Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[Thorsveinyhammer]

Yes, that is correct. The F-series cd player and CIC are in the same unit. What you’re saying also makes sense about the coding. That being said, It seems that Mr12volt really dropped the ball on the compatibility for the P2000.

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by Thorsveinyhammer

Yes, that is correct. The F-series cd player and CIC are in the same unit. What you’re saying also makes sense about the coding. That being said, It seems that Mr12volt really dropped the ball on the compatibility for the P2000.

It sounds like you have a installation mistake, I'll go fiddle with my F25X3 and see what how it hooks up as it should be the same as the E9x if you have a 4pin LVDS cable CIC HU.

[Thorsveinyhammer]

Originally Posted by GORDON.M3

It sounds like you have a installation mistake, I'll go fiddle with my F25X3 and see what how it hooks up as it should be the same as the E9x if you have a 4pin LVDS cable CIC HU.

I suppose anything is possible, but intermittent failures are typically due to faulty hardware or software. Quality control for these Chinese made electronics is not the greatest. There could be design issues as well. CAN bus has a lot going on. As far as the install, this thing is pretty straight forward to hookup. You pop out the fiber connection on the quad-lock and plug that into the provided fiber pigtail. One end goes to the MR12V and one goes back to the quad lock. The power harness plugs into the idrive controller and there's a CIC cable pigtail. All of the connections are unique so it's not like you can put a square peg in a round hole. The bluetooth connectivity and audio problems are known issues with this platform. If you look at forums for their other platforms like Porsche or MB, people have similar issues. It is what it is at this point.

[DLucian]

Originally Posted by GORDON.M3

You need the power filter thingy, I bought one on aliexpress and when hooking it to the ground I wired it directly to the taillight ground wire. Ever since then I had no issues. Before on reverse, it would activate sometimes and it won't.

Thanks for your help. Can you shed some light on this "power filter thingy"?

[Answer3i]

Hi all! I'm new on this forum, but I had to read, I think, whole topic)
I just installed my CarPlay unit, but it does not work properly.
So my car is e60 2009 with CHAMP(mask 2) + mulf2(BT hands free via MOST) + s694a (cdc prep.)
What I did in NCS Expert:
1. Delete 694 from FA and did FA_WRITE to CAS and LMA
2. Add $672 to FA and did FA_WRITE to CAS and LMA
3. Wait until car is sleep

After switched on cdc does not appear in iDrive menu. I see only - FM, AM, CD(grey), AUX.
I checked all FO cables, and saw red light on it. OEM BT HF work well, so I think FO loop not broke. Also my iPhone can connect via BT or wi-fi to mr12volt cp.
Everything looks well, but does not work.

In ISTA P i see CDC in ECU diagram, but it's red and name is CDC_0x3C (hmmm, is strange)
In iDrive hidden menu I found this - CDC - False.

Maybe i have to code something else?
Thanks!

[pathall1]

Originally Posted by Mvy

Attachment 3113005

Attachment 3117888

Final update from me now that I got it all working.
Key Call Outs:
* No relay needed for me to get the back up cam to work with mr12v and a 6mt. I did run a line for power and trigger dash to trunk along with the RCA cable trunk to dash to make it easier for me to do most of the work in the trunk.
* I too had to code to get the CD changer active, it didnt auto activate. Needed to code two things: 1) SVS I drive button on steering wheel to activate Siri. 2) Add CD changer

Here is what I had coded. You can use Bimmercode.(thanks Mike B!)
1) code out the SVS idrive function to get Siri going over the steering wheel button
Headunit -> Expert Mode -> 3000 HMI
Find SVS option and change it to nicht active
CODE -> START CODING

2) Headunit -> Expert Mode -> 3000 HMI
Find CDMM_CHANGER_3 option and change it to mp3_cdc
CODE -> START CODING

*The hardest part for me was finding the back up light trigger wire on an e93 as there are two black violet wires and it turned out to be #4 on the wire harness to the tail light.

