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03-17-2013, 12:03 AM | #23 |
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03-17-2013, 12:08 AM | #24 | ||
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mods: track ready stuff
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03-17-2013, 10:31 AM | #25 |
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Yes, I understand how it works and that was not my question. You do realize the threaded lower adapter is a slip-on adapter on JRZ, TCK, MCS, and Moton. When the steering knuckle bolt is preloaded the slip-on adapter on these high-end dampers do not pull-out of the steering knuckle while in use. Consequently, this suggests the radially preload on the tapered adapter is capable of transfering the combined axial damper-spring loads (in the thousands of pounds; plus lateral shear loads because it is a strut) in shear between the adapter and damper body. I'll ask my question again, with the lower part of the threaded damper preloaded in the steering knuckle, is it possible to adjust the ride height OR do you have to untorque the large bolt on the steering knuckle to adjust height from the lower threaded portion of the damper?
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03-17-2013, 12:58 PM | #26 | |
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Yes, just the main spring...see photo. Even with the use of a helper, the height adjustment is not affected. And here is link as well: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=ohlins Not on the track yet, but road feel and runs through the very rough road, mountains and canyons tell me the dampers are more precise than the RS1. Since the R&T has such a wide range of adjustments, I am confidant that it can handle 450-500F and 800-900 rear without any issues. |
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03-17-2013, 02:39 PM | #27 |
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Congratulations! They look really nice.
Please get back with info after your test drives/track day which settings and heigt adjustment you used and prefered. (I'm still awaiting confirmation for my delivery...) |
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03-18-2013, 07:45 PM | #28 | |
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If you are using a helper spring, not tender spring, you essentially have zero preload regardless of the upper height adjustment (easy to fully compress a helper spring to its stack height). I'm running DFVs on my R56 Mini and RS1s on my e92 M3s (400/672 and 500/800 rates). I actually find the RS1s, at either spring rates, to be more precise as well as able to absorb large bumps much better without unsettling the balance of the car. I have both brands of dampers so I'm giving my unbiased opinion. Max rates of 450-500 for the F dampers - seems low for a "track" damper. |
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03-18-2013, 09:23 PM | #29 | |
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I was able to drive the RS1 and Ohlins R&T back to back on the same car with the exact same spring rates, Ohlins stayed on and RS1 up for sale, enough said. RS1 is still very good, but Ohlins R&T is just a bit better on my 1M, in my opinion. Ohlins R&T is not a "track" damper, but rather a Road and Track damper. I didn't saying 500 is max, but only said it can handle that rate without any issues. |
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03-19-2013, 04:45 PM | #30 | |
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Perhaps the RS1 is superior on an e9x M3 We agree on one thing - the Ohlins R&T is really just Ohlins "R" |
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03-19-2013, 06:18 PM | #31 | |
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You can add constant ID Swift main and helper and make the Ohlins R&T fully adjustable if that is what you need. |
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03-19-2013, 07:14 PM | #32 |
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03-20-2013, 05:57 AM | #34 | |
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On your RS1s, did you check the pressures on the adjustable internal N2 reservoirs? If the N2 pressure was at zero the damper would not feel "precise". Being able to adjust N2 internal pressure is a nice feature the Ohlins do not have. I'm actually disappointed with the Ohlins R&T setup because it appears to be biased too far toward the "Road" (you've even stated this) and it even shows up in the spring rates - my wife runs 400/672 rates on her RS1 setup and finds it to be very comfy on the street! |
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03-20-2013, 07:34 AM | #35 | |
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I was specifically looking for a setup biased more towards road performance and comfort. I got a baby seat in the back and my wife and daughter ride with me very often. Ohlins R&T was an option and at 25% less than JRZ, I think it's a good option indeed. I've done probably close to 40+ track days on my bikes and some amateur motorcycle racing, and all my bikes had Ohlins shocks and fork internals. I have a lot of respect for Ohlins as a company and their build quality is beyond superb. I'll give them a try any day. So, my expectations are high. I expect that on the road during my daily commute, it will feel more comfortable than stock suspension, and definitely more comfortable than H&R Sport lowering springs. I also expect that on the road, when car is pushed, it will handle greatly and much better than OEM/H&R. Most importantly I have several very curvy roads with a lot of bumps and crests that I want this car to handle gracefully and confidence inspiring. This will be my first test as soon as these are installed and car is aligned. I have never tracked my E90 M3, only my E46 M3, so unfortunately I will not be able to provide a good before/after comparison of OEM handling vs. Ohlins @ track. But i should be able to give you my impressions and add some videos where lap times will be indicative of how good this setup is. |
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03-20-2013, 07:40 AM | #36 |
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P.S. Wanted to add, while I am not expecting laser sharp race oriented setup, I obviously still expect it to handle great @ the track with shock adjustments turned up. You'll definitely hear from me if at the track I find R&T seriously lacking.
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03-20-2013, 12:04 PM | #37 | |
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Apologies to the OP. |
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03-21-2013, 04:43 AM | #38 | |
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I have nothing against Ohlins - I'm running their R&T's on my R56 Mini. Compared to the e9x M3 OEM suspension, the Ohlins R&T suspension will significantly out perform it on the street and track. Have fun and enjoy |
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03-21-2013, 12:48 PM | #39 | |
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I can see adjusting damping as a bandaid for that, but it should be tuned with spring rate and possibly front sway bars... (typically you'd leave the rear alone to help put power down) But no, ride height does not adjust understeer or oversteer in a proper setup and you'd never adjust ride height at the track without an alignment rack. |
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03-21-2013, 02:06 PM | #40 | |
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Yes, you can adjust ride height to deal with specific "steady state" handling issues while at the track as well as sway bars to adjust other handling issues without requiring a complete alignment. It usually doesn't require huge changes in ride height to dial out, say, oversteer - if you lower the rear 1/4", while keeping the front height fixed (always work on the end that's lacking grip) you improve overall grip. I've worked with pro drivers at the track and, even after driving my car, they've recommended changes in only ride height. |
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03-21-2013, 03:22 PM | #41 | |
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"pro drivers" will have an engineer to make those changes. But no, ride height to increase grip? Maybe on a car with huge aero grip, but ride height alone won't change balance. |
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03-21-2013, 03:27 PM | #42 |
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Ride heights will change your balance, I have used it to fine tune handling even on my M3. A good shop will know what they are doing with your feedback.
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03-21-2013, 03:43 PM | #43 | |
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And, you never change ride height without either knowing what the alignment will be at a given height (problematic because you need to remove the lower fork on the Ohlins, and most suspensions for our cars don't have a separate ride height adjustment) or without the ability to do a trackside alignment. Toe changes pretty quickly with ride height both front and rear. |
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03-21-2013, 04:47 PM | #44 | |
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OP - sorry for getting off topic again. This is the last time I'll post in your thread. I hope you enjoy your new Ohlins R&T suspension |
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