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      11-22-2023, 06:03 PM   #23387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
Is there any demand there? When I did the swap into my 1 series I had to solve the oil cooler issue since the OEM M3 one didn't fit in the non-1M front bumber.

I couldn't find anything to do anything other than OEM replacement so I had some adapters made up to adapt to AN so I could use an off-the-shelf cooler with AN fittings. They've been perfect for several years of track events.

I have a couple sets laying around still, and could have a few more made if anyone wants to try out something other than an OEM drop-in.
There is demand among us track rats. StripclubDJ has a plan for my car that involves something very similar to what you describe. However, we are waiting to implement until after the first post-build shakedown day which should be in the next 3 weeks. So, any additional thought you have would be appreciated.
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      11-23-2023, 02:08 PM   #23388
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What oil cooler was used that is better than do88?
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      11-23-2023, 05:00 PM   #23389
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Originally Posted by rhyary View Post
What oil cooler was used that is better than do88?
Doesnít matter. None of them provide any benefit over OEM.
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      11-24-2023, 03:08 AM   #23390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okusa View Post
Doesn’t matter. None of them provide any benefit over OEM.
back in my EVO days, the OEM rad was used for a few time attack builds. few rarely bothered to upgrade since it was just about that 1 lap.

not related to an oil cooler, but none the less an example of a part that sometimes doesn't need to be upgraded.
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      11-24-2023, 10:33 AM   #23391
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Yup decided to just do the do88 DCT and steering coolers and VTT reservoir. Will keep the water and oil coolers stock. I think you are probably better off just doing the Oil diverter valve. Which I would do but my car is still daily driven in the winter. Would need an inline thermostat.

I race in the spring and fall in New England, so really not a problem for me. Race bikes in the summer.
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      11-24-2023, 08:38 PM   #23392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_joe View Post
oil cooler would be the first change, then worry about water
why do you value oil over water? to protect against heat sheer? longevity? or does it seem to be a better job of cooling the engine?
can you elaborate a little bit?
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      11-24-2023, 09:39 PM   #23393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
why do you value oil over water? to protect against heat sheer? longevity? or does it seem to be a better job of cooling the engine?
can you elaborate a little bit?
Water temps have never been an issue for me but I used to see really high oil temps. I just feel like this car gets higher oil temps before water temps. Also oil is more vital. Water temps too high the car sends itself into limp mode and everything is fine. Oil temps too high and it could ended really bad.

For what itís worth, I have a do88 oil cooler, koyo rad (it was free), and a vented hood. I have zero cooling issues for water or oil even in 30+ min races in 90 degree weather.
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      11-25-2023, 12:03 AM   #23394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_joe View Post
Water temps have never been an issue for me but I used to see really high oil temps. I just feel like this car gets higher oil temps before water temps. Also oil is more vital. Water temps too high the car sends itself into limp mode and everything is fine. Oil temps too high and it could ended really bad.

For what it’s worth, I have a do88 oil cooler, koyo rad (it was free), and a vented hood. I have zero cooling issues for water or oil even in 30+ min races in 90 degree weather.
makes sense.
i remember someone on here had a dry sump on their e46 or some kind of setup that used less oil by volume. he reported he never again had any issues with temps, while stating his theory was less oil passes through the cooler more often, thus keeping it cooler.

i've pondered the solutions for cooling for these cars all the time. one of the first things seems to be a proper undertray to force air through the oil cooler.

i was thinking about exploring the mezzo tech microtube radiator as an oil cooler if it was appropriate for our oil thickness and volume. i'd think an oil cooler would be smaller and therefore more cost effective. i think if someone came up with a simply cooler and ducting solution as simple as replacing an oil cooler, they'd have the market for these cars.
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      11-25-2023, 03:36 PM   #23395
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So..what is the order of priority of coolers?

High --> Low
PS, Oil, Transmission, water?
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      11-25-2023, 04:31 PM   #23396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
So..what is the order of priority of coolers?

High --> Low
PS, Oil, Transmission, water?
Oil, transmission, radiator

No need to upgrade PS cooler, read it doesn't even help.

I have all do88 coolers except power steering which is still stock. Towel zip-tied around the vent hole is good enough.
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      11-25-2023, 04:31 PM   #23397
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Iíve experienced slower shifts at higher temps so Iíd love to upgrade my DCT Cooler. Iíd also like to upgrade either water or oil to keep engine temps down on track (very rarely I will creep up to a warning light). Never had an issue with PS.

