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      06-06-2021, 04:15 AM   #23
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Managed to catch a video of typical circumstances when I get the DCT error. I.e. normal driving (in fact the harder I drive the less error). 2 min video show the code come, to go away after a little driving, to come again. Verrry annoying, dealer haven't be able to do anything about it.


Last edited by Helmsman; 06-06-2021 at 08:34 AM..
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      07-22-2021, 08:50 AM   #24
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I'm getting the same thing on my 2010 E92 with about 80k miles. I typically get the warning within 10-15 minutes of easy driving.
Just got this car about 2 months ago and I really dont have any history on it but I did notice that the DCT oil pan appeared wet. I never had any drips in the garage but I replaced the pan with the 'Big Momma' pan from Seems Legit. Ended up draining about 4 quarts but filled with nearly 7 quarts. Not sure if the fluid was ever low.



The 5A61 Selector rod 1/3 fault appeared when I ran the 'DKG Oil Balancing' procedure from my scanner. I ran this procedure twice and got the fault each time. Cleared this code and it hasnt returned under normal driving but the 5A53 overheating phase red code has returned.



So I took a deeper dive into my scanner and found that I can see DKG temps. I see a total of 3 temperatures from the DCT. I'm making a few assumptions here but I believe temperature sensors 1 and 2 are the actual clutches and 'Oil temperature clutch' must be the fluid in the pan.



What I find odd about my readings is that the 'oil temperature clutch' reading showed 142 C (~287 F) when the car wasnt even running. When this picture was taken, the car had been sitting in the garage for 12+ hours. Also, none of the other temperatures from the DCT are anywhere near this high...they're all much closer to the ambient temp of the garage. Also also, I watched this temp drop from 142 down to 53 within about 45 seconds. The temp would jump up or down about 4 degrees with every refresh of the scanner. This is all while the engine wasnt even running (key in ignition pressed engine start button once)



So I started the engine and let it idle for about 20 minutes. No codes came up but the 'oil temp clutch' reading maxed out around 81 C which I believe is about right. Went for a quick drive and the overheat code popped up right as I was pulling back into the driveway. I had the car in park while I rearranged some cars in the driveway. Within a few seconds of putting the car back in drive, the overheat message popped up. I had the scanner running but the message went away before I could grab it. The scanner allows me to see a 'freeze frame' of the code and this is what I saw...



Looks like 'Model temperature K1' (clutch pack 1?) hit 91 C which I believe is about the temp where the DCT thermostat opens to allow coolant to run to the radiator in the passenger side front. Seems high considering I only drove for about 10 minutes and never got about 45mph.

I dont know what 'injector sensor, raw value' is. Any ideas?

I'm leaning towards an issue with the oil temp sensor / possibly an exposed wire causing a short or clutches needing replaced (never noticed any slipping). I should be getting a pair of jack stands that work with the BMW jack pads today so I'll get under the car this weekend and see what I can see of the wiring. Otherwise, may pull the transmission and replace that sensor but thats a really big job for me since I've never pulled a transmission before.

One last thing...the scanner lets me see the adaptation and pressure values for each clutch. I have no idea what these values would typically be. Maybe somebody could advise. If the scanner lets me run the clutch adaptation, I may try that before pulling the transmission.


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      07-22-2021, 10:15 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daitheflu20 View Post
I'm getting the same thing on my 2010 E92 with about 80k miles. I typically get the warning within 10-15 minutes of easy driving.
Just got this car about 2 months ago and I really dont have any history on it but I did notice that the DCT oil pan appeared wet. I never had any drips in the garage but I replaced the pan with the 'Big Momma' pan from Seems Legit. Ended up draining about 4 quarts but filled with nearly 7 quarts. Not sure if the fluid was ever low.



The 5A61 Selector rod 1/3 fault appeared when I ran the 'DKG Oil Balancing' procedure from my scanner. I ran this procedure twice and got the fault each time. Cleared this code and it hasnt returned under normal driving but the 5A53 overheating phase red code has returned.



So I took a deeper dive into my scanner and found that I can see DKG temps. I see a total of 3 temperatures from the DCT. I'm making a few assumptions here but I believe temperature sensors 1 and 2 are the actual clutches and 'Oil temperature clutch' must be the fluid in the pan.



