music dims and stays quiet until you quit waze, or attempting to dictate a destination simply does not work and music is left quiet.

These sorts of problems seem strictly iOS CarPlay related and I'm sure will get sorted with a software update but I wanted to hear from anyone experiencing this behaviour in the Mr12Volt world.

Thanks guys!

[nibty]

Originally Posted by dandandan

So with iOS15 on Andream B CICHL box I'm getting a few new bugs with waze audio switching and not working with Spotify also running. This is all iOS15 related since updating.

Curious if any iPhone guys running iOS15 and iPhone 12 Pro are also experiencing any similar audio switching issues.

For instance, when a direction to turn right comes on, the music dims and stays quiet until you quit waze, or attempting to dictate a destination simply does not work and music is left quiet.

These sorts of problems seem strictly iOS CarPlay related and I'm sure will get sorted with a software update but I wanted to hear from anyone experiencing this behaviour in the Mr12Volt world.

Thanks guys!

I just finished my install and have had little time to test, but I did noticed the audio switching issues on Waze with an iPhone 13. I thought it was a Waze bug.

edit:

I'm seeing a lot of complaints about the Waze audio bug for Carplay on the internet. Hopefully, Waze will be fixed with an app update. For now, it's not usable.

[drwankel]

Did my install today. Overall went smooth until just before the end.

Initial observations:

1. If you are using a mic splitter cable, and you intend to mount the mr12volt behind the glovebox, you will need a 3.5mm audio extension cable. Its basically exactly long enough to get behind the CIC with not alot of room leftover.

2. I did not have to code my car to get the mr 12volt working. I connected everything up and was getting ready to code it when to my surprise, the cd menu now had multiple entries in it including mr 12volt. My car is a 2012, doesn't have a cd changer. Possible the required coding change is on by default in the later year cars? I'll get a trace from ncs expert and see what it says.

3. Wanted to test the mic splitter, but when I made a call in carplay, it handed off to the idrive phone system. Actually kinda nice. You could technically run this unit without a mic connected directly to the box if you didn't care about siri or hey google. I'll try unpairing with the oem system and try making the call again to force the call through carplay to see what happens regarding mic splitter audio quality.

4. As there were only 2 connections to the cic unit, MOST and LVDS, both of which are a small connector, there is not much bulk to hide behind the cic unit.

5. I initially had the same problem as someone else with the idrive controller not working. The cable that needs to plug into the idrive needs a substantial ammount of pressure to fully seat and makes a very loud click once it does. I almost thought I was going to break it.

6. My unit was one of the pre-orders for October delivery. The box had the 9/16 firmware update installed, so there was no need to update anything (yet).

7. Reinstalling the a pillar was frustrating as it was difficult to line up at the bottom. I eventually got it out of pure luck, but unfortunately had the casualty of the white plastic clips from a failed attempt. Feels like there's a secret handshake to installing this part. If someone knows what it is, please share. I've basically deduced you need to get the bottom perfectly aligned first, and then do the rest, but getting that bottom set just right is difficult. Again- got this one out of pure luck. I'll be back in there to replace the clips that I broke.


Question for anybody who installed the unit behind the glovebox like in the original post.

The glove box approach I'm having a great deal of not fun with. While I breezed through the rest of the install, reinstalling the entire glove box unit is totally kicking my ass. Multiple issues. Made the mistake of installing the cup holders before the glovebox, which I later realized, the glove box also hangs of the back of the cup holders. That one is out of the way. Cup holders after glovebox.

What I'm still struggling with is getting the box lined up correctly. Its only 6 screws, but I cant seem to get it to line up correctly for me. I'm having issues with the bottom left corner. I feel like there's some secret handshake or sequence I'm not following in installing this piece, and I'm missing it. Through trial and error, I found you kind of have swing it up form the bottom, as the bottom will never connect if you start from the top. That got the bottom right side eventually in place, but the bottom left will never set correctly no matter what I do. There's also the fun part where the top clips of the glovebox need to slide under the mr12volt. You have to slide your hand under the dash and kinda lift the box so the top clip can get under it.

I'm suspecting I need to remove the bottom piece of the passenger dash, and detach the glovebox door completely to get the assembly lined up. I'll give it another go in a few days. I'm also wondering if I got the idrive usb connector in the glovebox cable misrouted behind it and it might be binding.

I still feel like what I am doing is all wrong. Anybody that has removed and reinstalled the glovebox assembly, I'd love to know what the trick is or what sequence you use to install it. Thank you!

