S65/S85 throttle actuators - electrical failure SOLVED

[M3MPH1S]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

about 48k... when the valve tends to fail?

Not really a set mileage, I'm guessing age plays a bigger part. The symptom is tach needle bouncing (and the engine itself) for a minute while sitting at idle after you fill up with gas. I think I've only seen 1 or 2 people report it as a constant issue that actually caused problems, but it is sightly annoying. I let mine continue for about a year before finally replacing it. But yeah, the part is pretty cheap and it's located in the same area and it's right on top of the engine so it shouldn't add any labor.

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by M3MPH1S

Not really a set mileage, I'm guessing age plays a bigger part. The symptom is tach needle bouncing (and the engine itself) for a minute while sitting at idle after you fill up with gas. I think I've only seen 1 or 2 people report it as a constant issue that actually caused problems, but it is sightly annoying. I let mine continue for about a year before finally replacing it. But yeah, the part is pretty cheap and it's located in the same area and it's right on top of the engine so it shouldn't add any labor.

ok thanks for the suggestion... i do occasionally see rpm fluctuating when the car is idling... but pretty rare occurrence for me but might as well do it since they have to open it up anyway.

do you know if the bosch part is identical to the OEM without the branding? $30 v.s. $90?!?!

[M3MPH1S]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

ok thanks for the suggestion... i do occasionally see rpm fluctuating when the car is idling... but pretty rare occurrence for me but might as well do it since they have to open it up anyway.

do you know if the bosch part is identical to the OEM without the branding? $30 v.s. $90?!?!

Yes it's identical. They are the OE supplier.

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by M3MPH1S

Yes it's identical. They are the OE supplier.

talk about BMW tax...

[Majdi]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

How much labor cost should I expect to replace both TAs? I'm in NYC metro area where things tend to be expensive. I just got quote of around $1000 / 1 day of work, feel it's a little too high given what i have seen others been saying how much work is it to DIY?

Brother. That price is extremely high. Even the dealerships in Michigan charge $600.00. It doesn't take more than 2 hours to replace actuators. It's very straightforward! Do not pay 1k for the job. Contact Mchanics (George) and see how much he charges.

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by 4org1ve

Brother. That price is extremely high. Even the dealerships in Michigan charge $600.00. It doesn't take more than 2 hours to replace actuators. It's very straightforward! Do not pay 1k for the job. Contact Mchanics (George) and see how much he charges.

I probably will ask a couple more places.

"Mchanics (George)" is in NY? what's is contact if he is...

[Majdi]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

I probably will ask a couple more places.

"Mchanics (George)" is in NY? what's is contact if he is...

George: (917) 710-2263
M-Chanics: 18 Railroad Ave, Valley Stream

I'm not from NYC, but he is very well known on the m5board and I used to call and ask him a lot of questions back in the day.

Just ask how much he charges to replace actuators and then report back to this thread. Thanks.

P.S. Do not pay 1k for the job. I'll fly down to Nyc and still charge $400.00 for the entire job. I'll take spirit airlines which will be $100.00 to Lga. lol.

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by 4org1ve

George: (917) 710-2263
M-Chanics: 18 Railroad Ave, Valley Stream

I'm not from NYC, but he is very well known on the m5board and I used to call and ask him a lot of questions back in the day.

Just ask how much he charges to replace actuators and then report back to this thread. Thanks.

P.S. Do not pay 1k for the job. I'll fly down to Nyc and still charge $400.00 for the entire job. I'll take spirit airlines which will be $100.00 to Lga. lol.

got another quote of $800. better than the 1st one, but, I guess, that's the cost of living around here...!

[Nerdslogic]

I wanted to chime in with an update. It took me several hours 2 confidently put my thumb on the correct part. Fairchild semiconductor was purchased by ON semiconductor and the part number is slightly different now.

As of May 2018, What you need are 5 pieces of 60 volt 20 amp surface mount mosfet, part number HUFA76429D3ST_F085 per throttle actuator board. I sourced mine from www.digikey.com

[Nerdslogic]

I am usually able to defeat limp mode by putting the car into 3rd or 4th gear while in motion, off throttle, and then press the start-stop button 3 times. The engine ignition will shut down. You then press the start-stop button a fourth time and the engine resumes running. You do not need to disengage the clutch and I recommend that you do not as the restart occurs more smoothly this way.

