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      12-13-2018, 02:51 PM   #1
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How to weed out the bad ones

I'm still about a month out before I can pull the trigger but I wanted to do my homework and have an idea of what to look for. I've been reading different buying guide posts but wanted to get a better idea by giving an example.

Here is an E92 that matches my "Need" list.

https://www.avonautobrokers.com/1197...reDetails.aspx

If it were January, I would inquire more.
Good Condition, from what I can tell from the pics. One of the wheels seems a bit banged up
Good Mileage
Not my choice of seat color but I could live with it
1 Owner

Some things that a bit worrying are the fact its at a used car dealer, the sticker on the side, and the potential of it not having service records.

What are your thoughts on this car and what would you pay?
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      12-13-2018, 03:04 PM   #2
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One bit of advice I would give. Dont buy any car you cant get a service history on. Get a pre purchase inspection from a good indy or dealer. Run the car fax (though they are notorious for not having all accidents/service reported to them). Make sure the title is free of encumbrances. Then if its has specs you can deal with pull the trigger.
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      12-13-2018, 03:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mvy View Post
One bit of advice I would give. Dont buy any car you cant get a service history on. Get a pre purchase inspection from a good indy or dealer. Run the car fax (though they are notorious for not having all accidents/service reported to them). Make sure the title is free of encumbrances. Then if its has specs you can deal with pull the trigger.
Assuming it had service records and PPI checked out, is the linked car above a good buy for that price?
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      12-13-2018, 03:34 PM   #4
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Here's some things to check for off the top of my head.
1) How's the wear on the driver side bolster
2) How's the front bumper under tray looking like? Esp the two corner felt trays
3) Is the interior black rubber coating scratched in multiple areas?
4) Buy a scan tool to check for ghost codes
5) Test drive the car and check for driveshaft slop or clunk
6) If it's a private sale buy the seller if he's a OCD guy dropping $$ endlessly to keep it clean.
7) Def get a PPI done
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      12-13-2018, 06:11 PM   #5
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You're in Florida, the car's in Massachusetts. As previous posts have said, get a PPI done at a local dealership. When you make arrangements for the inspection, tell the sevice tech anything that you are specifically concerned about. I would also definitely ask for a compression test, a couple hundred extra but worth every penny. I would also pay for an oil change and ask to have the oil and filter inspected for metal. Also call the Better Business Bureau in the Avon Ma. area to check the dealers reputation. I bought an e90 M3 in Va a couple years ago. The car checked out !00%, including compression, but the dealer never paid HIS lender who held the title. Took me 9 months to get it straightened out. Good luck.
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      12-13-2018, 10:19 PM   #6
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https://www.carmax.com/search#BT=0&D...ey=2&Zip=99212

Get their warranty if you are worried about issues for the next 5 yrs
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      12-13-2018, 10:22 PM   #7
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It's not that I'm worried about it breaking, it's more what to look for.

I linked a car as an example of one I would possibly look into. If this was a car you were buying, what are your thoughts on it from just the listing and the autocheck? Is it worth the price their asking?
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      12-13-2018, 11:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRAVE View Post
It's not that I'm worried about it breaking, it's more what to look for.

I linked a car as an example of one I would possibly look into. If this was a car you were buying, what are your thoughts on it from just the listing and the autocheck? Is it worth the price their asking?
you could probably negotiate a little bit, but more or less it's fine. i think ppi from a reputable shop is the real key.
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      12-14-2018, 04:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRAVE View Post
Assuming it had service records and PPI checked out, is the linked car above a good buy for that price?
If it checks out, id say 28-29 is the price point I would shoot for unless its literally perfect cosmetically. Then 30. Its the middle of winter in MA, so you have some bargaining power to get them off the 32k price.
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      12-14-2018, 08:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mvy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by XRAVE View Post
Assuming it had service records and PPI checked out, is the linked car above a good buy for that price?
If it checks out, id say 28-29 is the price point I would shoot for unless its literally perfect cosmetically. Then 30. Its the middle of winter in MA, so you have some bargaining power to get them off the 32k price.
Great, thanks for the advice
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      12-14-2018, 09:04 PM   #11
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      12-15-2018, 06:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mvy View Post
One bit of advice I would give. Dont buy any car you cant get a service history on. Get a pre purchase inspection from a good indy or dealer. Run the car fax (though they are notorious for not having all accidents/service reported to them). Make sure the title is free of encumbrances. Then if its has specs you can deal with pull the trigger.
Why does title have to not have encumbrances on them? I have sold a multitude of cars still owing money on them.

Dave
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      12-17-2018, 07:02 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave07997S View Post
Why does title have to not have encumbrances on them? I have sold a multitude of cars still owing money on them.

