Transmission fluid pan

[Scrippy]

Anyone know the torque values for the bolts that hold the DCT trans fluid pan on the transmission? Hit a rock and cracked my trans pan because its fucking plastic.

[bigjae1976]

10nm or something? Its not a lot. I would recommend buying an extra 2 or 3 just in case when you replace the pan.

[Scrippy]

Thought I'd post a few helpful pics.

These are water bottles full of the fluid I collected. Pretty dark after 115,000 miles for a "lifetime fluid".

[Scrippy]

These two pics are of the overall look of the DCT with the fluid pan off. I found no metal shavings on the magnet inside the old pan and the inside looks good. You can actually see the gears up above if you look carefully. I did not see any signs of wear on any of the gearing that I could see. I had to dodge drips here and there lol.

[admranger]

The pan didn't crack, your transmission threw up. That's some nasty looking fluid!

If you can't get an actual factory number, you can usually get torque values from the size of the bolt. There are a ton of torque charts online for metric hardware. If I was home I'd just pull one out and look at it but alas, I'm in a tiny apartment in the DC area instead.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by admranger

The pan didn't crack, your transmission threw up. That's some nasty looking fluid!

If you can't get an actual factory number, you can usually get torque values from the size of the bolt. There are a ton of torque charts online for metric hardware. If I was home I'd just pull one out and look at it but alas, I'm in a tiny apartment in the DC area instead.

The pan cracked for a fact bud. A trans wouldn't throw fluid.....it would fail. Fluid would only flow out if the gasket wore out or some type of heat generated failure from fluid that would resemble dirty sap. Like I said, I ran over a rock I did not see. Magnet is clean though!

[bigjae1976]

You gonna replace the suction and pressure filter while you're in there?

I just did the service. My old fluid looked fine for 55k miles but why risk it?

At least that pan isn't too expensive to replace.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

You gonna replace the suction and pressure filter while you're in there?

I just did the service. My old fluid looked fine for 55k miles but why risk it?

At least that pan isn't too expensive to replace.

Yes

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

You gonna replace the suction and pressure filter while you're in there?

I just did the service. My old fluid looked fine for 55k miles but why risk it?

At least that pan isn't too expensive to replace.

I'm curious what you meant by your fluid looked fine. What color was it? On my spill pan it looked dark brown.....lighter than the oil but brown. In a bottle its black. I haven't seen the new fluid yet. It's still shipping.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

I'm curious what you meant by your fluid looked fine. What color was it? On my spill pan it looked dark brown.....lighter than the oil but brown. In a bottle its black. I haven't seen the new fluid yet. It's still shipping.

It was a medium dark brown and didn't smell burnt.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

The pan cracked for a fact bud. A trans wouldn't throw fluid.....it would fail. Fluid would only flow out if the gasket wore out or some type of heat generated failure from fluid that would resemble dirty sap. Like I said, I ran over a rock I did not see. Magnet is clean though!

Your humor detector is broken.

Sorry that your pan got whacked. Reminds me of when a friend hit a cinder block that a truck dumped on the road. Killed his sway bar and oil pan (but not engine!). Brutal when that happens.

Good news is you are DIY-ing it and it should be interesting.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by admranger

Your humor detector is broken.

Sorry that your pan got whacked. Reminds me of when a friend hit a cinder block that a truck dumped on the road. Killed his sway bar and oil pan (but not engine!). Brutal when that happens.

Good news is you are DIY-ing it and it should be interesting.

Sorry I didn't get the humor my man, my bad. All done actually. Replaced the following.......
1-Pan
2-(4 1/2) liters of fluid
3-flat filter
4-round filter
5-DCT fluid pump

Torqued pan bolts to 9nm and tightened in the order I found on workshopmanuals.com, which is pretty much opposite and adjacent pattern. Filled fluid until it poured out fill hole. Closed fill hole and started car and ran it at 2,000 RPM for 1 minute. Waited until trans fluid was 40 celsius roughly and added fluid with motor running until it leaked out of fill hole and closed her up. Took the car on a 5 mile run on S2 setting and everything seems fine so far. Tomorrow will be my first real use at work, so we'll see. I think I have a 150 mile round trip tomorrow for work.

[rzm3]

How easy/hard is replacing the filter?