What I find odd about my readings is that the 'oil temperature clutch' reading showed 142 C (~287 F) when the car wasnt even running. When this picture was taken, the car had been sitting in the garage for 12+ hours. Also, none of the other temperatures from the DCT are anywhere near this high...they're all much closer to the ambient temp of the garage. Also also, I watched this temp drop from 142 down to 53 within about 45 seconds. The temp would jump up or down about 4 degrees with every refresh of the scanner. This is all while the engine wasnt even running (key in ignition pressed engine start button once)



So I started the engine and let it idle for about 20 minutes. No codes came up but the 'oil temp clutch' reading maxed out around 81 C which I believe is about right. Went for a quick drive and the overheat code popped up right as I was pulling back into the driveway. I had the car in park while I rearranged some cars in the driveway. Within a few seconds of putting the car back in drive, the overheat message popped up. I had the scanner running but the message went away before I could grab it. The scanner allows me to see a 'freeze frame' of the code and this is what I saw...



Looks like 'Model temperature K1' (clutch pack 1?) hit 91 C which I believe is about the temp where the DCT thermostat opens to allow coolant to run to the radiator in the passenger side front. Seems high considering I only drove for about 10 minutes and never got about 45mph.

I dont know what 'injector sensor, raw value' is. Any ideas?

I'm leaning towards an issue with the oil temp sensor / possibly an exposed wire causing a short or clutches needing replaced (never noticed any slipping). I should be getting a pair of jack stands that work with the BMW jack pads today so I'll get under the car this weekend and see what I can see of the wiring. Otherwise, may pull the transmission and replace that sensor but thats a really big job for me since I've never pulled a transmission before.

One last thing...the scanner lets me see the adaptation and pressure values for each clutch. I have no idea what these values would typically be. Maybe somebody could advise. If the scanner lets me run the clutch adaptation, I may try that before pulling the transmission.


Thanks for the input. Interesting to see the temp sensors strange behaviour, seems to be faulty. Makes me wonder if my dealer actually even have measured oil temp, or if they are even able to as they came to no conclusions other than handing me a bill for nothing...

Unfortunately I can't comment on any of the clutch values, lets see if some with knowledge chime in.

Last edited by Helmsman; 07-22-2021 at 10:26 AM..
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      08-18-2021, 02:27 PM   #26
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I've had both DCT warnings in the summer, winter, driving slow, driving fast, etc. I've checked the cooler temp with a temp gun during the warning and only read around 130F.

In another thread people have stated having electrical fault issues related to the engine ground strap. Mine didn't look bad but I replaced it anyway and I have not had any DCT faults since. That was about a month ago and it has been super hot here in Oklahoma.

I'll update this post if I get anymore faults. For $50 and about 30 minutes of work I really hope it was my issue.
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      08-18-2021, 04:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPSurratt2005 View Post
I've had both DCT warnings in the summer, winter, driving slow, driving fast, etc. I've checked the cooler temp with a temp gun during the warning and only read around 130F.

In another thread people have stated having electrical fault issues related to the engine ground strap. Mine didn't look bad but I replaced it anyway and I have not had any DCT faults since. That was about a month ago and it has been super hot here in Oklahoma.

I'll update this post if I get anymore faults. For $50 and about 30 minutes of work I really hope it was my issue.
Good input, thanks mate.
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      08-19-2021, 07:59 AM   #28
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I had this issue years ago. After much diagnosis and dealer investigation about replacing the mechatronics, dropping the transmission, etc. (car was under BMW extended warranty), it turned out to be the DTC temp sensor, which quite frustratingly wasn't covered by the warranty. Turned out to be a $3K fix even though only the temp sensor was the issue. In this case, having the warranty was negative value as I was stuck with the dealer (on the hopes it was a mechatronics issue and would have been covered by the warranty). An indy would have surely been much less expensive.
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      08-21-2021, 07:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daitheflu20 View Post
I'm getting the same thing on my 2010 E92 with about 80k miles. I typically get the warning within 10-15 minutes of easy driving. ......

I'm leaning towards an issue with the oil temp sensor / possibly an exposed wire causing a short or clutches needing replaced (never noticed any slipping). I should be getting a pair of jack stands that work with the BMW jack pads today so I'll get under the car this weekend and see what I can see of the wiring. Otherwise, may pull the transmission and replace that sensor but thats a really big job for me since I've never pulled a transmission before.
Your issues are almost certainly the result of a worn out clutch.

