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      04-28-2019, 11:16 PM   #1
Nazty Naze One!
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DINAN sway bar fix

I've had the Dinan sway bar on for over two years and I've gone through 2 sets of sway bar links in order to fix a horrible clunking sound whenever going over a bump. I think I've finally found a solution!!

I switched over to Hotchkis sway bar links, after buying bimmerworlds links and only to have them clunk again, these are thicker and come with a bushing, whereas bimmerworlds comes with a metal to metal joint. the other good thing about the hotchkis' links is that they come with better hardware whereas the other aftermarket stuff doesn't. the most import part, and why it works, is that the stud that goes through the sway bar and shock absorber adapters is thicker and fits better.


if you're lowered then you'll need SHORTER links; hence the clunking sound you get because of longer arm links.

So, the solution is to get a set of Hotchkis sway bar links and then get bimmerworlds adapter to fit the shock absorber bracket. I hope this helps anyone lookign to buy or has bought dinan sway bars.
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      05-24-2019, 04:35 PM   #2
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I went with turners adjustable links to get rid of the clunk.
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      05-24-2019, 08:04 PM   #3
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I recently installed an Eibach 29mm swaybar on my 08 M3 lowered on H&R springs and was getting clunking and a rough ride with the stock links. I just installed HPA adjustable links and dialed out preload and the ride is very supple now. I run the Eibach in full stiff — it might be like the Dinan’s 2nd or 3rd stiffest setting.

Not sure how they will hold up long term. If they aren’t adjusted right, you will beat them to death.
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      05-24-2019, 08:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monterey View Post
I went with turners adjustable links to get rid of the clunk.
I looked at turners but opted for hotchkis because of the quality. It seemed better built from the looks of it. Similar to Dinan's just shorter.
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      07-18-2019, 11:06 PM   #5
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I guess this clunk is normal, dang. Just put it on and liking it otherwise. Clunking is not like Dinan.

The Hotchkis links should fit a ZCP car/height? Still need the BW adapter for stock shocks?
Why wouldn’t OE links work on a car with stock struts/springs? There wasn’t any preload at this height.
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      07-19-2019, 12:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyatth View Post
I guess this clunk is normal, dang. Just put it on and liking it otherwise. Clunking is not like Dinan.

The Hotchkis links should fit a ZCP car/height? Still need the BW adapter for stock shocks?
Why wouldn’t OE links work on a car with stock struts/springs? There wasn’t any preload at this height.
Yep you'll need the adapters from bimmer world and the hotchkis links. Great combination and you'll be happy
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      07-19-2019, 05:28 AM   #7
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Are the Dinan links defective or do they lack the range to have the length adjusted correctly? Is this true only for lowered cars?
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      07-19-2019, 11:09 AM   #8
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Lowered cars have issues with length. We all have issues with clunks in the joints, it seems.
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      07-19-2019, 03:11 PM   #9
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If not set up right to start with you will get clunks. The clunking is beating the bearing link apart and it’s then too late to readjust since the damage has occurred. If they could not be set up right to begin with on a lowered car, then Dinan should have specified they were inappropriate for a lowered car or simply supplied links with a greater range of adjustment. And some “performance” links may be noisy from the start even if properly adjusted.

I am liking the HPA links so far on my E90 lowered with H&R springs and with an Eibach 29mm bar. Durability will be determined over time. It’s been only a few months so far. Bad clunk with the stock links, which obviously were not the right length.

Last edited by pbonsalb; 07-20-2019 at 06:19 AM..
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      07-19-2019, 03:44 PM   #10
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The noise is nowhere near as bad as allowing it to continue beacuse it means hard parts of your suspension are banging on eachother. 2 years? Holy hell that's a long time to drive a broken car

I've been running a Dinan bar on my car for like 50000 miles and ran the RDSport before then. The only noises I've ever had have been dry bushings on the RD sport causing some graunchiness, fixed with lube periodically. And then, much later, it snapped in half, which also made a noise, one time, POS.

The Dinan makes no noise, I checked the bushes recently and was surprised to find they looked perfect still after all this time. I use Bimmerworld links with mine but the Dinan links (cut down appropriately) are also fine. The ones it comes with are too long for anything but full soft IMO and even then it's marginal

EDIt: Oh wait, I lied. My Dinan bar did clunk a bit recently. One of the endlink jam nuts on the driver's side loosened up. I tightened it. Clunk gone, has stayed gone. Has happened a total of 1 time since I got the bar a number of years ago. Nothing touches anything else otherwise, no bangs bops bonks or bumps.
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      07-19-2019, 05:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
The noise is nowhere near as bad as allowing it to continue beacuse it means hard parts of your suspension are banging on eachother. 2 years? Holy hell that's a long time to drive a broken car

I've been running a Dinan bar on my car for like 50000 miles and ran the RDSport before then. The only noises I've ever had have been dry bushings on the RD sport causing some graunchiness, fixed with lube periodically. And then, much later, it snapped in half, which also made a noise, one time, POS.

