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      11-13-2018, 01:03 PM   #23
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So alternator works no doubt. 14.4v right away? If so, indicates normally the battery is well charged (e.g. fairly low load on alt.). 11.9v prior start seem a tad low, believe it usually keeps up a couple of tens above 12v (soon as you open car electronics start to consume). If it wasnt a new battery Id guess bad enough to not accept charge. Cant imagine faulty EDC to drain that rapidly...bit of a mystery, sorry I cant help out more.

Ps. Did you register the new battery mate? Believe this only kinda reset the counter (current, time/age etc) so assumingly not the issue here, BUT should e done regardless in order to get appropriate charge. If different battery specs you also should "code" for that specific battery type.

Last edited by Helmsman; 11-13-2018 at 01:08 PM..
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      11-13-2018, 01:07 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
So alternator works no doubt. 14.4v right away? If so, indicates normally the battery is well charged (e.g. fairly low load on alt.). 11.9v prior start seem a tad low, believe it usually keeps up a couple of tens above 12v (soon as you open car electronics start to consume). If it wasnt a new battery Id guess bad enough to not accept charge. Cant imagine faulty EDC to drain that rapidly...bit of a mystery, sorry I camt help out more.
Yeah it worked straight away the second i turned the engine on then it dropped slightly when the lights came on but bounced back up almost instantly.

Does it look like there is a parasitic drain somewhere?

Unsure if this is of any relevance but the DVD for the nav was in the boot/trunk and not in the iDrive. When I bought the car these issues never arose then I put the DVD into the iDrive and then the issues started next time I drove the car. As I read somewhere some CCC units kept the DVD spinning.
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      11-13-2018, 01:09 PM   #25
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Was a bit slow but added some bits above.
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      11-13-2018, 01:13 PM   #26
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No the battery is yet to be registered to the car as I am waiting on the cable to arrive to do so should be here within the next few days. Could that be the cause?
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      11-13-2018, 01:19 PM   #27
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No the battery is yet to be registered to the car as I am waiting on the cable to arrive to do so should be here within the next few days. Could that be the cause?
Dont know mate but seems strange. Assuming the battery and alternator is hooked up properly Id assume Mr Ohm makes sure 14.4v generates current regardless (but again u want to register for proper charge cycle). A parasitic/smallish current would seem strange to drain that bad (cause u run/charged for quite some time right?). Something else going here...
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      11-13-2018, 01:21 PM   #28
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No the battery is yet to be registered to the car as I am waiting on the cable to arrive to do so should be here within the next few days. Could that be the cause?
Dont know mate but seems strange. Assuming the battery and alternator is hooked up properly Id assume Mr Ohm makes sure 14.4v generates current regardless (but again u want to register for proper charge cycle). A parasitic/smallish current would seem strange to drain that bad (cause u run/charged for quite some time right?). Something else going here...
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No the battery is yet to be registered to the car as I am waiting on the cable to arrive to do so should be here within the next few days. Could that be the cause?
Dont know mate but seems strange. Assuming the battery and alternator is hooked up properly Id assume Mr Ohm makes sure 14.4v generates current regardless (but again u want to register for proper charge cycle). A parasitic/smallish current would seem strange to drain that bad (cause u run/charged for quite some time right?). Something else going here...
Yeah gave the car a 50 mile run and then the clock resets immediately after shutdown. Its so strange. I an hoping I am able to get to the bottom of it by reading the codes once I get INPA running. Could the IBS be faulty?
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      11-13-2018, 03:22 PM   #29
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Yeah gave the car a 50 mile run and then the clock resets immediately after shutdown. Its so strange. I an hoping I am able to get to the bottom of it by reading the codes once I get INPA running. Could the IBS be faulty?
Guessing here, the IBS is a controller of some sort that monitor the current going in/out of the battery (assumingly a shunt to measure over). Measuring current while keeping track of time generates Ah data hence give a feel for battery usage. Im sure you can google around to confirm. Get a voltage meter ($20 buck will do, good to have) and measure on the battery poles. That way you'll know for sure if proper voltage get there.

