Track forum general chit chat.

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by SonnyJack

Yes sir. Plenty of room.

I haven't worked on E92 but on E46 there is zero risk or need for spring compressors. How much tension is rear spring under at full droop? The suspensions look similar.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by rhyary

What do I need to do to not worry about the spring tension? I am afraid something will be exploding in my face?

If I lift the car on the Quickjack and all four wheels are drooping, Do I work with the spring under tension, or is it loose at that point?

I have 7" spring

I'm assuming you have helper springs in the rear. So with the rear lifted on both sides, the helpers will be partially unloaded at full droop before you remove the bolts. Thus, the main spring will be completely unloaded, removing any risk of the spring exploding out when you remove the bolts.

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I haven't worked on E92 but on E46 there is zero risk or need for spring compressors. How much tension is rear spring under at full droop? The suspensions look similar.

Depends on spring rate, length, helpers, ride height etc. I suppose, but at full droop with 8" 800lb springs (that I swapped to 900lb) the helpers were still mostly compressed so I had to drop the control arm. Ride height, spring rate, and helper stack height should be the only factors though really.


Also, depending on how much upward adjustment you have left on the perch you could possibly do what someone above suggested and run the perch all of the way up to possibly relieve enough tension on the helper to remove the springs.

[SonnyJack]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I haven't worked on E92 but on E46 there is zero risk or need for spring compressors. How much tension is rear spring under at full droop? The suspensions look similar.

I've never been able to pull it off w/o the compressor, but keep in mind I'm an investment guy, not a mechanic.

More than possible that I've been doing it the hard way. However, I distinctly remember the first lowering springs I had installed many, many years ago had to be compressed by a BMW trained mechanic.

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by SonnyJack

I've never been able to pull it off w/o the compressor, but keep in mind I'm an investment guy, not a mechanic.

More than possible that I've been doing it the hard way. However, I distinctly remember the first lowering springs I had installed many, many years ago had to be compressed by a BMW trained mechanic.

I suspect the E46 has more droop than E9x which makes it easier.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I suspect the E46 has more droop than E9x which makes it easier.

I think the OEM uses 9" spring.
I am using 7".

The reason I am trying to get all the info on doing this in my garage is that if I start and can't finish, I am serious a jam. I have all the tools to do it. I just did the front hubs and brake pads myself. I did many jobs on my 1996 LandCruiser (complete front and rear end axle rebuilt) so I can follow instructions.

The spring popping in my face or a bushings does can't go be back in is what I an afraid off.

Can I just take one bold on the spindle side to have slack to pull it out? I am not sure what is in the way once I dropped it enough down

[SYT_Shadow]

It can be done quite easily at home without any special tools.

I've lost count of how many E9X suspensions I've done.

The rear spring just comes off. You might have to remove the sway bar end link and you'll also have to remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the shock in. Getting that bolt back in is a pain in the ass but it gets back in eventually after the car has taken payment in your sweat and blood.

There are no bushings to worry about whatsoever.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

It can be done quite easily at home without any special tools.

I've lost count of how many E9X suspensions I've done.

The rear spring just comes off. You might have to remove the sway bar end link and you'll also have to remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the shock in. Getting that bolt back in is a pain in the ass but it gets back in eventually after the car has taken payment in your sweat and blood.

There are no bushings to worry about whatsoever.

Are you advising to NOT remove the LCA-Spindle bolt?

The lower bolt from the link is not coming out, I don't want to go there if I don't have to. The upper link bolt is no problem.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Are you advising to NOT remove the LCA-Spindle bolt?

The lower bolt from the link is not coming out, I don't want to go there if I don't have to. The upper link bolt is no problem.

You have to remove bolt #6 from the earlier diagram. That's the one that's difficult to put back in

I've done suspensions on E46 M3s, E46 330s, X5s, E9Xs, F8Xs. Never had to do any weird stuff with compressors.

