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      06-12-2020, 01:59 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Drifter2090 View Post
Congrats on the new car!! Loved the old cars too (will be reading those build threads as well)

Keep us updated on it!
Thanks! I plan on keeping this one a long time.

Test pipes and Alpine tune arrived this week, I'll be doing a pre/post performance assessment using Dragy and documenting the install.

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Originally Posted by IND-Distribution View Post
Great car journey! Thanks for sharing. Interlagos is

Can't wait to see how the car progresses.
Thanks! The car actually came with some IND painted reflectors on it which was a bonus - that was going to be my first mod regardless of the car I purchased.
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      06-25-2020, 08:31 AM   #24
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When I purchased the car, I had some minor but annoying issues:

SOS - Inactive Warning
Bluetooth not working
USB and AUX plugs in center armrest had no power/signal

It was frustrating not being able to make phone calls through the car's speakers, and not being able to play music.

I'm not an electronics guy but through some research found that any interruption in the MOST fiber optic system will cause multiple failures. Similar to the Christmas light bulb effect, when one dies they all die. My symptoms weren't that bad, but I did purchase a fiber optic loop jumper that allowed me to bypass modules one by one until I stopped having problems.

Once I jumped the MULF2 module (located on the trunk floor on the right side, under the TCU module), the Bluetooth came back and I was able to pair my phone. The SOS warning also went away. Success!





That meant that there was definitely an issue with the MULF2 module, so I found a used one on ebay for $50 and installed it. The SOS warning was permanently gone, the Bluetooth capability was restored, and the biggest victory was the AUX coming back. It was so motivating seeing the AUX volume bar moving, rather than being stuck at zero like it had been for so long. The USB port in the armrest also had power again.

The only thing that was left was the 12V power port in front of the shifter - again, no power. This is a simple power port that doesn't use any modules for activation, just a simple fused circuit.

I dug open the glove box to find the fuse panel...



Consulted the diagram which was neatly folded in the cover



Found Fuse 08, which controls accessory power



And removed it for a closer look, compared to a known good 20A fuse.





My assumption is that at some point someone dropped a coin into that power port and shorted it, which blew the fuse.

Next up on the list is some performance testing, test pipe install/modifications, and some general maintenance/inspections.

Oh, and check out this E30 M3 I saw at my workplace...



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      06-25-2020, 10:41 AM   #25
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Glad you got it sorted!

And that charger fuse blows pretty often, easy fix though!
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      06-26-2020, 07:46 AM   #26
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Great work. Don't think I could have managed that fix as well as you did. That e30 is so bad ass.
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      06-26-2020, 10:58 AM   #27
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Great work. Don't think I could have managed that fix as well as you did. That e30 is so bad ass.
Don't sell yourself short. If you think you can or you think you can't, you're right either way. In this age of information on the internet, everyone can figure it out

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      06-26-2020, 12:11 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Drifter2090 View Post
Glad you got it sorted!

And that charger fuse blows pretty often, easy fix though!
Thanks!
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      06-26-2020, 02:30 PM   #29
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If you are not an "electronics guy" then I am frightened by what lies ahead? At this rate your next post will be "I'm not an engine guy, but I saw a video on rod bearings ... "

Fantastic job with the detailed explanation for each step and corresponding pictures. The Electronics sub-forum should really have this post on how to troubleshoot this issue ... well done!

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Originally Posted by nsogiba View Post
I'm not an electronics guy but through some research found that any interruption in the MOST fiber optic system will cause multiple failures. Similar to the Christmas light bulb effect, when one dies they all die. My symptoms weren't that bad, but I did purchase a fiber optic loop jumper that allowed me to bypass modules one by one until I stopped having problems.

Once I jumped the MULF2 module (located on the trunk floor on the right side, under the TCU module), the Bluetooth came back and I was able to pair my phone. The SOS warning also went away. Success!
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      06-26-2020, 03:15 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by br2wdc View Post
If you are not an "electronics guy" then I am frightened by what lies ahead? At this rate your next post will be "I'm not an engine guy, but I saw a video on rod bearings ... "

Fantastic job with the detailed explanation for each step and corresponding pictures. The Electronics sub-forum should really have this post on how to troubleshoot this issue ... well done!


It's all just nuts and bolts! Being an engineer helps. But, I'm always learning; the trick is to know enough to be confident, but not know enough to stay humble and curious.