Wiring Basics:
I ran the rca cable trunk to dash along with two new wires from dash to trunk (one on the 12v power for rear cam, the other for the trigger for rear cam). I attached the black camera trigger wire to the chassis as a ground. Then I connected the blue trigger wire to my back up light wire harness #4.

Note for E93 Owners:
Getting this to pivot with the hard top required some care and running along the rail with other wires but leaving enough slack and zip tying in the right places so the opening or closing top does not bite or tear out the wiring. Everything is running smoothly after operating the convertable following a delicate open and close process and zip tying/taping as needed along the way. Use black electric tape to bind the wires into a more durable cord and follow the pivot points. Remember the whole trunk lid pivots backward, and you need enough slack available to move with that action. See where BMW wire gudes are and follow them. Go slow and it will not be too hard to get it done without ripping them out your first hard top operation.

Boot Screen:
I also got the password/boot screen logo issue worked out. Don't use the sd card slot, use the usb dongle that you likely wired into the glove box. The newer unit (Model No: P2000-CICMD) does not use a password. Here are the instructions I got from the Mr12v team (cleaned up with my notes added).

Instruction for changing bootup logo:
See above for a sample custom image you can use, just remove the .jpg from the file and add to the USB stick. Also find the update file I got from Mr12v as a zip file. The bootlogo file in that zip file should be replaced with either the one I provided or the one you create following the instructions below.

Preparation:
Take your 16gb or less stick formatted as fat 32.
Unzip the update tool in the attachment above, you will get two files:
update
bootlogo

If you want Create your custom start up image:
Image file must be in .jpg format, 800x400 and less than 30kb in file size
If you create the image in Photoshop, make sure the jpeg is output with "baseline encoding", or simply use Windows Painter/Mac preview to create a jpeg image.
The filename must be saved as bootlogo.jpg at first, but after the image file is created, use file manager to remove the file extension .jpg from bootlogo.jpg. This leaves you with a file called bootlogo with no extension on the end. This is the most common area people fail on the install so be sure you follow this critical step as they unit wont recognize the file if its a .jpg or image type file extensions.

Replace the file bootlogo with the new bootlogo you have just created (or the one I provided above) after you remove the .jpg from the file.
Now place these two files into the USB stick, dont create any folders, just the two files update and bootlogo.

Plug the usb stick into the p2000 usb cable then go to:
P2000 (CD 1 setting from BMW head unit)>Settings>System>Factory Mode>select Reboot
It may trigger the system to think you have entered a USB stick with mp3 files on it, if that happens just back out to the main menu and go to settings.
Once you reboot you should see a red screen, then the text "Update in Progress" and finally you will see the new logo created by you on the screen. Disconnect the stick once you see your logo. Its now updated and the new splash screen will appear if you start the car up from the P2000 instead of the head unit. Its pretty cool when it all comes together!

Hope this helps others. It took me a while to get all this straight and I tried to document so its easy when you have to do it.

Appreciate this info. My box got delivered today and I want to make sure I have all the hardware I need before I start pulling my car apart. Do you have any info on the USB dongle you're using here? As I understand it, it has to be some kind of a male microSD to female USB extension adapter, which I can't seem to find anywhere. Am I misunderstanding? I'd appreciate anything you could tell me - thanks!

[DLucian]

Originally Posted by Answer3i

Hi all! I'm new on this forum, but I had to read, I think, whole topic)
I just installed my CarPlay unit, but it does not work properly.
So my car is e60 2009 with CHAMP(mask 2) + mulf2(BT hands free via MOST) + s694a (cdc prep.)
What I did in NCS Expert:
1. Delete 694 from FA and did FA_WRITE to CAS and LMA
2. Add $672 to FA and did FA_WRITE to CAS and LMA
3. Wait until car is sleep

After switched on cdc does not appear in iDrive menu. I see only - FM, AM, CD(grey), AUX.
I checked all FO cables, and saw red light on it. OEM BT HF work well, so I think FO loop not broke. Also my iPhone can connect via BT or wi-fi to mr12volt cp.
Everything looks well, but does not work.