[SocalM3]

Originally Posted by drwankel

3. Wanted to test the mic splitter, but when I made a call in carplay, it handed off to the idrive phone system. Actually kinda nice. You could technically run this unit without a mic connected directly to the box if you didn't care about siri or hey google. I'll try unpairing with the oem system and try making the call again to force the call through carplay to see what happens regarding mic splitter audio quality.

Thank you for the update! Glad to hear your install went pretty smoothly. When you made the call in Carplay, did your screen switch back to the old idrive phone screen? I tried to change the screen back to the Carplay during the call (by pressing the power button) but I was unable to do so unless I switch the call back to Carplay with the inferior sound quality. My other Carsara unit will allow me to stay in Carplay and have the call routed through the OEM Bluetooth. I would like to do so in case I am using a nav app in Carplay when a call come in, this way I can still use the nav. If you figure out a way, please let us know!

[netcsk]

Originally Posted by drwankel

Did my install today. Overall went smooth until just before the end.

Initial observations:

1. If you are using a mic splitter cable, and you intend to mount the mr12volt behind the glovebox, you will need a 3.5mm audio extension cable. Its basically exactly long enough to get behind the CIC with not alot of room leftover.

5. Reinstalling the a pillar was frustrating as it was difficult to line up at the bottom. I eventually got it out of pure luck, but unfortunately had the casualty of the white plastic clips from a failed attempt. Feels like there's a secret handshake to installing this part. If someone knows what it is, please share. I've basically deduced you need to get the bottom perfectly aligned first, and then do the rest, but getting that bottom set just right is difficult. Again- got this one out of pure luck. I'll be back in there to replace the clips that I broke.

I still feel like what I am doing is all wrong. Anybody that has removed and reinstalled the glovebox assembly, I'd love to know what the trick is or what sequence you use to install it. Thank you!

1. You could also route the mic splitter down the passenger a pillar.

5. It went in smoothly for me - yes, bottom tabs go in first, then the push tab in the middle.

I took the glove box out and reinstalled. I did it by dropping the kick panel, separating the door from the hinge with four screws, removing the cup holders, and then removing the 6 screws and the box. Likely not required this way, but it all went back together well in reverse order.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by SocalM3

Thank you for the update! Glad to hear your install went pretty smoothly. When you made the call in Carplay, did your screen switch back to the old idrive phone screen? I tried to change the screen back to the Carplay during the call (by pressing the power button) but I was unable to do so unless I switch the call back to Carplay with the inferior sound quality. My other Carsara unit will allow me to stay in Carplay and have the call routed through the OEM Bluetooth. I would like to do so in case I am using a nav app in Carplay when a call come in, this way I can still use the nav. If you figure out a way, please let us know!

Yes, when I made the call inside carplay, it kicked me back to the idrive system when the call started, and idrive handled the call. I did not try going back to carplay when the call was in progress to see if I could, but I will give this a try and let you know.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by netcsk

1. You could also route the mic splitter down the passenger a pillar.

5. It went in smoothly for me - yes, bottom tabs go in first, then the push tab in the middle.

I took the glove box out and reinstalled. I did it by dropping the kick panel, separating the door from the hinge with four screws, removing the cup holders, and then removing the 6 screws and the box. Likely not required this way, but it all went back together well in reverse order.

I'm not sure why I never considered going down the passenger a pillar. You wouldnt need an extension cable then. Obvious answer and good idea.

Yep- I wonder if its the kick panel. I'm going to give this another go today. The one thing I've learned about these cars or German cars in general, is there is a procedure or sequence to removing or reinstalling something, and if you deviate from that sequence you are doomed.

[goldenadam]

Installed this past weekend as well, and wanted to share my notes if it helps anyone!

1. I did code the car to add the CD Changer using Bimmercode before the install. Interesting that at least 1 person had success without needing to
   
2. Sound quality is really phenomenal. I was using a small bluetooth adapter previously plugged into the AUX input and the sound quality after is very noticeably improved. This really does make the other MMI units that use AUX audio obsolete
   
3. 6MT install - I could not get my after market rear camera to work without running a wire from the reverse light wire (blue/black wire) from my taillight harness to the m12volt reverse signal wire. 'Gear Position' setting in the system menu did not work for me - I believe another 6MT driver required this as well.
   
4. I disconnected the battery before the install which caused various codes to be thrown, including a 'Passenger System restraint/airbag malfunction' that iDrive reported very obnoxiously. Thought I had messed the passenger airbag module up when I removed the glovebox/ran wires? I cleared the code after research into this problem and am for now attributing it to a voltage drop that triggered this error during the install at some point. Hope it doesn't come back!
   
