**SOLVED/FIXED!* Paddle shifters stopped working w/ fault code...what gives?

[BeaterM3]

Kind of sucked revving it up and having it not shift lol

They've been working since I bought the car...just quit working yesterday.

There has been a fault code sitting in the system since I've had it though:

Fault Code: 005A73
Fault Explaination: :Paddles: faulty voltage value

I was planning to remove the airbag and check the paddle connections at some point...anyone else here have any ideas?

[BeaterM3]

No one?

[Snoball M3]

Have you tried disconnecting and connecting the battery ?

[Scrippy]

I doubt there is a wire issue. I'd lean towards old battery. Check the date on the battery.

[BeaterM3]

The battery is pretty old. 52/13 - so the last week of 2013 - over 5 1/2 years old.

I know an old battery can do funky things but would an old battery only give trouble to one specific part (like just the paddle shifters) without anything else glitching out? The paddle fault is the only fault the car has.

I haven't tried to disconnect the battery yet. That would be my first step (along with getting into the wiring behind the airbag).

Also, all the buttons on the steering wheel and all the stems are working. Only the paddle shifters are not.

Maybe I will swing by Autozone over the weekend and replace the battery first and see how that goes. I should do that before winter hits anyways.

[BeaterM3]

So checked the battery voltage from the dash.

Drove it home last night ... my commute to and from work is very short. 2-3 miles each way. Just enough to get my engine up to 210. I try to extend the drive as much as I can. Daily daytime temps have been between 82-89 though.

This morning the battery read 12.0v sitting...turned over and idling it went between 14.1 -14.3v.

Started driving, it maintained 14.1 - 14.3v but dipped a few times depending on load (slowing down etc).

I stopped to get a coffee...temp was almost at 175 at this point...turned it off to see what I would get on coming back. Sitting voltage was 12.4v ... turned over it was between 13.9 - 14.1v. It also dipped down when slowing down while downshifting.

When I pulled up to work and put it in neutral, it was back up to 14.1 - 14.3v

I would assume it would be a low battery right? Morning voltage was 12.0 ... driving voltage was 14.1 - 14.3 -- meaning the battery capacity has decreased and the it wont hold full charge from the alternator? Normal sitting voltage should be 12.3 - 12.6? And driving should be 14.3 - 14.7?

Again, the battery has a 52/13 make date ... so about 5.5 years old.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by revengeismine

So checked the battery voltage from the dash.

Drove it home last night ... my commute to and from work is very short. 2-3 miles each way. Just enough to get my engine up to 210. I try to extend the drive as much as I can. Daily daytime temps have been between 82-89 though.

This morning the battery read 12.0v sitting...turned over and idling it went between 14.1 -14.3v.

Started driving, it maintained 14.1 - 14.3v but dipped a few times depending on load (slowing down etc).

I stopped to get a coffee...temp was almost at 175 at this point...turned it off to see what I would get on coming back. Sitting voltage was 12.4v ... turned over it was between 13.9 - 14.1v. It also dipped down when slowing down while downshifting.

When I pulled up to work and put it in neutral, it was back up to 14.1 - 14.3v

I would assume it would be a low battery right? Morning voltage was 12.0 ... driving voltage was 14.1 - 14.3 -- meaning the battery capacity has decreased and the it wont hold full charge from the alternator? Normal sitting voltage should be 12.3 - 12.6? And driving should be 14.3 - 14.7?

Again, the battery has a 52/13 make date ... so about 5.5 years old.

Don't think the battery has to be bad. I read around - or under - 14v when the battery is fairly well charged, believe the higher voltages only kicks in (is possible) on its way to fully charge where after it goes down.
Soon as you open the car all sorts of electronics start to consume heavily hence the voltage is forced down quite a bit from unloaded 12.7 isch. Believe 12.3-12.4v is very healthy. 12v flat might be on the low side but still find it hard to believe that this would be an issue for the paddles, specially as you have good voltage when running the car.

I'd try to investigate the paddle circuit a bit closer, see if you can find a schematics somewhere, or pull the paddels and see if there are some misconnections?