In ISTA P i see CDC in ECU diagram, but it's red and name is CDC_0x3C (hmmm, is strange)
In iDrive hidden menu I found this - CDC - False.

Maybe i have to code something else?
Thanks!

Have you tried leaving both $694 and $672?

[Answer3i]

Originally Posted by DLucian

Have you tried leaving both $694 and $672?

No, does that make sense?
Also problem is my dcan cable cannot read champ ecu fully, received only part of trace. But, in trace cdc is aktiv

[DLucian]

Well, I have not read anywhere that one excludes the other. I recently installed a CIC in my E91 from no nav and when I copied all the codes from the donor vehicle, I had to include, among others, "$609 Navigation system Professional", "$633 Preparation, mobile phone, Business" and "07SP Navi Professional/m.-ph.prep. Bluetooth".

If you have all the tools, there is a small chance it would work and you won't ruin anything by trying, so, you can try this. If it's a conflicting combination, NCS will throw an error. If not, it will simply not work.

[Answer3i]

Originally Posted by DLucian

Well, I have not read anywhere that one excludes the other. I recently installed a CIC in my E91 from no nav and when I copied all the codes from the donor vehicle, I had to include, among others, "$609 Navigation system Professional", "$633 Preparation, mobile phone, Business" and "07SP Navi Professional/m.-ph.prep. Bluetooth".

If you have all the tools, there is a small chance it would work and you won't ruin anything by trying, so, you can try this. If it's a conflicting combination, NCS will throw an error. If not, it will simply not work.

Thanks for advice, I’ll try tomorrow. Found a specialist with icom, try to code champ unit

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by DLucian

Thanks for your help. Can you shed some light on this "power filter thingy"?

If you go on ebay or aliexpress, and you look up 12v reverse camera filter. You'll see it, it's a capacitor to stabilize the 12volt power that goes into the rear camera.

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by Answer3i

Hi all! I'm new on this forum, but I had to read, I think, whole topic)
I just installed my CarPlay unit, but it does not work properly.
So my car is e60 2009 with CHAMP(mask 2) + mulf2(BT hands free via MOST) + s694a (cdc prep.)
What I did in NCS Expert:
1. Delete 694 from FA and did FA_WRITE to CAS and LMA
2. Add $672 to FA and did FA_WRITE to CAS and LMA
3. Wait until car is sleep

After switched on cdc does not appear in iDrive menu. I see only - FM, AM, CD(grey), AUX.
I checked all FO cables, and saw red light on it. OEM BT HF work well, so I think FO loop not broke. Also my iPhone can connect via BT or wi-fi to mr12volt cp.
Everything looks well, but does not work.

In ISTA P i see CDC in ECU diagram, but it's red and name is CDC_0x3C (hmmm, is strange)
In iDrive hidden menu I found this - CDC - False.

Maybe i have to code something else?
Thanks!

you are doing this wrong, leave your original VO intact without changes, add the CDC VO and simply code the headunit. Then your headunit will have the necessary changes for CDC.

Originally Posted by Thorsveinyhammer

I suppose anything is possible, but intermittent failures are typically due to faulty hardware or software. Quality control for these Chinese made electronics is not the greatest. There could be design issues as well. CAN bus has a lot going on. As far as the install, this thing is pretty straight forward to hookup. You pop out the fiber connection on the quad-lock and plug that into the provided fiber pigtail. One end goes to the MR12V and one goes back to the quad lock. The power harness plugs into the idrive controller and there's a CIC cable pigtail. All of the connections are unique so it's not like you can put a square peg in a round hole. The bluetooth connectivity and audio problems are known issues with this platform. If you look at forums for their other platforms like Porsche or MB, people have similar issues. It is what it is at this point.

You have to switch the head off the loop and connect it to the fiber optic plug you removed from the quad lock. Did you follow the youtube instructions? If you have then there should be no end that is not connected/left unplugged.

[Answer3i]

Originally Posted by GORDON.M3

you are doing this wrong, leave your original VO intact without changes, add the CDC VO and simply code the headunit. Then your headunit will have the necessary changes for CDC.