Dave
I was thinking about scenarios like that in post #5. A free and clear title makes everything go smoother. I dont like dealing with a seller/dealer who might not pay a bank and then leave me dealing with a title issue for 9 months. Others experience may vary.
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      12-17-2018, 08:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3dliner View Post
Here's some things to check for off the top of my head.
1) How's the wear on the driver side bolster
2) How's the front bumper under tray looking like? Esp the two corner felt trays
3) Is the interior black rubber coating scratched in multiple areas?
4) Buy a scan tool to check for ghost codes
5) Test drive the car and check for driveshaft slop or clunk
6) If it's a private sale buy the seller if he's a OCD guy dropping $$ endlessly to keep it clean.
7) Def get a PPI done
+1 just add do the PPI somewhere reputable, not one of those 9.99 mobile come to your location offers on the internet where someone shows up onsite in a van and makes sure tires aren't flat and there's an engine under the hood. I did mine at a local dealer to the purchase location, seller was nice enough to drop it off there for me and I figure anyone interested in a fair sale should be happy to do so.
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      12-19-2018, 03:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mvy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave07997S View Post
Why does title have to not have encumbrances on them? I have sold a multitude of cars still owing money on them.

Dave
I was thinking about scenarios like that in post #5. A free and clear title makes everything go smoother. I dont like dealing with a seller/dealer who might not pay a bank and then leave me dealing with a title issue for 9 months. Others experience may vary.
When you say free and clear, you mean that they have paid off the bank and have title in hand?

I've never purchased a used car so this process is new to me. Assuming the car will be purchased out of state, I'm not even really sure what tag to put on the car or what paperwork I would get from the seller that proves I purchased the car.
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      12-23-2018, 06:42 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRAVE View Post
When you say free and clear, you mean that they have paid off the bank and have title in hand?

I've never purchased a used car so this process is new to me. Assuming the car will be purchased out of state, I'm not even really sure what tag to put on the car or what paperwork I would get from the seller that proves I purchased the car.
Correct. I like to deal with a seller who can show me a physical piece of paper title that has no bank ownership. It just means the transaction is complete once you hand over the money. Otherwise, you can be tied up for weeks waiting for pay off and getting a hold of your title. Others may not be so cautious about this, but I have had some horror stories of my own with titles and wont be dealing with a title that has a bank owner on it again unless we do the deal at the bank and I can see the loan pay off happen.
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      12-24-2018, 07:38 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mvy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by XRAVE View Post
When you say free and clear, you mean that they have paid off the bank and have title in hand?

I've never purchased a used car so this process is new to me. Assuming the car will be purchased out of state, I'm not even really sure what tag to put on the car or what paperwork I would get from the seller that proves I purchased the car.
Correct. I like to deal with a seller who can show me a physical piece of paper title that has no bank ownership. It just means the transaction is complete once you hand over the money. Otherwise, you can be tied up for weeks waiting for pay off and getting a hold of your title. Others may not be so cautious about this, but I have had some horror stories of my own with titles and wont be dealing with a title that has a bank owner on it again unless we do the deal at the bank and I can see the loan pay off happen.
I'll make sure to look out for that, thank you
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      12-24-2018, 08:20 AM   #18
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One last call out for you. You usually have several weeks to register a car from out of state assuming the car you purchased is up to date registration wise. You can legally drive the car from where you bought it to where you live and deal with registration once you get there. Its a good idea to have some proof with you in case you get pulled over. Along with the title (which once signed is probably all you need to show ownership), I draft a bill of sale to have the buyer sign so if I get pulled over on the way I have some proof of me purchasing the car. I also take a photo of the cashiers check as proof of purchase. Most cops will not be concerned about theft of the vehicle with all that evidence that you purchased the car.
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      12-24-2018, 08:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
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One last call out for you. You usually have several weeks to register a car from out of state assuming the car you purchased is up to date registration wise. You can legally drive the car from where you bought it to where you live and deal with registration once you get there. Its a good idea to have some proof with you in case you get pulled over. Along with the title (which once signed is probably all you need to show ownership), I draft a bill of sale to have the buyer sign so if I get pulled over on the way I have some proof of me purchasing the car. I also take a photo of the cashiers check as proof of purchase. Most cops will not be concerned with all that evidence that you purchased the car.
So just drive without a licenses plate? I've also read sometimes the seller will let you keep their plate, is that legal?
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      12-24-2018, 08:51 AM   #20
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I bought mine in VA and drove to GA. The seller left the plate on the car. There are some state specific rules where a buyer might take the plate so not sure of your situation. Thats why you want the supporting documentation just in case to show its your car.
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      12-28-2018, 11:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mvy View Post
Correct. I like to deal with a seller who can show me a physical piece of paper title that has no bank ownership. It just means the transaction is complete once you hand over the money. Otherwise, you can be tied up for weeks waiting for pay off and getting a hold of your title. Others may not be so cautious about this, but I have had some horror stories of my own with titles and wont be dealing with a title that has a bank owner on it again unless we do the deal at the bank and I can see the loan pay off happen.
Easily avoided...just the buyer and seller go to fedex with the payoff paperwork in hand along with cashier check and physically watch him send it. I have sold 7 cars this way all with no issues.

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      12-29-2018, 09:48 AM   #22
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