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      03-11-2015, 12:56 AM   #1
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let's talk about wheel studs!

hey guys, i'm picking up a set of track wheels/tires soon and i'll likely be doing a stud conversion.

i'm not likely going to run spacers. there seem to be different kits that offer different materials, different diameters (thicker studs) and different styles of nuts.

if you have a set of studs, what would you change or do differently if you were ordering again?

these caught my eye, but are they gimmicky?
http://ind-distribution.com/ind/cate...ng-lugnuts-set

how about the weight of some kits? is it possible to save a pound per corner with some kits?

and how about the turner motorsports bullet nose studs with "dry lube" coated threads? not too expensive for some product with some good points in the description.
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/show...30-e36-e46-e9x

thoughts?
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      03-11-2015, 01:23 AM   #2
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Not likely to save weight unless go with titanium set which are crazy expensive and even race teams dont use. I like the turner or bimmerworld products. I have sheared other studs in under a year.
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      03-11-2015, 02:43 AM   #3
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i found a thread on an e28 board where a guy was making titanium wheel studs/bolts. he was selling them and they offered some weight savings (not exactly sure how much), but i wouldn't run a non-torture tested stud. i'm not sure titanium would hold up, either.
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      03-11-2015, 04:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD
Not likely to save weight unless go with titanium set which are crazy expensive and even race teams dont use. I like the turner or bimmerworld products. I have sheared other studs in under a year.
This.
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      03-11-2015, 07:44 AM   #5
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Don't go crazy spending money on these, studs and nuts are replaceable items. You should be replacing them periodically if tracking your car. I've use the BW studs but I think those Turner studs are a new item. I don't remember them having a bull nosed stud in different lengths. Nice.
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      03-11-2015, 07:41 PM   #6
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yea, i'm thinking i like the turner motorsports design.
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      03-12-2015, 12:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Not likely to save weight unless go with titanium set which are crazy expensive and even race teams dont use. I like the turner or bimmerworld products. I have sheared other studs in under a year.
Care to elaborate on which brands you did not like?

To OP,

I've read that Vorschlag makes a good kit. http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=389
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      03-12-2015, 12:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
Care to elaborate on which brands you did not like?

To OP,

I've read that Vorschlag makes a good kit. http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=389
Not really. I could have been unlucky but I won't use any besides the turner or bimmerworld race at this point. Drilling out broken studs isn't that fun. I changed previously at a yearly interval but now have stretched that to 2 seasons.
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      03-12-2015, 12:53 PM   #9
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Would not recommend Titanium studs, we saw an instance in which all 5 Titanium studs sheered off at a track event a few years ago, sending the wheel straight down the strip:



The broken studs can clearly be seen spit out by the wheel on the ground after sheering. The weight savings is simply not worth the risk involved.

Safety first.
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      03-12-2015, 03:51 PM   #10
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I recommend bullet nose. Make sure of your dimensions before you order and think about if you will run spacers or not. Some shops use the length to mean threaded versus overall versus from face of rotor, so look at dimensional drawings carefully.

The last place I used was track-studs.com
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      03-12-2015, 05:24 PM   #11
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Thanks for the feedback. I ended up ordering the 75 mm bullet nose studs from turner.
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      03-12-2015, 06:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surlynkid View Post
I recommend bullet nose. Make sure of your dimensions before you order and think about if you will run spacers or not. Some shops use the length to mean threaded versus overall versus from face of rotor, so look at dimensional drawings carefully.

The last place I used was track-studs.com
Can you tell me why you recommend bullet nose? I've had both versions (from APEX, the redesigned version found here: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1042423) and have gone back to the style with the hex key on the tip. Yes the bullet nose ones are rounded for (negligibly) faster wheel changes and (negligibly) less damage to the wheel if you line it up wrong, and arguably look "better", but is there anything else that you can add to that list to make them worth the pain of installing them?

From my experience, installing the bullet nose studs with the double nut method is much more time consuming and annoying than the hex key versions. Not worth the added "benefits" to me, but that's just my opinion.

I'm not talking down the bullet nose version but am curious if there is something I'm missing...
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      03-12-2015, 07:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin///mlee View Post
I'm not talking down the bullet nose version but am curious if there is something I'm missing...
Bullet nose doesn't refer to the shape of the tip of the stud. Bullet nose means it's threads are tapered at the beginning making it virtually impossible to cross-thread, even with an impact gun. If you're swapping wheels and tires ALL THE TIME, they're a life-saver and a time-saver. You can have bullet nose style stud AND a hex key on the tip. They are a significant cost in the production process and can easily translate to a more expensive merchandize (because you're adding the bullet on up to 20 studs, the addition of $1.50 in machine cost to bullet the nose of the stud can add $30 to the cost of the whole set).

I think Rogue studs are both bullet AND hex key installed.



