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      12-13-2018, 11:35 AM   #1
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Another Rod Bearing Thread- New Rod Bearings at 15K Miles

Hi there everyone! After owning my 2011 M3 for 5+ years, I decided to go ahead and do the rod bearings in conjunction with a bunch of other work; also posted on here and no longer lurking. I went with BE bearings and ARP bolts. You can see some wear on the bearings. Probably overkill to do the job, but hey, now I have a much better peace of mind in keeping her for many years to come.

Other work I had done: Vorshlag camber plates, CSF cooling all around, MFactory carbon fiber driveshaft, Turner Motorsport motor mounts, and a transmission fluid flush.

She came out great, I just have to break-in the bearings for 1k miles.

Eventually I may supercharge her if the right deal comes along.

Thanks for looking!
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      12-13-2018, 11:54 AM   #2
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It’s going to take you 6 months to break in those bearings at the rate you drive. Bearings actually don’t need any break in, so you don’t have to wait 6 months to enjoy your car.
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      12-13-2018, 11:59 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
It’s going to take you 6 months to break in those bearings at the rate you drive. Bearings actually don’t need any break in, so you don’t have to wait 6 months to enjoy your car.
+1

No break in required. Drive as desired and do an oil change earlier than usual.
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      12-13-2018, 12:34 PM   #4
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There is no break after a rod bearing replacement service, I just simply recommend to do your first oil change after the service quicker than you normally would to ensure everything comes out and after that go back to 5k mile intervals.
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      12-13-2018, 05:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malek@MRF View Post
There is no break after a rod bearing replacement service, I just simply recommend to do your first oil change after the service quicker than you normally would to ensure everything comes out and after that go back to 5k mile intervals.
Interesting, my install place gave me a whole sheet on the break in period. Stay under 4500 RPM for 1k miles, do not aggressively downshift, and change oil 3k miles.
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      12-13-2018, 05:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBimmer2011 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malek@MRF View Post
There is no break after a rod bearing replacement service, I just simply recommend to do your first oil change after the service quicker than you normally would to ensure everything comes out and after that go back to 5k mile intervals.
Interesting, my install place gave me a whole sheet on the break in period. Stay under 4500 RPM for 1k miles, do not aggressively downshift, and change oil 3k miles.
Very odd that they said that... wonder why? do they not know the basics of how they work?
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      12-13-2018, 05:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
Very odd that they said that... wonder why? do they not know the basics of how they work?
With that reasoning I wouldn’t trust them to do rod bearings
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      12-13-2018, 05:58 PM   #8
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I hear you. They said they do 2-3 per month in the DC area. I wasn't 100% happy with them today but they did okay. They also had major heartache on anything but OEM battery. Here's their instructions on the bearings:
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      12-13-2018, 06:15 PM   #9
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They are being over zealous and cautious, there is no logical reason for it.
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      12-13-2018, 07:10 PM   #10
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mbimmer, I also have a 2011 e90 and got a quote from RRT to do mine. I have 75k but will wait closer to 80k. How was their service?
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      12-13-2018, 07:12 PM   #11
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Hey OP, can you specifically ask your shop where they acquired this info? Malek@MRF is one of the premier installers and he has never heard of this. Nor have any of us reading this. To give the shop the benefit of the doubt, please ask them where they attained this info from. If it is their own list then that is fine if they feel there should be a break in period. But we really are curious to know if this is a procedure they have created or can they reference where they got it from. And excellent first post er 2nd post, Ferris Bueler lol.
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      12-13-2018, 07:17 PM   #12
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That bearing wear looks pretty similar to my last m3 @ 69k miles.

