Help!!! Dealer wants me to replace ECU for 2k!?

[mdm9]

Software Mods: Some feature coding from the BMW Carly App and the GTS DCT tune from Alex@Alpine.

Timeline of events:

Dec 1st - Cut out primary cats and replaced with test pipes

Dec 6th - Got a limp mode while driving, Misfire with Cut out (002B39), Misfire with emissions deterioration(002B46) in cylinders 5,6,7,8, then a bunch of other codes including Check at lower top, and I think I got the idle control valve code. Cleared the codes and it was fine.

Dec 28th- Increased Emissions light comes on. Very strange that it took this long for it to come on due to being catless. Cleared it and it did not come back for several weeks.

Jan 18th - After starting the car, I get a limp mode with 002B0D (Idle Control Valve) and 002B57. Limp mode was intermittent and occurred upon creeping at idle speeds, especially in reverse.

Jan 30th - Replaced the ICV myself, same codes came back this time also with 00A6D1 (short circuit additional water pump) and 005E19 (engine torque is not adjustable CAN).

Jan 31st - Took car into dealer.

Feb 2nd - Charged $720 to rip the intake off and diagnose by testing all the DME wiring and ICV functions, all which checked out fine. They reset the codes and reprogrammed the ECU and gave the car back to me, thinking the issue had been resolved. The BMW TSE (regional service engineer) says the next step if this didn't work is to try replacing the DME (ECU).

Feb 3rd- Limp mode already came back once, so it isn't fixed. I can shut the car off and on again and it will go away. Now the idle drops to 500 when I touch the accelerator and it seems to hesitate getting off the line. Took the car back to BMW, and they want me to pay $2200 to replace the DME, saying that they don't know what the next step is after that.


This seems like a dramatic step to me, isn't there something cheaper that we could try first??? $2200 is a lot of money especially when it isn't guaranteed to fix my problem. The closest good BMW Indy shop is 3 hours away, so the dealer is my best option, especially since they have access to the TSE's. Should I trust the TSE's opinion and pay to replace it? Could it be a vacuum/brake booster issue since the idle drops while creeping forward/backwards??

I've already thrown $650 (for the ICV) + $720 for BMW diagnosis time at the car, so I will think I would seriously consider selling the car if the $2200 for the DME doesn't solve the issue, and that's not something I want to do.

I really appreciate any input anyone can provide. If more info would help, let me know, I have some freeze frames of the engine data from the BMWCarly App - I am just dedicated to getting this damn issue fixed.

[jcolley]

What is the actual code in limp mode now?

[mdm9]

Here they are

[mdm9]

Here they are

[msan]

Just throwing this out there but maybe you need a new battery, or your o2 sensor(s) are bad. There are more informed people who will
opine I'm sure.

Also the ICV is under an extended warranty by BMW for 120,000 miles do they should have fixed that one for free. If you fixed it yourself I'd ask for money back for parts from BMW NA.

[msan]

Try this thread http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1298930

[mdm9]

Originally Posted by SlowLeak

Since this sounds somewhat similar to the problem I had I would have them check for an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor. When the O2 sensor gives incorrect information then all sorts of strange things happen.

Could this be the source of my problems???? I know I have had an exhaust leak where the headers meet the test pipe since I went catless that I have yet to fix

[msan]

You can send me a check for $2k .

[kamber]

Originally Posted by mdm9

Could this be the source of my problems???? I know I have had an exhaust leak where the headers meet the test pipe since I went catless that I have yet to fix

How do you know you had a leak there? Did you not use the exhaust gasket rings when you installed your aftermarket setup?

[mdm9]

I hear a little rattle when I step on it and I can sometimes set off car alarms in a parking garage, and its really stinky. I tried to reuse the graphite gasket rings when I installed the exhaust, they disintegrated so I bought similar sized ones (but not perfect at auto zone).

Am I a huge dumbass? Could this really have caused my significant limp mode issues? What does this have to do with how sluggish it is off the line and how the RPMs drop when I step on the accelerator?

[mdm9]

I am going to try fixing the leak first before replacing the DME. Should I also buy new pre cat O2 sensors? I wasn't the most gentle with them and may have accidentally let the touch the ground while hanging from the car?

[msan]

I'd vote to just fix the leak first. But be ready to replace the o2 sensor if codes continue and exhaust is leak free

[Dave07997S]

You need to get a hold of Mike Benvo with BPM he knows these DMEs quite well and was able to bring some of them back that were bricked.

Dave

[OneSickM]

Originally Posted by mdm9

I hear a little rattle when I step on it and I can sometimes set off car alarms in a parking garage, and its really stinky. I tried to reuse the graphite gasket rings when I installed the exhaust, they disintegrated so I bought similar sized ones (but not perfect at auto zone).

