DIY: S65 Throttle Actuator

[matte]

Hi, just bought a couple new actuators on ebay. Will BMW offer me 2 year parts replacement without a direct receipt from bmw? I checked both actuators have a mfg date in this year it appears. Nightmare is them both going again..

[fasternfaster]

Originally Posted by Shredicus

They're here. Quality seems good, they are very heavy/sturdy feeling and they fit together precisely. Trying to get these in by the end of the day:


Edit:
Here's some pics.
1
2
Significant wear on both banks, especially the half gear.


Surprising I hadn't thrown any codes yet.

New gears in:


Started raining, so I'll get them in the car tomorrow.

Notes: Hardest part by far was pressing the press-fit washer on to the new half gear's shaft. I used a method similar to the bmwbox article I linked above, but with a large C-clamp since I dont have a vice. This made it much trickier to line everything up, but I eventually got them on. I'd recommend using a little lube on the shaft /washer before trying to press the washer on, due to the fact that the new shaft hasn't had a washer fitted to it, and may be slightly thicker

Damn that sounds dirty

**BIG UPDATE:**

Well, installed these and the car was pissed. Mind you I had no error codes before; doing this retroactively. Threw misfire code on all cylinders, actuator codes, extremely rough idle and limp mode. Went back through several times and reinstalled everything making sure I didn't miss a connector, and everything looks as it should. So my guess is these gears are junk. Ordered a set of odometergears from the above link for a little under $110 shipped and I'm going to give those a shot and if that fixes this fiasco obviously it will be a case of these gears being faulty. Will post back with updates...

Has anyone else tried these?! I recently had my TA crap out and i ordered and installed the gears from OdometerGears per their instructions which are not very good...

DO NOT do what they say to get the "bearing" seated. i did exactly what they said and ended up snapping the threads off the shaft! i thought i was done for since i had already pinned the gear to the shaft and i didnt have another lucky for me i thought of simply tack welding the arm to the nub of the shaft that was still sticking out. I paid a local body shop $20 to tack it in place.

There is a better way to seat the giant washer/bearing to the shaft. it includes a vice and a few properly placed hammer strikes on the side with the gear, just make sure you dont hit the gear!!!


Now here is my BIG PROBLEM with OdometerGears.. 2 months after the fix.. everything was working great.. then all of a sudden one of the actuators failed!

the codes were saying something about a return spring not working etc.

Once i took the plenum off and tried to cycle the throttles by hand, i could immediately feel that one of the TA was not being engaged internally and then i felt that the shaft with the arm was simply sliding out of the actuator.. this is what pinning the gear is supposed to prevent.

I took the actuator apart and found my new OdometerGears gear shattered into 4 pieces with the pin sheared, half in the shaft half just bouncing around!!!

It became obvious to me that the material or construction or pinning mechanism led to this failure. This gear needs to be much more beefy to be mounted this way.

lucky for me i had a spare TA body with the original gear on the shaft so i just stuck that in and was good to go for a while, but i wanted to get my now broken TA fixed up so i could have another replacement ready

I was just going to order another gear set from Odometergears since what choice to i really have!? until i saw these gears on ebay.. they looked beefy! and they come premounted on a shaft! WIN/WIN..

i ordered these and installed them into my TA, but i have not tried it out since my car is all put back together and just waiting for the next fail I expect that the other gear will probably crack/shatter soon too. I will add pictures later for dramatic effect.

[drummer20]

I have these i6 gears in one of my TAs. They have been working fine for about 2k miles so far. Although, I did them preventatively before any codes were thrown.

Also I did the same damn thing and I snapped the threads off following the Odometers gears instructions. That's why I had to buy an i6 gear at all. I broke my shaft :-( (heh phrasing) The i6 gears are really way easier to install. good luck!

[Ron T in KY]

2008 M3 E92 Sedan, 69K miles. Got all the dash lights and limp mode. Codes said it was throttle actuators. Ordered I6 gears from England, installed them, cleared codes with iCarly and all seemed OK. Got a mile from house and went back to limp mode.

Pulled actuators out and replaced all 10 transistors, all back together and got 2 miles out and went into limp mode. Stopped, read codes.

Motor Control: Engine / Motor Failure detection cyl.12 Code: 002749
Throttle valve actuator control monitor Code: 002B16 check at lower top

Code: 002B57 02 sensor aging, Bank 2: Period Code: 002725
Intake air temperature sensor bank 1

Code: 002AFB ABS / DSC / Brake: Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC Engine torque is not adjustable CAN Code: 005E19

Cleared codes and car ran fine for 15 miles of city driving and a stop, then highway home.