[wfdeacon88]

Couldn't this be the somewhat typical paddle shifter balls becoming stuck inside the paddle housing? when I swapped mine, I did see the little ball can become inoperable if the grease stuff isn't correct

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Don't think the battery has to be bad. I read around - or under - 14v when the battery is fairly well charged, believe the higher voltages only kicks in (is possible) on its way to fully charge where after it goes down.
Soon as you open the car all sorts of electronics start to consume heavily hence the voltage is forced down quite a bit from unloaded 12.7 isch. Believe 12.3-12.4v is very healthy. 12v flat might be on the low side but still find it hard to believe that this would be an issue for the paddles, specially as you have good voltage when running the car.

I'd try to investigate the paddle circuit a bit closer, see if you can find a schematics somewhere, or pull the paddels and see if there are some misconnections?

Originally Posted by wfdeacon88

Couldn't this be the somewhat typical paddle shifter balls becoming stuck inside the paddle housing? when I swapped mine, I did see the little ball can become inoperable if the grease stuff isn't correct

I will give the paddle resistors and connections a look over the weekend before shelling out money for another battery if I don't need to. I have heard if one shifter goes, the other one goes as well?

I was thinking if it was the szl module, some of the other steering column/wheel parts would have stopped working as well.

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Don't think the battery has to be bad. I read around - or under - 14v when the battery is fairly well charged, believe the higher voltages only kicks in (is possible) on its way to fully charge where after it goes down.
Soon as you open the car all sorts of electronics start to consume heavily hence the voltage is forced down quite a bit from unloaded 12.7 isch. Believe 12.3-12.4v is very healthy. 12v flat might be on the low side but still find it hard to believe that this would be an issue for the paddles, specially as you have good voltage when running the car.

I'd try to investigate the paddle circuit a bit closer, see if you can find a schematics somewhere, or pull the paddels and see if there are some misconnections?

Well took off the steering and checked the paddles. Opened them up cleaned them a bit reinstalled. Still not working.

So I figure I am down to 3 causes:

Paddles themselves
The szl module
Old battery

I am leaning towards the paddles or the battery due to the 5A73 code which says faulty voltage. I figure if it was the szl other things wouldn't be working on the steering column.

After reconnecting the battery I started getting increased battery discharge warning.

Looks like I'm replacing the battery this week before anything.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by revengeismine

Well took off the steering and checked the paddles. Opened them up cleaned them a bit reinstalled. Still not working.

So I figure I am down to 3 causes:

Paddles themselves
The szl module
Old battery

I am leaning towards the paddles or the battery due to the 5A73 code which says faulty voltage. I figure if it was the szl other things wouldn't be working on the steering column.

After reconnecting the battery I started getting increased battery discharge warning.

Looks like I'm replacing the battery this week before anything.

Got it, with the discharge warning it seems you can't avoid a new battery anyway.

Good luck!

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Got it, with the discharge warning it seems you can't avoid a new battery anyway.

Good luck!

Thanks!

I threw it on the charger yesterday. The battery won't charge passed 12.4v (should be 12.7v from what I have read) so the battery is probably desulfating at this point and only holding a 65% capacity charge. But letting it sit overnight took care of the increased battery discharge - started up this morning with no message.

With that though, I ordered an Odyssey 49-950 from FCP yesterday and decided to replace the clock spring first before the paddles ($51 clock spring from a 2011 M3 DCT vs $200 used paddles).

I have read 2 other threads here that had both paddles shit themselves and the clock spring was replaced.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by revengeismine

Thanks!

I threw it on the charger yesterday. The battery won't charge passed 12.4v (should be 12.7v from what I have read) so the battery is probably desulfating at this point and only holding a 65% capacity charge. But letting it sit overnight took care of the increased battery discharge - started up this morning with no message.

With that though, I ordered an Odyssey 49-950 from FCP yesterday and decided to replace the clock spring first before the paddles ($51 clock spring from a 2011 M3 DCT vs $200 used paddles).

I have read 2 other threads here that had both paddles shit themselves and the clock spring was replaced.