Rod bearing service is not a big job compared to some of the stuff I've done in the past, but I just don't have the time anymore to tackle that kind of project, so I'll be having ACM in NJ doing the job.
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      06-26-2020, 09:13 PM   #31
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Well said and an excellent philosophy for life in general!

Rod bearing replacement for me is not really a question except when to get it done and what bearings I will get. I am just under 80k with a 2011 car that has been meticulous maintained by two adult owners showing oil changes every 5k miles.

I thought I could wait until the 90k mark and have a few Blackstone oil analysis under my belt, but some additional research threw me a curve ball.

My understanding is BMW made a change to the composition of the rod bearings beginning in 2010, and apparently the Blackstone analysis doesn't really show copper levels increasing which was a key analysis point showing wear.

Additionally BE bearing are on back order until September, so I am on a list to call once they get them in. Apparently there is another company (VAC?) that produces the bearings to the exact same specs for much less and are available now but not as "proven".

So I'll be interested in hearing your opinion on rod bearings replacement and the timing for your car which I believe is a 2009, so a Blackstone analysis would apply for you.

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Originally Posted by nsogiba View Post
But, I'm always learning; the trick is to know enough to be confident, but not know enough to stay humble and curious.

Rod bearing service is not a big job compared to some of the stuff I've done in the past, but I just don't have the time anymore to tackle that kind of project, so I'll be having ACM in NJ doing the job.
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      07-01-2020, 09:15 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by br2wdc View Post
Well said and an excellent philosophy for life in general!

Rod bearing replacement for me is not really a question except when to get it done and what bearings I will get. I am just under 80k with a 2011 car that has been meticulous maintained by two adult owners showing oil changes every 5k miles.

I thought I could wait until the 90k mark and have a few Blackstone oil analysis under my belt, but some additional research threw me a curve ball.

My understanding is BMW made a change to the composition of the rod bearings beginning in 2010, and apparently the Blackstone analysis doesn't really show copper levels increasing which was a key analysis point showing wear.

Additionally BE bearing are on back order until September, so I am on a list to call once they get them in. Apparently there is another company (VAC?) that produces the bearings to the exact same specs for much less and are available now but not as "proven".

So I'll be interested in hearing your opinion on rod bearings replacement and the timing for your car which I believe is a 2009, so a Blackstone analysis would apply for you.
Before I buy any "performance/enthusiast" car I always research the common failures so that I can budget their replacement and enjoy the peace of mind and reliability. In the case of the M3 it's the rod bearings and throttle actuators as we're all so familiar with. I planned on buying an M3 that either already had the bearings done, or would have them done myself. This way, nothing is a shock during ownership, and I can focus on enjoying the car, not obsessing over when something is going to break.

With that being said, I am not sure I want to buy into the Blackstone analysis. I don't doubt that it can provide valuable information as to what's in my oil, and for an engine setup I plan on keeping long term, it makes sense. I don't see the point in monitoring bearings that I'm changing out soon anyways.

If I got a "bad" Blackstone report, it would just confirm the need to get the bearings done and I'd be hesitant to drive the car fearing it would blow up.

If I had a "clean" Blackstone report, I'd always having a nagging thought that they might spin anyways, as there really is no rhyme or reason as to failure. Some spin early on, some last forever, regardless of lead/copper or tin/aluminum composition.

Ultimately a clean Blackstone report still doesn't give me the peace of mind that new bearings would, especially after seeing some of the worn bearings on this forum on cars with mileage between 60K-120K. Plenty of examples out there of clean oil reports, with the bearings looking awfully worn when removed.

I respect anyone's right to have their own opinion on whether the rod bearing issue exists or not, as well as whether a removed bearing that looks visually worn actually measures out of spec. I personally plan on having mine replaced with BE Bearings this August - was lucky enough to snag a set when they came in. Once the bearings are replaced, I may begin monitoring via Blackstone - since the new bearings will be kept long term, the analysis then has value to me as an owner.
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      07-01-2020, 09:36 AM   #33
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Back to our regularly schedule program - I started to dig into the M3 over the weekend.

Before I dug into the modifications, I was sidelined with a minor annoyance.





Luckily it was able to be patched, and the iDrive system let me know which tire specifically had the issue. Nice!

Next up, I dug into changing the plugs as I did not have a record of them being changed.

Start by removing the airbox cover.




Followed by the entire airbox assembly.