Am I a huge dumbass? Could this really have caused my significant limp mode issues? What does this have to do with how sluggish it is off the line and how the RPMs drop when I step on the accelerator?

Can you share what gasket rings you used from autozone?

[deansbimmer]

I have seen similar problems with engines or wiring harnesses that have been replaced but not secured properly and melted against the exhaust.

Might look into that and give it a thorough inspection. If it's blowing fuses then you have a hard short somewhere either in line or in a device.

[mdm9]

Here's the rings. Wouldn't recommend them, they were slightly larger than the hole but the people at autozone said they thought it would be fine

[mdm9]

I am 95% sure that engine and all wiring is original. BMW tested the wiring and said it worked fine. They re flashed the DME and test drove it for 10 miles with no codes or issues and said everything was functioning properly. It only threw those codes 10-20 miles after being reflashed, leading me to think that it could indeed have something to do with the pre cat O2 sensors

[BPMSport]

If it is the DME I can get you a replacement for less. It's rare but in some cases a DME can be the culprit if the issues have all been diagnosed properly. Finding someone that actually knows what they are doing in terms of diagnosis is usually the hardest part..

[Solo_M_Tech]

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

If it is the DME I can get you a replacement for less. It's rare but in some cases a DME can be the culprit if the issues have all been diagnosed properly. Finding someone that actually knows what they are doing in terms of diagnosis is usually the hardest part..

Worst part is a funky, or intermittent power issue will create more havoc for a technician, and owner because it's almost impossible to pinpoint every time. If the owner gets a decent tech who knows how to use the test plans in ISTA correctly, 99% of these hard to diagnose issues, diagnose themselves.

Case in point. I had a 2009 335i that had recently had the turbo's and several oil leaks fixed. Car would start and drive just fine but it would randomly go into limp mode, and not restart. No crank, No start. After running the test plan ( Once I got the DME to respond) I knew it had to be a power or ground issue due to the frequency of the power codes stored in the system.( 87 stored codes total, and 14 different power codes, and DME pin 15 disconnect codes) I ended up finding the ground wire for the JBE/DME wasn't reconnected to the grounding point on the fender. Car immediately came to life, and hasn't had an issue since.

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by Uber///M

Worst part is a funky, or intermittent power issue will create more havoc for a technician, and owner because it's almost impossible to pinpoint every time. If the owner gets a decent tech who knows how to use the test plans in ISTA correctly, 99% of these hard to diagnose issues, diagnose themselves.

Case in point. I had a 2009 335i that had recently had the turbo's and several oil leaks fixed. Car would start and drive just fine but it would randomly go into limp mode, and not restart. No crank, No start. After running the test plan ( Once I got the DME to respond) I knew it had to be a power or ground issue due to the frequency of the power codes stored in the system.( 87 stored codes total, and 14 different power codes, and DME pin 15 disconnect codes) I ended up finding the ground wire for the JBE/DME wasn't reconnected to the grounding point on the fender. Car immediately came to life, and hasn't had an issue since.

Something like this can be easily ruled out with proper diagnostic steps. We just spent 4 hours diagnosing a 645i that wouldn't start that was purchased from an auction before concluding the DME was the culprit.

Test plans and fault codes can only show so much. In fact, this car had no faults but had all sorts of clicking noises from the engine bay.

Checking voltage and resistance on all of the power and ground leads connected to the DME would ultimately pinpoint the issue you found - aside from checking power and ground distribution itself. Also, the DME is a supply for a number of powered components, so checking these can also help isolate the offending component.

[SaNGRia]

If any original service of a product can not pin point the problem, DO NOT TRUST THIS SERVICE. "There is no such a thing like we will replace and we will see what will happen" . It is easy to play with someone's money, Does BMW would just replace the parts when it is under the warranty? No. When it is fully covered they usually pin point to problem to lower the cost for their end. When the warranty is out, Oh well, let's see!

I DO NOT TRUST ANY DEALER SINCE I HAVE NUMEROUS OF DIFFERENT BRANDED CARS. THEY ARE ALL SAME. HOW CAN WE TAKE ADVANTAGE FROM THE CLIENT!

IF YOU ARE KNOWLEDGABLE THEY ARE GETTING MORE PISSED! SERVICE ADVISORS NEED MORE ADVICE THAN ANYONE ELSE IN BMW DEALERS BTW!

SO MY OPINION DO NOT GO TO DEALER ANYMORE!

Just try to find a bmw enthusiast around your area. Pay for the time during this diagnose and go from there! Trust me you will not loose any money during this process. There is no one but no one will show that much interest to your car in any bmw dealer whatsoever!

Have I ever had any problem with the BMW dealer? No! But whenever I went there I felt disingenuous attitudes !

[8k4]

Wow bmw of Austin didn't charge me a dime when they had my car a week diagnosing it. Ended up being an issue w the tune (they didn't know, I just quietly took the car back)