Evaporator Replacement - Anoyone done themselves?

[TheHeath]

I just finished it, refilling tomorrow, what a pain in the dick.

You know it's going to be a job when the process requires your whole dash out, under hood work, steering column, hell even the back seats out, the only thing left were wires everywhere and the front seats.

I only asked because I couldn't find anyone that had done it themselves and it's damn expensive from BMW (who should offer a recall or something on this, the evaporator obviously fails quite commonly at low mileage).

I also couldn't find a write up, I should have taken more pics, but I could do one with a combo of the TIS I subscribed to pics and a dashboard removal writeup I found on here if people were interested.

[anom3]

Any new rattles after putting the dash together again?

[marksae]

Good job on tackling this job yourself! I'm thinking of doing it myself if mine fails. Did you have to take the door panels off too?

[Gossypiboma]

Excellent job. A write up as detailed as possible would be amazing.

[///Mvy]

Nicely done! If you could provide the TIS info we'd really appreciate it. If/when mine goes out I plan to replace it myself.

[JonM]

How did you know if you have a Valeo or Denso part before you got into there? I see both are applicable to the 08s.

for Denso only
Evaporator DENSO 1 64119179802 $391.42

ONLY APPLIES TO VALEO
Evaporator VALEO 1 64119290888

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...39&hg=64&fg=30

[Lunker325]

I just removed my dash and center console and swapped in extended leather pieces. I didn't think it was all that hard, just lots of trim pieces to remove and replace. The actual dash is only held in with 6 or so screws, so once you get there it comes right out. However, add in changing out the evaporator and I think it the job gets much more involved.

[TheHeath]

Yeah dash isn't so bad, it's more the wires and thay steering column, expansion valve, intake plenum, and all that on top of getting the dash and instrument cluster/dash support out.

For the other poster you can't until you get to it, so plug the a/c off good or find one and get it on quickly like I did. But... it seems like if it failed early it is most likely the Valeo, I think they are most common also


I'll work on getting my stuff together, making notes and scanning it all in

[TheHeath]

Oh missed the rattle post, no rattles I can tell so far, all is good, also fixed some stuff and added goodies while doing it all (dash cam hard wiring and android pc wiring)

The shop was extremely surprised I did it, it's really not really hard overall, just time consuming and you have to be meticulous. I had sore muscles after from being in all the different positions you get in figuring things out. Mine was a bit harder because of the aftermarket backup camera system and the built in radar system, made things tight wiring wise and under driver side panel

[edsonreds]

Originally Posted by TheHeath

Oh missed the rattle post, no rattles I can tell so far, all is good, also fixed some stuff and added goodies while doing it all (dash cam hard wiring and android pc wiring)

The shop was extremely surprised I did it, it's really not really hard overall, just time consuming and you have to be meticulous. I had sore muscles after from being in all the different positions you get in figuring things out. Mine was a bit harder because of the aftermarket backup camera system and the built in radar system, made things tight wiring wise and under driver side panel

Originally Posted by TheHeath

Oh missed the rattle post, no rattles I can tell so far, all is good, also fixed some stuff and added goodies while doing it all (dash cam hard wiring and android pc wiring)

The shop was extremely surprised I did it, it's really not really hard overall, just time consuming and you have to be meticulous. I had sore muscles after from being in all the different positions you get in figuring things out. Mine was a bit harder because of the aftermarket backup camera system and the built in radar system, made things tight wiring wise and under driver side panel

Hi TheHeath,

I am seriously planning on undertaking this DIY. I have a 2011 E92 M3 and the dealer has diagnosed it a "evaporator leak". I have the BMW workshop manual and so far I gathered all the instructions to take the dashboard out. This seems a long but easy procedure. Nonetheless, there no indication in the manual about how to change the evaporator. It is surprising.

