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      04-20-2017, 07:43 PM   #23
azndrunk74
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be sure to retorque the bolts after some mileage. they tend to stretch when heated up and will get loose again which will cause fluid to seep/leak. i've encountered this on my 1st and 2nd transmission.
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      04-20-2017, 08:44 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfisher99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
Well so far I have 112 miles on the new fluid. Engine temps seem to be lower but it was only 68 where I was today. The shifts all seem fine now but I haven't gone above S2 nor stomped on it yet. I wanted to ease into the new fluid for a couple hundred miles before going back to reckless mode.

In your case that failed heat shield may be the cause of the weeping you are seeing. The point of that shield is too shield heat created by the exhaust nearby. If heat has been beating up your trans from both sides because of the exhaust piping, this might have prematurely dried out your gaskets? Just an idea though.
My DCT has been missing that cover since I bought it last year. Is this the part?

51757898849

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51757898849/
Yes. It's not for impact protection, just heat deflection.
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      04-20-2017, 08:46 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azndrunk74 View Post
be sure to retorque the bolts after some mileage. they tend to stretch when heated up and will get loose again which will cause fluid to seep/leak. i've encountered this on my 1st and 2nd transmission.
I torqued them to 9nm and I followed the tightening plan in Bentley. The holes do not go through so they reach an end point at 9nm. If they stretch wouldn't that be from over torquing them?
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      04-20-2017, 08:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
I torqued them to 9nm and I followed the tightening plan in Bentley. The holes do not go through so they reach an end point at 9nm. If they stretch wouldn't that be from over torquing them?
i forgot how SSPKris explained it - the bolts tend to backout due to the expansion/contraction of either the plastic pan cover or the bolts themselves. yes, initially at 9nm they will screw in just fine. Over time they will back out..i've experienced this personally. it doesn't hurt to check the bolts every oil change. i just retightened mine and no more leak. i have a new pan, new fluid, gaskets (top and bottom), o-rings and it leaked 8-9k miles later.
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      04-20-2017, 09:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azndrunk74 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
I torqued them to 9nm and I followed the tightening plan in Bentley. The holes do not go through so they reach an end point at 9nm. If they stretch wouldn't that be from over torquing them?
i forgot how SSPKris explained it - the bolts tend to backout due to the expansion/contraction of either the plastic pan cover or the bolts themselves. yes, initially at 9nm they will screw in just fine. Over time they will back out..i've experienced this personally. it doesn't hurt to check the bolts every oil change. i just retightened mine and no more leak. i have a new pan, new fluid, gaskets (top and bottom), o-rings and it leaked 8-9k miles later.
Ok, thanx for the heads up. That's only like another 5 minutes added to an oil change, so why not. Considering I get oil changes every month I'll see soon. I drive a lot!
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      04-20-2017, 11:43 PM   #28
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You may also have some issues/leaks from the mechatronics cover. I believe the trans needs to come out to fix the leak.
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      04-21-2017, 12:04 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
Ok, thanx for the heads up. That's only like another 5 minutes added to an oil change, so why not. Considering I get oil changes every month I'll see soon. I drive a lot!
haha i'm not saying it will leak every oil change but it doesn't hurt to do a quick visual check. it's easy to tell if the felt cover is soaked
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      04-21-2017, 09:34 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfisher99 View Post
My DCT has been missing that cover since I bought it last year. Is this the part?

51757898849

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51757898849/


Yes, that is the piece. On mine the felt bottom is detaching from the aluminum sides.

Having had to remove it a couple of times to replace O2 Sensors, I will warn you that you really need to lower the back edge of the aluminum undertray so that you can attach the felt cover correctly, else it is a bear to squeeze in and you will lose the metal clips that the attachment screws go in.

There are also 3 or 4 different kinds of screws holding it in place, so if those are also missing you will need to go shopping for those, too.
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      04-21-2017, 02:50 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
You may also have some issues/leaks from the mechatronics cover. I believe the trans needs to come out to fix the leak.
No, just the pan. I cleaned everything with rags and got it all new clean. It was on Jacks for about four days and no new drops from mech unit or anything else. Today I put it on ramps just to check after now putting 200 miles on the new fluid. Still clean and new looking. It's all pretty straight forward. I hit a huge rock...dropped the pan and saw the spider crack. Nothing else was effected.
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      04-22-2017, 08:57 PM   #32
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Glad you got it sorted.
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      04-22-2017, 10:34 PM   #33
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So a couple things to share:

1. There is a specific order of tightening the oil pan bolts.
2. Tightening torque is 10+/-1 Nm, which is basically hand tight, I guess.
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      04-24-2017, 08:23 PM   #34
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Thanks for the info/pictures!

Quick question - the ECS kit comes with 2 drain plugs, OEM and ECS. Like you mentioned there's already a magnet in there so I'll save the few buck and get just OEM. But do I need 2? Or did ECS just throw both of them in there so the customer has options?

Here's the part: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/28107850241/


EDIT: Couple of things. First of all, you only need 1 of these. The one for the trans pan is totally different, and if you're changing the pan anyway the new one comes with it already. And as mentioned in another comment, there's already a magnet inside of the trans pan, so don't waste money on the ECS one either. Second thing, I would not order the "OEM" one from ECS either. It's significantly shorter, which might not make a difference in the end, but why risk it? Just order through an OEM source I guess. See pic below.

ECS "OEM" (left) vs. factory OEM (right)
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Last edited by M3MPH1S; 05-17-2017 at 09:54 PM..
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      04-24-2017, 10:34 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3MPH1S View Post
Thanks for the info/pictures!

Quick question - the ECS kit comes with 2 drain plugs, OEM and ECS. Like you mentioned there's already a magnet in there so I'll save the few buck and get just OEM. But do I need 2? Or did ECS just throw both of them in there so the customer has options?

Here's the part: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/28107850241/
One is for trans pan and one is for trans fill hole. BMW recommends replacing trans filler bolt just like they recommend replacing the two drain bolts when doing engine oil. If you don't do a hack job and insert the Allen-wrench that "FITS PROPERLY" like Ray Charles you should be fine. I believe it was a #8 metric Allen. Kinda unnecessary I think.
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      04-25-2017, 03:07 PM   #36
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I think they spec a replacement for any fasterner that gets torqued, but in this case it is probably a gasket that compresses, as it is the crush washer on the oil pan, so it doesn't seem necessary to me. Have not taken mine out yet, but will get around to it some time soon I hope.
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      05-17-2017, 09:59 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rzm3 View Post
So a couple things to share:

1. There is a specific order of tightening the oil pan bolts.
2. Tightening torque is 10+/-1 Nm, which is basically hand tight, I guess.
And from the other thread, here's the tightening pattern (thanks to SimiM3):

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=137
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      09-02-2018, 12:20 AM   #38
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how do you reattach the suction jet pump part number: 4360057210?

it is the yellow plastic piece holding the flat filter in place inside the transmission. it popped off when i was removing the filter, not sure how to reattach it. doesnt look broken

Never mind. It just pops back into place with a little pressure.

Last edited by ItsCoo2PYoPants; 09-02-2018 at 02:45 AM..
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      01-16-2019, 11:17 PM   #39
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Only 4.5L to fill after the pan replacement?
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      03-29-2021, 02:50 PM   #40
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Only 4.5L to fill after the pan replacement?
Mine took 5.7L after replacing both filters and the pan this past weekend.
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