Most of the time, I am able to escape limp mode using this method.

This method became less and less reliable for me as time wore on. When the problem first started, it was rare. Over time it became more frequent while the ignition reset procedure became less effective. After finally replacing the gear sets in both actuators, the limp mode problem was greatly improved but not eliminated and the ignition reset is again much more effective.

I have ordered the mosfets and will post sperately about the other electronic failure components.

[Nerdslogic]

Could anybody out there please let us know what the other common failure components are on the throttle actuator board?

For those of you who fully refurbish these boards, what all do you typically replace? What are the part numbers of these components?

I am a pretty strong do-it-yourselfer and realize that I could do more harm than good attempting to do this myself but would like an opportunity to completely trash a board that is already a candidate for replacement anyway for the chance of fixing it myself. I would also like the opportunity to document this process for those of us who are comfortable with a soldering iron as there is a dearth of information out there beyond replacing the gear sets in these servos.

[turbo_joe]

Just finished the swap, was a lot easier than most make it out to be. Finished the job in just over an hour and it was my first time ever pulling the plenum so I took my time with that. If you have any basic mechanical ability you should be able to knock this out following the DIY.

Just pulled the plunem off


Mid way through with the old actuators out


Putting it all back together

[XKxRome0ox]

thanks for all the info

[Jonzny]

Originally Posted by Jonzny

Used M Power Motosports to replace mine this weekend, worked perfectly. No issues now!

5 Months later, actuator #2 has gone bad.

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by Jonzny

5 Months later, actuator #2 has gone bad.

actuator #2 wasn't replaced together with #1? i thought the usual consensus is that when one of them goes replace both of them because chances is that even the "still good one" might be about time when the other one goes...

[pbonsalb]

I agree but you might delay the expense by a year depending on how much you drive. If it’s your labor then it’s just more of your time. If you are paying, it makes sense to do both.

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I agree but you might delay the expense by a year depending on how much you drive. If it’s your labor then it’s just more of your time. If you are paying, it makes sense to do both.

very true... i probably will have my mechanic do it hence my statement.
but i guess it does show, at least in this case, how close the failure time are within the 2 actuators!

[Jonzny]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

actuator #2 wasn't replaced together with #1? i thought the usual consensus is that when one of them goes replace both of them because chances is that even the "still good one" might be about time when the other one goes...

Yea, idk why I didn't. Thought I'd be the exception lol
Thinking I should do my ICV as well...

[xxm3]

After replacing the gears, still getting an error code. After reading others experiences I'm biting the bullet & replacing both throttle actuators through M Power Motorsports. I just want to thank everyone who posted their experience and recommendations on here.

[wyatth]

Originally Posted by Jonzny

Yea, idk why I didn't. Thought I'd be the exception lol
Thinking I should do my ICV as well...

Why the ICV? Issues or a "while you're in there?" Could be the fuel breather valve if there are symptoms.

Has anybody with the fully rebuilt M-Power actuators had a repeat failure? Who has the most time/miles on them?

[Jonzny]

Originally Posted by wyatth

Why the ICV? Issues or a "while you're in there?" Could be the fuel breather valve if there are symptoms.

Has anybody with the fully rebuilt M-Power actuators had a repeat failure? Who has the most time/miles on them?

Just a while i'm in there but I didnt end up doing it.

[Gemcoska]

Hey Guys,
So I went through a similar post and just replaced my TA with new OEM ones for Turner Motorsports. Install went quickly <2 hours.

I originally took it to the dealer to diagnose and they told me to replace the Bank 1 TA and the ride height sensor. I had them do the ride height sensor and I did the TA replacement (both banks).

Now that both problems have been fixed, the car doesn't go into Limp Mode, but I still have the DTC errors, DSC malfunction, DBC malfunction, Start off assistance inactive, Dynamic Damping Control Inactive.

I've cleared the CEL with a generic OBD2 reader (Torque) and they haven't came back, but I can't clear the other errors on the idrive screen and Cruise Control and all the throttle control stuff isn't working. I did a bunch of research on which tool to buy to research this and no one specifically calls out which tools will clear this error. What tools have worked for you guys?

Thanks in advance.
Rob