Also- I have this knocking noise still. Havenít solved it. See video. Only hear it at parking lot speeds. Ideas? I was going to check away bar end links and strut tower braces next. Kinda lost. Slightly concerned.

https://youtube.com/shorts/LEVV4HBgrMY?feature=shared
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      11-25-2023, 04:57 PM   #23398
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Iíve had a loose strut top nut make clunking sounds and a worn strut top mount do the same.
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      11-25-2023, 05:26 PM   #23399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ximian View Post
Oil, transmission, radiator

No need to upgrade PS cooler, read it doesn't even help.

I have all do88 coolers except power steering which is still stock. Towel zip-tied around the vent hole is good enough.
this exactly.

if someone is seeing high temps from normal track conditions, DCT cooler isn't far from overheating as well.
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      11-27-2023, 09:15 AM   #23400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okusa View Post
There is demand among us track rats. StripclubDJ has a plan for my car that involves something very similar to what you describe. However, we are waiting to implement until after the first post-build shakedown day which should be in the next 3 weeks. So, any additional thought you have would be appreciated.
Let me know if you guys want a set of adapters. I have that black set sitting on my desk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhyary View Post
What oil cooler was used that is better than do88?
I used a generic [large] CSF core and made a custom bracket that holds it and seals most of the flow from the lower opening so it goes through the oil cooler. I only have oil temp issues if it's really hot and I'm trying really hard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
So..what is the order of priority of coolers?

High --> Low
PS, Oil, Transmission, water?
For what it's worth, I did a bunch of tinkering to get oil temps stable and only two things made a measurable difference: ducting/internal aero and a larger water radiator. What worked best for my oil cooler aero routing though is basically the same as the stock M3.

Power Steering cooler didn't seem to do much of anything for me. The reservoir still burps out some fluid and the power steering still works.

My vote would be Water, Oil, Trans, PS
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      12-02-2023, 01:57 PM   #23401
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Do I need to disconnect the sway bar endlink before adjusting preload on my Ohlins coilovers?

I am in the process of checking torque on every component to figure out the clunk and when I removed the endlink the whole assemble lowered a little, creating some positive lash/slop on the spring. Height is adjusted independent of preload on these so I could adjust this without screwing up my alignment. Just wondering if that needs to be done.
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      12-02-2023, 02:37 PM   #23402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okusa View Post
Doesnít matter. None of them provide any benefit over OEM.
I live in Phoenix. Car was regularly over 275í on track. I Ďupgradedí to CSF rad and oil cooler and car has not gone above 260 since.

Itís a manual.

How maybe thatís new vs 70k oem, but the change made a big difference on my car.
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      12-02-2023, 10:24 PM   #23403
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More race car
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      12-02-2023, 10:33 PM   #23404
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      12-03-2023, 01:55 AM   #23405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StripclubDJ View Post
More race car
LOL not to sound stalker ish, but i almost moved into that area..
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      12-03-2023, 09:59 AM   #23406
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LOL not to sound stalker ish, but i almost moved into that area..
Bro who are you lol
Post a picture of your car or something
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      12-03-2023, 09:09 PM   #23407
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Bro who are you lol
Post a picture of your car or something
i only know because i was going to take over my friends spot and he mentioned you and now i remember your name lol
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      12-03-2023, 09:50 PM   #23408
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Heading back to the track after a 15 yr hiatus. Was addicted then for 3 straight years in Florida but have only autox’d since then. I was fast then but younger and more confident, or maybe naive about potential consequences.
My first event back is at Big Willow on 12/17 and I’m excited/nervous.

Car is fairly stock other than front bar and MCS singles on stock zcp springs. Have old set of Yoks A052,s, 265/35 all around.

Car is fully up to date on service, including Castrol’s srf brake fluid.

Only concerns are
- 4 yr old studs but only dailyed and autox the car, so they should be fine (let me know if wrong).
- Brake pads, I’m on pfc street pads and will look to buy some track pads from the forum for sale section or new. Any suggestions for a low disk wear pad that can handle the stock weight of the car w/o braking (pun) the bank?

Otherwise, the car is at 165k miles and has all the usual suspects replaced and probably more. Runs great and has been resigned to bi-weekly long drives after getting a very slow hybrid (side effect, makes me love the M3 that much more when I do drive it).

Other than pads, let me know if I’m forgetting something else.
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