5. After first connecting everything and testing, the m12volt unit started up but the iDrive controller button/wheel was not working to control anything. I also ran into the issue where the connector the iDrive button controller was not pushed in hard enough - after pushing way harder than felt right, heard a click and things functioned normally
   
6. Had some issues when I put the dash back together that no air was blowing out the front vents, and only hot air was coming out the rear vents. Took the dash apart and carefully routed wiring and checked connectors on the AC controls and the problem went away. Man these cars are temperamental...
   
7. Glovebox reinstall - there are some hangars on the back of the glovebox that hang on a metal railing. Someone mentioned an issue getting all the screw holes to line up - make sure the plastic hangers are seated on the railing and everything should be good.
   

Hoping for some help on some mr12volt software/usability questions/issues:

1. I could not get my front camera to ever display. I set the 'Front camera' setting to 15s and I understand it should work after being in reverse mode for some amount of time automatically? 6MT car, and this isnt working. I've tested the front camera independently with a small monitor and by plugging into 'Video In' on m12volt and I get a picture no issue.
   
2. With Wireless Android Auto - I have to re-pair to my phone's bluetooth not every time I turn on the car, but almost every time. I go into the 'Bluetooth' system menu in mr12volt and delete my phone, and then can re-pair and Android Auto works normally. Anyone have this problem and resolved it somehow?
   

[drwankel]

Quick update- got the glovebox to seat correctly. Dropping the kick panel and removing the glovebox door really helped. I think the root of my issue was two things- the mr12volt usb cable was hitting on the back of the glovebox- had to carefully re-route that, and the glovebox usb cable wasnt routed correctly. Lesson learned here, just take the extra pieces off.

All good! Now to replace those a pillar clips I broke.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by goldenadam

[*]Glovebox reinstall - there are some hangars on the back of the glovebox that hang on a metal railing. Someone mentioned an issue getting all the screw holes to line up - make sure the plastic hangers are seated on the railing and everything should be good.

Those hangers go onto the back of the cup holders. If you remove the cup holders before you reinstall the glovebox itself, its much easier, and then the cup holders just slide right into the hangers.

[drwankel]

Got the a pillar trim sorted out.

Couple other comments after using it this morning.

The carplay can automatically switch to dark mode when the headlights are on, or automatic headlights engage. Nice! The OEM navigation in the CIC had day/night mode, but wouldn't automatically change when the headlights turned on and off like it did in the later NBT cars.

On carplay, google maps on day mode, the streets are impossible to see. Waze and apple maps are fine. Doing some digging on this as other people have reported problems like this with google maps and carplay/android auto.

Sound quality. While the sound is very clear without distortion, there is something funky going on here. There's a real loss of bass vs playing the same audio directly through the CIC system. This is while using carplay. Something isnt right- not sure what.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by goldenadam

[*]I could not get my front camera to ever display. I set the 'Front camera' setting to 15s and I understand it should work after being in reverse mode for some amount of time automatically? 6MT car, and this isnt working. I've tested the front camera independently with a small monitor and by plugging into 'Video In' on m12volt and I get a picture no issue.
[*]With Wireless Android Auto - I have to re-pair to my phone's bluetooth not every time I turn on the car, but almost every time. I go into the 'Bluetooth' system menu in mr12volt and delete my phone, and then can re-pair and Android Auto works normally. Anyone have this problem and resolved it somehow?
[/LIST]

Mine is a DCT so unfortunately can't help you with the recognition, mine worked when I changed the front camera setting.

I have a Pixel 3XL and haven't had that issue with Wireless AA. The only issue I had was once the screen was blank, I didn't know the reset shortcut back then (holding enter, pressing the direction selector down.) but once I turned the car off and returned later it worked again and I haven't had that issue again my plan next time was to try the reset.

[nibty]

Originally Posted by drwankel

Sound quality. While the sound is very clear without distortion, there is something funky going on here. There's a real loss of bass vs playing the same audio directly through the CIC system. This is while using carplay. Something isnt right- not sure what.

I'm also having some sound quality issues. There's a huge loss of bass, and adjusting the CIC EQ doesn't help much. I'm curious if it's a bug in Carplay or the unit itself. I tried to modify the EQ in the iOS settings but didn't notice a difference.

[drwankel]

A few updates:

I've found the problem and identified a mitigation for google maps in carplay having the map basically all white with the streets not visible when not in darkmode.

The problem here is the contrast settings on the mr12volt box are set too high. Go into the mr12volt settings, then go to display, and then reduce the contrast by about 25% or more from its default. Google maps now looks 100% better. Still experimenting to see what the most contrast I can run before things go amuck here.

