Things to replace "while you're in there"

[VrooM3]

The other day i was driving along and as i was following traffic something appearing like a brown paper bag suddenly revealed itself from under the car in front that drove over it and as i drove over the object, it ended up being a rock some 10" across and got very intimate with the belly pan and then the oil pan. it literally sheered the front of the oil pan clean into two.

Now it's at my mechanic and we're in the process of assessing the damage. If the engine didn't experience oil starvation nor had any debris introduced in the oil (i shut it off within seconds) then i'll be replacing the rod bearings since the pan and possibly the oil pump have to be replaced.

What i was curious about is what else the community would suggest to replace (main front seal, sensors etc), and if any of the board members with experience building/re-building the s65 would recommend main bearing replacement as well, as the car has about 175k km on it. My mechanic will inspect the mains for damage as well, so another "while you're in there" scenario, and he suggests we do them as well since they have to be inspected for oil starvation damage.

[jp1984]

Motor mounts for sure, wiser members will offer better advice.

Go with BE Bearings and ARP Bolts.

[VrooM3]

Originally Posted by jp1984

Motor mounts for sure, wiser members will offer better advice.

Go with BE Bearings and ARP Bolts.

Thanks for the reply, i have the Bimmerworld engine mounts on my shopping list

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...Mount-Set.html

and will be going with BE rod bearings and their ARP hardware as you suggested. I'm curious about the mains, and if i should go with King or WPC treated BMW bearings.

https://store.langracing.com/product...5592d48a&_ss=r

https://store.langracing.com/product...eb373dec&_ss=r

[Theodore]

If you choose to replace the main bearings, note the fine print on the link you listed for the main bearings: "On this engine we will send you a full set of the highest clearance bearings." It is unlikely all of the OEM main bearings in your engine were the same size from the factory.

[VrooM3]

Originally Posted by Theodore

If you choose to replace the main bearings, note the fine print on the link you listed for the main bearings: "On this engine we will send you a full set of the highest clearance bearings." It is unlikely all of the OEM main bearings in your engine were the same size from the factory.

I noticed that as well, these are details i'll have to discuss with my mechanic and possibly the supplier. I hope some of the shop accounts here can chime in on what their bearing preferences are for mains, since i've heard from various sources that the mains also tend to have elevated wear from being on the tight side, but not as bad as the rod bearings.

[Redd]

While you're in there...

- Oil sensor
- Oil filter housing gasket
- Engine mounts

[Helmsman]

Rod bearings sure while you're in there, but main bearings seems like big job if its "only" the oil sump that was damaged?

[VrooM3]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Rod bearings sure while you're in there, but main bearings seems like big job if its "only" the oil sump that was damaged?

My thoughts exactly, but my mechanic (who is also an old friend) says that since the mains have to be checked for oil starvation and foreign particle damage, we might as well do the bearings while we're in there.

Though i turned the engine off within seconds, the damage to the sump was catastrophic (sheered the front off clear), so there is a chance of low/no oil pressure, though i don't remember a low oil pressure light or engine light coming on. The car also has about 110k miles on it, so i'm thinking i might as well do the mains if the labor is more or less covered in the inspection cost.

[Scrippy]

I went through this exact bullshit. Some raised up concrete from big trucks making groves deathstar shot my oil pan. I basically did the following….
1-Pan/Gasket
2-Oil sensor
3-RB's
4-motor mounts
5-Trans mounts
6-Alignment because subframe gets dropped.
7-header collector gaskets because they are $10 and we're here soooooo…..

Now honestly if I was doing it myself and had the car on jacks already I'd probably also do……
8-pulleys & belts
9-oil filter housing gasket
10-Water pump & O-rings on the two pipe plenum.
11-Thermostat
12-plugs
13-air filter

PS:because it occurred on the road my insurance paid for the pan, gasket, oil sensor and that labor.Hopefully you can do the same? I had my dealer do the RB's for $1500 because they already disassembled everything in the way to that point for the insurance work. So I paid out of the pocket $1500 and got their warranty on the RB's👍🏼 The smartest thing I read in your post was that you turned your motor off. FWIW I had no CEL so I continued home leaving a trail of oil the whole way. Lol I had the windows down about a mile from home at a light and my S65 sounded like a fucking steam engine! The valves were so noisy! In the end Purl is just fine🤘🏼

[VrooM3]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

I went through this exact bullshit. Some raised up concrete from big trucks making groves deathstar shot my oil pan. I basically did the following….
1-Pan/Gasket
2-Oil sensor
3-RB's
4-motor mounts
5-Trans mounts
6-Alignment because subframe gets dropped.
7-header collector gaskets because they are $10 and we're here soooooo…..