Do you mean I have to keep both $694 and $672 in VO?

[Answer3i]

New info! Coding fixed my issue) CarPlay works fine, finally))
But! I've got strange bug. In some case I cannot back to original iDrive menu. When I pressing menu - just blank screen.
Case:
1. Turn on the car (Ignition on)
2. Open CarPlay
3. Turn off the car.

After turning on the car, CarPlay opens automatically and after that I get blank screen after pressing menu button.
Fix is simple:
1. Before turning off I need press "Radio" button.
2. Original menu will open on next ignition on. And switching between CarPlay and iDrive will work fine.

Latest firmware mr12volt.

[drwankel]

I've seen a number of recent posts here that clearly seem like they are coding related.

If folks have questions around this space, dumping your CIC/CCC coding with NCS expert and posting it here would allow some of us to review the coding and see what might be out of wack.

[kawstik]

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. Installed Mr12Volt last week and couldn't be happier. Install was smooth as silk.

For those looking for CCC coding it was literally just:

CDC
aktiv

MP3_CCC
aktiv
extern

[RUG8RB8]

Originally Posted by kawstik

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. Installed Mr12Volt last week and couldn't be happier. Install was smooth as silk.

For those looking for CCC coding it was literally just:

CDC
aktiv

MP3_CCC
aktiv
extern

What active display gauge is that??? I have a P3 but that looks better!

[kawstik]

Originally Posted by RUG8RB8

What active display gauge is that??? I have a P3 but that looks better!

Awron gauge with boost monitoring. They're out of production.

[daiv_]

Originally Posted by kawstik

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. Installed Mr12Volt last week and couldn't be happier. Install was smooth as silk.

For those looking for CCC coding it was literally just:

CDC
aktiv

MP3_CCC
aktiv
extern

I've just installed this unit, but my main gripe is the screen quality - i can barely read street names on google maps (the aspect ratio is correct), but on your CCC unit it looks okay.

Mine is a 2005 E61, so not sure if the screens got a bump in quality over time or something, as i read that e92 and e6x's share the same screen.

[kawstik]

Originally Posted by daiv_

I've just installed this unit, but my main gripe is the screen quality - i can barely read street names on google maps (the aspect ratio is correct), but on your CCC unit it looks okay.

Mine is a 2005 E61, so not sure if the screens got a bump in quality over time or something, as i read that e92 and e6x's share the same screen.

I'm pretty sure it's the same screen but I could be wrong. Mine is a 2008 E92 M3. Maybe double check the firmware on the Mr12Volt unit? My firmware is June of '22.

I wouldn't call mine crystal clear but that picture doesn't quite do it justice. I can easily read the small street names on the map. It's pretty darn clear.

[daiv_]

Originally Posted by kawstik

I'm pretty sure it's the same screen but I could be wrong. Mine is a 2008 E92 M3. Maybe double check the firmware on the Mr12Volt unit? My firmware is June of '22.

I wouldn't call mine crystal clear but that picture doesn't quite do it justice. I can easily read the small street names on the map. It's pretty darn clear.

I did note when taking mine apart that i had a Siemens unit, whereas the later models seem to have Alpine units, so i've ordered a used 2008 stamped Alpine screen (with the same connections) to see if it improves it at all, it was only £30.

I installed the latest MCU update (dated December 2022), which fixed some navigation issues i was having, but didn't change screen quality at all.

Ignoring that, my versions are attached.

[kawstik]

Originally Posted by daiv_

I did note when taking mine apart that i had a Siemens unit, whereas the later models seem to have Alpine units, so i've ordered a used 2008 stamped Alpine screen (with the same connections) to see if it improves it at all, it was only £30.

I installed the latest MCU update (dated December 2022), which fixed some navigation issues i was having, but didn't change screen quality at all.

Ignoring that, my versions are attached.

Looking at your firmware version it's dated 3/30/2022. The latest CCC firmware is 12/7/2022. I'd probably go that route to see if maybe a firmware update improves the display before replacing the display unit as you'll need to code that to your car.

My $0.02. Good luck!