As the clutches wear out and overheat, the discs warp and never fully release anymore. That causes excess friction, heat, and the fluid overheats even when sitting in neutral or easy driving.

Clutch failure is also likely because shift shaft faults are present. When one or both of the clutch sets are warped and won't disengage fully, the shift fork shaft won't reach its end points within its specified parameters so it sets those faults. Eventually the clutches will overheat to the extent they will lock up altogether and will stall the engine.

A faulty sensor alone won't also have shift shaft faults present. Either way you'll need to R&R the transmission but you'll need to remove and disassemble the clutch- that task takes special tools. Replacing the combination (rpm/temp) sensor would also be wise at the same time.
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      10-18-2021, 05:15 PM   #30
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overheating

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLuRRYM3 View Post
I had the same thing happen to me. Last week I did the fluid, filter, new pan, etc. Also did the DCT software update and adaptation, which removed my Dinan tune. I was reading on bimmerworld that sometimes the DCT thermostat is the culprit. Since it was a cheap part around $100, decided might as well change that out too since it's fairly easy to swap out.

So far so good. Before I couldn't do the normal weekly three grocery store run without getting an overheat warning.

I have a thread where I'm providing updates:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1817337
Hey, I'm going through the same issues, all though be in on my e82 135i MHD Stage 2. I got the car like this so it may need an update from the dealer. Either way, Overheating codes would pop up if I drive in any modes at random moments, sometimes in 30 mins and sometimes I can drive for 3 hours with no issues. Either way, I feel like it's the temp sensor, may I ask how much did it cost in terms of labor? Ive seen some other forums that wheel speed sensors might be the culprit as well so Ill try to monitor those as well.
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      10-20-2021, 11:39 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynebanga View Post
Hey, I'm going through the same issues, all though be in on my e82 135i MHD Stage 2. I got the car like this so it may need an update from the dealer. Either way, Overheating codes would pop up if I drive in any modes at random moments, sometimes in 30 mins and sometimes I can drive for 3 hours with no issues. Either way, I feel like it's the temp sensor, may I ask how much did it cost in terms of labor? Ive seen some other forums that wheel speed sensors might be the culprit as well so Ill try to monitor those as well.
A wheel speed sensor won't cause these issues. It's possible it's the combination rpm/temp sensor but typically there are plausibility faults associated with them when they're the culprit. External thermostat is a very possible culprit and would be the lowest cost repair attempt in combination with making sure fluid balance is performed.

The combination temp/rpm sensor is located in the clutch housing of the transmission. It required transmission R&R to replace- same labor as replacing the clutch itself. We always check the clutches if we pull the transmission. If the clutches are fine then we'd replace the combo sensor and retest.
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      10-23-2021, 08:14 AM   #32
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I had a similar issue with this. yellow cog warning comes up and limp mode after 15 mins of driving pretty much everytime stuck in traffic.

Got the trans fluid changed first and still have problem after 3 days. Then did a battery changed and it stopped for first couple days then the problem popped again and had to change the alternator. Problem didn't pop up as often after alternator change and it took around 2 weeks for it to disappear. Hope the problem won't appear again.

At first I thought cooler weather driving will be better but it made no difference to to problem. I'm guessing the alternator and battery is making all the sensors acting up

Last edited by ckang008; 10-23-2021 at 08:22 AM..
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      10-23-2021, 09:28 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckang008 View Post
I had a similar issue with this. yellow cog warning comes up and limp mode after 15 mins of driving pretty much everytime stuck in traffic.

Got the trans fluid changed first and still have problem after 3 days. Then did a battery changed and it stopped for first couple days then the problem popped again and had to change the alternator. Problem didn't pop up as often after alternator change and it took around 2 weeks for it to disappear. Hope the problem won't appear again.

At first I thought cooler weather driving will be better but it made no difference to to problem. I'm guessing the alternator and battery is making all the sensors acting up
I had this on and off for a good couple of years. It has turned worse - so has the battery - so this is good input and another reason for me to get a new battery.

