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12-21-2022, 08:43 AM | #45 |
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12-21-2022, 04:03 PM | #46 | |
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I ended up using just going by what I'd normally torque stock bolts to on most cars. 80 ft/lb for the adapter bolts and then 60 ft/lb for the smaller caliper to adapter bolts. 20 ft/lb for the banjo bolt for brake line on the caliper. I don't know if these are correct but I just went with this as it looked within the range. They advised using locktite on the caliper bolts. Again, no mention what kind. I used red high temp locktite. As for the washers, they're optional from what they say. They go on the bolts holding the caliper to the adapter. It is just there to prevent scratching the top of the caliper when you tighten the bolt. I was able to get one on but the other washer is too large for the one of the bolts.
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12-21-2022, 04:14 PM | #48 |
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The kit is identical to the BuildJournal kit. It looks like that one doesn't have washers as well. The adapter brackets even have the same part number stamped on them.
They say it is nearly identical brake bias to the stock e46 M3 brakes based on size of disk, radial pad height, piston size. No mention about E90/92 M3 in this article. https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...r-is-the-best/
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12-22-2022, 03:49 AM | #49 |
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I ended up using just going by what I'd normally torque stock bolts to on most cars. 80 ft/lb for the adapter bolts and then 60 ft/lb for the smaller caliper to adapter bolts. UNQUOTE You mean 80 ft/lb for the longer black bolts that go through the caliper to the bracket and 60 ft/lb on the shorter silver bolts?
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12-22-2022, 12:53 PM | #50 | |
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The shorter bolts hold the adapter to the hub, stock torque specs is 80 ft/lb for the caliper carrier bolt into the hub. The longer bolts hold the caliper to the adapter. The caliper is aluminum with the aluminum adapter so it not designed for as much torque. I used 60 ft/lb for that. With locktite on both, they should not come loose. Edit: I found a DIY for the Build Journal kit which uses the same hardware. Looks like I over torqued both bolts. They say 50ft/lb for both bolts. Trimming of heat shield was not necessary for e92. https://thebuildjournal.com/diy-inst...t-install-diy/
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01-01-2023, 02:25 AM | #51 |
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Hey Z K any update on the 4-pots? I haven’t got around doing mine yet…..
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01-01-2023, 04:32 PM | #53 |
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01-02-2023, 11:43 PM | #54 | |
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Street driving is ok so far. Took it up some twisty mountain roads and it was working fine.
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04-25-2023, 03:47 PM | #56 |
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Got to get out to the track this weekend to finally test out this brake set up.
The brakes held up well. I had some brake fluid leak from the nipple. This is from not tightening the brake nipple enough - this is not a big issue. It was fine for street but on track the extra heat and pressure caused it to seep. Tighten it a bit more and all good. The Project Mu brake pads look burnt from the track day heat but operate fine. The below picture is after 30 min on the 1st session. I found the leaking brake fluid and did a quick bleed. In terms of cosmetics, brake fluid will eat the caliper paint... you can see the fluid drip marks on the caliper. Not that noticeable but just FYI to be careful with brake fluid. No brake bias issues. The caliper definitely works better than the stock sliding caliper. You can modulate the brakes better and the brake pedal stayed firm longer than it would with the stock calipers. For the price ($800), this is definitely a good budget upgrade for track duty. Also looks good if you just want nice bolt on Brembos for your car. I'm really kicking myself for not doing this earlier! Here's a video of my fastest lap of the day:
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04-25-2023, 04:35 PM | #57 | |
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Project Mu Type PS is good if you don't track. It'll handle handle more heat and produce less dust than stock pads. If you don't go to the track the Endless MX72 works good as well. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, you can just get The Freaky Parts kit with the Brembo pads it includes. They'll work for most driving situations except track.
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04-26-2023, 11:20 AM | #59 |
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Haha, it's my bad habits from years of autocrossing. I think it is similar to gymkhana in Europe?
In autocross you often have very sharp corners where you need to go full lock so my hand positions change all the time as you shuffle the wheel. Same with drifting where you need to hold slide angle while modulating with the throttle. But yeah, totally not needed for most track driving. Here's an autocross example:
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05-30-2023, 10:45 PM | #60 |
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I ordered my kit today. I will be out at Mvading the dragon event in late June. I just went with the Brembo pads for now. They should be fine for dragon.
I was thinking of doing a video for the Tube. |
06-10-2023, 07:50 PM | #61 |
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Anyone using slotted rotors versus drilled (If I missed this in previous post I apologize)?
And for what it is worth on the torque specs: From my Brembo GT kit: Screw type M12x1.5 115Nm and M14x1.5 170Nm Last edited by bigsky23; 06-10-2023 at 08:44 PM.. |
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06-12-2023, 02:55 PM | #62 | |
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I don't have a preference for either. If I had a choice, I'd use blank rotors as that as the most surface area for the pad to grip. Slotted rotors "clean" pads and wear them out faster. Drilled rotor holes fill up with brake dust on track and get clogged so there is no added cooling.
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06-15-2023, 07:56 AM | #64 |
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So my kit came in yesterday, about 430p. Grabbed dinner and such. Started around 7p and finished by 10p. Even the stupid disc set screws didn't stop me. Everything fit perfect. Drove for a couple minutes to make sure it worked. Drove this morning, works great! I'm still trying to figure why I didn't do this years ago.
Once I get home today I will snap some pics. |
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06-17-2023, 12:21 AM | #65 | |
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