IOS 15.0.2 was released today which addresses some carplay audio apps being unable to start. I have noticed a difference in terms of being able to start and stop audio apps, had a few instances where they got stuck, now its just all together snappier when doing that.

For folks encountering the issue with Waze dropping the volume level of the music you were playing, and being stuck that way, if you go into the waze settings on the phone, drop the voice guidance level down then drag it back up, it will make a chime, then the music audio should go back to the correct level. Obviously a bug in waze, hopefully it gets fixed.

As far as the audio quality issue, there is still a lack of bass when compared to the same audio natively in the CIC system. I'm going to reach out to Mr12volt support to see what they say about this.

[drwankel]

Just made a call in CarPlay using the mic splitter cable and it sounded terrible. Definitely needs some adjustment on the mr12volt side.

[drwankel]

I've been in contact with Mr12Volt support.

They are setting up a repro case for the audio/bass issue using the steps I identified. (play a mp3 from the center console with a USB stick natively with the CIC system vs play the same MP3 from the music app in carplay from an iphone)

They've asked for examples of the contrast issue to possibly roll into future firmware/software update to use as the default, which I will take photos of tomorrow.

I've reported the mic splitter issue to them as well in a separate ticket, no response on that one yet. I suspect that one may be a bit trickier for them to identify, and if they'd even be willing to fix it considering we aren't using the kit as intended. My suggestion to them was to make the microphone settings adjustable in the UI, so hopefully we can find the right combination of settings that work.

[djan9el]

Originally Posted by drwankel

They are setting up a repro case for the audio/bass issue using the steps I identified. (play a mp3 from the center console with a USB stick natively with the CIC system vs play the same MP3 from the music app in carplay from an iphone)

Have you tried comparing audio/bass while playing the mp3 from Mr12Volt Music menu (play mp3 from Mr12Volt usb connection), instead of CarPlay?

Maybe someone else with an Android phone can test playing mp3 from CIC systems vs Android Auto to see if the have similar results with bass loss.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by djan9el

Maybe someone else with an Android phone can test playing mp3 from CIC systems vs Android Auto to see if the have similar results with bass loss.

No issues with lack of bass when I am using Wireless AA.
Sounds great, way better than using AUX.

Can't really tell any difference between high quality mp3 and playing the same file via wireless AA.

I have some Lossless files I wanted to test, but my audio player app I was using doesn't support those files. So I need to find a new one and try them out.

[djan9el]

Originally Posted by tdott

No issues with lack of bass when I am using Wireless AA.
Sounds great, way better than using AUX.

Can't really tell any difference between high quality mp3 and playing the same file via wireless AA.

I have some Lossless files I wanted to test, but my audio player app I was using doesn't support those files. So I need to find a new one and try them out.

Thanks for the update. Do you have the capability to connect a USB drive to the CIC system and play mp3 directly from it? I wonder if the music/bass quality using the USB vs AUX is the same. Similarly, if we were to test a good quality mp3 playing from Android Auto/CarPlay vs Music option directly from Mr12Volt unit, that could at least gives us an idea if the lack of bass issue (for those with problems) is due to the application(s) or the Mr12Volt P2000 device, regardless of input/output.

[Jerezblack.m3]

How much better is the sound quality vs lets say tune2air?

[tdott]

Originally Posted by djan9el

Thanks for the update. Do you have the capability to connect a USB drive to the CIC system and play mp3 directly from it?

My test was with the same mp3 file on the hdd of the cic, vs the same file on my phone.

playing the same mp3 file from the hdd or usd should be the same.
i have not tried playing the mp3 file directly from the 12volt unit.

[nibty]

Originally Posted by djan9el

Thanks for the update. Do you have the capability to connect a USB drive to the CIC system and play mp3 directly from it? I wonder if the music/bass quality using the USB vs AUX is the same. Similarly, if we were to test a good quality mp3 playing from Android Auto/CarPlay vs Music option directly from Mr12Volt unit, that could at least gives us an idea if the lack of bass issue (for those with problems) is due to the application(s) or the Mr12Volt P2000 device, regardless of input/output.

So I just tested a few songs and some bass test tones from the mr12volt USB, Carplay, and USB on the CIC.

The mr12volt tests sounded the same from both USB and Carplay, with a lower volume on the lower ranges - loss of bass. The test from the CIC USB sounded better with louder and fuller bass.

I used test tones from https://www.kicker.com/test-tones. Running the consistent 50hz test made it easy to switch around and notice the difference in volume. I also tested with a few hip hop songs from the charts.