Will this cause me to fail tech inspection?

[dmw16]

This weekend I was installing my new camber plates and I went a little too gorilla on a top nut and as best as I can tell managed to run it past the threads on the top of the strut.

So now I have two issues that I'm concerned will cause me to fail:

1. A clunk from the right front due to spring binding. It only occurs below 5mph. No issue at speed.

2. My top nut is basically stuck on the strut.

The nut obviously isn't going anywhere but the only way to replace the strut (and maybe correct the binding) is to cut the top of the strut off the free the camber plate and spring. I'd rather not. If it isn't a safety issue I'm content to live with it.

Thoughts?

Edit:
I think I know the answer here already. I can't ignore this issue. So it's really just a question of how do I save the camber plate and spring. Meaning rescue it from the stuck nut.

[TXmtrhed]

The strut shaft nut does not need to be tightened very much ~ 20 ft-lb. I'd be concerned about the remaining strength of the threads in either the nut or strut. Hopefully the nut deformed and not the strut threads. Try using a impact wrench on the nut with the strut installed in the car. If it comes off you can inspect the strut threads, if it doesn't you'll have to try some other method but I would say cutting the strut rod would be the last thing to try. Better inspect the strut bearing too once you get it off.

Are you talking about a tech inspection for a track day? Whether it fails inspection or not I would be concerned. Think about it.

[dmw16]

Originally Posted by TXmtrhed

The strut shaft nut does not need to be tightened very much ~ 20 ft-lb. I'd be concerned about the remaining strength of the threads in either the nut or strut. Hopefully the nut deformed and not the strut threads. Try using a impact wrench on the nut with the strut installed in the car. If it comes off you can inspect the strut threads, if it doesn't you'll have to try some other method but I would say cutting the strut rod would be the last thing to try. Better inspect the strut bearing too once you get it off.

Are you talking about a tech inspection for a track day? Whether it fails inspection or not I would be concerned. Think about it.

I've tried it on and off the car; no dice. I've also tried holding the shock with a hex head and then backing the nut out. I think it's on the other side of the threads and there's no way to get enough pressure on the nut to get it to re-engage the threads.

I want it to be ok but my gut tells me it's not. I emailed my tech and we will see what he says. But I'm thinking my gut is right.

And yes, inspection for a track day.

[MilehighM3]

Using a good impact should get the nut off. Now whether or not the strut is salvageable, who knows until you get it apart.

[dmw16]

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

Using a good impact should get the nut off. Now whether or not the strut is salvageable, who knows until you get it apart.

I think the threads of the nut are destroyed. An impact gun just spins it.

[S65V8]

Originally Posted by TXmtrhed

The strut shaft nut does not need to be tightened very much ~ 20 ft-lb. I'd be concerned about the remaining strength of the threads in either the nut or strut. Hopefully the nut deformed and not the strut threads. Try using a impact wrench on the nut with the strut installed in the car. If it comes off you can inspect the strut threads, if it doesn't you'll have to try some other method but I would say cutting the strut rod would be the last thing to try. Better inspect the strut bearing too once you get it off.

Are you talking about a tech inspection for a track day? Whether it fails inspection or not I would be concerned. Think about it.

+1, while costly to fix, I wouldn't risk it. Any component that is a primary stress point during tracking should be without question installed / fastened properly. Knocking sounds, that's no good. Who knows what torsional stresses will do, and by the time you find out it could be too late.

[dmw16]

Originally Posted by SROC5

+1, while costly to fix, I wouldn't risk it. Any component that is a primary stress point during tracking should be without question installed / fastened properly. Knocking sounds, that's no good. Who knows what torsional stresses will do, and by the time you find out it could be too late.

I agree. I posted originally hoping for some salvation but realized right afterwards what the right answer was. Thanks.

[Richard@M-World]

Care to take a picture of the strut top stem/nut?

[dmw16]

Originally Posted by Richard@M-World

Care to take a picture of the strut top stem/nut?

I could do that tonight. Access is tight because of the depth of the camber plate. My plan of action is:

1. Try to cut the nut off using a dremel.

2. Look at drilling out the strut but access might be too limited even with my air drill.

3. Cut strut just above the strut flange bearing so that I can remove it from the camber plate and save plate and spring.

4. Cut strut mid span to save the spring and take the top half to a machine shop and let them drill the strut out.

This is my order if 1 fails go to 2 and so on. Note that I am speaking of cutting the strut rod, not the pressurized region (of course).

[Car54]

Can you dremel a perpendicular slit in the nut? Then you would take a pry bar and expand it. You don't have to go all the way through.

[dmw16]

Originally Posted by Car54

Can you dremel a perpendicular slit in the nut? Then you would take a pry bar and expand it. You don't have to go all the way through.

I started doing something similar with a carbide cutting bit, but the problem is with the Turner camber plates the nut is surrounded so access is limited.

The nut has proven very stubborn, and at this point I can see that the threads of the strut are destroyed, so I'll probably cut hacksaw the strut. Oh well.

[InterJon]

I am confused if we are addressing the strut itself or the strut retainer plate (with the three bolts).

[dmw16]

Originally Posted by InterJon

I am confused if we are addressing the strut itself or the strut retainer plate (with the three bolts).

This was the strut top nut, not the set of 3 nuts that hold the strut on the car.

Turns out I left off the rubber bushings because they were stuck on the old strut mounts. That's why I ended up having to tighten everything down too much.

I am going to have to drill out or cut the strut at this point.

Lesson (expensively) learned.