I read your 2015 post and I was wondering if you could recall in general terms what other stuff I am missing. I will mention some of them:

1. Take out the steering column. I found the manual instructions and it seems to imply that It can be done without taking out the airbag and the steering wheel.
2. Should I drain the coolant and the A/C gas (what remains of it) before anything else?
3. Should I unscrew the 2 bolts on the expansion valve or just the the one that is attached to the evaporator?
4. Is it necessary to disconnect the heater core?
5. When comes the time to take out the intake plenum? What I must accomplish in doing that?
6. What is in the way of removing the instrument cluster/dash support out once I take the dashboard out?

All the best.

[drrust]

I was looking into what it takes to replace the evaporator as I had a leak in my system. Luckily it was the fill valve. You may have seen this video.

[edsonreds]

Originally Posted by drrust

I was looking into what it takes to replace the evaporator as I had a leak in my system. Luckily it was the fill valve. You may have seen this video.

Hi. Yeap. I've seem videos among them the one you posted. I gathered the TIS instructions. So far removing the dash doesnt seem scary. I am figuring out how to make the A/C system drawn off. I am concerned because the Manual says if the system is open more than 24hrs I should change the dissecant. I think I will research more. My evaporator will come in a couple of weeks. Luckily I found a way to know whether I needed a Valeo or Denso evaporator without dismantling the dash.

[nrubenstein]

Originally Posted by edsonreds

Hi. Yeap. I've seem videos among them the one you posted. I gathered the TIS instructions. So far removing the dash doesnt seem scary. I am figuring out how to make the A/C system drawn off. I am concerned because the Manual says if the system is open more than 24hrs I should change the dissecant. I think I will research more. My evaporator will come in a couple of weeks. Luckily I found a way to know whether I needed a Valeo or Denso evaporator without dismantling the dash.

Technically, you should just replace the receiver dryer given that you’ve had a leak and probably have depressurization the system at this point.

That said, given that it appears to be integrated into the condenser, it’s probably not worth worrying about. Just swap the evap and pull a vacuum on the system immediately. (Don’t wait to reassemble the dash - you need to make sure that it holds vacuum before you put it back together. Yes this means that you need to buy a vacuum pump and a set of gauges.)

[edsonreds]

Originally Posted by nrubenstein

Technically, you should just replace the receiver dryer given that you’ve had a leak and probably have depressurization the system at this point.

That said, given that it appears to be integrated into the condenser, it’s probably not worth worrying about. Just swap the evap and pull a vacuum on the system immediately. (Don’t wait to reassemble the dash - you need to make sure that it holds vacuum before you put it back together. Yes this means that you need to buy a vacuum pump and a set of gauges.)

Oh. Thanks. That make sense. Just to be sure. After I replace the evaporator, I should close the system, take a vaccum pump and pressurize the system to make sure it is sealed. Am I right? If that is the case, do you know what many PSIs I should pump? I have a brake bleeder pump with pressure indicator so I get I will need a fitting to pump air in the low pressure valve of the A/C system. Please correct me if I am wrong.

[nrubenstein]

Originally Posted by edsonreds

Oh. Thanks. That make sense. Just to be sure. After I replace the evaporator, I should close the system, take a vaccum pump and pressurize the system to make sure it is sealed. Am I right? If that is the case, do you know what many PSIs I should pump? I have a brake bleeder pump with pressure indicator so I get I will need a fitting to pump air in the low pressure valve of the A/C system. Please correct me if I am wrong.

No. You need to pull a vacuum on the system with a set of AC gauges and a vacuum pump. Then, you need to see if it holds vacuum for at least one hour, preferably overnight.

I am not vouching for this specific setup, but something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-KIT6-Vacu.../dp/B001C6LG3Q

You may consider buying a postal scale and a cylinder of R134a. It’ll cost about the same as paying someone to charge it.

[edsonreds]

Originally Posted by nrubenstein

No. You need to pull a vacuum on the system with a set of AC gauges and a vacuum pump. Then, you need to see if it holds vacuum for at least one hour, preferably overnight.

I am not vouching for this specific setup, but something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-KIT6-Vacu.../dp/B001C6LG3Q

You may consider buying a postal scale and a cylinder of R134a. It'll cost about the same as paying someone to charge it.

thanks man. I will look into that. Since the car will be disassembled, I will make that procedure with the engine off (compressor turned off), or should I start the engine as if I were to charge the A/C System?