A proper charger should pump up well over 14.5v (in AGM mode) before it decide the battery is full where after goes back to 13.5v isch resting voltage.

Seems strange your charger only takes it to 12.4v but battery still strong enough to start the car (again remember soon as you open car it will force down the voltage as charger only is a few amps, i.e. you need to wire it to the outside of the car to get a "true" reading).
Anyways seems you have a good plan!

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

A proper charger should pump up well over 14.5v (in AGM mode) before it decide the battery is full where after goes back to 13.5v isch resting voltage.

Seems strange your charger only takes it to 12.4v but battery still strong enough to start the car (again remember soon as you open car it will force down the voltage as charger only is a few amps, i.e. you need to wire it to the outside of the car to get a "true" reading).
Anyways seems you have a good plan!

The charger I have isn't really the best. Only 2amp and 6amp setting. I need to buy a Ctek 3300 or 4.3.

It was at 12.0 -12.1 resting when I began charging it at 6amp...Checked it after 30 mins...was up to 12.3-12.4...dropped to 2amp and waited another 30, and it was still 12.3-12.4. Brought it back up to 6amp and left it for another 15, and it was still at 12.4.

Maybe I wasn't leaving it on for as long as I needed and am not even sure the charger is powerful enough for an AGM (black BMW battery).

When running and driving, the alternator is charging the battery to 14.0 - 14.3. When I come back from a long drive and turn it off, the battery is only at 12.4v resting. And if I am going back and forth to the car, unlocking, grabbing something, locking, car staying in stand by mode a few times, the next morning it will be down to 12.1v prior to turning over. The battery is definitely on its last legs but at least it turns over well still.

Thanks for chiming in with advice!

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by revengeismine

The charger I have isn't really the best. Only 2amp and 6amp setting. I need to buy a Ctek 3300 or 4.3.

It was at 12.0 -12.1 resting when I began charging it at 6amp...Checked it after 30 mins...was up to 12.3-12.4...dropped to 2amp and waited another 30, and it was still 12.3-12.4. Brought it back up to 6amp and left it for another 15, and it was still at 12.4.

Maybe I wasn't leaving it on for as long as I needed and am not even sure the charger is powerful enough for an AGM (black BMW battery).

When running and driving, the alternator is charging the battery to 14.0 - 14.3. When I come back from a long drive and turn it off, the battery is only at 12.4v resting. And if I am going back and forth to the car, unlocking, grabbing something, locking, car staying in stand by mode a few times, the next morning it will be down to 12.1v prior to turning over. The battery is definitely on its last legs but at least it turns over well still.

Thanks for chiming in with advice!

Quick input on the charger: if Ctek Id go 5.0, popular/good price. Regarding timing, in theory a completely drained 90Ah battery would require (90/2=) 45 hours with a 2Amp charger, 90/6 = 15 hours in 6A mode. Hence half hour here and there doesnt do much. Also, no need to worry about using high current mode, the battery only "takes" what it needs and the current will flat out "automatically" towards the end.

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Quick input on the charger: if Ctek Id go 5.0, popular/good price. Regarding timing, in theory a completely drained 90Ah battery would require (90/2=) 45 hours with a 2Amp charger, 90/6 = 15 hours in 6A mode. Hence half hour here and there doesnt do much. Also, no need to worry about using high current mode, the battery only "takes" what it needs and the current will flat out "automatically" towards the end.

Sweet. the 5.0 looks like a good deal. Thanks!

Unfortunately for me, I do not have a garage and live in a condo complex so I can't keep it connected all the time. I do however have the ability to run an extension cable to the car and use the direct battery plug to hook up.

Would charging the battery once every weekend or every 2 weekends work to keep the battery up to snuff?

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by revengeismine

Sweet. the 5.0 looks like a good deal. Thanks!

Unfortunately for me, I do not have a garage and live in a condo complex so I can't keep it connected all the time. I do however have the ability to run an extension cable to the car and use the direct battery plug to hook up.

Would charging the battery once every weekend or every 2 weekends work to keep the battery up to snuff?

Im assuming you only drive the car now and then - cause if daily, no need to trickle charge - so charging once every few weeks will do the trick for a healthy battery.

