When Did You Replace Your Throttle Actuator(s)?

[gsxrliterbikz]

Originally Posted by bstone801

I bet if you rev it up past 4-5k in neutral it will trigger the faulty codes again...

For me, I can rev it as high as I want, but its the quick off throttle that causes limp mode.
A quick blip of the gas or a fast shift or rev match will cause it

[BPMSport]

2008 M3

Bank One went just above 50k. Replaced both at same time.

[vincE92M3]

Originally Posted by gsxrliterbikz

For me, I can rev it as high as I want, but its the quick off throttle that causes limp mode.
A quick blip of the gas or a fast shift or rev match will cause it

Mine seems to be the same.

[quicktwinturbo]

78k
right went out. Replaced both

[Rat3d ///M]

Bumping this up, because it looks like one of my TA just went out. No warranty here. My wallet hates me right now.

Anyone do any research on replacing the gears opposed to replacing the entire TA? Considering this route, but afraid it's the electronics that are bad, not the gears alone.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by ||||||||||

Bumping this up, because it looks like one of my TA just went out. No warranty here. My wallet hates me right now.

Anyone do any research on replacing the gears opposed to replacing the entire TA? Considering this route, but afraid it's the electronics that are bad, not the gears alone.

It's likely the electronics are bad, which is what caused the gears to go bad. I found this post informative:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...85&postcount=5

[Rat3d ///M]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

It's likely the electronics are bad, which is what caused the gears to go bad. I found this post informative:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...85&postcount=5

It's my understanding that it is the other way around (gears go out, causing them to slip and bind, which causes the electronics to overheat and fry the MOSFETs). Not sure though, just regurgitating what I've read

To those that have had to replace throttle actuators, what kind of codes were you getting? Did you always get the throttle actuator codes, or are there cases where you are just getting misfire codes? I am not getting any throttle actuator codes (yet), just the 5-8 misfires, which gives me slight hope.

[gsxrliterbikz]

Originally Posted by ||||||||||

It's my understanding that it is the other way around (gears go out, causing them to slip and bind, which causes the electronics to overheat and fry the MOSFETs). Not sure though, just regurgitating what I've read

To those that have had to replace throttle actuators, what kind of codes were you getting? Did you always get the throttle actuator codes, or are there cases where you are just getting misfire codes? I am not getting any throttle actuator codes (yet), just the 5-8 misfires, which gives me slight hope.

'im in the process of rebuilding right now.
I never read the codes for the limp mode, but symptoms were consistent. When I let off the throttle quickly, it would trigger failsafe.
I could hammer on the gas all I wanted and as long as I rolled off the gas, I was fine. If I tried to shift too quick or blip the gas pedal, it would trigger failsafe.
Couldn't rev match for downshifts.

Ive pulled apart one TA so far and there was a fair amount of plastic dust inside as well as slop in the gears compared to the new gears.

I'll find out later today if it worked.

[Ultra M]

09 e90 with 41k miles , still not replaced

[Rat3d ///M]

Originally Posted by gsxrliterbikz

'im in the process of rebuilding right now.
I never read the codes for the limp mode, but symptoms were consistent. When I let off the throttle quickly, it would trigger failsafe.
I could hammer on the gas all I wanted and as long as I rolled off the gas, I was fine. If I tried to shift too quick or blip the gas pedal, it would trigger failsafe.
Couldn't rev match for downshifts.

Ive pulled apart one TA so far and there was a fair amount of plastic dust inside as well as slop in the gears compared to the new gears.

I'll find out later today if it worked.

Let me know how it goes please. I am stuck between a rock and a hard place. Car is about to go away for the winter, and I wanted to diagnose and fix this before then. I don't want to spend $900 for a throttle actuator and find its not the issue, nor do I want to spend $400 for gears and find out it is the circuit board that is gone. I just wish I could say for certain "______ needs to be replaced" and fork over the cash and be done with it.

[vincE92M3]

Originally Posted by ||||||||||

Let me know how it goes please. I am stuck between a rock and a hard place. Car is about to go away for the winter, and I wanted to diagnose and fix this before then. I don't want to spend $900 for a throttle actuator and find its not the issue, nor do I want to spend $400 for gears and find out it is the circuit board that is gone. I just wish I could say for certain "______ needs to be replaced" and fork over the cash and be done with it.

