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04-10-2014, 11:50 AM | #67 | |
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yes, sealants are man made, waxes are natural carnuba. It's always sealant first (I still like Rejex) and then wax on top. (The wax isn't really needed but many do it anyways) |
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04-10-2014, 02:17 PM | #68 | |
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Drives: F30 340i
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04-11-2014, 09:11 AM | #69 |
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My car has been down/garaged for over a week now (and a week since I clay'ed, p21s, then collinite 851 sealed it), while I would like the durability of the sealant, and was told it probably didn't stick to the p21s waxed surface (because I did it in the wrong order), should I wash the car then re seal it or is a week long enough for me to re-collinite it and have it stick without washing it?
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04-11-2014, 10:18 AM | #70 | |
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04-11-2014, 03:06 PM | #71 | |
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04-14-2014, 01:30 PM | #72 |
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So after more research, Collinite 845 is an insulator wax and NOT a sealant, so any application of Collinite then P21S, vice versa, or any other wax wouldn't necessarily be any different than layering any combination of waxes.
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04-14-2014, 04:56 PM | #73 |
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that's right billy,it is a wax.it has quite a bit of carnauba,enough that if it sits in a cool place it will harden up,so it's one of the more durable waxes.i don't use it on my m3 because i had it opticoated,but have used it on the nsx,and it looks great.
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04-15-2014, 10:24 AM | #75 | |
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says it right on the bottle. Developed to prevent arcing in high power/voltage lines. I love Collinite 845 and been using it for a long time and my car looks great for a jet black DD that sits out 99% of the time. It does turn to a rock in the cold or if not handled for a while. You live in FL so it probaly stays pretty fluid, but sometimes you need to shake the bottle for like 10 minutes!! Def a great product priced right. |
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