DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

[EJT86]

I've got two of my old non refurbished actuators FS if anyone is interested

[OverRev]

Problem solved, after some more tests I found one of the plug was not plugged in properly and caused the bank 1 hall sensor to fail and hence bank 1 actuator also stopped working. Once I reconnectedthe plug properly, everything worked the way it should. 1 hr quick fix. After removing the plenum and all the wiring so many times in 2 days, I think I can now do the actuator swap with in 2 hrs.

[VictorH]

Just put in driver's side actuator today (had shop install passenger side since I was traveling, plus had limp mode). It's not a bad job, cleaned and lubed the linkage checked all the wires and connections and looks to be good to go. Definitely worthwhile peace of mind.

[misterwell]

Thanks so much for this DIY guide! My passenger side throttle actuator went out at about 60k miles, and it was a $2k repair job. The other actuator lasted until about 95k miles (not sure if it was ever replaced, I bought the car at 45k miles), and my local mechanic said it would take at least a day of labor to fix. After seeing this guide I decided to try the repair myself, and even though I was going slow & careful (this is my first big repair on the M), it only took me about 4.5 hours!

My only additional tips (though others may have covered this in the thread, I wasn't able to read through every single page):

• I was able to take the air intake manifold and plenum off by myself, but when it came to getting the actuator out and tightening the rings when putting the plenum back on, a second pair of hands made it MUCH easier. Heck, my wife could've been the one helping -- all the person needs to do is hold the wiring harness to the side and hold a flashlight when hooking everything back up.

• When unplugging all the connectors from the wiring harness, be careful with plugs that are held together with plastic only (i.e. no metal piece), as they're brittle and can tend to snap. Using an extremely small flathead screwdriver or plastic molding tool is the best way to go. I was close to breaking the plastic on one of the wiring harness connectors closest to the driver's side headlight.

• When re-seating the engine plenum, I found getting the back (i.e. closest to the windshield) of the plenum seated into the cylinders first was critical, because the rubber gaskets can fold down, causing an imperfect seal.

I'm planning on opening up the bad actuator to see what it looks like, and will post pics if there's anything interesting, but I'm sure it's more of the same that people have already posted before.

[harishM32011]

Originally Posted by misterwell

Thanks so much for this DIY guide! My passenger side throttle actuator went out at about 60k miles, and it was a $2k repair job. The other actuator lasted until about 95k miles (not sure if it was ever replaced, I bought the car at 45k miles), and my local mechanic said it would take at least a day of labor to fix. After seeing this guide I decided to try the repair myself, and even though I was going slow & careful (this is my first big repair on the M), it only took me about 4.5 hours!

My only additional tips (though others may have covered this in the thread, I wasn't able to read through every single page):

• I was able to take the air intake manifold and plenum off by myself, but when it came to getting the actuator out and tightening the rings when putting the plenum back on, a second pair of hands made it MUCH easier. Heck, my wife could've been the one helping -- all the person needs to do is hold the wiring harness to the side and hold a flashlight when hooking everything back up.

• When unplugging all the connectors from the wiring harness, be careful with plugs that are held together with plastic only (i.e. no metal piece), as they're brittle and can tend to snap. Using an extremely small flathead screwdriver or plastic molding tool is the best way to go. I was close to breaking the plastic on one of the wiring harness connectors closest to the driver's side headlight.

• When re-seating the engine plenum, I found getting the back (i.e. closest to the windshield) of the plenum seated into the cylinders first was critical, because the rubber gaskets can fold down, causing an imperfect seal.

I'm planning on opening up the bad actuator to see what it looks like, and will post pics if there's anything interesting, but I'm sure it's more of the same that people have already posted before.

My bank 1 actuator is toast as well (at 40k miles) - tearing it down tonight to see what the issue is and if the rebuild kit gears will solve it (at least that is the first step)

[vincE92M3]

Originally Posted by harishM32011

My bank 1 actuator is toast as well (at 40k miles) - tearing it down tonight to see what the issue is and if the rebuild kit gears will solve it (at least that is the first step)

MY 2011 also had one of the TA's go out at 40k. Bank 2 however.

[harishM32011]

Originally Posted by vincE92M3

MY 2011 also had one of the TA's go out at 40k. Bank 2 however.

Did you rebuild or change out the complete actuator assembly?

[vincE92M3]

Originally Posted by harishM32011

Did you rebuild or change out the complete actuator assembly?

New TA. I have extended warranty.

[mikeokimster]

So after initially replacing the bank 1 throttle actuators(late oct) due to very persistent CELs, rapid pulsing idle, and bank 1 faults the car ran better until the weather cooled off

Starting about two weeks ago I started getting intermittent reduced power CELs and bank 1 idle control codes with a irregular pulsing idle. I changed out the idle control module last night and the idle has small irregularities. About 95% fixed

During low speed driving today while taking a turn in the parking lot I do get a slow down and a dip in the rpms which makes the car feel like it is about to stall but recovers before that point but it's enough to have a pretty considerable delay in the initial throttle response while turning.

There are very very slight pulsation a based on the exhaust tone(not drastic enough to see the rpm needle move). I think my bank 2 throttle actuator is about toast soon but that is my speculation at 67k miles and just having been recently supercharged.