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by rzm3

How easy/hard is replacing the filter?

Suction filter (flat filter) is easy....(2) hex screws and it just pops out. Just make sure you spread a little fluid on the O-rings before you insert the new one. The pressure filter is a little annoying....you have to unbolt the two lines going to cooler just to move them out of the way to unscrew cap that also has a C-clip aswell. The cap requires a special tool but I was able to use two flathead screw drivers with a piece of flat metal with two holes drilled in it. Very crude to say the least. All in all I believe the sketchiest part is knowing if you've put in enough fluid. The process I mentioned in above posts is all I could find.

[Locksmythe]

I am curious why ECS includes a magnetized drain plug when there is a magnet attached to the pan.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by Locksmythe

I am curious why ECS includes a magnetized drain plug when there is a magnet attached to the pan.

Because most people don't know there is a magnet in the stock pan. ECS Tuning really dropped the ball on me. The suction pump was on back order for 1 month yet the site said "in stock". Thy ended up sending me the wrong fluid. All this with $60 spent in "next day" shipping. I ended up buying the pump and fluid form my local dealer for a very inflated price. All because of a fucking piece of rock from a pothole. The roads in SoCal are becoming more and more bullshit with every passing day.

[Locksmythe]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

Because most people don't know there is a magnet in the stock pan. ECS Tuning really dropped the ball on me. The suction pump was on back order for 1 month yet the site said "in stock". Thy ended up sending me the wrong fluid. All this with $60 spent in "next day" shipping. I ended up buying the pump and fluid form my local dealer for a very inflated price. All because of a fucking piece of rock from a pothole. The roads in SoCal are becoming more and more bullshit with every passing day.

Bummer. Maybe should have just gone with some of that spray sealant they advertise making boat bottoms out of screen doors...

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by rzm3

How easy/hard is replacing the filter?

The pressure filter has a big stiff C clip so you need to pretty damned good pair of c-clip pliers.

I just skipped it for now. It's not like the wheel bearing c-clips where you can bust out the dremel and cut away.

I have some $25 knipex pliers...just need to get back under the car.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by Locksmythe

Bummer. Maybe should have just gone with some of that spray sealant they advertise making boat bottoms out of screen doors...

"Scrippy here with Flex-Seal, the easy way to repair your $15000 DCT"!!!!

[Locksmythe]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

"Scrippy here with Flex-Seal, the easy way to repair your $15000 DCT"!!!!

Flex-seal... Thank you, I wasn't commited enough to the joke to look up what it was called.

I need to replace my DCT oil pan due to a little weeping I saw during last maintenance, so I might as well do filters too. I also have to replace the felt cover as it has nearly disintegrated at all the connecting points. Only 3 of the original rivets are still in place. Had to use a zip tie to stop the thing from sagging.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by Locksmythe

Flex-seal... Thank you, I wasn't commited enough to the joke to look up what it was called.

I need to replace my DCT oil pan due to a little weeping I saw during last maintenance, so I might as well do filters too. I also have to replace the felt cover as it has nearly disintegrated at all the connecting points. Only 3 of the original rivets are still in place. Had to use a zip tie to stop the thing from sagging.

Well so far I have 112 miles on the new fluid. Engine temps seem to be lower but it was only 68 where I was today. The shifts all seem fine now but I haven't gone above S2 nor stomped on it yet. I wanted to ease into the new fluid for a couple hundred miles before going back to reckless mode.

In your case that failed heat shield may be the cause of the weeping you are seeing. The point of that shield is too shield heat created by the exhaust nearby. If heat has been beating up your trans from both sides because of the exhaust piping, this might have prematurely dried out your gaskets? Just an idea though.

[gfisher99]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

Well so far I have 112 miles on the new fluid. Engine temps seem to be lower but it was only 68 where I was today. The shifts all seem fine now but I haven't gone above S2 nor stomped on it yet. I wanted to ease into the new fluid for a couple hundred miles before going back to reckless mode.

In your case that failed heat shield may be the cause of the weeping you are seeing. The point of that shield is too shield heat created by the exhaust nearby. If heat has been beating up your trans from both sides because of the exhaust piping, this might have prematurely dried out your gaskets? Just an idea though.

My DCT has been missing that cover since I bought it last year. Is this the part?

51757898849

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51757898849/