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      10-27-2017, 07:03 AM   #23
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Will be doing this soon. Does anyone know torque specs?
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      10-27-2017, 07:20 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmy23 View Post
Will be doing this soon. Does anyone know torque specs?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/5yhnA2X

Forgot to mention, torque depends on model year (4/29/08 situation) reference this diagram to choose your torque:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/PgzXOMt
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      02-23-2018, 11:40 PM   #25
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      05-23-2018, 12:06 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfirwin View Post
This DIY really helped.

My M3 was built in Feb 02, so I made sure I had the right idler pulley. (Thanks, Theodore!)

While I was at it, I also replaced:

the accessory belt
the accessory belt tensioner
the accessory belt pulley
the A/C Belt
the A/C belt pulley
and the A/C belt Tensioner

ECS tuning part #2777259

BTW, you can get away with not replacing these, (except the belts) when you start hearing that squealing from under the hood (mine started around 85K miles) it'll be the idler pulley. I've always believed that you should replace parts that'll liable to go bad while you are at it. The pulleys all run on bearings, so they will wear out at some point.

I couldn't get the accessory (alternator) belt off without removing the idler pulley. Perhaps someone knows a better way?

The tensioners and pulleys are 14mm bolts, less the idler pulley.

Those bolts are not on super tight, so make sure you don't wrench them down too tight.

Remember there are rubber bushings that can be crushed.

Be super careful of the radiator overflow hose. The nipple on the upper radiator breaks easily.

The hardest part to removing the fan housing is getting it past the upper radiator hose. Be patient, be careful, and you can get the housing out without breaking anything. (I didn't)

+1 for removing the underbelly cover. Not only does it make it easier to reattach those lower hoses, but also to retrieve those dropped parts/tools.



edit - Just noticed that the picture below is wrong. The A/C / Power Steering Belt goes OVER the Power Steering pulley (#3), not under. It also goes UNDER the Idler pulley (#5), not over. See the pic below.

edit edit - So, ECS sent me the wrong belts. The correct belts for my pre-May 2008 are 6PK1067 and 6PK1460

My M3 was built in '09, and the diagram you have is correct for me. That image shows the correct belt layout for builds after mid-2008 that have a counterclockwise power steering pump and a double-sided drive belt for the AC.

Here's the difference. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/PgzXOMt

I was replacing a bad alternator when I broke my upper radiator nipple. I should have read your post first. I got coolant all over both belts, so I replaced them both. I did not replace my pulleys or tensioners and I don't have any engine squeal.

And you are right about removing the idler pulley. I had to do that to get both belts off. It would be impossible without removing it.
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      09-24-2018, 08:47 PM   #27
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I just did this today. Thanks for the write up and part numbers!
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      10-31-2018, 05:10 PM   #28
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Question - the intake manifold isn't required for removal, correct? Just the intake piping and air box?

Thanks.

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      11-03-2018, 03:15 PM   #29
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Did the job today - only needed to remove the air box, not the intake manifold like the original instructions mentioned.

With that said, the idler pulley in the middle with either the offset or centered hole, that is rather inexpensive at $25-$30. However, the two tensioner pulleys are hella expensive because they don't sell the pulley separately. I did manage to pull it apart afterwards.

Pulley Dimensions -

1. OD - 70mm
2. ID - 16.95mm
3. Width - 26mm

Dayco has two pulleys listed -

Pulley #89144 -
OD - 70mm
ID - 17mm
Width - 25mm

&

Pulley #89133
OD - 70mm
ID - 17mm
Width - 24.5mm

Both said they can be used for 6 rib belts. They list for ~$25 on Amazon. May be a cheap alternative than replacing the entire assembly which isn't needed.

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      01-08-2019, 12:04 PM   #30
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If I experienced the whine noise from this pulley bearing failing is it something that I need to replace immediately or can I wait until my next service... I'd prefer to not do it myself at the moment and have been quite busy.

Will this hurt other parts or cause a greater problem right now if it's not affecting drivability?
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      01-08-2019, 01:08 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzz367 View Post
If I experienced the whine noise from this pulley bearing failing is it something that I need to replace immediately or can I wait until my next service... I'd prefer to not do it myself at the moment and have been quite busy.

Will this hurt other parts or cause a greater problem right now if it's not affecting drivability?
Here's a couple of thoughts...

1. Once you hear the noise, depending on number of miles per day, it could last a month or more. For me personally the noise got worse every morning on the cold start and I replaced it within a month to 1.5 months from the time I heard it first.

2. The overall cost to replace the tensioners and pulleys less the hydraulic pieces is somewhere around the $400 mark... $600 if you replace the hydraulic units (parts only/self labor). Mine were Ok so I decided not to replace them.

