Bearings maybe on their way out at 44k and food for thought.

[redpriest]

I'm not opposed to rod bearing changes; it's just a $3000 expense (including parts, and NorCal pricing) to insure against a possible $11,000 expense. It's still a significant fraction of the replacement engine cost.

I will probably do mine at 150k miles, but at this stage, I would also probably need to do a full engine rebuild anyway.

[anerbe]

Originally Posted by redpriest

I'm not opposed to rod bearing changes; it's just a $3000 expense (including parts, and NorCal pricing) to insure against a possible $11,000 expense. It's still a significant fraction of the replacement engine cost.

I will probably do mine at 150k miles, but at this stage, I would also probably need to do a full engine rebuild anyway.

At that point, just get a lower mileage engine and install rod bearings while it's out - you really only add the parts costs while the engine is out.

Of course rebuild if you plan to upgrade / stroke the motor.

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by 8600RPM

It really shouldn't hit over 260 in a properly working car. I am catless dct with tune and I had two weekends of 2 days,each on track in 100 degree days. 20 minute sessions but also had two 40 minute sessions . Even after beating at it for 40 mins straight, Redlinning and staying almost entirely in 3rd ( few shifts to 4th and 2nd) it was begged at a hair above the 255 Mark or at,255 Mark.
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Anotger friend with a 2008 last weekend during an 85 degree day hit close,to 300 degrees and had waning.
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You may consider washing or replacing your radiator. If too much crap gets in it over the years it loses cooling surface area .sonething is off thiugh

This couldn't be more far from the truth... I don't know where you come up with some of the things you say...

Back in 2012 I took THREE different M3's and beat the living hell out of them on Streets of Willow, an E90, E92, and E93 - all "properly working ", and I had two of them at 290+ and my car at 300 because I had a crank pulley. There are so many variables here - that you can't make a statement like that and have it hold any weight. On a longer track with more straight aways you will have more time for the oil to cool down.

To the OP: You will never get an oil temperature warning at 250C - in fact, the first thing that will happen is a reduced redline to 7800 - and this will start at ABOVE 300F for oil temperature and/or ABOVE 240F coolant temperature. If you got an "engine overheating" or too hot message, I would bet that this was for coolant temp and not oil temp.

Now in cars tuned with BPMSport software, we actually start dropping the quite a bit before the stock programming does to prevent high RPM use with either excessive oil or coolant temperatures.