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10-27-2018, 01:05 PM | #1 |
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Grinding/Shaking low rpms
Hi All,
I just bought a 2011 ZCP M3 6spd with 91k miles. I have put on about 800 miles since purchase. Today when driving the car I started to get a grinding/shaking feeling while in low rpms in 1st/2nd gear. It is much more noticeable if I am turning the wheel. Based on the feeling through the steering wheel it feels like the wheel is rubbing up against something but I looked and nothing is wrong. It also feels like it sort of bogs the car down. The car undoubtedly needs new engine mounts along with trans, diff, and brake fluid. All of which I will be having done in the next month or so when I change the rod bearings. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? |
10-27-2018, 02:55 PM | #3 |
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The much more noticeable when turning the wheel leads me to believe it power steering pump related.
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10-27-2018, 03:04 PM | #4 |
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Stock ZCP wheels. There isn't anything physically rubbing, that is just what the sensation feels like.
It has been totally fine until I drove around downtown for roughly 30 mins today. There is definitely a shaking sensation. I thought it might be steering pump related but after researching steering pump symptoms it doesn't seem to fit. Also, I feel like the issue is still there even if I'm not turning, just not as noticeable. Could it be clutch related? I also need new sparkplugs soon, not sure if it could somehow be related to that. |
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10-27-2018, 03:30 PM | #5 |
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UPDATE: Just drove the car after letting it sit for 2.5hrs. The issue is definitely not power steering related. I am also pretty sure it isn't a problem with the engine because the tachometer is perfectly normal and no codes.
The car is shaking pretty bad when at low rpms. It isn't as bad when stopped with the car in neutral. It is much worse once in 1st or 2nd gear below 2500rpm. I think the car definitely needs new engine mounts but I'm not sure it would cause this, and certainly not suddenly. Any ideas? |
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10-27-2018, 03:35 PM | #6 | |
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10-27-2018, 03:41 PM | #8 |
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There isn't any sound really. You can just feel like it through the car.
It does feel like there may be more clutch slippage but it might just be me imagining it. I haven't mashed it at low rpm but it is accelerating with no problem when I ask it to. |
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10-27-2018, 05:15 PM | #9 |
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Since you are saying it is more noticeable when you turn the steering wheel, sounds like it is front of car.
If possible, lift the front of car and manually turn the front wheels. If it's stuck or grinding maybe something with the rotors? |
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10-29-2018, 03:00 AM | #10 |
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Does it feel like it's hesitating in the low revs? Change out your spark plugs and see if the problem still occurs
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10-29-2018, 03:03 AM | #11 | |
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10-29-2018, 06:06 AM | #12 |
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Could it be your mounts are letting the exhaust move and vibrate against something? Is the vibration in the wheelwell area of the car? Another possibility is the giubo and intermediate shaft bearing are loose. Just throwing out some guesses as this is tough without experiencing the issue first hand.
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10-29-2018, 07:50 PM | #13 |
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Took to mechanic today. He is confident that it is the engine mounts. That is what it feels like but I am shocked at how quickly it went from fine to severe symptoms.
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10-30-2018, 05:39 AM | #14 |
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Mounts make a huge difference and do go bad fast on our cars. I just did mine last month and when mine went bad, my motor was 1/2 inch lower than after puting in new ones. Caused me issues with my cats buzzing on the heat shield. Cold start delete helped a lot with all manner of vibration in my exhaust area at start up.
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10-30-2018, 08:42 AM | #15 |
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+1 on the mounts being a likely culprit. I had some pretty similar symptoms with my E90 6mt. Had the engine mounts done, and it was a night and day improvement. Smoothed out my 1-2 shifts massively.
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10-30-2018, 10:00 AM | #17 |
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Had a similar problem after changing spark plugs on my other car. It was running perfectly fine at idle, but as soon as put in drive or introduced yo any load( in your case that might be turning the steering wheel), the engine was shaking pretty badly. As soon as I changed the spark plugs for another set, everything worked fine. Obviously, your problem might completely different
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10-30-2018, 10:15 AM | #18 |
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Ok so now I have a dilemma on my hands. The car is sitting at my mechanic because I don't want to drive it until I get the engine mounts swapped (it feels really bad). However I wanted to go ahead and knock out rod bearings at the same time so I don't waste a bunch of money on labor twice.
I ordered some BE Bearings and bolts but I just got an email saying they actually ran out of stock on Friday. I have already searched and know about options from VAC and WPC treated OEMs but I've always heard you want the BEs. I am wondering what other members would do if they were in my situation? Just go with VACs? Should I still get the BE bolts since I can find them in stock?Or if anyone knows a place with BE bearings in stock right now that would be incredible. Thanks guys. |
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10-30-2018, 03:01 PM | #19 |
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I wouldn't worry too much about the brand here, good thing to have them replaced regardless at 91k. Plenty good stories about VAC (believe they have extended clearance as well). Used ACL myself, happy. No doubt BE are good stuff but again OEM took you this far, VAC will do equally good job or better.
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10-30-2018, 06:01 PM | #20 | |
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So I'll be doing rod bearings, engine mounts, transmission fluid/filter service, and differential fluid service next week. Then in a few months I will be doing spark plugs, 4 wheel brake pad/rotor service, and brake fluid. Hoping she will be pretty well sorted at that point. |
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10-31-2018, 11:47 AM | #22 |
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Jumping in a bit late here, but what is the condition of your tires? That could cause a grinding feeling when turning if they are excessively worn, flat spotted or unevenly worn.
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