Anyone have these symptoms?

[Drift Unit]

Originally Posted by mikeokimster

So after initially replacing the bank 1 throttle actuators(late oct) due to very persistent CELs, rapid pulsing idle, and bank 1 faults the car ran better until the weather cooled off

Starting about two weeks ago I started getting intermittent reduced power CELs and bank 1 idle control codes with a irregular pulsing idle. I changed out the idle control module last night and the idle has small irregularities. About 95% fixed

During low speed driving today while taking a turn in the parking lot I do get a slow down and a dip in the rpms which makes the car feel like it is about to stall but recovers before that point but it's enough to have a pretty considerable delay in the initial throttle response while turning.

There are very very slight pulsation a based on the exhaust tone(not drastic enough to see the rpm needle move). I think my bank 2 throttle actuator is about toast soon but that is my speculation at 67k miles and just having been recently supercharged.

Anyone have these symptoms?

Mine did the same up until last night when bank two went out completely. I am at 46000 miles. I am planning on replacing it this weekend.

[mikeokimster]

Originally Posted by Drift Unit

Mine did the same up until last night when bank two went out completely. I am at 46000 miles. I am planning on replacing it this weekend.

Damn this is exactly what I foresee for me. The car runs very smooth that it feels too good to be true. (It's a sad notion to be predisposed to develop these sensitivities lol)

What was the mileage gap between the two actuators failing?

[harishM32011]

Originally Posted by vincE92M3

New TA. I have extended warranty.

Looks like a new TA for me as well. During the TA test the throttle bodies on bank 1 did not actuate at all. Removed the old TA in about 1.5 hours with an extra set of hands.

Great DIY instructions.

[pbonsalb]

Replacing the gears is a bit of a crapshoot. Might work, might not. Has not worked for me. Unfortunately, there appears to be no way to tell whether it will work. This is true even if the gears are obviously very worn and you think it makes sense they were the problem. If someone came up with an electronics fix, that would be great. A few have tried, but nothing certain has come of it.

[nholmes]

I opened up my failed TVA with 103,000 miles on it last night. Gears don't look bad but the motor has a strange click and of course the diastatic gel is completely roasted. I'm going to guess electronics on this one.

I'll be replacing both of them with new units and upgraded gears from Ian (alpina527):



















Both of sets of linkages sound like this:

http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/...psajeivaju.mp4

Got a friend that's a BMW tech so I hit him up regarding lubrication for the butterfly valves and the linkage, this is what they use:

[cyberyaga]

Hi... I when through the whole thing of replacing the gears on both my throttle actuators.

It seems to have resolved my issue. But, went out today on a humid cold night and the stupid CEL came on again. I ran the car a little bit and turned it off and back on, and it started normally (no limp mode).

As anybody with this same issue found a resolution?

Also, the butterfly valves on the throttle bodies and linkage are squeaky as all hell. Maybe putting some silicone lubricant might alleviate this? or should I just go out and get two actuators from the dealer?

Any help or opinions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Shredicus]

Was cruising ebay when I found a set of gears looking like a hybrid Alpina527's set and odometergears with a very reasonable price tag. About to pick up a pair, as the listing is for 1 side. Still $150 for a full set seems to be a significant savings


***LINK REMOVED READ UPDATE BELOW***

[nholmes]

Originally Posted by Shredicus

Was cruising ebay when I found a set of gears looking very similar to Alpina527's set with a very reasonable price tag. About to pick up a pair, as the listing is for 1 side. Still $150 for a full set seems to be a significant savings


http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M3-E90-E...MAAOSwLnlWnQsu

Yeah, I paid $610 for my set so that seems like a great price!

[Shredicus]

Originally Posted by nholmes

Yeah, I paid $610 for my set so that seems like a great price!

Just placed my order. Int'l shipping brought it up to just a hair over $160 usd after conversion but still seems well worth it

[JonM]

I just finished this mod. My actuators were fine, I removed them to upgrade to Odometer Gears units pre-emptively since I was doing spark plugs anyway. I followed the Youtube on how to replace the gears and it was tedious but not difficult.

I did have a failed unit that I bought on ebay for another purpose... See attached pic. In the failed unit, this is what the gear teeth look like. The bottom line is: if the theory that gear wear causes these to fail is right (and I think it is), it doesn't take much wear to cause the failure.

[javarithms]

Originally Posted by Shredicus

Just placed my order. Int'l shipping brought it up to just a hair over $160 usd after conversion but still seems well worth it

Let us know what you think about the gears and if they are plug and play. I'm interested in doing this as well.

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by javarithms

Let us know what you think about the gears and if they are plug and play. I'm interested in doing this as well.

You need to be patient. The most important thing with mod is, you need to do as soon as you get the error code. If you keep clearing the codes and wait for your sweet time, you will burn the unit, and even after the mod you will get error codes.

I suggest doing the mod as a preventative or as soon as you get codes. Good luck!

[JonM]

Originally Posted by aussiem3

I suggest doing the mod as a preventative or as soon as you get codes. Good luck!

This. Change the gears when you are changing spark plugs.