Now honestly if I was doing it myself and had the car on jacks already I'd probably also do……
8-pulleys & belts
9-oil filter housing gasket
10-Water pump & O-rings on the two pipe plenum.
11-Thermostat
12-plugs
13-air filter

PS:because it occurred on the road my insurance paid for the pan, gasket, oil sensor and that labor.Hopefully you can do the same? I had my dealer do the RB's for $1500 because they already disassembled everything in the way to that point for the insurance work. So I paid out of the pocket $1500 and got their warranty on the RB's👍🏼 The smartest thing I read in your post was that you turned your motor off. FWIW I had no CEL so I continued home leaving a trail of oil the whole way. Lol I had the windows down about a mile from home at a light and my S65 sounded like a fucking steam engine! The valves were so noisy! In the end Purl is just fine🤘🏼

My insurance will be covering it as well, so i'm more or less in the same boat as you were. In my case however, the whole front of the pan got sheered off, so there is the chance of sudden oil loss (it left a 200ft long trail, dumping most of its oil out in seconds. It's coming apart soon so we'll see the extent of the damage soon. Either way, i'll be replacing whatever makes sense since i'm saving on labor.

thanks for your input

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by VrooM3

My insurance will be covering it as well, so i'm more or less in the same boat as you were. In my case however, the whole front of the pan got sheered off, so there is the chance of sudden oil loss (it left a 200ft long trail, dumping most of its oil out in seconds. It's coming apart soon so we'll see the extent of the damage soon. Either way, i'll be replacing whatever makes sense since i'm saving on labor.

thanks for your input

Yikes I hope the pan being forced off didn't destroy the mating surface on the lower block. The pans seem to be cast material and that is really brittle so I bet you're ok. Let us know how things go for ya.

[nick3753]

This also happened to me this past January. Hit what I think was a tool box. Torpedoed the pan. Complete loss of oil within 10-15 seconds. Engine off within 30-45 seconds (had to get to a safe spot). Ended up with new pan, sensor, undertray, engine mounts and rod bearings plus alignment. They also paid out for another bumper, though I had a euro bumper and just kept it as is (chipped of a chunk of the bumper on the bottom out of site). Insurance covered everything minus the engine mounts, cleaning and new oil/filter. I was going to pay out of pocket for the bearings, but they were scored and the insurance covered them. Hopefully my mains were ok🤞🏻.

[VrooM3]

Originally Posted by nick3753

This also happened to me this past January. Hit what I think was a tool box. Torpedoed the pan. Complete loss of oil within 10-15 seconds. Engine off within 30-45 seconds (had to get to a safe spot). Ended up with new pan, sensor, undertray, engine mounts and rod bearings plus alignment. They also paid out for another bumper, though I had a euro bumper and just kept it as is (chipped of a chunk of the bumper on the bottom out of site). Insurance covered everything minus the engine mounts, cleaning and new oil/filter. I was going to pay out of pocket for the bearings, but they were scored and the insurance covered them. Hopefully my mains were ok����.

The oil pan being made of cast aluminum is great for performance but not durability, and it seems pretty low slung too. In my case some of the felt undertray, the aluminum pan guard/undertray, pan and whatever we find inside (maybe rod bearings etc) will be covered, and he'll check the mains for damage and since he's already in there, i'll probably change the mains too since the part is priced within reason and the car has 110k miles on it anyway. I'll probably do the engine mounts and maybe tranny mounts (if they look tired).

[TechE]

I watched M359 Restorations rebuild his S85. If our engine is anything like it, then maybe not replace, but check the VANOS pump lash and oil pump internals.