Pop off the coil cover...


Which exposes the driver's side coils.


I did not have any special tool for removing these, so I just grabbed under the head and pulled firmly straight up. No issue, they came right out.

The spark plug wells were clean and dry with no oil residue, indicating that the valve cover gaskets are still doing their job.


A few minutes later, all driver's side ignition stuff was out.


Well, it looks like someone has been in here...non-original plugs. I was relieved to at least see they were the correct model for the S65.


Replacements were ready to go courtesy of FCP Euro - I fully plan on taking advantage of their lifetime replacement policy.




The old plugs didn't look that old, but it's nice to start fresh and know what you have in there.


The process was similar on the other side. #8 was tricky, but doable. Certainly not difficult, I've done a lot worse plug changes. My C5 Corvette was a lot less comfortable, and the rear 3 cylinders on a Toyota V6 are tougher as well. I don't see what all the fuss is about.



To remove the passenger side coil cover, the coolant reservoir had to be unbolted and moved aside (no hose breaks necessary). Rinse and repeat coil removal.



If you can change your oil or replace the air filter, you can do this job.

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      07-01-2020, 10:08 AM   #34
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With the basic maintenance items done (plugs, oil, air filter) and the minor annoyances fixed (SOS, Bluetooth, AUX), I could focus on some fun modifications.

Remove aluminum belly pan and transmission undertray.



All fasteners that are removed are threaded back into their home to prevent being lost, and to make reassembly a breeze. Don't be that guy searching through the pile of bolts on the ground trying to figure out what goes where. Also a lot faster than bagging and labeling stuff.



Locate primary cats.



TARGET ACQUIRED





Carefully disconnect all oxygen sensor harnesses. BMW has a great system of clips and brackets that keep the wiring up away from the exhaust.



Remove the sensors from the exhaust while it's still attached to the car.



Time to party.







The cats are removed and laid next to the new VRSF test pipes. I also always lay the oxygen sensors in the orientation they are installed in the car, so that they aren't accidentally mixed up side to side.

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      07-01-2020, 10:50 AM   #35
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On my prior couple cars, I ran catless exhausts and eventually got sick of the smell. On the M3, I wanted to enjoy the easy power gains of test pipes, but wanted to have something reversible in case the smell got to me (and my wife/daughter). I started with some VRSF test pipes, since I knew I'd be cutting them up.



The test pipes were trimmed and fitted to 2.5" V-band connections for easy swapping later on in case I wanted to reinstall the stock cats.



Lots of mocking up and tacking later, followed by finish welding...no pics here, I just got in the zone, turned up the music and cranked it out.





No stacks of dimes here but my welds are strong and functional.



Buttoning up the underside with the undertrays, ran into a small snag with the oxygen sensors.





A quick trim with the death wheel made adequate clearance on the heatshield and it all went together nicely.

Finally, I wrapped up the install with a Stage 2 Tune from Alex at Alpine.

-93 Octane Stage 2 (primary cat delete)
-Cold start delete
-Servotronics (in M-Mode only)
-Top speed limiter removal

I may go with burbles later on, we'll see.





Just like when I flashed the MHD tune onto my 335i, all sorts of nonsense pops up on the screens.





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      07-01-2020, 11:44 AM   #36
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Fair points on Blackstone report and I concur no result from said report = "Peace of Mind", only rod bearing replacement does that.

For me, the Blackstone report is a data point and I'd like to see the results pre-rod bearing replacement purely for comparison purposes with post-rod bearing reports.

Good to hear you were able to procure BE bearings, with my decision down to wait for BE bearings to arrive off the slow boat from China, or get VAC or other bearings. I was surprised somewhat to see some folks are choosing OEM.

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Ultimately a clean Blackstone report still doesn't give me the peace of mind that new bearings would, especially after seeing some of the worn bearings on this forum on cars with mileage between 60K-120K. Plenty of examples out there of clean oil reports, with the bearings looking awfully worn when removed.

I respect anyone's right to have their own opinion on whether the rod bearing issue exists or not, as well as whether a removed bearing that looks visually worn actually measures out of spec. I personally plan on having mine replaced with BE Bearings this August - was lucky enough to snag a set when they came in. Once the bearings are replaced, I may begin monitoring via Blackstone - since the new bearings will be kept long term, the analysis then has value to me as an owner.
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      07-01-2020, 01:45 PM   #37
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Awesome updates...thoroughly enjoyed the read...PS...DEATH TO BURBLE TUNES
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      08-04-2020, 08:40 AM   #38
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It has been an incredibly busy month. We welcomed our first child into the world, she’s a healthy baby girl that is taking up most of my time.

