Track forum general chit chat.

[kyoo]

Originally Posted by dparm

Not sure I follow. It just slides between the pistons and the pad backing plate. The ones from Hard Brakes and GiroDisc have the special cutouts for the retention clips and pins.

Do you have pads with nibs or other weird things on the backing plate? If so, you can just grind those off:
https://hardbrakes.com/index.php?mai...lc9isyeST38m23

interesting - i actually did get my shims from hard brakes, but they were just a full flat plate. the ferodos do have nubs on the back as well as the retention clips for the piston on one side and clipping into the caliper housing on the other, but i was talking to a guy who makes raybestos st43s for the M3 and he said he can just make the pad with a flat backing plate, no retention clips or anything - which is a little bit more what I'm accustomed to

[Ximian]

After these fluid changes, my garage reeks and I didn't even spill. Who makes the best fully synthetic tropical scented diff fluid?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Ximian

After these fluid changes, my garage reeks and I didn't even spill. Who makes the best fully synthetic tropical scented diff fluid?

Gear lubes smell bad because they have sulphur compounds in them.

Some ester-based engine oils actually smell sweet, so maybe open one of those? I remember Motul 300V smelling like bananas.

[M3 Number 86]

Anyone else struggling getting harness on timely? I'm always late to grid.

https://instagram.com/p/BlvgebujiTu/

[dparm]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

Anyone else struggling getting harness on timely? I'm always late to grid.

https://instagram.com/p/BlvgebujiTu/

LOL, it does take me about 30 seconds to get everything connected and verify it's sitting on the HANS correctly. Are you loosening your lap belt every time you get out of the car?

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by dparm

LOL, it does take me about 30 seconds to get everything connected and verify it's sitting on the HANS correctly. Are you loosening your lap belt every time you get out of the car?

No and I have to maneuver around blubber

[Shmelgy]

A buddy of mine is taking a dyno class for fun at pierce college and asked me to come down to see what the e92 is putting down. I don't have a stock baseline, so I know the numbers really don't mean anything, but figured I'd share anyways.

I have a tune from Alex@Alpine and catless Gintani xpipe. Stock airbox, stock filter (bmc just came in today), and motul 300v 20w60.

Happy with the curves and power given how hot and humid it was in the valley

380hp and 280ft/lbs

[CorruptCommie]

How you like that 20w-60?

[roastbeef]

whats the thought process on the 20-60?

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Ximian

After these fluid changes, my garage reeks and I didn't even spill. Who makes the best fully synthetic tropical scented diff fluid?

My wife always complains when I replace the rear diff fluid. I've learned to drain it first and dump it into my waste bottles, then drain trans fluid into pan (and dump), then engine oil. Double rinses the pan so there isn't much diff oil residue left in there until the next oil change.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Ximian

After these fluid changes, my garage reeks and I didn't even spill. Who makes the best fully synthetic tropical scented diff fluid?

Try kerns nectar guava. Or is it too thick? Lol

[roastbeef]

I keep a bowl of diff oil near the entrance of the garage as a deterrent to keep the wife out... she might discover new car parts or tires.

[CorruptCommie]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

whats the thought process on the 20-60?

Race oil. Motul 300V only has 15w-50 or 20w-60. Red Line only has 50wt (15w-50) - what I'm testing out right now. Curious about the Motul - might be tough for cold starts? I don't fire up the track car unless it's getting moved on the driveway, put on the trailer, or about to go out for a session, so not as big of a concern.

[roastbeef]

i'm not going to pretend to know all about this, but i was curious if it was used to remedy something with hydraulic lifters or something during cold starts. this is the first time i've read of someone using a thicker oil in that way... i was curious if i was missing out on some secret.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

Try kerns nectar guava. Or is it too thick? Lol

I don't think we have any "Kern's" products around here so I'll have to consult the advisors at Target to find a BMW approved equivalent. In before some recommends Market Pantry apple juice

Did you run your Fancy Wide diffuser on track? If so, how was it?