This makes me think most of the wear is from the early life of the s65, making to original owners operating habits very crucial to the lifespan of the bearings... all the more reason to have the RB changed out on vehicles which were purchased used. just my theory...
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      12-13-2018, 07:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOF-M3 View Post
Hey OP, can you specifically ask your shop where they acquired this info? Malek@MRF is one of the premier installers and he has never heard of this. Nor have any of us reading this. To give the shop the benefit of the doubt, please ask them where they attained this info from. If it is their own list then that is fine if they feel there should be a break in period. But we really are curious to know if this is a procedure they have created or can they reference where they got it from. And excellent first post er 2nd post, Ferris Bueler lol.
It's something they came up with. They claim that their race car builds are treated the same way and unless the engine is rebuilt annually, street cars should follow their guidance.
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      12-13-2018, 07:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sibhusz06 View Post
mbimmer, I also have a 2011 e90 and got a quote from RRT to do mine. I have 75k but will wait closer to 80k. How was their service?
Service was okay. There's two guys that run their service department: Alex and Mike. I had Mike. I will say that they finished the job super-quickly! I was initially quoted a fairly high amount; once I started pricing out the parts, I found the ARP bolts on their website for $207 even though I was quoted $450. I ordered them online, had them delivered, and then brought them with me. Rod bearing job ended up being around $2350 with BE bearings and ARP bolts.
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      12-13-2018, 07:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBimmer2011 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sibhusz06 View Post
mbimmer, I also have a 2011 e90 and got a quote from RRT to do mine. I have 75k but will wait closer to 80k. How was their service?
Service was okay. There's two guys that run their service department: Alex and Mike. I had Mike. I will say that they finished the job super-quickly! I was initially quoted a fairly high amount; once I started pricing out the parts, I found the ARP bolts on their website for $207 even though I was quoted $450. I ordered them online, had them delivered, and then brought them with me. Rod bearing job ended up being around $2350 with BE bearings and ARP bolts.
BE-ARP Bolts or just ARP? Aren't the regular ARP bolts a PITA to install? like take hours, etc.
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      12-13-2018, 07:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
BE-ARP Bolts or just ARP? Aren't the regular ARP bolts a PITA to install? like take hours, etc.
Not sure on that. ARP is just highly rated. I couldn't imagine there's much of a difference.
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      12-13-2018, 07:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBimmer2011 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
BE-ARP Bolts or just ARP? Aren't the regular ARP bolts a PITA to install? like take hours, etc.
Not sure on that. ARP is just highly rated. I couldn't imagine there's much of a difference.
I believe there is a difference. Copy Pasted from another thread on here:

"BE-ARP bolts are always the best fit, it doesn't depend on which bearing you use. They're ARP bolts built the BE's specifications. 

The issue with OEM bolts is the torque procedure is very lengthy and the bolts are one use only. It's very unlikely people or shops are actually doing it correctly

The issue with regular ARP bolts is they distort the bore/cap. This was shown in the S54 and now in the S65. The thing is these are really easy to install, you just reach a single torque value and you're set

BE-ARP gives you the ease of installation of ARP with the bore distortion of the OEM ones."

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1427728
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      12-13-2018, 07:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
I believe there is a difference. Copy Pasted from another thread on here:

"BE-ARP bolts are always the best fit, it doesn't depend on which bearing you use. They're ARP bolts built the BE's specifications.*

The issue with OEM bolts is the torque procedure is very lengthy and the bolts are one use only. It's very unlikely people or shops are actually doing it correctly

The issue with regular ARP bolts is they distort the bore/cap. This was shown in the S54 and now in the S65. The thing is these are really easy to install, you just reach a single torque value and you're set

BE-ARP gives you the ease of installation of ARP with the bore distortion of the OEM ones."

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1427728
Interesting. Luckily, this is the one project I paid someone to do.
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      12-13-2018, 07:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBimmer2011 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
I believe there is a difference. Copy Pasted from another thread on here:

"BE-ARP bolts are always the best fit, it doesn't depend on which bearing you use. They're ARP bolts built the BE's specifications.*

The issue with OEM bolts is the torque procedure is very lengthy and the bolts are one use only. It's very unlikely people or shops are actually doing it correctly

The issue with regular ARP bolts is they distort the bore/cap. This was shown in the S54 and now in the S65. The thing is these are really easy to install, you just reach a single torque value and you're set

BE-ARP gives you the ease of installation of ARP with the bore distortion of the OEM ones."

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1427728
Interesting. Luckily, this is the one project I paid someone to do.
yeah you're good I'm sure, I am far from any source of knowledge on this engine compared to the experts on here... enjoy the peace of mind.
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      12-13-2018, 09:30 PM   #20
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Did they do motor mounts also?
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      12-13-2018, 11:57 PM   #21
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For what it's worth I used RRT on my last couple of needs including rod bearings and have been happy with them. They have all m3s parked out front when you come in. I got the same break in instruction you received but was out revving it with the gang at tail of dragon in November at the 1k mark. I read it like someone here has said, overprecaution.
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      12-14-2018, 12:29 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFCM3 View Post
That bearing wear looks pretty similar to my last m3 @ 69k miles.

This makes me think most of the wear is from the early life of the s65, making to original owners operating habits very crucial to the lifespan of the bearings... all the more reason to have the RB changed out on vehicles which were purchased used. just my theory...
Looks like very tiny wear, loads of life left - as it bloody should at that mileage!
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