The Dinan makes no noise, I checked the bushes recently and was surprised to find they looked perfect still after all this time. I use Bimmerworld links with mine but the Dinan links (cut down appropriately) are also fine. The ones it comes with are too long for anything but full soft IMO and even then it's marginal

EDIt: Oh wait, I lied. My Dinan bar did clunk a bit recently. One of the endlink jam nuts on the driver's side loosened up. I tightened it. Clunk gone, has stayed gone. Has happened a total of 1 time since I got the bar a number of years ago. Nothing touches anything else otherwise, no bangs bops bonks or bumps.
Yea that banging is terrible and sometimes it would make me so frustrated with my car overall that I disliked driving it.

I think the best method when lowering is to get shorter links. I've searched and searched many sites and people claimed young news longer ones but that wasn't the case. The load instructions are needed but not necessary when dealing with the clunk.

From my findings I noticed that the holes on the Dinan's sway bar were too large in diameter for other links thereby causing the clunk. I at first wrapped the link rod with Teflon and this helped but only temporarily. I then went with hotchkiss and they worked well.
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      07-20-2019, 01:55 AM   #12
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Are the hole sizes the reason the stock links don’t work with the bar? I haven’t given them a try so just trying to understand before I order parts or dig in again. Otherwise I’m not sure why I couldn’t fit OE endlinks to the bar. And not sure what I’d be giving up with stock links since I’m not corner balancing my stock shocks/springs. Just not sure what makes the Dinan bar unique to come with/need aftermarket end links when used with stock/ZCP shocks. Other bars don’t, unless lowered (beyond ZCP), from what I’ve read.
I just want a durable and silent end link that fits my ZCP car + Dinan bar.

Last edited by wyatth; 07-20-2019 at 02:28 AM..
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      07-20-2019, 06:39 AM   #13
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If the Dinan bar puts an adjustment hole pretty much exactly the same distance from the strut hole as stock on a stock ride height car, you will be fine with stock links as long as you use that particular adjustment hole. I am guessing there is a reason Dinan provided adjustable links rather than making them optional.

The link stud would ideally fit the swaybar hole size perfectly but the nut should secure it. It would be odd for Dinan to specify a bigger swaybar hole than the factory strut hole such that you needed a link with 2 different stud sizes.
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      07-20-2019, 10:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
If the Dinan bar puts an adjustment hole pretty much exactly the same distance from the strut hole as stock on a stock ride height car, you will be fine with stock links as long as you use that particular adjustment hole. I am guessing there is a reason Dinan provided adjustable links rather than making them optional.

The link stud would ideally fit the swaybar hole size perfectly but the nut should secure it. It would be odd for Dinan to specify a bigger swaybar hole than the factory strut hole such that you needed a link with 2 different stud sizes.
The bar is curved differently plus, when you ad weight you need to be cautious of not hitting any other parts with the bar. That's why you need a shorter link too. It's the same if you want to adjust stiffness.
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      07-26-2019, 01:25 PM   #15
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Thanks, guys. I did lower the bar a little bit yesterday since it looked to be barely rubbing on the tie rod. It's about as low as it can go now, and looks to comfortably clear everything, but it didn't do much for the clunk. Bummed, this is not like Dinan and seems to be inherent in my brand new links, even though others are running around silently.
Will try out other links at some point.
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      07-26-2019, 03:04 PM   #16
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I have the dinan swaybar and their coilover conversion kit with camber plates - haven't had any clunking noises. maybe because my swaybar is on the softest setting?
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      07-29-2019, 04:19 PM   #17
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Does anybody have a lube they would recommend for the ball joints? I don't think there's other contact making the clunk, so I suspect its the links themselves. Figured I'll start with a lube before replacing them. Wurth HHS-K is a favorite but I am not sure in this application, as it might attract dust/dirt. Maybe just white lithium?
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      07-29-2019, 07:36 PM   #18
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Are you 1000% sure the links are tight everywhere they need to be? Lack of lube won’t cause a clunk and a good rod end doesn’t need it anyway

Do you have the heim joints indexed the right direction so they’re relaxed at static ride height and not bound up or near the end of their pivot range with the wheel straight? They move quite a bit with the strut so check the whole range of motion of the steering
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      07-29-2019, 08:06 PM   #19
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Will triple check. Thanks for the specific notes.
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      07-29-2019, 11:46 PM   #20
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Be sure to set the car on the floor then pass the link through the hole. Afterwards tighten the nut to the specified torque.
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      12-19-2020, 07:49 PM   #21
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Resurrecting this old thread since some time has passed and some new opinions may recommend or confirm a particular endlink. Is there a consensus for which endlink to use with the Dinan bar on stock Suspension? My current dinan endlinks are clunking and the rubber boot is starting to come apart on one of them.

Did the hotchkis endlink work, or is the bimmerworld version best or something else?

Thank you
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      12-19-2020, 08:29 PM   #22
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I had to cut mine down about 3/4" each end of each endlink to make them work for Ohlins RT struts. I have no clunking.
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