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01-02-2015, 07:18 PM | #45 |
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Hmmm.. I wonder if it'd be worthwhile for those of us who haven't experienced a failure yet to go in a clean the gears. My idle has been on the fritz as of late. Once in a while, the idle will start fluctuating.
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01-02-2015, 09:56 PM | #46 | |
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Quote:
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DrFerry6730.00 |
01-03-2015, 03:47 AM | #48 |
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Alpina527 has supplied various replacement sets of gears to members on the M3Cutters forum which I believe have been well received. He has however also been helping with trying to diagnose a trend with these electrical faults by providing me with a faulty m3 and m5 boards, so I can vouch for his assistive/determined character!
I cannot speak from first hand experienced re his gears as I sourced from another supplier - but I am yet to receive or test them so holding judgement before disclosing details. |
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01-03-2015, 10:52 AM | #49 |
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I replaced my actuators yesterday, and snapped some quick photos of the half gear, ptfe gear and board. I can take other pics if anyone likes.
Both actuators operate smoothly. I lubed up the rail and ball with some anti-seize. There was not much of any lube on them previously. The squeaking is gone now, however. I'll place these in the following order: Bank1 (No faults)
Bank2 (failed bank, you can see a lot of ptfe gear shavings)
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01-03-2015, 05:48 PM | #51 |
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Drives: e92 m3 & f30 328i
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01-09-2015, 11:58 PM | #54 | |
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Are there any kind of update on your actuators Sean? Are they functioning ok with the replacement of Fet and gears?? Any issues??? Luck on sourcing the replacement gears?? Any tips and instructions on replacing the semiconductor?? Much thanks Sean!
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01-10-2015, 12:26 AM | #55 | |
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Thanks Beemdog....ordered up 6. It's cheaper to go with Digi-key for those in the states.
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01-13-2015, 11:02 AM | #57 |
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Hi all.
I'm sorry to say (read as 'I'm very frustrated') it looks like I jumped the gun in considering this issue as fixed. After multiple times of replacing the blown Fets, and indeed the motor (which had play in the shaft). It seems the Fets have blown again. Sadly due to the need to have my car on the road (my significant other is very heavily pregnant) I have had to bite the bullet and buy a new actuator from the stealers . It is quite clear they are being overloaded but what exactly is causing that isn't clear at this time. When time allows me, and I get some enthusiasm back, it will be my intention to further dissect and test both the motor and electric board. However I am by no means an electrical expert so don't really know what I'm looking for. Luckily, my dad is an electrical engineer but he lives in California...he's hoping to visit in April/May so I'll try and get him to assist with the diagnosis, but until then I don't expect to make much progress. |
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06-06-2015, 04:42 PM | #59 |
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This thread is epic. I've been posting about this (similar issue, but definitely the same part). I picked up a couple of transistors today, but they are SLIGHTLY different on the data sheet. I'm going to give them a shot and see how they are. This will also tell us if the transistors used (assuming the ones you used are identical to factory spec) are not properly rated. I know this could go on for a while and fail on me if it even works, but I'll let you guys know how it goes. Sub'd for sure on this one
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06-07-2015, 07:36 PM | #62 |
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Just posed with pics in my other thread. Unfortunately my boards look completely fine and the gears completely worn. It's not permanently in limp mode after screwing with them.
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...1#post18047761 Update to those who read this already: it is **NOW** in permanent limp mode. Last edited by bmwlover0725; 06-07-2015 at 08:57 PM.. |
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06-19-2015, 08:19 AM | #64 |
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It would seem like some good preventative maintenance would be to replace the gears early considering what the actuators cost.
I don't suppose there's a source to just get the stock plastic gears themselves? |
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06-19-2015, 09:32 AM | #66 |
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