[Richbot]

The LCA bolt at the spindle is all about the 7 p's - prior proper preparation prevents piss poor performance

If you don't take the time to use a jack and blocks or trns jack or whatever you have handy to get the holes lined up, you're gonne french fry when you should have pizza-ed and you're gonna have a bad time. I've got it pretty well down to a science - there were a couple times early on with this car I was pretty sure I stripped the threads before I realized you can't just spray and pray

And, if you mark your LCA bolts at the inboard side, reassembly is the reverse of removal and alignment shouldn't move other than the changes required by geometry if the loaded spring length has changed

What's a suspension bushing is that like one of those things normies have on their cars to keep them from feeling feelings?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Richbot

What's a suspension bushing is that like one of those things normies have on their cars to keep them from feeling feelings?

My sides are in orbit. I'm definitely stealing this phrase.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

You have to remove bolt #6 from the earlier diagram. That's the one that's difficult to put back in

I've done suspensions on E46 M3s, E46 330s, X5s, E9Xs, F8Xs. Never had to do any weird stuff with compressors.

Bolt #6 makes sense.
thank you

I have solid bushings if that makes a difference

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Bolt #6 makes sense.
thank you

I have solid bushings if that makes a difference

Makes zero difference

[Ximian]

Exchanged a few more emails with do88 - they'll need the number of people in the group buy and potentially the items to get a better idea of the discount for the autumn when they have more parts.

If this 10% off sale isn't a scam, it sounds like the best deal for this season. Also, quite a few people have complained about customs or brokerage fees so that's another cost to keep in mind.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Exchanged a few more emails with do88 - they'll need the number of people in the group buy and potentially the items to get a better idea of the discount for the autumn when they have more parts.

If this 10% off sale isn't a scam, it sounds like the best deal for this season. Also, quite a few people have complained about customs or brokerage fees so that's another cost to keep in mind.

I took a chance on the 10% off deal and will keep you guys posted. Ordered the oil cooler.

[Kelse92]

My wallet is saying no to any big purchases right now but the Oil Cooler is definitely one I would be in for in the Fall Ximian
I may also consider DCT cooler too if there's any other interest in that one

[VicS5]

Put car up on jack stands so wheels are drooping. Use the jack under the LCA as your spring compressor. Disconnect upper end of end link. (Also the position sensor on one side.) Raise jack enough to eliminate bind of the 2 bolts in the LCA. Once bolts are out, lower the jack, the spring is easily removed.

As pointed out by others, once new spring is in raise the Jack under the LCA to get the bolt holes lined up perfectly. IIRC, I found replacing the lower damper bolt first was easier. Reverse the steps above and you're golden.

[dparm]

Does their cooler have a provision for a temp sensor?

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

My wallet is saying no to any big purchases right now but the Oil Cooler is definitely one I would be in for in the Fall Ximian
I may also consider DCT cooler too if there's any other interest in that one

The "big pack" for the DCT get you a decent discount so it's not too much more if you're buying the DCT cooler and something else. The package is $2265 compared to $2726 for all four items separately.

Their Black Friday/Cyber Monday deal is a little bit better than 10% but they occasionally run out of stock so gotta get it early. I'll also try to a Quick Jack so I can install the Slon pan at the same time.

I'm not even pretending to have a car mod budget this year.

[admranger]

rhyary i recommend having a long punch available so you can pre align the hole so you have a good chance of getting the bolt to take on the first try. That being sad, it wasn’t as easy as changing the springs on the E46m3. Patience, not my long suit, was the key to success.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by admranger

rhyary i recommend having a long punch available so you can pre align the hole so you have a good chance of getting the bolt to take on the first try. That being sad, it wasn’t as easy as changing the springs on the E46m3. Patience, not my long suit, was the key to success.

Haha yes a long drift pin was key when I got that sleeve cocked in the LCA.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by admranger

rhyary i recommend having a long punch available so you can pre align the hole so you have a good chance of getting the bolt to take on the first try. That being sad, it wasn't as easy as changing the springs on the E46m3. Patience, not my long suit, was the key to success.

Thank you. Good advice.

[dparm]

Uhh....guys?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...let-camaro-10/