[nrubenstein]

Originally Posted by edsonreds

thanks man. I will look into that. Since the car will be disassembled, I will make that procedure with the engine off (compressor turned off), or should I start the engine as if I were to charge the A/C System?

The compressor will not turn on with a vacuum in the system. Starting the engine won’t do anything.

[nightkrawler]

Before you go ripping the evap out, I’d try a can of super seal, get the right stuff as iirc there are two products named the same. I’ve used this stuff on e90’s with evap leaks and sealed it every time. You need to evacuate the a/c system, pull a good vacuum for 10-15 min, put the sealer in and immediately charge, then run the a/c full blast for a solid hour to get the sealant through the system. Worth a shot.

[edsonreds]

Originally Posted by nightkrawler

Before you go ripping the evap out, I’d try a can of super seal, get the right stuff as iirc there are two products named the same. I’ve used this stuff on e90’s with evap leaks and sealed it every time. You need to evacuate the a/c system, pull a good vacuum for 10-15 min, put the sealer in and immediately charge, then run the a/c full blast for a solid hour to get the sealant through the system. Worth a shot.

i see. i will try. Just received my new valeo evaporator and planned to start the job this weekend.

do you mean this product? https://www.amazon.com/MRL-3-R-134a-.../dp/B004H8V0QY

i already tried this without result.
https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics.../dp/B000CO9IBG

[Timujin]

Any updates here?

[Darkmoyle]

Originally Posted by edsonreds

Hi TheHeath,

I am seriously planning on undertaking this DIY. I have a 2011 E92 M3 and the dealer has diagnosed it a "evaporator leak". I have the BMW workshop manual and so far I gathered all the instructions to take the dashboard out. This seems a long but easy procedure. Nonetheless, there no indication in the manual about how to change the evaporator. It is surprising.

I read your 2015 post and I was wondering if you could recall in general terms what other stuff I am missing. I will mention some of them:

1. Take out the steering column. I found the manual instructions and it seems to imply that It can be done without taking out the airbag and the steering wheel.
2. Should I drain the coolant and the A/C gas (what remains of it) before anything else?
3. Should I unscrew the 2 bolts on the expansion valve or just the the one that is attached to the evaporator?
4. Is it necessary to disconnect the heater core?
5. When comes the time to take out the intake plenum? What I must accomplish in doing that?
6. What is in the way of removing the instrument cluster/dash support out once I take the dashboard out?

All the best.

Hey edsonreds,

I am doing this job too. Did you get answers to your questions 2,3 and 4? I am comfortable taking out the dash but would like to know if I need to drain the coolant and how to safely depressurize AC system.

Thanks!

[edsonreds]

Originally Posted by Darkmoyle

Hey edsonreds,

I am doing this job too. Did you get answers to your questions 2,3 and 4? I am comfortable taking out the dash but would like to know if I need to drain the coolant and how to safely depressurize AC system.

Thanks!

Hi! Find my answers bellow:


1. Steering column. YES, you must do it and it is a beach!
2. Coolant: The moment you start taking hoses out of the heating unit, the coolant will start to flow, just a little. No worries. But you will have to top it up when you are done (in the end). About the AC gas: BEFORE you unscrew the expansion valve, drain the reamining gas. If you dont do it, you may hurt yourself! WATCH OUT!!!
3. Expansion Valve: unscrew every screw, just as stated in the TIS manual, it is pretty straightforward.
4. Heater core: YES, you will do it eventually. Follow the TIS manual.
5. Intake plenum removal: one of the first things to do.
6. Dash support: it is tricky, but follow along every step in the manual a you will be fine.

STRONG ADVISE: Film yourself! I mean, it is a very looooooooooong process, not difficult, if you do it in more than one day or week, you will forget where the connections where and the screws. Behave such as you had a night date with Sasha Grey and Dillion Harper, and film everything!!!! Best of luck!

Feel free to post anymore questions. Glad to help.


Sent from my iPhone