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      04-10-2014, 11:50 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by Billj747 View Post
I thought a sealant and a wax were different?

The shop said sealants are more durable and evens the paint surface/fills in microscopic cracks, while the wax leaves a slick layer that a sealant would not stick to if you try to put down a sealant over a wax like I did.


yes, sealants are man made, waxes are natural carnuba.

It's always sealant first (I still like Rejex) and then wax on top. (The wax isn't really needed but many do it anyways)
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      04-10-2014, 02:17 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billj747 View Post
I thought a sealant and a wax were different?

The shop said sealants are more durable and evens the paint surface/fills in microscopic cracks, while the wax leaves a slick layer that a sealant would not stick to if you try to put down a sealant over a wax like I did.
Yes that's correct and don't think all sealants have filling properties. Some waxes/sealants do and some don't. As far as I know I didn't know p21s made a sealant just waxes that's why I said that.
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      04-11-2014, 09:11 AM   #69
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My car has been down/garaged for over a week now (and a week since I clay'ed, p21s, then collinite 851 sealed it), while I would like the durability of the sealant, and was told it probably didn't stick to the p21s waxed surface (because I did it in the wrong order), should I wash the car then re seal it or is a week long enough for me to re-collinite it and have it stick without washing it?
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      04-11-2014, 10:18 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billj747 View Post
My car has been down/garaged for over a week now (and a week since I clay'ed, p21s, then collinite 851 sealed it), while I would like the durability of the sealant, and was told it probably didn't stick to the p21s waxed surface (because I did it in the wrong order), should I wash the car then re seal it or is a week long enough for me to re-collinite it and have it stick without washing it?
if you want collinite as your base you need to completely strip the car's surface of all protection layers first. then you can reapply collinite as your base
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      04-11-2014, 03:06 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billj747 View Post
My car has been down/garaged for over a week now (and a week since I clay'ed, p21s, then collinite 851 sealed it), while I would like the durability of the sealant, and was told it probably didn't stick to the p21s waxed surface (because I did it in the wrong order), should I wash the car then re seal it or is a week long enough for me to re-collinite it and have it stick without washing it?
If your really anal, strip the car and redo it, otherwise just let it be and just keep waxing the car w/ the Collinite.
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      04-14-2014, 01:30 PM   #72
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So after more research, Collinite 845 is an insulator wax and NOT a sealant, so any application of Collinite then P21S, vice versa, or any other wax wouldn't necessarily be any different than layering any combination of waxes.
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      04-14-2014, 04:56 PM   #73
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that's right billy,it is a wax.it has quite a bit of carnauba,enough that if it sits in a cool place it will harden up,so it's one of the more durable waxes.i don't use it on my m3 because i had it opticoated,but have used it on the nsx,and it looks great.
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      04-15-2014, 08:33 AM   #74
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I think it turned out alright:


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      04-15-2014, 10:24 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billj747 View Post
So after more research, Collinite 845 is an insulator wax and NOT a sealant, so any application of Collinite then P21S, vice versa, or any other wax wouldn't necessarily be any different than layering any combination of waxes.

says it right on the bottle. Developed to prevent arcing in high power/voltage lines.

I love Collinite 845 and been using it for a long time and my car looks great for a jet black DD that sits out 99% of the time. It does turn to a rock in the cold or if not handled for a while. You live in FL so it probaly stays pretty fluid, but sometimes you need to shake the bottle for like 10 minutes!! Def a great product priced right.
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