I have gotten a couple chances to get out and put some miles on the M3 to blow off steam and relax.







Quick throwback to 2 years ago this month when I had my '09 Police Interceptor, and found a $350 set of C5 Corvette specific BBS LM wheels. They looked great but ultimately needed a refinish and I flipped them for a quick profit. I really wish I had kept the Vic...





Anyhow - I am a firm believer in using fun cars to their full extent, so every fun car I buy usually gets a trailer hitch in order to haul my bike rack and tow a small trailer for track days, Home Depot runs, whatever. My Corvette towed great, with the towing package I installed (more power, stronger brakes, oil cooler, LOL).

Not only does it prevent me from having to use my wife's Rav4, but I love the looks I get and pissing off purists: "You're not supposed to tow with that car!!!!!!"

LOL, hold my beer. These cars are more than adequate for small loads.











Really I want to just get my bike back on there so I can start riding again, with the gyms still being closed.





Back to the M3. Up on the lift, remove the axleback. Man, I can't get over how squeaky clean this thing is for a NE car...



Very tempting not to modify this exhaust while it’s out, but cooler heads must prevail.



The plan is to install a hidden hitch setup that has a vertical receiver behind the bumper cover. When I want to use the hitch I will install a 90 degree adapter, like this concept.



The problem is that nobody makes a hitch like this for the M3, so I bought a generic E9X hitch knowing it would have to be modified, and immediately proceeded to cut it up to clear the exhaust tips and bumper mounts.



So after a few nights of cutting and tacking, here’s where I’m at right now – one vertical receiver hitch for an E92 M3.







I should have everything mocked up later this week and drop it off at my welder’s for final welding as my little 110V MIG isn’t up to the task of burning in the thick steel.
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      08-06-2020, 03:32 PM   #39
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Here is the system fully mocked up and just tacked together. It needs final welding and a coat of paint.







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      08-07-2020, 09:28 AM   #40
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great write up. thanks for taking the time to post your updates. it has been a pleasure reading your thread
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      08-07-2020, 10:58 AM   #41
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Great job on the hitch! and I definitely think you should mod that muffler while its out haha
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      08-10-2020, 11:07 AM   #42
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great write up. thanks for taking the time to post your updates. it has been a pleasure reading your thread
Thanks! There is more to come.

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Originally Posted by Drifter2090 View Post
Great job on the hitch! and I definitely think you should mod that muffler while its out haha
Sure is tempting...however, since I want to use this car to carry my newborn daughter, I don't want to really modify it to make it any louder...yet.

If only there was a way to create a loud exhaust on demand.



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      08-31-2020, 07:32 AM   #43
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As I mentioned in my original posts I was pretty active in the LS community over the last 10 years. The Vette I sold didn’t fit my lifestyle anymore but I always loved the bang for the buck aspect of the performance. Most fun of all was my turbo truck, which was a basic 4.8 combo with a turbo and a reliable as a rock 4L80E.

Browsing Marketplace over a cup of coffee, I saw a complete LQ4/4L80E for a decent price about 15 minutes away. Since the hitch on the M3 was done, I figured it was the perfect opportunity to test it out.















Back home in the garage, I usually put some straps around the lift arms and use the lift to pick everything up and attach to engine stand.





The M3 pulled the trailer great, I estimate it was about 1000 lbs between the engine, trans, and the trailer itself.



Don't worry, I am not swapping the M3, been there done that. Thinking I might do an old cop car with a big turbo, fun street car that wastes tires at highway speeds.
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      08-31-2020, 08:55 AM   #44
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I have to say, one of the best threads in terms of all the cool stuff you did, totally pushed the boundaries (installing a trailer hitch on an E92 M3) and just how adept you are at doing any kind of mods.

I say forget the aerospace thing, you should have your own channel on some car blog, like Motor Trend or Car & Driver. Really fun to read and then see the stuff you did.

And by-the-by - if you want purists to really freak out, take the M3 to a cars & coffee and have the trailer hauling an engine. Ideally an S65, just so's you can tell people you always want to be prepared.

Keep updating - I think we all enjoy the posts!

Cheers,
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