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Ximian

I don't think we have any "Kern's" products around here so I'll have to consult the advisors at Target to find a BMW approved equivalent. In before some recommends Market Pantry apple juice

Did you run your Fancy Wide diffuser on track? If so, how was it?

Not yet will do in September but it's a fancy form over function piece for sure

[Shmelgy]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

whats the thought process on the 20-60?

The car is a dedicated track car and Casey from racewerkz recommended using it. I don't know much about oil but went with his suggestion.

#becauseracecar

[Mantii]

Originally Posted by Shmelgy

The car is a dedicated track car and Casey from racewerkz recommended using it. I don't know much about oil but went with his suggestion.

#becauseracecar

I have a few cans of Motul 20w60 that I'll be testing once I'm through with the Rowe Racing 10w60 oil

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

Anyone else struggling getting harness on timely? I'm always late to grid.

https://instagram.com/p/BlvgebujiTu/

Lol...slithering over the cage door bars isn't so bad but the 6pt definitely takes a minute or two. The HANS is the biggest PIA. It's easier to leave it connected then it makes putting the harness together much harder. I can do the HANS last but the posts I have are kind of a pain to do blind. One side is always finicky.

Some highly entertaining first 3 minutes. It doesn't help when you get a shoulder strap twisted.

Originally Posted by Shmelgy

A buddy of mine is taking a dyno class for fun at pierce college and asked me to come down to see what the e92 is putting down. I don't have a stock baseline, so I know the numbers really don't mean anything, but figured I'd share anyways.

I have a tune from Alex@Alpine and catless Gintani xpipe. Stock airbox, stock filter (bmc just came in today), and motul 300v 20w60.

Happy with the curves and power given how hot and humid it was in the valley

380hp and 280ft/lbs

Those are some pretty good numbers!

[dparm]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Lol...slithering over the cage door bars isn't so bad but the 6pt definitely takes a minute or two. The HANS is the biggest PIA. It's easier to leave it connected then it makes putting the harness together much harder. I can do the HANS last but the posts I have are kind of a pain to do blind. One side is always finicky.

I never disconnect the HANS from the helmet. Takes too much time to attach/reattach than it does to just maneuver the HANS over your neck and then slide the helmet on.

I have a Sport 3 which has the lower and more rounded backing piece.

[Visceral]

Blarg. I attempted to swap out the Castrol 0w-60 for some Redline 15w-50 to see if it reduced oil temps.

Along the way, I stripped the front oil pan drain plug threads (can explain how it happened... it never took more than 10 lb/ft). 100's of oil changes in my life and this is the first time I've ever stripped a drain bolt.

Dropped it off at AR Auto for whatever (heliocoil? re-tap larger? new oil pan?).

Our oil drain bolts are a spectacularly sh***y design to begin with. Putting them in aluminum threads is even worse.

[SQ13]

Originally Posted by Visceral

Blarg. I attempted to swap out the Castrol 0w-60 for some Redline 15w-50 to see if it reduced oil temps.

Along the way, I stripped the front oil pan drain plug threads (can explain how it happened... it never took more than 10 lb/ft). 100's of oil changes in my life and this is the first time I've ever stripped a drain bolt.

Dropped it off at AR Auto for whatever (heliocoil? re-tap larger? new oil pan?).

Our oil drain bolts are a spectacularly sh***y design to begin with. Putting them in aluminum threads is even worse.

I’m bringing my car to a shop for time cert install because they overtorqued my plug and caused the oil pan to strip. Should done the oil change myself...

Other recent bad news..... Replacing front calipers. Problem 1: one SS line did not want to come off and hex thing is rounded now. Need to order new BW SS lines... Problem B: when bleeding, I accidentally put old RBF600 in the reservoir (which was sitting in an old SRF bottle) instead of fresh SRF. Didn’t have enough SRF to do a complete flush, so I just ordered two bottles. Problem III: mushy pedal, only brakes hard when pedal is depressed more than 50%. Not sure if related to problem 1, B, or both.

One Federal FZ-201 tire has a crack going across the tread. Forget what it’s called; delamination?

Because of brake issue, I can’t register for track event yet.

Good news: no other issues found during tech inspection.

FML