Quote:
• 75mm stud length, with 12mm smooth bullet nose
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      03-12-2015, 07:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin///mlee View Post
I'm not talking down the bullet nose version but am curious if there is something I'm missing...
Bullet nose doesn't refer to the shape of the tip of the stud. Bullet nose means it's threads are tapered at the beginning making it virtually impossible to cross-thread, even with an impact gun. If you're swapping wheels and tires ALL THE TIME, they're a life-saver and a time-saver. You can have bullet nose style stud AND a hex key on the tip. They are a significant cost in the production process and can easily translate to a more expensive merchandize (because you're adding the bullet on up to 20 studs, the addition of $1.50 in machine cost to bullet the nose of the stud can add $30 to the cost of the whole set).

I think Rogue studs are both bullet AND hex key installed.



Quote:
75mm stud length, with 12mm smooth bullet nose
Thanks for clarifying. I was referring to round nose vs hex key tip. I agree that the tapered threads are a must and I think most studs on the market for our cars are this style
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      03-12-2015, 07:34 PM   #15
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Kevin,

Order the stud install/removal sockets from Koken. I have the whole set. I will have all 4 corners done while you are still cursing on the first corner. I use bullet nose because my wheels are on and off a LOT. I want them to go on without buggering up threads or wheels. They also allow the lug nut to center better and quicker when installing them. My reasons are primarily track related. But as long as you are buying them, why not just get bullet nose. BTW, a split lock washer between the double nut speeds up that technique.

I will have to check but I don't think my race studs are tapered. They just have a nice long smooth round nose to get the lug nut centered
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      03-22-2015, 08:55 AM   #16
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The important spec is the stud being a grade 10.9. Bullet nose or hex head...they are mostly the same.

The problem with studs, as I'm finding out here in the north, is keeping the wheel hub clean is more of a challenge. Just like the stud, it is important to keep the contact surfaces clean (back of the wheel, rotor hat face and hub lip) to make sure you keep the wheel vibration free. BMW's procedure specifies this. No stud will last long if there is vibration through the wheel.

I wouldn't necessarily blame wheel studs as the reason for a wheel falling off. More commonly it is the fault of the buffoon who installed your wheel. They didn't seat the wheel correctly.
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      03-22-2015, 11:23 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surlynkid View Post
Kevin,

Order the stud install/removal sockets from Koken. I have the whole set. I will have all 4 corners done while you are still cursing on the first corner. I use bullet nose because my wheels are on and off a LOT. I want them to go on without buggering up threads or wheels. They also allow the lug nut to center better and quicker when installing them. My reasons are primarily track related. But as long as you are buying them, why not just get bullet nose. BTW, a split lock washer between the double nut speeds up that technique.

I will have to check but I don't think my race studs are tapered. They just have a nice long smooth round nose to get the lug nut centered
What size thread is the stud or which stud puller from koken is the right one?
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      03-22-2015, 11:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976
The important spec is the stud being a grade 10.9. Bullet nose or hex head...they are mostly the same.

The problem with studs, as I'm finding out here in the north, is keeping the wheel hub clean is more of a challenge. Just like the stud, it is important to keep the contact surfaces clean (back of the wheel, rotor hat face and hub lip) to make sure you keep the wheel vibration free. BMW's procedure specifies this. No stud will last long if there is vibration through the wheel.

I wouldn't necessarily blame wheel studs as the reason for a wheel falling off. More commonly it is the fault of the buffoon who installed your wheel. They didn't seat the wheel correctly.
Can you elaborate little bit more about what you mean when you say clean mounting surface? I'm assuming you're talking about snow, salt, or sand for snow conditions?
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      03-22-2015, 05:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
Can you elaborate little bit more about what you mean when you say clean mounting surface? I'm assuming you're talking about snow, salt, or sand for snow conditions?
Where the wheel mates with the wheel hub. Dirt, debris and stuff...and corrosion too. It needs to be clean. A light coat of anti seize won't hurt. Or wheel bearing grease but that becomes a big mess later on.

If those surfaces are not clean then you significantly reduce the contact area between the wheel and hub which is where the strength is. Not in the wheel studs. It don't take much...just a small piece of debris in the paddock to get in between. IMO, this just as if not more important than properly torqueing your wheels.

I'd bet my $$$ on the wheel not being seated properly in cases where all 5 studs broke off.
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      03-22-2015, 05:48 PM   #20
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Got my second set from ebay, absolutely no difference from the MS ones I got before, $30 shipped. Marketing = $$$$ .
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      03-22-2015, 07:36 PM   #21
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i swapped out my track wheels for my street wheels today for the first time. the studs worked well and made it easy, and the nuts threaded on quite easy.
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      03-23-2015, 03:53 PM   #22
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anyone know if bmw is going to give me a hard time when my front brakes are due? are they going to have to remove the studs to replace the rotors?
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