3. There are caps on the tensioner pulleys (supposed to be anyway) that keep dirt out. You can try to pop the caps off and spray some WD 40 or lithium grease spray while the car is operating which may quiet things down. Unfortunately you can't access it with the fan shroud in place. You could pull the fan shroud and then pull the cap, start the vehicle, spray the pulley several times, and maybe buy yourself some more time. Be aware that pulling the fan may throw a code if you start it without it hooked up. I forget if it self clears or not. Have you scanner close by just in case.

Hope that helps.

Doug
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      01-08-2019, 02:46 PM   #32
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Did the tensioner assembly change during production? I bought new ones but could not install them. I forget the exact issue but it would not clear an accessory pulley. Or maybe I bought the wrong tensioners?
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      01-08-2019, 03:01 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Did the tensioner assembly change during production? I bought new ones but could not install them. I forget the exact issue but it would not clear an accessory pulley. Or maybe I bought the wrong tensioners?
They have two tensioners depending on build date. It changed half way through the year... one pulley is offset and the other is a centered mount...

Scroll up to post #2 or click here -

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...71&postcount=2
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      01-11-2019, 10:43 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by douglee25 View Post
Here's a couple of thoughts...

1. Once you hear the noise, depending on number of miles per day, it could last a month or more. For me personally the noise got worse every morning on the cold start and I replaced it within a month to 1.5 months from the time I heard it first.

2. The overall cost to replace the tensioners and pulleys less the hydraulic pieces is somewhere around the $400 mark... $600 if you replace the hydraulic units (parts only/self labor). Mine were Ok so I decided not to replace them.

3. There are caps on the tensioner pulleys (supposed to be anyway) that keep dirt out. You can try to pop the caps off and spray some WD 40 or lithium grease spray while the car is operating which may quiet things down. Unfortunately you can't access it with the fan shroud in place. You could pull the fan shroud and then pull the cap, start the vehicle, spray the pulley several times, and maybe buy yourself some more time. Be aware that pulling the fan may throw a code if you start it without it hooked up. I forget if it self clears or not. Have you scanner close by just in case.

Hope that helps.

Doug
Thanks for the feedback, the sound basically has gone away over the last few weeks. We had a couple really cold mornings here in San Diego, and thats when it started. If it's not making a noise I think I'll just wait until my next service in 6 months.
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      01-11-2019, 10:44 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzz367 View Post
Thanks for the feedback, the sound basically has gone away over the last few weeks. We had a couple really cold mornings here in San Diego, and thats when it started. If it's not making a noise I think I'll just wait until my next service in 6 months.
6 months is REALLY pushing it. Doubtful you'll make it to then. I thought we were talking a month or two from your question, but not six.
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      01-11-2019, 11:17 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzz367 View Post
Thanks for the feedback, the sound basically has gone away over the last few weeks. We had a couple really cold mornings here in San Diego, and thats when it started. If it's not making a noise I think I'll just wait until my next service in 6 months.
Donít wait . You will regret it if the pulley seizes
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      01-11-2019, 11:18 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msan View Post
Donít wait . You will regret it if the pulley seizes
Ding Ding!
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      01-14-2019, 01:59 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by douglee25 View Post
6 months is REALLY pushing it. Doubtful you'll make it to then. I thought we were talking a month or two from your question, but not six.
Quote:
Originally Posted by msan View Post
Donít wait . You will regret it if the pulley seizes
Quote:
Originally Posted by douglee25 View Post
Ding Ding!
Roger that, booking appointment!
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      01-14-2019, 07:49 PM   #39
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Excellent!
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      02-21-2019, 08:43 AM   #40
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FWIW: My car has a production date of May 2008, which is after the listed change-over date -- but it still has the earlier belt style for this system.

Of course I don't figure this out until I'm balls-deep in the job. Lesson learned.
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      03-14-2019, 02:27 PM   #41
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Question...
How do you get the idler pulley out...
my power steering hard lines are in the way. I've shredded 2 ribs off my belt so i thought it was time to replace... replaced the belt today with a new one
Shredded that belt in 2min... I'm starting to think there's a pulley that's messed up or something
Idler is a cheap fix so i was going to remove it. However i can't get the bolt out all the way do i just have to yank? I feel it loose but don't want to damage anything

Also has anyone experienced shredding belts ac belts?
I have an 09. I didn't notice belt problems until i removed the ac belt to put on a different supercharger pulley. Once i put it back on i started having issues. Now about to buy my 3rd belt.... it's getting expensive. Any suggestions
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      03-14-2019, 05:20 PM   #42
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Maybe you are not routing the belt correctly?
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      03-15-2019, 01:19 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Maybe you are not routing the belt correctly?
It's correct.. I'm thinking maybe tensioner.. none of my pulleys are bad. Tensioner has good tension.. but i don't see any other option as an idler is fixed and ps/ac are not damaged. I'm trying a new belt again tomorrow... if it doesn't work I'm going to start replacing parts
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