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Im assuming you only drive the car now and then - cause if daily, no need to trickle charge - so charging once every few weeks will do the trick for a healthy battery.

It is my daily; though my commute isn't that long. 1.6 miles each way. I do try and extend my drive longer than that every day. 3.5 in the morning and 3.1 back home at night. My concern would be in the winter time with such short of a commute.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by revengeismine

It is my daily; though my commute isn't that long. 1.6 miles each way. I do try and extend my drive longer than that every day. 3.5 in the morning and 3.1 back home at night. My concern would be in the winter time with such short of a commute.

1.6 miles, sounds like time to clean up the bike man or buy a couple of nice walking shoes.... Yep, thats probably short to charge back what you need for initial drain incl start.

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

1.6 miles, sounds like time to clean up the bike man or buy a couple of nice walking shoes.... Yep, thats probably short to charge back what you need for initial drain incl start.

lol. Walking is just boring though. My 335i held up fine to the commute but maybe the M3 is another beast. The engine does get up to operating temp though during that drive (at least in the heat that we have here in NE) so that's a plus. I will say the M3 has been turning over and starting just fine since getting it; even with the 6 year old battery.

the Increased battery charge hasn't come back on since letting it sit overnight after having it disconnected and then charged a tiny bit. I will see how the new battery responds.

[BeaterM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

1.6 miles, sounds like time to clean up the bike man or buy a couple of nice walking shoes.... Yep, thats probably short to charge back what you need for initial drain incl start.

Well, got the battery in last night. Used Carly to recode and register. Not sure if it worked (will go to a bmw indy sometime this week to have it checked). Carly also showed that there was no other battery registration.

With the previous battery, it would be 12.0-12.1v in the morning while the new Odyssey was at 12.4v. That's a good start since I had the ignition on 2 for a little last night using Carly and using the back trunk light while mounting the battery. I also have read that BMW's voltage algorithm sets the voltage at 80% full so 12.4v seems right. Now, when turning it over, it was settling at 13.9 to 14.1v.

Does that seem right for AGM batteries like Odysseys? I wonder if my alternator is the 150A and not the 180A.

Also, starting yesterday evening (or at least that is when I noticed it) I am hearing a constant low elec hum coming from the passenger side glovebox area. Started about halfway through my drive both last night and this morning. It goes away when I turn the car off and the only time the frequency changes it when I use the Drivelogic switch or other switches.The DME is in that area I believe and it does have a fan that turns on at some point right? I checked the engine bay while running and I did not hear any humming noise or anything out of the ordinary.

Anyways, the car is still running lol and I took it for a 5.5 mile drive this morning so hope she feels better LOL Hopefully when I turn her over tonight, it will be at 12.4 or higher.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by revengeismine

Well, got the battery in last night. Used Carly to recode and register. Not sure if it worked (will go to a bmw indy sometime this week to have it checked). Carly also showed that there was no other battery registration.

With the previous battery, it would be 12.0-12.1v in the morning while the new Odyssey was at 12.4v. That's a good start since I had the ignition on 2 for a little last night using Carly and using the back trunk light while mounting the battery. I also have read that BMW's voltage algorithm sets the voltage at 80% full so 12.4v seems right. Now, when turning it over, it was settling at 13.9 to 14.1v.

Does that seem right for AGM batteries like Odysseys? I wonder if my alternator is the 150A and not the 180A.

Also, starting yesterday evening (or at least that is when I noticed it) I am hearing a constant low elec hum coming from the passenger side glovebox area. Started about halfway through my drive both last night and this morning. It goes away when I turn the car off and the only time the frequency changes it when I use the Drivelogic switch or other switches.The DME is in that area I believe and it does have a fan that turns on at some point right? I checked the engine bay while running and I did not hear any humming noise or anything out of the ordinary.

Anyways, the car is still running lol and I took it for a 5.5 mile drive this morning so hope she feels better LOL Hopefully when I turn her over tonight, it will be at 12.4 or higher.

And I assume the paddles are back to work, great! No idea what the right side humming could be, haven't heard that the DME have a built in fan.