Drove to work next morning and it went into limp mode again after warmed up and on highway. Reset itself after I turned car off, removed key and restarted.

On my way home got 2 miles to highway and it goes limp mode again, won't reset by shutting car down & removing key.

Motor Control: Engine / Motor Failure detection cyl.12 Code:

002749 Throttle valve actuator control monitor

Code: 002B16 check at lower top Code: 002B57

SO anyone have a clue as to why this isn't working? Do I need a Indy shop or better software to reset?

It needs new battery, not bad and I had full charge and monitor charging system, it is charging at 13.56 to 14.4 VDC. So this shouldn't impact things, but somehow could. So new battery tomorrow.

Faultcode: Failure detection cyl.8
Faultset 1:
(appeared at: 309288.0km)
AD converter probe signal before Kat Bank 2:
326400000.00 mV
Engine speed:
63747.00 U/min
corr filtered AD value probe resistance before Kat Bank 2:
1045000.00 mV
relative stuffing:
51971.00 -



Faultcode: 02 sensor aging, Bank 2: Period
Faultset 1:
(appeared at: 311400.0km)
ATIC42 diagnostic probe before Kat Bank 2:
4352.00 -
ATIC42 Pindiagnose probe before Kat Bank 2:
43520.00 -
Battery voltage KL87:
144.00 Volt
Engine speed:
7168.00 U/min

Last read
Faultcode: Throttle valve actuator control monitor
Faultset 1:
(appeared at: 303128.0km)
Battery voltage KL87:
142.00 Volt
Throttle Diagnostic Status Bank 2:
0.00 0-n
Throttle setpoint Bank 2:
144.00 %
Engine speed:
7424.00 U/min

Faultcode: check at lower top
Faultset 1:
(appeared at: 303128.0km)
Battery voltage KL87:
36352.00 Volt
Engine speed:
7432.00 U/min
Security Concept Cause:
1.00 0-n
relative stuffing:
11008.00 -

[drummer20]

I think I have read a few times on this forum somewhere that when a battery starts to go end of life, the car will throw a whole bunch of odd codes. Since it sounds like you are on a path to swap it anyways, I would wait to swap that before doing anything else. Try lubing those linkages too

[W///]

Just confirmed my Bank2 TA went out after I read the codes. So these lasted all the way to 88k miles, while the first one lasted until about 60k.

[Ron T in KY]

Replaced The battery, registered it, everything was fine at idle, drove 2 miles and limp mode again, reset fine with shutting down the car and restarting but came back several miles later... That time I had trouble getting it to clear even with Carly resetting the faults.

002749 Throttle valve actuator control monitor Code: 002B16 check at lower top

Code: 002AFB ABS / DSC / Brake: Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC Engine torque is not adjustable CAN Code: 005E19

[Rajmun340]

Do you have to remove the airbox first to remove the engine cover ? I just need to access the throttle actuator link arms for a dry lubrification to prevent the Throttle actuator failure issue. I have read that's the reason the TA gears go bad too much load from loss of lubricant on those rotating arms.

[drummer20]

Yes you must remove the airbox and the big black intake plenum. Use 3m dry silicone spray. Remember that lube you will probably only extend the lifetime of your actuators. It's likely that the internal gears will still wear out eventually. Therefore you'll want to check the internal gears occasionally if you really want to avoid buying new actuators. And them replace them when the wear is excessive. It's a pain but it might save you some cash.

I actually try and lube my actuators every 6-12 months. I just lubed them this last weekend! I feel safer haha

[Rajmun340]

Originally Posted by drummer20

Yes you must remove the airbox and the big black intake plenum. Use 3m dry silicone spray. Remember that lube you will probably only extend the lifetime of your actuators. It's likely that the internal gears will still wear out eventually. Therefore you'll want to check the internal gears occasionally if you really want to avoid buying new actuators. And them replace them when the wear is excessive. It's a pain but it might save you some cash.

I actually try and lube my actuators every 6-12 months. I just lubed them this last weekend! I feel safer haha

Really appreciated your answer ! You seem to think the gears wear out by themselves which is possible but I tend to think it's got to do with the load. I intend to lubricate them like you do and don't expect to have the issue ever.

btw i have two abnormal behaviors but probably not TA related ?
- if car parked and idling i notice every 40 sec or so it will suddenly loose rpm and recover immediately.
- When starting to move the car with the engine cold there are fairly big hesitations as I engage the manual clutch this will cause the car to shake real good but I've learned to workaround it so I can manage. When the car is warm it does not happen. Could it be that the actuators arms are sticky when the car sat overnight ?