Ps. Time running the engine counts, rather than mileage, just to be sure.
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      11-13-2018, 03:40 PM   #30
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Yeah gave the car a 50 mile run and then the clock resets immediately after shutdown. Its so strange. I an hoping I am able to get to the bottom of it by reading the codes once I get INPA running. Could the IBS be faulty?
Guessing here, the IBS is a controller of some sort that monitor the current going in/out of the battery (assumingly a shunt to measure over). Measuring current while keeping track of time generates Ah data hence give a feel for battery usage. Im sure you can google around to confirm. Get a voltage meter ($20 buck will do, good to have) and measure on the battery poles. That way you'll know for sure if proper voltage get there.

Ps. Time running the engine counts, rather than mileage, just to be sure.
Thanks I will get a voltmeter to the poles of the battery to see what they read.

Apologies you are right I should have said in time rather than miles travelled. I would say on my journey home the engine was running for 90 minutes.
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      11-13-2018, 04:37 PM   #31
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Will do thanks everyone for all the help

Hopefully my OBD cable arrives tomorrow and can get the battery registered. Typical the thing you need the most gets delayed in the post.
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      11-13-2018, 11:51 PM   #32
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Don't rule out the alternator yet. I just went through a very similar situation, seemed like textbook alternator failing. Actually killed my battery (which was already old). Replaced battery with another AGM, very similar Ah and CCA rating, so no need for coding, but I did register it with Toolset32. After a few days, still had the same issue of low voltage symptoms. But, the alternator kept testing fine... like for almost 2 weeks, every time it was tested. Finally, it failed a test. I just replaced the alternator over the weekend and my issue seems to be fixed (fingers crossed lol). If my issue comes back, I will update my findings. The whole time I was trying to figure out what was going on though, I was hoping for the alternator as that was one of the easier fixes of what was on my list of possible causes. Good luck! Hope you get it figured out soon
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      11-14-2018, 12:41 PM   #33
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Quote:
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Will do thanks everyone for all the help

Hopefully my OBD cable arrives tomorrow and can get the battery registered. Typical the thing you need the most gets delayed in the post.
Also, if your problem isn't solved by registering and you pull codes, look out for 278D which is an alternator code. That kept popping up for me while I was troubleshooting, so even though my alt kept testing fine, it was hard to rule it out because of that code I kept getting. But, I was told by a friend who works for BMW Manufacturing (who has access to the database of all fault codes from when they were created internally) that 278D could also be triggered by a faulty connection somewhere along the charging system (which makes sense). In my case, it simply was telling me the alt was the issue, it was just hard to understand when it tested 100% fine, repeatedly, for weeks.

Fingers crossed registering the battery does the trick though
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      11-14-2018, 02:46 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisymarr View Post
Will do thanks everyone for all the help

Hopefully my OBD cable arrives tomorrow and can get the battery registered. Typical the thing you need the most gets delayed in the post.
Also, if your problem isn't solved by registering and you pull codes, look out for 278D which is an alternator code. That kept popping up for me while I was troubleshooting, so even though my alt kept testing fine, it was hard to rule it out because of that code I kept getting. But, I was told by a friend who works for BMW Manufacturing (who has access to the database of all fault codes from when they were created internally) that 278D could also be triggered by a faulty connection somewhere along the charging system (which makes sense). In my case, it simply was telling me the alt was the issue, it was just hard to understand when it tested 100% fine, repeatedly, for weeks.

Fingers crossed registering the battery does the trick though
Thanks

Still waiting on the cable every day I come home hoping the post/mail man has delivered it.
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      11-15-2018, 08:04 PM   #35
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You need to see if the start button light stays on . . . forever. If it does then this could very well be an EDC problem. I just replaced my EDC a few weeks ago and I had all the symptoms you're reporting. I even bought an alternator which remains in the corner, over there, because it wasn't an alternator issue.

I did a write up on replacing the EDC in an e93 M3, it's on here.

The first battery was way overdue to be dead anyway. Sure this could be an alternator, but try locking up the car and then just stand there and watch the start light. Mine used to stay on, even when I left for a few hours and came back without the fob (just in case the car detected the fob and woke up). After I replaced the EDC the button turned off in under 30 seconds, which, I guess, is how it's 'supposed' to be in my car.

I ruled out parasitic drain before I thought to look at my start button. I ruled it out by bringing the car to a mechanic, because I didn't feel like tracking that down myself with the tiny radio-shack multimeter that I own. He hooked up the car and monitored it while it went to sleep for a few hours, etc, then called me to tell me that the software updates he put in must have solved the problem. I go to the garage, pay, pick up the fob, go outside to get in the car, first problem: no comfort access. That was always the first thing the car killed off in an effort to save the battery. I unlock the door and start the car - increased battery discharge. The mechanic was puzzled!

