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      02-15-2011, 09:00 PM   #1
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CG-Lock worth getting for track days?

I've searched and read some things about the CG-lock for our stock seat belt. Until a real harness comes out for the E92 M3, I was tempted to get one of these for track days, it's only 50 bucks.

What do people think--is it any good?

I drive a DCT, so I have the left dead foot rest to help wedge me in, so unsure if it will help keep me more snug in the seat or not.
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      02-15-2011, 11:40 PM   #2
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That's what I use for track days. Not as good as the Schroth quick-fit I had in my E46 but better than stock belts with nothing else...
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      02-15-2011, 11:45 PM   #3
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Also have it since years. Works fine for me, I recommend it for trackday use or safety trainings...
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      02-16-2011, 12:19 AM   #4
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I've used it for two track days and it worked well for me.
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      02-16-2011, 06:36 AM   #5
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I just picked one up a few weeks ago based on the positive feedback I had heard from others I had met at the track using it. I figured the same as you, its only $50, might as well give it a shot.
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      02-16-2011, 07:40 AM   #6
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I just got mine in the mail... need to read the instruction booklet on how to install it...
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      02-16-2011, 09:15 AM   #7
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It does make a difference. You have a lighter grip on the steering wheel which makes a difference with your driving. I will look at my before and after track film and see if it obvious and post if it is.

I am planning on getting a harness installed anyway, but I endorse the CG lock!
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      02-16-2011, 06:59 PM   #8
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I think you're better off to lock in the three-point belt, which then gives you the shoulder restraint as well. Pull the seat back, lock the belt against the internal ratchet, and then pull the seat up to your driving position. It needs to be almost painfully tight, but it has always worked for me. Whether DCT or not, you need some additional support when left foot braking. Obviously, a real harness system is much better, but should only be used in cars with at least a 4-point bar for roll-over protection.
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      02-16-2011, 07:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elh0102 View Post
I think you're better off to lock in the three-point belt, which then gives you the shoulder restraint as well. Pull the seat back, lock the belt against the internal ratchet, and then pull the seat up to your driving position. It needs to be almost painfully tight, but it has always worked for me. Whether DCT or not, you need some additional support when left foot braking. Obviously, a real harness system is much better, but should only be used in cars with at least a 4-point bar for roll-over protection.
+1

I stopped using my CG lock, the procedure above is more effective.
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      02-16-2011, 09:35 PM   #10
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I've been using one for 3 years now. Sans harness availability it's a must for track days. I still end up with bruises on my left leg. I may go back to adding foam to my race pants. I I'm hoping a quick fit pro will be release soon. Been waiting for two years now.
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      02-17-2011, 10:46 AM   #11
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I used one before I had my harnesses installed and it is very much worth the $50.
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      02-17-2011, 02:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elh0102 View Post
I think you're better off to lock in the three-point belt, which then gives you the shoulder restraint as well. Pull the seat back, lock the belt against the internal ratchet, and then pull the seat up to your driving position. It needs to be almost painfully tight, but it has always worked for me. Whether DCT or not, you need some additional support when left foot braking. Obviously, a real harness system is much better, but should only be used in cars with at least a 4-point bar for roll-over protection.
Don't buy one! Use the directions above ^......I have used this on all my cars that did not have harnesses and it works great..... And it will cost you $0.00....
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      02-17-2011, 03:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elh0102 View Post
I think you're better off to lock in the three-point belt, which then gives you the shoulder restraint as well. Pull the seat back, lock the belt against the internal ratchet, and then pull the seat up to your driving position. It needs to be almost painfully tight, but it has always worked for me. Whether DCT or not, you need some additional support when left foot braking. Obviously, a real harness system is much better, but should only be used in cars with at least a 4-point bar for roll-over protection.

what do you mean internal ratchet?
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      02-17-2011, 08:47 PM   #14
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i bought one and sold it to a fellow member on the forum. it didnt do that much for me personally. i needed more lateral support and i thought the CG lock would solve that issue but it didnt help as much as i thought it would. a fixed back shell like a recaro pole position seat would help a lot more.
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      02-18-2011, 08:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r53s65e90 View Post
I haven't tightened my seat belt before and I would if I could safely. I would prefer the belt tightening technique instead of CG-lock.

A big question though: Is it possible for the latch to become very difficult to unlatch in the case of an emergency (fire?) if the belt is pre-tightened like described above???