[drummer20]

Not sure about the first one, could be so many things. All I can say is I started to notice the engine missing sometimes and it turned out cylinder 3 ignition coil was going bad...replaced it...working great for thousands of miles now.

The second one is completely normal. It's the cold start cycle to warm up the cats to pass emissions testing. I have read a lot of posts on here about it. It makes the car stutter a bit, you can overcome with more gas and really easing the clutch out... once you expect it. Some people have reprogrammed to not do the cold cycle and it gets rid of it but it doesn't bother me too much.

[Rajmun340]

Originally Posted by drummer20

Not sure about the first one, could be so many things. All I can say is I started to notice the engine missing sometimes and it turned out cylinder 3 ignition coil was going bad...replaced it...working great for thousands of miles now.

The second one is completely normal. It's the cold start cycle to warm up the cats to pass emissions testing. I have read a lot of posts on here about it. It makes the car stutter a bit, you can overcome with more gas and really easing the clutch out... once you expect it. Some people have reprogrammed to not do the cold cycle and it gets rid of it but it doesn't bother me too much.

I've read that too but I don't buy it anymore. If i wait out 3 min until the cold start cycle ends and rpm drops to ~600-700 rpm and only then move the car it will still stutter and buck the same. Yes I've learn to workaround it clutching it out but anyone new to the car will look like a teenager who drives a manual car for the first time and will swear at the car.

[pbonsalb]

Maybe a fuel pressure sensor. There are two. Codes would help. I am surprised you don't have any.

[Ron T in KY]

I got the evil limp mode, it cleared by shutting down and restarting but I went to look why I was getting this before anything ugly happened. Found this great thread and promptly went looking for gears. I bought the I6 ones and installed them, made sure I had good clearance on shaft pressed on bushing, lubed the linkage with Super Lube, dries to a Teflon powder, put her back together and all seemed good. Got a mile from the house and limp mode returned.

I had cleared all the codes with Carly first, and a shut down did reset the fault, I did some errands for about 15 miles of city & highway, and it was all good. Monday I leave for work and a mile from home it throws a code again. Take it home and order 12 transistors from Mouser. Replace all 10 transistors on the boards, check clearances again, reassemble. I work at an electronics repair company so I had one of my techs do the transistor swap, nice clean job, no overheating. resealed with Conformal coating. None of the transistors showed any sign of overheating but this was the next step to the fix in this thread.

Cleared the codes and went for test run, got 2 miles before it threw codes again. No indication of what bank so is this really the actuator???

002749 Throttle valve actuator control monitor Code: 002B16 check at lower

Code: 002AFB ABS / DSC / Brake: Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC Engine torque is not adjustable CAN Code: 005E19

I am assuming that the Engine torque not adjustable is due to the Throttle actuator fault.

So is this still the Actuator failing or is it the throttle position sensor at the end of the throttle body row?

I'm at the point of just wanting this over with by buying a new actuator, but if that isn't the fix I really don't want to spend $900 on a new actuator and still have the problem....

[drummer20]

well I got a throttle actuator code. Bank 1 failed pre drive linkage test according to the BMW GT1 DIS. I opened the actuator and the half moon gear i installed from odometer gears was broken. Lasted ~2000 miles, it's possible i cracked it slightly mounting it. But I probably caused it's demise in another way. I put 3M silicone wet lube on the actuator shaft when I swapped the gears inside the housing and it has gummed up the needle bearings. They are so gummed the internal spring has a hard time returning the gear to the start position now. This means much more force is being delivered to move the gears, adding stress to the gears. So ordered some new bearings to put in there. But it has got me thinking that maybe the bearings are getting worn in other's actuators and it's affecting the dynamics of the actuation. That might be why some seemingly operationally fine units still throw codes. i haven't read of anyone trying to replace the bearings.

Jeff at odometer gears is still top notch, he is honoring his warranty and providing a new gear. i'll let you guys know how the bearing swap goes.

it may be worth mentioning that the i6 automotive gears are in the other actuator and they appear to be able to handle the higher stress at least a bit longer. Also there is no risk of cracking a gear mounting it since it's already mounted.