Thanks
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      10-23-2021, 01:09 PM   #34
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who would have thought a battery or alternator will trigger the tranny temp warning
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      11-10-2021, 04:51 PM   #35
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Wouldn't have thought a battery and alternator change would do anything but ill give it a try!
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      12-19-2023, 11:33 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daitheflu20 View Post
I'm getting the same thing on my 2010 E92 with about 80k miles. I typically get the warning within 10-15 minutes of easy driving.
Just got this car about 2 months ago and I really dont have any history on it but I did notice that the DCT oil pan appeared wet. I never had any drips in the garage but I replaced the pan with the 'Big Momma' pan from Seems Legit. Ended up draining about 4 quarts but filled with nearly 7 quarts. Not sure if the fluid was ever low.

The 5A61 Selector rod 1/3 fault appeared when I ran the 'DKG Oil Balancing' procedure from my scanner. I ran this procedure twice and got the fault each time. Cleared this code and it hasnt returned under normal driving but the 5A53 overheating phase red code has returned.

So I took a deeper dive into my scanner and found that I can see DKG temps. I see a total of 3 temperatures from the DCT. I'm making a few assumptions here but I believe temperature sensors 1 and 2 are the actual clutches and 'Oil temperature clutch' must be the fluid in the pan.

What I find odd about my readings is that the 'oil temperature clutch' reading showed 142 C (~287 F) when the car wasnt even running. When this picture was taken, the car had been sitting in the garage for 12+ hours. Also, none of the other temperatures from the DCT are anywhere near this high...they're all much closer to the ambient temp of the garage. Also also, I watched this temp drop from 142 down to 53 within about 45 seconds. The temp would jump up or down about 4 degrees with every refresh of the scanner. This is all while the engine wasnt even running (key in ignition pressed engine start button once)

So I started the engine and let it idle for about 20 minutes. No codes came up but the 'oil temp clutch' reading maxed out around 81 C which I believe is about right. Went for a quick drive and the overheat code popped up right as I was pulling back into the driveway. I had the car in park while I rearranged some cars in the driveway. Within a few seconds of putting the car back in drive, the overheat message popped up. I had the scanner running but the message went away before I could grab it. The scanner allows me to see a 'freeze frame' of the code and this is what I saw...

Looks like 'Model temperature K1' (clutch pack 1?) hit 91 C which I believe is about the temp where the DCT thermostat opens to allow coolant to run to the radiator in the passenger side front. Seems high considering I only drove for about 10 minutes and never got about 45mph.

I dont know what 'injector sensor, raw value' is. Any ideas?

I'm leaning towards an issue with the oil temp sensor / possibly an exposed wire causing a short or clutches needing replaced (never noticed any slipping). I should be getting a pair of jack stands that work with the BMW jack pads today so I'll get under the car this weekend and see what I can see of the wiring. Otherwise, may pull the transmission and replace that sensor but thats a really big job for me since I've never pulled a transmission before.

One last thing...the scanner lets me see the adaptation and pressure values for each clutch. I have no idea what these values would typically be. Maybe somebody could advise. If the scanner lets me run the clutch adaptation, I may try that before pulling the transmission.
Long time since mate. If still around, curious where this went on your side?
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      12-19-2023, 12:38 PM   #37
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Long time since mate. If still around, curious where this went on your side?
Well I bought a used DCT transmission, clutch removal tool, set of quick jacks, new rpm/temp sensor, replaced the ODBC port since it was a bit sketchy and got a whole ISTA+ setup in the garage. The only thing I'm missing is the confidence to drop the transmission.

I still get the warning if I'm stuck in traffic in warm weather.
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      12-19-2023, 05:24 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daitheflu20 View Post
Well I bought a used DCT transmission, clutch removal tool, set of quick jacks, new rpm/temp sensor, replaced the ODBC port since it was a bit sketchy and got a whole ISTA+ setup in the garage. The only thing I'm missing is the confidence to drop the transmission.

I still get the warning if I'm stuck in traffic in warm weather.
Great to see you're still around (although sorry you still have the DCT bummer...).
As you have heat warning at low speed, did you check the aux coolant pump is working okay?

Over heated issue back and forth since years now. Finally able to read DCT temps (Bimmergeek) hence started a new round of diagnostic. Warning came up recently showing close to 150C - fair enough - while this time oil/air cooler was....cool. Changed the DCT Tstat earlier (together with fluid and filter). Plan to top up fluid once again.

Did you ever try reset adaptation, any results?
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