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04-05-2018, 01:24 PM | #24 |
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110A is massive, bit surprising. Search down the spec and check what the poor bugger can deliver Max.
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04-05-2018, 03:31 PM | #26 |
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Here is what my report pulled. Also a pic for lawrence1 of the Battery! My bad, I thought it was grey/white but its black.
Edit: what does the "one before last mileage " indicate?
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04-05-2018, 03:38 PM | #28 |
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The values are in KM, if so its saying it was last changed @ ~40K miles ago? I've had the car for about 35K miles. Hard to know for sure since I may not have gotten that record but I could verify by pulling the battery.
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04-05-2018, 03:41 PM | #29 |
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I converted to miles. About a 100k KM difference from your last batt registration which = 62k miles
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04-05-2018, 03:45 PM | #30 |
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I see. So its starting to look like PO went to dealer, got it replaced, dealer charged for registration but didn't (lol, assumptions...) register the battery and it last read a registered battery @ ~65KMs.
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04-05-2018, 04:24 PM | #31 |
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The car only shows one battery replacement around 45k miles. None before or after. Looks like you're at 100k+ now so this may have been the 2nd replacement that wasn't registered. Either way, that battery is likely on its last leg now due to overcharging. This is also evident from the time counter.
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04-05-2018, 05:13 PM | #32 |
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did all e9x m3 come with AGM batteries? MY11 e90 m3 has the white OE battery( lead acid), which has been showing increased discharge on the dash every morning for about 2 months. figured it was original and needed to be replaced...but now im thinking it was replaced and maybe not coded in correctly.
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04-05-2018, 05:36 PM | #33 | |
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Quote:
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04-05-2018, 05:45 PM | #34 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...62&series=E90N
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04-06-2018, 11:46 AM | #35 |
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Can someone with Carly run a log when they start their car for the voltage/current draw similar to what I have here?
This morning I connect and started the log before I even turned ignition on here. You can see what's going on from the numbers. I'd like to make sure a normal functioning battery/alternator gives similar results. What is interesting is line 29 on this is when I believe I got the error message. "Electrical System Malfunction" Voltage took a dip and so did the current then recovered instantly. Sounds like I may be picking a new battery and registering it. And see if this keeps happening. Unless someone thinks this could be alternator related and I should start with that. Additionally... I trigged my odometer tamper dot for the rest of the drive to work. It has since been gone!
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04-06-2018, 12:31 PM | #36 |
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If it is a genuine BMW battery there should be a date code stamped on the positive terminal.
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04-11-2018, 01:38 AM | #37 |
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Doesn't appear to be a battery issue. Fluctuations (even from 12.2 to 14.7v) are normal depending on the build and equipment.
Given there is a tamper dot, it appears that it's likely a communication bus issue. It could be a faulty unit on the bus, a problem with the junction box (as it's the main communication hub), or wiring. If you diagnose/query modules available for communication, does the number of control units vary, or is it consistent? The last car that had strange issues like this turned out to be the junction box. On a side note, I think we have 20 brand new ones in stock
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04-11-2018, 11:49 AM | #38 | |
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Since the last time this happened; Monday morning, I belive, about 4 times right after starting up and going, I didn't clear the fault codes. This morning I ran a scan, downloaded the codes and then cleared. Drove the car to work and scanned again once there. The issue didn't happen this morning but here are the exact same codes that popped up this morning that were also stored from Monday till this morning, prior to leaving for work. Airbag Fault Code: 00C944 Fault Explanation:Bus line fault - General. Instrument cluster / Kombiinstrument Fault Code: 00E104 Fault Explanation:CAN LOW ERROR Central info display / Zentrales Display Fault Code: 00E5C4 Fault Explanation:Communication: Can Low Air conditioning / Klimaanlage Fault Code: 00E704 Fault Explanation:CAN-BUS. physical bus error CAS Fault Code: 00D904 Fault Explanation:K CAN line fault Audio/Navi/Communication MASK Fault Code: 00E1CC Fault Explanation:: Device has not decreased the monitoring message or confirmed (Error Monitoring) / A device did not get a monitor message or answer (Error Monitoring). Fault Code: 00E1C4 Fault Explanation::K-CAN line fault / 0xE1C4: CAN physical bus errors Fault Code: 00E1C7 Fault Explanation::K-CAN communication error / 0xE1C7: CAN bus communication error Seats / Sitze Fault Code: 00E444 Fault Explanation:K-CAN: bus line fault Junction Box Passenger / Beifahrer Fault Code: 00C908 Fault Explanation::Controller PT-CAN, Bus Off / K-CAN COMMUNICATION: OPERATION Wire / K CAN Single Wire OPERATION Fault Code: 00C907 Fault Explanation:K CAN COMMUNICATION Passive Go System Fault Code: 00D2C4 Fault Explanation:K CAN Line Failure Again, these didn't trigger anything while driving. No error messages, car drove beautifully. I hate electrical gremlins like this! Might it be a good idea to take the car in for the Junction Box + cable recall, see if once it comes back I have similar issues? My car is an 09, and I believe falls under that. I have not taken the car in for since, until now, didn't show signs of electrical issues like this.
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12-18-2019, 03:13 PM | #39 |
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This thread completely dropped off my list but wanted to update the thread incase someone has similar issues. However slim the changes are of someone having the same issues as me. But for me it was a kinked wire that lead to the back of the intrument cluster.
For some time after this thread the issue never occured and about a year later it started happening again. This time more often. At first I thought it was the Power supply cable that came to the fuse box in the glove box so I was playing around in that area and nothing.... I do have a Escort 9500 with radar jammers that hard wired and the shop that installed it also added a LED in the corner, right bottom, of the instrument cluster. I wanted to rule out that wasnt causing me anything and I disconnected the unit and when I got to pulling the instrument cluster to check the LED light in there I saw that the last person (assuming installer as I have not had to take my car in where the instrument cluster needed removal) simply plugged everything back in, and just just forced the cluster back in the dash all while pushing the wire loom by force instead of carefully guiding it in the natural direction its installed from the factory. Wires were not broken but some were had some bad bends. I didnt want to redo the wires so I first cleaned and routed them as they need to be and drove the car for a week and it went from getting the issue every 30 seconds (since the last day it did it) to not once. I went back in the following weekend and sorta taped the wires at the bends to help them from kinking up again in the future. It's been about 7-9 months since this fix and never happened again.
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12-19-2019, 05:18 PM | #40 |
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