PCV ?....is it hidden?

[kimiraikkonen]

Originally Posted by Cheylese

Is there only one PCV valve for the 2008 V8 E92?

Yes, only one PCV...located behind Bank 2.

[saxonb]

Found this if anyone is interested: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...11157848155kt/

[DreamTime]

Yeah, it's a PITA to access being on the backside of the engine, but I helped a friend replace his on his E92 about a year ago. We ended up using a friend's borescope camera to look back there and see what in the hell we were doing when we put the new PCV in, which helped greatly. It was a cheap part, but a serious pain to replace.

[kimiraikkonen]

Originally Posted by DreamTime

Yeah, it's a PITA to access being on the backside of the engine, but I helped a friend replace his on his E92 about a year ago. We ended up using a friend's borescope camera to look back there and see what in the hell we were doing when we put the new PCV in, which helped greatly. It was a cheap part, but a serious pain to replace.

Wow congrats, I've been trying to see someone else on the boards that has changed the PCV...so good to hear that someone has been able to do it.

Did you have to remove the windshield cowl (cabin filter section) as well in order to get a hand to access the PCV? I've looked at the layout and it definitely looks like it's trying to unscrew the bolt blind (hence your borescope).

PS. Also, did your friend notice any change after the PCV change?....was he consuming oil?

[DreamTime]

Originally Posted by kimiraikkonen

Wow congrats, I've been trying to see someone else on the boards that has changed the PCV...so good to hear that someone has been able to do it.

Did you have to remove the windshield cowl (cabin filter section) as well in order to get a hand to access the PCV? I've looked at the layout and it definitely looks like it's trying to unscrew the bolt blind (hence your borescope).

PS. Also, did your friend notice any change after the PCV change?....was he consuming oil?

Yes, we did have to remove the windshield cowl to access it.

Tbh, I don't think the thing needed to be replaced. My friend had been having issues for about a month when he replaced the PCV. His car kept going into limp mode and he subsequently replaced parts that seemed to correspond to the codes being pulled. Someone at one point suggested replacing the MAF based on the symptoms, but the S65 does not have one of those (I'm pretty sure). Another person said they thought the PCV replaced the MAF on the S65, so my friend replaced it. It did not solve his limp mode issue. I was just there to lend an extra set of hands throughout this process as I had recently purchased my M3 and I thought it would be a good experience for me to help with/observe parts being replaced on the engine (plus provide beer and moral support lol).

[dask137]

Hey guys,

Any updates on this thread? I'm in the process of replacing my crankcase vent hose but I can't take off the hose of the PCV valve. I can reach it with 2 fingers and push on one side (kind of) but can't get the damn thing off.

Was thinking to force it out but afraid the PCV valve might brake since its made out of plastic too.

Please help!

[dask137]

Nevermind, managed!

[Zark get a spanner]

hi! did your replace the PCV at last??

[bmwpower603]

I did this recently. Was not a bad job at all.

Requires removing some Allen bolts on the rear of the engine that holds a bracket which needs to be removed. And a coolant line will need to be moved over as well.

The tough part might be breaking it loose so you can remove it. I kept the hose attached and pulled on it. (I don’t recommend this unles your replacing that hose) It came right off when I did that.

If your replacing the hose that runs from the pcv valve to the front of the intake. Make sure you route it exactly the way it was.

You can easily replace the coolant cross over pipe gaskets on the back of the engine while your there. They are cheap enough.

[IamFODI]

Originally Posted by bmwpower603

I did this recently. Was not a bad job at all.

Requires removing some Allen bolts on the rear of the engine that holds a bracket which needs to be removed. And a coolant line will need to be moved over as well.

The tough part might be breaking it loose so you can remove it. I kept the hose attached and pulled on it. (I don’t recommend this unles your replacing that hose) It came right off when I did that.

If your replacing the hose that runs from the pcv valve to the front of the intake. Make sure you route it exactly the way it was.

You can easily replace the coolant cross over pipe gaskets on the back of the engine while your there. They are cheap enough.

Thanks for posting this. Questions:

1. You say a coolant pipe has to be "moved". Does it need to be disconnected from the head, or can it be moved without being disconnected?

2. If replacing just the hose and not the valve, does all the same work need to be done, or can some steps be skipped?

[RickyBobby]

Originally Posted by bmwpower603

I did this recently. Was not a bad job at all.

Requires removing some Allen bolts on the rear of the engine that holds a bracket which needs to be removed. And a coolant line will need to be moved over as well.

The tough part might be breaking it loose so you can remove it. I kept the hose attached and pulled on it. (I don’t recommend this unles your replacing that hose) It came right off when I did that.

If your replacing the hose that runs from the pcv valve to the front of the intake. Make sure you route it exactly the way it was.

You can easily replace the coolant cross over pipe gaskets on the back of the engine while your there. They are cheap enough.

Can you elaborate on this? I've got my plenum off and can't really figure out where that hose ends behind the engine or what I can remove to make it "easy" .
Has anyone done this and documented since this old thread was last updated?
Pics would be much appreciated..

[camluczi]

Originally Posted by IamFODI

Thanks for posting this. Questions:

1. You say a coolant pipe has to be "moved". Does it need to be disconnected from the head, or can it be moved without being disconnected?

2. If replacing just the hose and not the valve, does all the same work need to be done, or can some steps be skipped?

Hi - as a new to me M3 owner, and recently having replaced this non-return valve, I wanted to post and share my experience.

For one, this is impossible to get at, or even see, if you only have the plenum off. In the midst of doing valve cover job, I already had the wiring harness and secondary air pump removed. I could finally see this at the back of the block, behind the driver side cylinder head, but still very difficult to access because of the hard pipe in the way.

I do not believe this is a coolant hard pipe, although there is another coolant hard pipe running into the block in very close proximity. However, this should not get in the way. I believe the hard pipe is running from the idle control valve. It is bolted down in place in two places, one directly under the secondary air pump and very easy to remove, the other to the back of the cylinder head, fairly low down and difficult to access, but not impossible. Still not a lot of movement disconnecting this hard pipe in those spots, and the bolt holding the non return valve to the block still difficult to access.

So, the trick, for me, was removing the throttle body (left side) and idle control valve (or you could also remove the line through the quick connect where it runs into the ICV), to give you more room to move the hard pipe. This also gives you much better access to see and get tools in from the backside. It was actually quite easy with the throttle body removed.

For my car, with 155,000kms, this valve still rattled when shaked, so I think it was ok. However, there was a large amount of oil sludge/residue on it, so I am happy to have replaced it - and I was wanting to clean the ICV and throttle bodies anyways as well as replacing injectors and the MAP sensor at the back of the throttle body.

You asked, if just replacing the hose would still require the same amount of steps.. You could probably remove the hose leaving the throttle body in place, if you can get your hands in there and manage to pinch the quick release, but would still have to remove plenum, secondary air and much of the wiring harness, so if you are already doing that, may as well just go a bit further and replace the valve itself as well.

Good luck everyone! It is possible to do, without dropping the engine The secondary air injection control valves might be another story, still difficult to access!