Last edited by RedCardinal; 11-15-2018 at 08:14 PM..
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      11-16-2018, 03:54 AM   #36
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You need to see if the start button light stays on . . . forever. If it does then this could very well be an EDC problem. I just replaced my EDC a few weeks ago and I had all the symptoms you're reporting. I even bought an alternator which remains in the corner, over there, because it wasn't an alternator issue.

I did a write up on replacing the EDC in an e93 M3, it's on here.

The first battery was way overdue to be dead anyway. Sure this could be an alternator, but try locking up the car and then just stand there and watch the start light. Mine used to stay on, even when I left for a few hours and came back without the fob (just in case the car detected the fob and woke up). After I replaced the EDC the button turned off in under 30 seconds, which, I guess, is how it's 'supposed' to be in my car.

I ruled out parasitic drain before I thought to look at my start button. I ruled it out by bringing the car to a mechanic, because I didn't feel like tracking that down myself with the tiny radio-shack multimeter that I own. He hooked up the car and monitored it while it went to sleep for a few hours, etc, then called me to tell me that the software updates he put in must have solved the problem. I go to the garage, pay, pick up the fob, go outside to get in the car, first problem: no comfort access. That was always the first thing the car killed off in an effort to save the battery. I unlock the door and start the car - increased battery discharge. The mechanic was puzzled!
Thanks I tried the car there this morning, the starter button goes dark within ten minutes of locking it. Would that seem ok?
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      11-16-2018, 05:33 PM   #37
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my car was doing the same as yours, random clock resets, comfort access was flakey. Then I was getting random stalls when stopped. The final straw was my wife started on the side of be there H1 in Hawaii cause the car just straight died.
Took to the shop. they swore up and down was the battery. Battery swapped coded and within minutes of start up, it would trip a fault. they then thought it was the battery cable bulletin, changed that and same. Called another BMW Indy and they chatted and came to the conclusion it was the alternator. Changed that and zero issues. took four days in the shop to figure it out.
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      11-17-2018, 01:35 AM   #38
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my car was doing the same as yours, random clock resets, comfort access was flakey. Then I was getting random stalls when stopped. The final straw was my wife started on the side of be there H1 in Hawaii cause the car just straight died.
Took to the shop. they swore up and down was the battery. Battery swapped coded and within minutes of start up, it would trip a fault. they then thought it was the battery cable bulletin, changed that and same. Called another BMW Indy and they chatted and came to the conclusion it was the alternator. Changed that and zero issues. took four days in the shop to figure it out.
And what voltage did the shops measure over the battery poles, prior alternator being replaced?

As I would have thought a faulty alternator would be possible to detect in a blink, and it took 4 days, Im curious how the fault was shown/detected.

Thanks
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      11-17-2018, 08:58 AM   #39
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Thanks all for all the help its really appreciated.

So my cable arrived and got the car plugged in.

One thing I noticed was when I unlocked the car the angel eyes never lit up.

I registered the battery to the car and cleared all the error codes stored in the car.

Started the car up and was greeted with increased battery discharge warning and reset the time and date.

Took the car for a drive and came back.

Left it for an hour and unlocked it and the angel eyes now lit on unlock.

Started the car and the clock remained correct and no increased battery discharge warning.

However the ABS lights remained lit.

Re-scanned the codes and the car had two logged

5DF0 Hydraulic unit pump motor
5DF1 hydraulic unit pump motor connector faulty

So it looks as if the ABS pump is faulty. Looking online seems a very common issue and have found a company in the UK will refurbish the ABS pump with a lifetime warranty for £200 so hopefully that will bring the car back to good health. So removing the pump is tomorrows job.

Thanks again everybody
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      11-18-2018, 01:11 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Thanks I tried the car there this morning, the starter button goes dark within ten minutes of locking it. Would that seem ok?
hmm My start button now turns off in 12 seconds. I don't know what it did before the EDC failed. I don't know what normal is!

I also replaced the IBS, did nothing. For me a lot of codes got thrown due to the battery continually discharging.

You should know that the car will turn off certain functions as the battery level drops - perhaps angel eyes is one of those functions.

editing to add, it turns off in 10 seconds, really -- that's after I lock the car.

Last edited by RedCardinal; 11-24-2018 at 07:51 AM..
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