I think you're going to have to bite the bullet and replace the throttle actuator in question...

[gsxrliterbikz]

Originally Posted by ||||||||||

Let me know how it goes please. I am stuck between a rock and a hard place. Car is about to go away for the winter, and I wanted to diagnose and fix this before then. I don't want to spend $900 for a throttle actuator and find its not the issue, nor do I want to spend $400 for gears and find out it is the circuit board that is gone. I just wish I could say for certain "______ needs to be replaced" and fork over the cash and be done with it.

Well, rebuilding didn't work. Same symptoms. No improvements.
Gonna have to wait till my diagnostic laptop is finished so I can actually scan the codes.

[Honda]

Originally Posted by gsxrliterbikz

Well, rebuilding didn't work. Same symptoms. No improvements.
Gonna have to wait till my diagnostic laptop is finished so I can actually scan the codes.

replacing gears didn't work?

[gsxrliterbikz]

Originally Posted by S65-M3

replacing gears didn't work?

Nope. Car seems healthier, But I suspect thats due to the new spark plugs. Old ones look original at 73k.
Just sent an email to my local dealer to see what new ones are gonna run me. Hopefully I can get new ones by tomorrow. I'm supposed to drive this car from NH to FLA on tues afternoon.

On a side note, I can't believe a dealer would charge more than 200 to replace them (labor).
I think I had the first one out 30 min after starting. Its crazy easy.
I have about 5 hours invested into the job. It was my first time, I rebuilt instead of just replacing them, and I changed all the plugs while the intake was off.
When I replace them (hopefully tues), I think I'll be done in about an hour.

[gsxrliterbikz]

Heres a few more pics
Rebuilt gear replacement



Old main gear



Old lower gear



You can see lots of plastic shavings

[gsxrliterbikz]

Before

http://vid305.photobucket.com/albums...psb1trbq0l.mp4

After

http://vid305.photobucket.com/albums...psvrwbqwlj.mp4

[Rat3d ///M]

That old black half gear looks ate to shit. It's no wonder you were having issues. Looks like you didn't get to it fast enough before the electronics in the actuator started having issues though.

I may just bite the bullet and buy a new actuator, and wait for the other one to go out, and replace it at that time. I hate to dump $900 into a part I know is just going to fail again, but I also hate wasting money and I fear that replacing the gears won't solve my issue like you discovered.

Good luck, hope you get the car back up and running in good health soon.

[gsxrliterbikz]

Originally Posted by ||||||||||

That old black half gear looks ate to shit. It's no wonder you were having issues. Looks like you didn't get to it fast enough before the electronics in the actuator started having issues though.

I may just bite the bullet and buy a new actuator, and wait for the other one to go out, and replace it at that time. I hate to dump $900 into a part I know is just going to fail again, but I also hate wasting money and I fear that replacing the gears won't solve my issue like you discovered.

Good luck, hope you get the car back up and running in good health soon.

Yea, had intermittent failsafe issues for a few months. But with a motor swap on my 7, rebuilding the cooling system and timing chains on my X5, and various other projects, the M was put into daily use for a long time.
New actuators will be in tomorrow, so hopefully by mid day ill be back on the road.
I'll likely toss the rebuilt ones on a shelf till the new ones fail, then just swap the rebuilt gears into the replacement units.
Unless someone wants to pay 225 for rebuilt actuators that have cooked electronics.

[gsxrliterbikz]

So, a little update for here. I'll start a new thread when I have time. After rebuilding, I had the same symptoms. To diagnose more I removed the I take and with the car off and ign on, I moved the throttle. You could watch them move. As I moved the pedal faster and faster you could see a noticeable lag in the drivers side till eventually it would go into limp mode.

So I swapped the actuators and the symptom followed. So I swapped it with a new actuator and no more issues.

[ciges]

After rebuilding actuators with new gears you need to perform engine adaptation reset with capable scan tool or you will have same issues .

[pbonsalb]

Adaption was not the issue that made one actuator move progressively slower. I have done the gear change as well and it has not solved my problems either and I have tried resetting adaption. It appears to me the electronics wear out and I am not entirely sure it is related to the gears failing -- my gears were not badly worn like some I have seen.

[Strick]

2009 e92 DCT with 135k, still running with the originals. No issues.