Also what are the consequences of an already tight torso belt during an impact?
During an impact, the seat belt has small explosive that fire to tighten the seat belt and hold you tightly into the seat any way. There is a two stage system, one pre-tensions the belt (you feel this when you turn hard or brake hard) that is designed to pull you upright into the seat closer to the optimal position for the air-bag deployment. During impact, the explosives in the locking mechanism fire at the same time as the air-bag to hold you upright in your seat in the optimal position for impact (based on the seat design) and air-bag deployment.

This is an interesting angle about the harness roll-over debate. There is a school of thought that you should not use a harness in a car without a roll cage, the argument being that you can slide down or sideways to avoid a crumpling roof (please correct me here if this is wrong, or only one reason - it is the only one I have consistently heard). Aside from the difficulties of achieving this manouver in the middle of a crash, the seat belt mechanism is designed to hold you upright and begins long before the car is spinning in the air (again, go around a corner quickly and feel the seat belt. If you have never felt this, you need to sell your M3 and get a 328 or something). Also, the airbags will deploy, again holding you in an upright position. To be honest, I am not a race car safety engineer, or an auto engineer, so I don't know what the limits are, but I wonder if the roll-cage/harness thing is specific to race cars, or older cars where roof collapse was a common thing as less strengthening for safety was incorporated in car design - one reason why our cars are heavier.

Anyway, I'll stand back and get flamed now!

Have at it!

Last edited by LiM3y; 02-18-2011 at 08:56 AM..
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      03-07-2011, 07:47 PM   #16
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Is this CG-lock doesn't comparable with stock seat belt system? I just installed one, now everytime when I start the car, the seat belt doesn't push out automatically anymore.
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      03-08-2011, 12:03 PM   #17
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For $50 it's worth at least trying it out.

I don't have a CG-Lok so I'd have to second the "extend belt to ratcheting then cinch down the lap belt" but I do an additional trick as well: before putting the tab into the latch, tighten the lap belt, then twist the tab a full (not half) turn (this "locks" the belt into the tab slider) and then insert into the buckle. Doing a half turn will apply pressure on the buckle and possibly accelerate any release failure.

I have done this continuously with any of my street autocross cars and that, coupled with the "extend belt to ratcheting" has always given a good (not harness good though) position-holding setup.

For the "extend belt to ratcheting", it's a feature in use with all modern 3-point belt systems to support the secure installation of a child seat. The lap belt is pulled tight and to ensure the upright portion is secured, the belt is pulled all the way out until you hear a "ratcheting" sound. At that point when you release the belt into the tensioner it can only go one way. This is what you want to secure the shoulder belt tightly for your driving sessions.

Best of luck!
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      03-08-2011, 12:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwjd15 View Post
Is this CG-lock doesn't comparable with stock seat belt system? I just installed one, now everytime when I start the car, the seat belt doesn't push out automatically anymore.
Maybe it's the weight of the CGLock? Since I'm in an E90 I don't have the "auto-deliver" seatbelts, but I have noticed the buckle sags a little when I have mine installed.
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      03-08-2011, 01:00 PM   #19
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I use a hybrid approach - CG lock and inertia-reel method. I'll explain...


I always install the CG lock, if nothing else it removes one level of variables from the seatbelt equation - since the bottom part will now be tightly locked into place, the only one which can still move is the upper part of the belt.

For that, I use the inertia reel - suddenly yanking on the upper belt as close to the B pillar as possible, thus locking it into place.


So the procedure might look like this:
1) pull the seat backwards a good amount, until I basically can no longer use the pedals - this can be used in conjunction with tilting the seatback rearwards for even more control
2) put the seatbelt on and tighten the CG-lock into position - lower belt is now locked - don't tighten this as much as possible because of step 5
3) grab the belt as close to the B pillar as possible and give it a hefty yank - it should lock on
4) evaluate the slack you now have in the upper portion of the belt - if too much, repeat step 3 (and possibly also 1)
5) when satisfied with the level of slack, pull the seat forwards and/or tilt the seatback into the correct position - this tightens both the upper/lower portions of the seatbelt
6) please make sure all your inner organs are where they should be - don't squeeze them too much
7) needless to say, tighten the adjustable bolsters as much as you can

End result is you are locked/suspended into position. Play with this at home, after a few tries you will be able to get a very repeatable result. Drive around a bit like this, the difference should be immediate and very obvious.


The benefits on track are as specified by others on this thread:
- frees up your hands from having to support your body
- greater confidence and foot control for braking maneuvers
- makes left foot braking possible
- no more left foot bruises

Disadvantages:
- only one I can think of is that in some heel & toe situations when you want to use the heel (as opposed to say the right portion of the foot), it's slightly harder to contort into the correct position
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