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      12-19-2017, 11:42 AM   #1
cmyE93M3
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Maintenance high/low?

Curious how many other M3P members track the maintenance and gas on their vehicle. I attached mine, I haven't owned the car from new but received close to 90% of the service records on the vehicle (some were just very miscellaneous), and the previous owner never bothered to keep every single solitary receipt.

Does this seem high to you guys, as an average per year it is $1,839.92 (over nine years), the vehicle is a 2008 E93.

See chart for the breakdown on maintenances/services, for mileage over the last 6 months I average 6.951 km/L

Full disclosure, I should mention the maintenance cost includes the RB replacement (VAC/ARP), throttle actuators replaced once under warranty (previous owner), the body chassis is high due to repainting the hood and front bumper due to road rash and I dump the costs for detailing in there (paint correction & ceramic), plus I had the rear bumper repaired for an idiot who backed into a parking spot and drove their trailer hitch into the rear of the bumper.

EDIT** Vehicle has 109,100 km's on it currently. When gas and maintenance/service is factored in the cost is $0.193 per km (I averaged 14,000 km's this year), a bit more than previous years mileage on the vehicle as an average.
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Last edited by cmyE93M3; 12-19-2017 at 11:57 AM.
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      12-19-2017, 07:02 PM   #2
6ixSpd
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The E9X M3 is a rather robust car with almost every component incredibly well engineered to last - something seldom said about BMWs or Ms in general. It really only has to weak points: Throttle Actuators and Rod Bearings. Each run into the four figures.

All things considered, that's a tiny price to pay for maintaining such a high performing car. It punches way above its class. The general rule of thumb is to budget $1500-$2000 of annual maintenance on any modern BMW. Your numbers are definitely in line with that, even if compounded but some non-routine repairs such as bodywork.

But back to your question, the only thing I bother to keep note of is the [S]Miles Per Gallon.
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      12-19-2017, 09:41 PM   #3
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$675 for spark plugs!? They are under $100 for the set and take 30-45min to replace.
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      12-19-2017, 11:55 PM   #4
cmyE93M3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millie View Post
$675 for spark plugs!? They are under $100 for the set and take 30-45min to replace.
Lol, it's not a single occurence, done twice plus the coils once, number includes labour also for install.
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      12-21-2017, 12:01 PM   #5
triggz82
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I track all of my maintenance in a little notebook in my car by hand... old school style I guess. As sixspd has said the car is pretty robust. Most of my costs are wear&tear and preventative.

The only parts I've had to replace due to failure were the FRM module and windshield fluid reservoir pump. I also have the lumpy idle after cold start (car stalls sometimes) so I'm trying to figure out of that is the ICV or fuel tank breather valve... but not a big deal at this time. Car is about to hit 100k so i have also budgeted for rb replacement at some point in 2018 and may do the DCT fluid (again both preventative).
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      12-21-2017, 06:29 PM   #6
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I have a note in my phone that keeps track of things done and to do.

Since my ownership I've done an oil change and spark plugs.

Oil change was $160 because my mechanic used Liqui Moly, but Im switching back to Castrol Edge 10w60 within the next two weeks.

Spark Plugs was $300 lol kinda feel ripped off for that with (That $300 includes labour)

K&N air intake filter was $142

List of things to do

Rod Bearings look at probably $2800 after parts and labour
Brakes + Rotors - around $2200ish
Tires + Rims = somewhere around $2000
Oil change again, but will be more for the different brand of oil = ??$$??
Cabin Airfilter = $120??

Cost could get lower with the help of you guys with suggestions and stuff.
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      12-22-2017, 07:12 PM   #7
BramptonE90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsGary View Post
I have a note in my phone that keeps track of things done and to do.

Since my ownership I've done an oil change and spark plugs.

Oil change was $160 because my mechanic used Liqui Moly, but Im switching back to Castrol Edge 10w60 within the next two weeks.

Spark Plugs was $300 lol kinda feel ripped off for that with (That $300 includes labour)

K&N air intake filter was $142

List of things to do

Rod Bearings look at probably $2800 after parts and labour
Brakes + Rotors - around $2200ish
Tires + Rims = somewhere around $2000
Oil change again, but will be more for the different brand of oil = ??$$??
Cabin Airfilter = $120??

Cost could get lower with the help of you guys with suggestions and stuff.

why are you switching back to castrol ?
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      12-22-2017, 09:50 PM   #8
ItsGary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BramptonE90 View Post
why are you switching back to castrol ?
///M-Power Belgium recommended to switch back, I was running Liqui Moly with Ceratec oil additive
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      12-23-2017, 02:51 AM   #9
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Liquimoly oil is perfectly fine, people have submitted oil analysis here with using LM10w60 and the results were perfect, there was no elevated levels of metal and Blackstone even said changing the oil later is fine also, as people were doing 5000 miles intervals on it.
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      12-23-2017, 04:39 PM   #10
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I track everything via an excel spreadsheet that I found, and it tells me when I'm due for stuff. But most of that are easy mile based.

I spent money on parts once, since I buy them from FCPEuro and use their lifetime warranty. Spent nowhere near you did, especially on oil though. I probably bought 20 oil filters or something for the price you paid.
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      12-27-2017, 06:37 PM   #11
Thik
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I have a 2010 6spd and put 100,000km on it in 5 years. Car has 150,000km on it. I change the oil myself and go to an indy for other stuff. The most I've spent is $1,500 on two throttle actuators that I installed myself.

All other maintenance items are less than $500. Still the same brakes and rotors and the computer says they're still good for 40,000km. Then again I never use the brakes. Clutch is perfect as is everything else except the seatbelt butler, which stopped catching the belt on the drivers side.

I'm not planning to do rod bearings.
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      12-28-2017, 05:55 PM   #12
cmyE93M3
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So, it seems were kinda in the same ballpark (most of us). Thanks for the input guys!
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