[drummer20]

Originally Posted by Ron T in KY

I got the evil limp mode, it cleared by shutting down and restarting but I went to look why I was getting this before anything ugly happened. Found this great thread and promptly went looking for gears. I bought the I6 ones and installed them, made sure I had good clearance on shaft pressed on bushing, lubed the linkage with Super Lube, dries to a Teflon powder, put her back together and all seemed good. Got a mile from the house and limp mode returned.

I had cleared all the codes with Carly first, and a shut down did reset the fault, I did some errands for about 15 miles of city & highway, and it was all good. Monday I leave for work and a mile from home it throws a code again. Take it home and order 12 transistors from Mouser. Replace all 10 transistors on the boards, check clearances again, reassemble. I work at an electronics repair company so I had one of my techs do the transistor swap, nice clean job, no overheating. resealed with Conformal coating. None of the transistors showed any sign of overheating but this was the next step to the fix in this thread.

Cleared the codes and went for test run, got 2 miles before it threw codes again. No indication of what bank so is this really the actuator???

002749 Throttle valve actuator control monitor Code: 002B16 check at lower

Code: 002AFB ABS / DSC / Brake: Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC Engine torque is not adjustable CAN Code: 005E19

I am assuming that the Engine torque not adjustable is due to the Throttle actuator fault.

So is this still the Actuator failing or is it the throttle position sensor at the end of the throttle body row?

I'm at the point of just wanting this over with by buying a new actuator, but if that isn't the fix I really don't want to spend $900 on a new actuator and still have the problem....

As far as i know, it's almost always the actuator as opposed to the TP sensor.

The DSC error is pretty standard sidekick for any TA code so doesn't really help.

Well if you want to keep trying I posted a pretty detailed list of other electronics on the board that you can try replacing in post #582 of this thread.

Or now there is a company that exchanges just the circuit boards if you want to go that route...$345 each though and you already did so much
http://www.rebuild.org.uk/circuitboard/
They also have a repair service if you want to mail it to them to fix.
Although i think i covered most if not all of what they swap on the board in my post #582.

by the way, i ordered the shaft needle bearings from here https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-HK1012-2RS-INA.php

[W///]

I'm just going to bite the bullet and order a new actuator from FCP. They have lifetime warranty on parts and since I don't ever plan on selling this car, I'll just keep returning it when it fails.

[AnotherM3]

Originally Posted by W///

I'm just going to bite the bullet and order a new actuator from FCP. They have lifetime warranty on parts and since I don't ever plan on selling this car, I'll just keep returning it when it fails.

Good to know about the lifetime warranty!

[IanMan]

Okay, I keep getting conflicting information from people. I just purchased an E90 M3 and the previous owner says he had the gears replaced in my right cylinder bank actuator, however it's throwing codes. Do the boards go bad in these too or just the gears?

[Z K]

Given the throttle actuators last 60k miles and it isn't a fatal problem unlike rod bearings, I'd just replace it every 60k miles.

I usually drive 5-10k miles a year on the M3 so it'll be at least 6 years before I'd have to change it again.

[drummer20]

Originally Posted by IanMan

Okay, I keep getting conflicting information from people. I just purchased an E90 M3 and the previous owner says he had the gears replaced in my right cylinder bank actuator, however it's throwing codes. Do the boards go bad in these too or just the gears?

The boards go bad too, but some have brought them back to life.

[drummer20]

Well I changed the bearings in one of my throttle actuators. It wasn't too hard.

I used this to pull them out it's a 10mm with 3lb slide hammer style https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the bearings from here:
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-HK1012-2RS-INA.php Actually these are the -FPM option bearings, so they are a perfect replacement.

Then i just used a standard vise for the outer bearing and a c-clamp to put the inner bearing back in.
It's been running fine for about a week, couple hundred miles.


I found this document that talks about bearings in throttle actuators
http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedi...pi15_de_us.pdf

It actually specifically says don't get any silicone on your throttle actuator bearings. Assemble in a silicone free environment. The bearings come pre-lubricated with some grease I noticed. I now think it is very unwise to spray the 3M silicone spray on the throttle linkages. The silicone is not helping the bearings, we can be sure of that. Sure we are cleaning some dust off but it's not worth it....a misting spray would probably be just as good.

To recap, my odometer gears cracked just 2 days after i soaked my throttle linkages with that 3M dry silicone spray for the second time this year. There is really no way to completely remove silicone either. Note that the odometer gear had been running fine for over 2000 miles before that.

Also there a bit of verbage in there about how important the bearing are to accurate throttle actuation.